Erny

Doesn't sound like the dog is out of the woods yet. If legal ownership is proven, I think it can be insisted that this dog be pts. As sad as that is in this instance, I understand how it can be good in other instances. What a cretin. It really makes me wonder what is going on inside that person's mind and if she knew that rescue want the dog returned, why she would refuse that option. ETA: Shame a 'cooling off period' can't be argued to work in rescue's favour.

But are they in drive "peak" ?

Don't know why I posted, because I don't think I can get there anyway . So just ignore mine, Troy :D. I think I had one of those "can't help myself' moments again.

Hey Here since 2004 2005 (whoops! Could have sworn it was 2004 .... :D). Actually came in because someone I know posted and I was interested in what was said. Ended up registering so I could respond, because I just couldn't help myself ;)

I'd bath with Calendula. But then, I am sure I'm sounding like a broken record. It is anti-inflamatory and anti-bacterial but natural and without soap, so it helps for the skin to find its own natural balance, but helps to ease the discomfort and avoid secondary skin infection. ETA: Do a smaller area first, to make sure.

Would swollen lymph glands get "as big as an orange" ? Genuine question because I don't know.

I think it is a good idea that you are each taking a separate/different week off work to look after pup (and work on toilet training etc) initially. When they first come home they are often somewhat at a loss for everything that has changed, including being away from the litter mates they are used to. But please consider that during that total of two weeks period you need to train your pup that it is ok to be alone. So you'd start out (eg) bonding; getting pup comfortable with his/her surroundings; building up to leaving him (in a place that is not only safe/secure, but where pup feels safe/secure) for short periods and extending upwards in duration. Generally speaking, once pup is ok with being left for 4 hours, he/she will probably be able to cope for a day. Some pups might be confident and good with being on their own from the get go, but some others become very anxious at all of a sudden being left alone once owners return to their usual work-day routines, so I think it is safer to build independence up incrementally, planning it out so that by the time you both have to return to work, it won't be a traumatic experience for pup. I don't think you should get two pups at the same time either. Not only because they are double the work/effort (and as new dog owners, you'll be finding your way and learning as you go, so one would be enough for you to concentrate on) but also because later on, when they mature, it is possible they won't be the 'best buddies' you might have hoped that they'd be and with no experience under your belt to rely on, you'll find this less pleasant to deal with.

:D .... don't be embarressed. I found myself in the same situation (exhaustion) one night, with narry a thing in the pantry or fridge that I could do anything (easy) with. So I pulled down one of Kal's (avatar girl - BHCSocks) vegie patties that I'd stored for her in the freezer, and fried that up. Wasn't too bad, actually, and was the biggest spinach hit I'd ever had !!! Must admit, I remember feeling more energised the next morning.

IMO, we have a tendency to wash our dogs too often or at least, using shampoo too often. Instead of being concerned about how often I wash my dog, I tend to focus on how often I don't. The last bath my dog had was a year ago.

I know the one's you mean and yes, the ones I looked up have those brown baubly things. Thanks Schnauzer for pointing them out. I will keep my eyes peeled for them, just in case there are some that are around, but where we normally go for runs/walks there aren't any to my knowledge. His "bottie" (LOL) seems to be completely fine *touch wood*. Biggest (but not only) issue at the moment are these 'boil' things next to his toes/in between his paw pads. I've started bathing 2 x daily with Calendula and I think the lumps have reduced in size. Thanks for asking Kirislin. I feel better that his bottom has cleared up. *touch wood*

Yes - I agree. Sometimes it never rains but it pours and whilst we know we'll get through the 'high finance' periods, one can't help but hope that there won't be those 'unexpecteds' during that time. If that comes up though, unless the credit card is already maxed out, that's where it comes in handy, knowing it will get you through and you can pay it back within a certain time frame. It's more ideal if this 'back stop' can be avoided of course, because after all, we pay the penalties (interest) for it. Hope everything stays on an even keel for you .

Hehehe .... that's part of Mandela's staple diet - although ours 'on special' here is in the vicinity of $16 per kg. I love it when he has a period of being 'into' minced chicken frames. $2 for 2kgs - that's easy street!!

PoppyDog .... unfortunately it is one of those things you need to budget for a 'rainy day' for. I hope it doesn't eventuate for your dogs needing it, but $500 is nothing when it comes to Vet bills (IMO). So maybe think about putting a couple of dollars a day to one side (half the cost of a cappuccino) and leave it in a special account where you can forget about it (and not touch it). You'll remember it if/when the time comes that you might need it. Better to start being part way prepared now, rather than waiting for the possible D-day. I promise, you'll find it far less stressful to deal with (having our dogs ill/injured is bad enough) if you at least having something put aside. Vet bills, and preparedness for them is part and parcel of what you need to be able to manage when it comes to dog ownership.

With PetPlan, you pay the Vet then lodge a claim. I think it is the same or similar with most others. I believe there is the option of the claim going in and the Vet being paid from that, but I would expect that would have to be under exceptional circumstances and by special agreement with the Vet. I would not like to be in a job where I rely on the income for my bread and butter, but where to get the money I've earnt I have to go through the hoops of the claim being made and then wait (hope) that it will come through without it being contested. I think I would likely go broke in the meantime. So I wouldn't expect a Vet to agree to this method too easily.

I wonder if these people got their words mixed up and that the issue is "haematoma" rather than "hernia". But then, if it is haematoma, what the heck has been going on for the dog to have developed so many of them? Injection/IV drip sites from the op? Good thing, I think, that the dog is coming back to you. Trisven, albeit that a failed 'forever home' is always a disappointment. Something doesn't add up right.

It took a day or so for response to me (by email) so I'd suggest they've been a bit busy with the flood of contact.

LOL ..... with 100x the reward :D . OT : Gotta say, Megan .... you put in a good deal of effort, which would be why you are achieving so much

"Quick Quick" I didn't realise until I had already trained my avatar girl (bless her cotton socks) to this, that it is also what they use for Guide Dogs. Seems to be a natural thing to say .... especially when the day is frigid cold .

That's a bit rough, isn't it? Most places/orgs that I know of (eg. Australian Quarter Horse Association) have you pay a fee to be able to lodge the complaint, and if it is upheld, you get your money back. I thought that was the 'norm'. After all, wouldn't an org WANT to know if a member is breaking rule/s etc.? Why should those who are bringing those things to its attention have to be penalised for providing this service on their behalf?

I would abandon the idea of saying or teaching "heel" at the moment. Just getting your pup to walk confidently is what you want. If your dog is afraid, he's not in the right frame of mind to also be learning what "heel" means, and the command "heel" would become meaningless to him later on. Praise when he is confident. THAT's what you want to build on. There's likely to be more to it other than just not picking him up;reinforcing confident behaviour; and not reinforcing nervous behaviour. Your trainer/behaviourist would/should have worked through those other aspects with you though.

But has he shown you techniques for YOU to use and have you found them helping? Not just towards the trainer/behaviourist but also when you are out and about? What I mean is that you/we already know your pup is showing fear behaviour to other people and dogs. That's why you are seeking help. The tuition/advice you receive from a trainer/behaviourist should be about what YOU (whom your pup is not afraid of) needs to do in the presence of the stimuli that causes your pup anxiety/unease. I'm not sure if I'm making my point clear with the way I've worded the above (forgive me), but we could potentially expect your pup to be shy/fearful of anyone (including a trainer/behaviourist). When I work with owners and their fearful dogs, I demonstrate/explain/describe what the owner needs to do, and I use myself as the "unfamiliar person" for the owner to use the technique/s I suggest, so the owner can see how it works/helps. Or are you saying this is what you've done but it is not making any difference towards the trainer/behaviourist? If that's the case, then my next question would be has it made a difference to anyone, trainer/behaviourist aside? Good for you for seeking help . Certainly NOW is the time to work on this problem, for it to have the greatest potential for improvement.

Yes it is. It is also useful as an activity during which each dog establishes/tests the ranking of another - there is a lot of communication given (and taken) during play behaviour, IMO. And of course I expect that it is also just plain fun .

$30

LOL .... that's ok - I always have questions, even after I might have posed the answers!! But with reference to the above, do you think that just because two dogs meet and greet that a "pack" relationship has been formed? I don't. Generally speaking, acceptance as a member of the pack is a pack reward. Social activities would comprise a part of that. So no, not "just" praise; petting.

But then, dogs who are not of the same family play with other dogs - so where's the "pack" drive in that? Sure, during play they would be establishing a relationship and there may be some "pack" element that derives from that but "play" IMO doesn't necessarily go to "pack". To me, "pack" behaviour relates more to the interactions between dogs (and people) who have an established relationship and would include things such as rallying around the owner; leader-follower behaviour. Certainly, social interactions such as play within the "pack" structure would/could occur, but the "play" drive isn't "pack drive". Kal, my avatar girl (bless her cotton socks) was very strong on "pack drive", very little "play drive" and next to no "prey drive". I used her pack drive to train with for the most part. I wouldn't call "play" just a "milder form of prey drive" .... no, I think it is different. But I do not think of it as a completely separate drive.