Erny

Also ponder on how mentally stimulated and satisfied she might be. Boredom can lead to these sorts of issues as well. If she does begin to lick the paw again and just in case there is some irritation in the skin, try dipping her paw in a 'tea' made from Calendula (dried marigold flowers). You can purchase this from a Health Food Shop - about $8. A tablespoon of the Calendula in the toe of a stocking and let it steep as you would a tea bag. When the tea has cooled, just dip her foot in it. Dab her foot (and in between her toes) dry with a clean towel. It won't do any harm and it might prove to ease any irritation that she does feel there. This, on top of any increase in exercise and other things that will busy her mind up, should you think this has room for improvement. Be careful about paying too much attention to her foot -try to keep it low key - especially if this is an OCD. I do presume your Vet checked for any signs of foreign body? Grass seeds, for example, can enter the body in one spot, migrate, and work their way to other spots. So a 'point of entry' may not be evident.

I've not ever used the clicker (nor suggested it be used) for toilet training and doubt that I'd ever do so when pup is mid-stream. Perhaps others have tried it and found it to be successful, but IMO the sound of the clicker could prove to distract the pup from the 'job at hand'. Just a quiet, non-distracting, just audible (to the pup) toileting word that you're training to pair to the action (eg. "quick quick") is about all I'd suggest be used when pup is in the midst of a wee. More than that and you run the very real chance of pup forgetting about weeing and not emptying the tank, so to speak. Save the "good puppy!!" and treat for once the pup has finished toileting.

Go HERE . Four Paws K9 Training. (DOL Name = Kelpie-i.) They have a Centre in Keilor but are also about to start up in North Melbourne. The former would be about 30 minutes from you. The latter only about 15 minutes. They do one-on-one's out your way as well, if that's what you need. Ask for Trish

Can you not take the Elizabethan Collar off her when you are with her to supervise the runs and therefore to stop her from starting up on her paw again? Also, work on your "leave it" command. Charge it just as you would 'charge' a clicker. IE "Leave it" (treat) "Leave it" (treat) ..... repeat several times over. Then apply it whilst on lead, attract her attention and 'treat'. Important that you do this for anything you want her to leave - NOT JUST her paw. You might then be able to use this to help her out of the habit she has (assuming it is only habit that is making her chew her paw). You'll have to take the Elizabethan Collar off at some time so this 'command' might prove useful, and in more ways than one.

We all advocate vaccination Mokhahouse. But it is the continuous vaccinations that is the problem - we're over-doing it and actually taxing our dogs' immune systems with the bombardment of all the drugs we give, inject and apply. Everyone, think about it : Do you vaccinate your children year in year out, or even every three years? How many different forms of drugs is your dog subjected to, and how often, how much? For the last question, take into account things such as : Heartworm General worming Vaccination Chemically based shampoos Spot-ons Flea/Tick Collars Ear cleaners Not to mention preservatives and other such things that are included and/or affect some of the foods we might feed them. Count up how many applications of each of the above things in the list that you would apply/give each month and then multiply it by 12. Then multiply that figure by 15 or whatever other age you believe a healthy dog should live to. I wonder what it would look like if we collected every one of those things and put them in a HUGE container representing that total 'life-time' amount. I'm sure many would be quite shocked at the chemical invasion we force on our dogs. And I'm equally certain that many would be quite shocked when we took away those of which were only absolutely necessary, as I'm certain in many cases the container would still be considerably well stocked. Then there's the frequent and sometimes all too ready administration of anti-biotics; General Anaesthesia; Cortisone (injections/ointments); anti-inflammatories such as Rimmedel; and so on and so forth. Sure - some of these are necessary, but not always and not for every dog. Yet we are so blindsided into believing that all of this stuff is always for the dog's own good, without much consideration as to how we are beating their immune systems silly. And just because dogs are not showing the signs of allergic reactions, doesn't mean the dog's system is thriving under the influence of all that drug load. Drugs are good if they are used judiciously and with forethought and only when necessary and absolutely wise. IMO

I found the best and easiest way to crate train a pup was by tiring him out mentally. Take him out somewhere - for example to a street cafe. Wrap him in a blanket to keep him warm if the weather is cool and just hold him. Let him listen to the sound of the traffic; see people walking past - these sights and sounds are things he's going to need to be used to anyway, so it serves as an excellent socialisation/habituation exercise - just don't put him in a position where he feels overwhelmed (which is why I suggest to hold him right from the start) until he's used to it. If your pup is anything like mine, he'll clonk out from all the mental stimulation and chances are will be quite happy to snuggle into a warm, comfy crate pretty quickly. Go with the other ideas of something nice to chew on which perhaps he can have after he has awoken (although a quick toilet outing will be the order of the day first, once he awakes). You can have the crate near you if this helps to begin with just to help him get used to being in the crate, but be conscious about gradually working so that he is comfortable about being ok when you're not around as well - they need to learn to become confident about being by themselves. Just do it gradually over the next few weeks and for short periods, working so that you return before he becomes traumatised by your absence and providing him with things that might serve as a distraction. Come night time my boy was ready to sleep (again) and I had his crate in my room on the floor next to my bed - covered by a blanket to make it cosier. I had no problems with this at all overnight and found he was really glad to snuggle down into it for his sleep.

I agree. This doesnt sounds like a true vaccination reaction to me. Vaccines are straight out of the fridge so are cold under the dogs skin. Its not uncommon for them to scratch at the site for a while after the vaccine. Not forgetting that he'd received an antihistamine beforehand to reduce any reaction due to the one he'd had the year before. Even the AVA are cautioning against yearly vaccinations even in the absence of any reaction. Yet many Vets seem to be swimming against the tide on that recommendation.

What does her diet comprise of? How old is she? Is she under weight or over weight? I'd be looking down that track (ie why has she become more itchy?) rather than relying on corticosteriod sprays to heal what could potentially be a symptom of something else underlying the problem.

My boy had his puppy shots and I've had him titre tested, results revealing his body has the anti-bodies to the diseases. I will periodically have him titre tested if I am concerned about anything but I don't plan to have him vaccinated again for the rest of his life. The Canine Cough component of the vaccine (if your dog had this) only lasts for about 6 months or so, I believe. But I didn't bother with that. I only worried about the C3. Especially because your boy's had a reaction to the vaccine I'd follow up with the titre test to make sure he has the immunity he needs. ETA: Oops .... sorry - I see you are going to do that.

I think I'm just used to it now. But I used to feel self-conscious about it. Then found that some of the regular passer-by'ers who were some of the ones who watched and gave funny looks were some of the same ones who further down the track would say things in passing like "wish my dog was as well behaved as yours". I think much of the time, people aren't so much laughing at you or thinking you are silly as they are just being curious to what you are doing and/or admiring what you are doing. Tune out to them Seita, and keep up the good work. You do become immune to acting like a clown in public. Your dog isn't judging you for it and that's the main thing .

If you are in Victoria, I'd highly recommend you arrange a consult with Dr. Bruce Syme in Castlemaine. I don't know why I keep recommending him ..... it will get to the point where he'll be too busy to fit my boy in to his schedule !! LOL But truly - I travel 2 hours each way to see him when I have something that requires anything other than the standard check. I would describe him as a 'minimalist' in his attitude to surgery and medications, which means that if he ever told me surgery or drugs were necessary for my boy, I'd believe they were.

Your dog's body is trying to tell you something. I wouldn't even consider the 3 yearly vaccination.

Same view here. And as others have suggested - get a Vet Certificate which confirms that vaccinations do not agree with your dog. A titre test will assist in confirming that your dog has developed anti-bodies to the diseases for which he was vaccinated. This may serve to satisfy your Obedience Club that he has cover and also give you the confidence you need that your dog has achieved immunity.

We have quite a number of cats in our street too, yet I have not had a flea problem with either my current boy or my previous girl. Do the cats in your neighbourhood come over and hang around your dogs or linger in your yard?

I guess your answer would depend on how bad the wound was in the first place. I'm sorry that I can't be any more definite than that. Does it appear to be healing/improving? I am presuming there is a wound (from the licking or otherwise) because you've mentioned 'healing'. But I wonder why she is so focussed on licking her foot. When does she do it? Could it be the result of anxiety? Or that she is somehow reinforced (eg. by your attention) for doing it? What's her skin like generally? IE Does she have itchy skin elsewhere on her body? Is it only one paw that she will chew/lick at?

Yes - one thing I learnt from somewhere or other .... count the letters in the name of the injured part and that will give you an idea of how long it requires to heal. For example : Bone = 4 weeks Muscle = 6 weeks And the longest to heal is Ligament = 8 weeks It's just a 'rule of thumb' measure of course, but it is something that has helped me to remember.

My previous girl used to try to back away and out when I applied her spot on. I think it is an irritant to them. I wish I'd 'listened' to her. Sorry, girl. I don't use spot-ons on my current boy at all. I guess that's a matter of learning, and I wish I knew back then for my avatar girl what I know now. I don't know what State you live in and hence I don't know what climate you have, but IMO if there isn't a flea problem, don't de-flea. If there isn't a mite problem, don't de-mite. And so on and so forth. And if you do heartworm tablets/chews, remember that Revolution has heartworm preventative in it as well (from memory, it does, anyway), so avoid the double-dosing.

Is it into a sedan car? My boy got used to me helping him in to the car as a youngster and so, even at his adult size, tended to wait for that 'lift'. I moved him past that point by lifting one hind leg and placing it on the 'step'. He now 'climbs' into the car under his own steam this way (and was pretty puffed up and proud when he realised he could do it by himself ). My previous girl I admit was somewhat more agile and used to spring from a standing position into the car. Different strokes for different folks I guess. I'm happy enough for him not to take leaps into the car. He's such a 'crash and bash' type dog that he'd probably do it with too much clumbsy enthusiasm anyway. It's one of the few things he does calmly. But to make sure, I would suggest you have your dog checked over to ensure that this behaviour is not the result of discomfort rather than just a learnt behaviour.

Don't go too much on weight. Males are generally bigger than females, and then you have different lines with different skeletal structure etc. etc. You are best to go by how the dog looks. You want some rib cover (ie ribs shouldn't be poking out) but you should be able to run your hand along them and not have to press hard to feel the ribs. Being able to see the last one or two rib bones is ok. There should be a bit of a waste which you look for by looking down upon your dog when she is standing. A good healthy coat also adds to the picture. My current boy who is 16 months old is, I would guess, somewhere between 37-39kgs. He's not fully physically matured yet, so he has some filling out/bulking up to do, so there's every likelihood he will become heavier, weight speaking. Yet my previous Ridgeback girl's ideal weight as a fully matured adult was 31-33kg. If she was anywhere near my boy's weight she would have been considerably over weight and appearance would have been some where between plump and fat. As it is, with my boy, you would class him as 'lean', to see him. Post a photo here, if you're still not sure. Not as good as any of us actually seeing your girl as photo's can be deceiving (light refraction etc. influences the appearance in photo's) but we might be able to shed our opinions as a bit of a help. If you do take photo's, taken them side on with as little angle as possible and also from above, with your youngster in a standing position. But overall, if your Vet is happy, then there's a reasonable guide. Save that I've noticed numerous Vets who consider 'good weight' whereas for the same dogs I would suggest 'too heavy'. Provided the dog is healthy, active and happy and not skeletal, then I'd say you're doing ok. Optimum weight is the best, but if you can't get that then to err on the side of lean rather than fat is the better of the two IMO.

I'm not a Vet, but in relation to the above I have to disagree. Of course, it depends on what sort of damage has occurred to the ligament/s. But ligaments are able to repair (they form scar tissue) depending on how they have been damaged.

Hey Staranais .... you might be able to help with this question? I spoke to the Malinois owner tonight. She hasn't spoken with her Vet yet. I think she was as disappointed as I was that the thyroid results didn't provide the answer to her problem and she's 'sitting' on things, just digesting them and allowing them to process at the moment. Money is a bit thin (as it often is for many of us) and she's trying to chose carefully (as much as anyone could, given it's a bit of "crystal ball" status) as to her next step. The question is : How would you go about determining epilepsy? Is it only by the visual, or are there other tests that can be done?

Ummmmmmmmmm ..... you have a point.

In triplicate please ..... if only. <sigh> ETA: Wonder if he reads DOL Hi Dr. Bruce

Oops! I get the message. Keep sipping on your coffee, Jeff .... I'm emptying my 'inbox' now. Grief, you are subtle (not) !!

gaaaaawd ..... I'd LOOOVE it if he had a 'double'. His 'original' is 'taken'.