Erny

My boy had his second vacc at about 13 weeks. At around the time for an annual booster I found out via a discussion with Dr Jean Dodds that if his second vacc had been at 16 weeks, no more vaccinations would be advocated. But seeing as this was not the case, the suggestion was that I went for the 12 month booster. As it turned out, my boy was having problems (with digestion; thyroid; and whatever) and so I titred instead of going for the suggested booster. Titre test results (even one year after his second & last puppy vacc) showed the presence of sufficient level antibodies, confirming sero-conversion so I didn't proceed with the booster shot. I don't vaccinate for Canine Cough. He's contracted it on two different occasions - both times has been very very mild and recovered well with a bit of tlc and Manuka Honey. This is not "advice" per se .... but more to give you some reassurance that all things might be ok. If it were me, I'd do a titre now and see what it reveals.

+1 ETA: The OP has posted one post only (grand total). Why people are leaping to judge on that basis is not something I comprehend.

That was excellent video footage and you and Em are doing very well. Talk about speed!! I think you're earlier experiences of retrieve trialling/training were with LL? If I'm right, then seems to me LL has set you very much in the right direction and credit to you for taking everything on board and putting excellence in training with Em :). Well done, TSD. :)

I hope it is only as basic as a small knick or cut. Watch for redness, inflammation and/or infection - perhaps from a grass seed having entered the skin.

Be careful. If your pup 'eats' the collars of your other dog, it is possible that during play, his mouth can become caught in the collar itself. This can lead to great catastrophe and tragedy. My preference is for no collars especially in a multi-dog household, although I acknowledge there is an up and down side to either view. It is a matter of making the judgement call on what is the most likely : that the dog/s will escape and need their tag ID's on, or that one or other of the dogs are risking injury/fatality by their mouths being caught in their collars. Not wanting to sound like the drama queen, but food for thought. I'd also worry about your pup's teeth becoming caught in the chain.

I'm curious about this - why wouldn't you want it identified that your dog is microchipped? Genuine question - I'm going to get a couple of these tags for Mandela as well and wondering if there was a reason why anyone/stranger should not be made aware that the dog is chipped But lovely tags - I really like them.

Saw a doco on epi-genetics the other day/week. Interesting. Not so much that I didn't know of it, but confess that understanding the scientific change to the genetic description has made a difference to my understanding. Mind you, not even sure that I'm using the right words here, as it's not as though the gene (to whatever) is actually/physically changed during epi-genetic influence, but more that some signals on the gene are either turned on or turned off (but remain available to be turned off or on throughout life). Was really interesting. Anyone else see it? It basically backed up the importance of "socialisation/habituation/learning/good experiences" but it was an insightful explanation of how these things affect/effect animals.

Interesting piece of snippet, Sandgrubber. Ta for posting :). I like to know bits and pieces like this.

Yeah - I get that. It's such simple logic but something I hadn't much thought about. Thanks :)

Now THERE's a great tip - thank you Showdog. Something I haven't thought about before, but something, once you have it pointed out, is really quite obvious and logical. Cheers! Erny ETA: A dip of the feet in Calendula Tea would probably work as well, and less (potentially) drying?

Thanks Westiemum - but just for clarification sake in relation to both our posts (I re-read mine and not so sure I wrote particularly well), normal parasite worming is generally 3-monthly (not monthly). I haven't wormed my boy since he was a baby puppy, yet his faecal exam for the presence of worms has come in as negative even though he is now 3 years old. I agree with posts that suggest the environment and your dogs' activities should dictate how often (or not) you might need to worm your dogs.

Irresponsible owners Hope your friend is ok, Pawprints. Pro-K9's Classes are in that area, so shall keep an eye-out, although unlikely that we'll see them.

Black Hawke is one of the food types I supply to my dog. Mandela has digestive issues and no food I have found so far is something that he can eat without having a reaction to - whether that be over a short term or long term and whether that be whole raw foods or commercially prepared foods. Mandela doesn't eat it all the time (not the fault of BH) but of the kibble brands, BH is the one he tends to favour.

I was thinking along the lines of MonElite too. On a different platform, but I was thinking about my boy when he is mucking about with his soft toy having fun by himself - here's an example picture : This is in different context to what is being discussed in this thread, but I can't help but agree with MonElite that shaking the prey item can't mean the dog is weak on nerve. Perhaps it means the dog doesn't have "Civilian Drive" but then that could be a reflection of the dog's training too. But I don't think it should automatically go to meaning "weak on nerve". Unless I have misunderstood the direction of your post, Yesmaam? I am open to being corrected. Although I freely admit that my boy is a wuss, especially if you nearly step on his foot :rolleyes: lol. ETA: No wombat was harmed in the making of this photo.

Sometimes it's a case of the dog looking like he is well, happy etc. even on not the best food/diet combo possible. Sometimes it is later on that problems are revealed. So, all things being equal, I'd like to know that what I'm putting into my dog is the best quality food possible. Sure - dogs with special needs may or may not do well on one recommended food -vs- another. But unless there was some form of advertising in places such as the DOL forum, we might not get to know about them. Think about it - perhaps we'd only know about PAL and Hills Science, as TV and Vet Clinics are often the main places that recommend and push food brands. I enjoy talking to "the horse's mouth". It's great to hear the experiences of other people, but to question things about a product to the people who have created it is a big advantage too. IMO.

I agree. I know that there are rules to follow and it seems these guys are following them, but stifle DOL too much and you'll find people with helpful/interesting news and tips dropping away. I've been to two or three of the VAN seminars. Picked up some good tips and great to have Dr Bruce right there to ask any questions about ..... anything :D.

Oh - and I meant to add that I'm not so sure it's a great thing to change walking route habits all the time, especially at this early stage. Like you do when you intro a blind dog to the home, you teach them where things are so they can create a 'mind map'. I'd be thinking that this would be a good thing with the outside world as well, to a degree. At least at the beginning until that mind map is set and variation to that can then perhaps be recognised by her. I won't profess to having trained a blind dog from the beginning and through, only to giving a tip here and helping out spasmodically, so perhaps I'm not completely correct here - just putting my mind to it and thinking this would be what she needs the most at this stage (ie navigational skill developed via route consistency).

It is my opinion that we do worm our dogs more frequently than is required. I'd hate for this to be taken as a signal for everyone to completely slacken off away from worming, but I think it is worth consideration to worming our dogs a bit more judiciously than we currently do. I periodically have my boy's faeces tested for worm burden. He's now 3yo and completed the puppy worming regime when he was a youngster. So far, the few tests I've had completed in between have proven negative for the presence of parasites/worms. And his diet does include raw meat - as much as I try for human grade, some meats are labelled "pet" only. This is separate to heartworming though and I do agree that if you live in a climate that is conducive to the development of heartworm through to infestation stage, heartworm is unfortunately a necessity. From what I have read I'd avoid the yearly and run with the monthly. Again - just me. Just my opinion.

You may like to think about teaching your dog a cue to tell her to slow down. Once taught, I could imagine where this could and would be used in many instances, as it would be a way of telling her "hang on, steady up .... something's going to change". I think you and her would also benefit from being taught a command/word to tell her to go forward. This might help you in those times you mention where she just stops dead because she is startled. If she has learnt a word from you that tells her it's ok to go forward and that this is what you want her to do, she will have something akin to guidance from you. I've come across an article (can't remember where) that offers the suggestion of using PVC pipe to assist with walking on a lead. Simply thread your leash through it. In this way you can use the PVC pipe to guide your blind girl by the use of touch. Obviously you need the PVC pipe to be narrow enough to hold. Using this "stiff leash" you could also teach her words to suggest which way to turn - ie left, right, etc., although if she is a big dog you might not need the stiff leash to help you in this way as much as you might if she is small.

Good luck, Poodlecrazy. I hope she continues to show some improvement and regains some strength. Know that you're not alone and that people will be sending you good wishes with hopes of good reports on her progress. There are so many people on this forum who understand what you are going through.

You reckon? Perhaps you're right, but I find with dogs - especially if they are nervous/scared - it is harder for them to be ok with being on their backs for you, up on a hard xray table, in an unfamiliar and scarey environment. But regardless, I hope you manage to work out a way where you can avoid the drugs. I agree with Dancinbcs suggestion. Drugs might work faster but when other condition/s are taken into account, could prove worse. I'd be inclined to try the conservative way first. Just my opinion though.

And they will certainly be, unless people - and that means YOU and YOU and YOU ..... don't pull up and do something about it.

Extract from the Parliamentary letter contained in the Link posted by Perse : Time to start campaigning, you lot. I'd certainly start by asking a straight out question and letting them know that as a citizen of Queensland you expect a straight, precise and accurate answer. The question I'd ask would be along the line of "What evidence does Annastacia Palaszczuk MP have to even suggest that the use of a PPCollar (ie Pinch/prong collar) has caused harm?" I'd also ask what actual EXPERIENCE do those who they would seek to obtain advice and opinion from have in relation to dog behaviour and training and, in particular, to the use of the PPCollar. Obviously, if they don't have any, then my next question would be "Then how can they consider banning it as to do so would be in clear breach of Natural Justice and Procedural Fairness". To suggest a broad spectrum ban is in my opinion stupid and ludicrous and it depleats the possibility of use of a tool that can correlate to being more humane and fair than the other of the tools that are left being permitted for use. In addition to that, they should refer to the American Humane Association's Guide to Humane Dog Training. This book was used as a reference by the "nay-sayers" against the PPCollar here in Victoria. Turns out though that the book prescribes the Pinch/prong collar as an alternative humane training restraint. So - I'd be asking the Government to cough up with sound reasoning and not having decision-makers pass laws based on bias'd and non-evidenced opinions.

If your dog is used to handling and has been taught to be still when you want him to be, it should be possible to have an xray taken without the use of sedation. My avatar girl (bhcs) needed a heart xray but because she'd had (for other reasons) numerous anaesthetia procedures in the not so distant past to that and because of her age, I didn't want to put her through another. The specialist at the time had seen myself and my girl enough to understand that I was confident about what I could get her to do and so he agreed to us not using sedation of any kind. The Xray Vet Team was another matter though, and I had a bit of a struggle to convince them. I needed to stay with my dog of course (poor girl - hated being at the Vets) but once up on the table she allowed me to manipulate her body into position and with me (gowned in the lead apron gear) at her front end stretching her front legs forward and a Vet at the other stretching her back legs back I gave the word "hold" and she stayed perfectly still. The attending Vet/Specialist commented on what a great Xray picture it turned out to be. So yes - it can be done, but depends on the dog. As an aside, the above is another very good reason why I suggest people teach their dogs using lure method but also follow up using the Guide Show Place approach. This method lends itself to the dog learning to trust "hands on" and to comply. Of course it is about knowing how to do it so that "force" is not part of the equation. I don't suggest to go against your Vet's advice, but I wonder if there are natural therapies that might be able to help with inflammatory conditions sufficiently to escape the necessity for use of anti-inflammatory drugs??? Good luck JulesP, whichever you try. I hope it works out the best for your dog.

Poodlecrazy - I'm attaching a picture for each of the tools I referred to, just for ID sake. I've read that : There is one which is shaped like a little hoe on each end of a metal shaft (Hoe Scaler). This is great for breaking large pieces of calculus off. There is also one shaped like a claw on the end (Claw Scraper). It also is fairly good at getting the big pieces of calculus off, plus it can get up along the gum-line a little better. The third type is like a little curvy wire thing on the end (Gracey Scraper). It is very stiff and good at getting the small stuff along the gum-line. This is a link to the site I was reading : Dr Dan Dental Disease in Dogs I will speak to my Vet about the tools but in the meantime, of the ones pictured can you tell me what your combo one comprises of? Kiwi Kitten - I'm using PlaqueOff which is included in my boy's food. We're only in the early stages and I think I'm just beginning to notice some improvement, but I think the calculus build up already there will need a bit of help to come away. Is the Petzlife Oral Gel/Spray designed to be used as a toothpaste in conjunction with what I already use in food, or is it a teatment on its own? Not to worry - I'll look it up and read on it via the link you gave me