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Jess.

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  1. Dr Zoo have a good pet sunscreen, really happy with it. It doesn't have an SPF though. Often if I'm putting my own moisturiser sunscreen on I'll put a swipe on my BC boys nose too. Filtabac contains an antibacterial in it that burnt the skin on my BC's nose. I presumed his red irritated skin was from sunburn and I put even more on him. They have a straight sunscreen version in the UK I think, but only have the antibacterial combination version here. No idea why they don't bring the other one out too.
  2. Waterproof coveralls for a Poodle

    Hurrta have some lovely coverall type coats but you'll most likely have to get them from OS.
  3. Seems to be a trend with a few clubs - they might do some basics for fun but trying to juggle the basic training program/public needs vs. the more dedicated performance crew is getting increasingly difficult.
  4. Moon special events in January

    Really looking forward to the full moon on the 31st, unfortunately we tend to cop a bit of cloud cover even in Summer Shame it's a Wed night, but I'm still considering taking a drive an hour or so North to get a better vantage point.
  5. Woohoo congrats TSD At $46 a month its well worth it. I haven't done any SG stuff for a year or so now but I did a lot of her early online stuff - including Recallers, Contacts, Handling 360 etc. SGs work has given me the tools to make me the trainer I am today. While I'm not out there setting the world on fire competition wise I do have three high drive dogs that I can take anywhere, and do just about anything with because I know they will behave themselves and not cause an ounce of trouble. If I had $5 for every compliment I get on my dog's good behaviour from colleagues, friends, vets, accommodation places and general Joe public plus the peace of mind it gives you - I'd have paid my way through Recallers a dozen times over. 4 weeks training at our club is $40 for 3 hours. One of my battles with instructing agility is that so many dogs don't have the basic skills and the handlers don't have the understanding or confidence on how to tackle even basic life skills issues. The difference is understanding the dog training science behind it vs. being handed a "recipe" on how to fix x,y and z. It gives you the skills and the confidence to tackle so many of those life skills issues and get them sorted This is my high prey drive BC x Kelpie Zee chucking a wobbly asking for permission to chase bunnies - fairly sure it was bunnies because roos and wallabies don't create that much excitement. At no point did I tell her no or recall her, this is a genuine "check in or its your choice" moment. She did get a handful of treats as a reward for her awesome choices
  6. Definitely trim hairy feet down to flush against the paw pads if hairy feet are an issue. I second Bunnings mats - I have nearly all my floors covered between the rubber backed carpet squares (1m x 1m for $25) and Kmart gym mats. Protects my dogs and my wooden floors. One vet bill and one floor repolish pays for a lot of rubber matting. Ugly but definitely much more pet friendly, and much nicer to walk on in the cold of winter too which was the other benefit ;)
  7. Equipment Q - what kind of price do you put on second hand contact gear? I'm moving some club stuff on and while I don't want to give it away I also don't want it sitting around the shed for months either. Second hand sand coated full height dogwalk with training legs and a sand coated A-frame both in good condition. We also have some old seesaws in varying heights - all sand coated as well.
  8. When to rug up

    My now 11 y.o wore her polar fleece jarmies for night times last winter, and some of the colder days I left them on even though they have full access to the house during the day. This Autumn I had a few more pairs made up for her and she wears them night and day now. Warmer days with some nice sunshine I take them off for an hour or two so she can sun herself (she's black and very good at soaking up the rays!). But I only have to wave them at her and she runs at me and shoves her head in them, so I figure she likes them. Heater is on now and she's less than a foot from the outlet in her pink PJs.
  9. Have you heard yet TSD? Fingers crossed for you
  10. Good on you Tassie! I really enjoy the strength & conditioning work and I did consider doing the CFT part 1 but I need to finish my CMT course first before I sign up for any more I'm also working through whether I stick with training and actually get some "qualifications" in training or whether I head down the CMT/conditioning & strength work road.
  11. Ohhh good luck!! I toyed with the idea of applying for a working spot but decided not to I'm doing all three days as well, Bob was awesome when he was in Sydney last!
  12. Most of our dogs are quite high drive which is great - as we've really focussed on building that into the curriculum. Most would work themselves beyond tired if asked, so it is something I'm very conscious of and everyone has been really good with it without ever having to consider overworking being an issue. It's just not an issue I've ever struck in a club setting.
  13. I think time is the easiest one. Using a stop watch really helps. Pair people up if it's one jump work. Give them one thing to work on. 2 minutes work time each. Dog in crate whilst the other dog works. When you add in instructions then it's very easy to fill an hour and come away with 4-5 pieces of homework. The other thing is partner people up and they have to either write training notes for each other or help throw toys etc. But I'm a hard @r$e lol We do more structured stuff in our Foundation but our Advanced group is everything from Foundation graduates through to JDM level dogs. I tried structured exercises but our turn-up is so hit and miss, so I've learnt to be a lot more relaxed I think you're right though - time is probably the factor. Makes it hard when you have people who are only there to use the equipment, not participate in the class.
  14. Interesting question posed to me which I thought I'd ask here. What would you call excessive training or overworking a dog/s in a club training session? Time? Fitness of the dog? Response of the dog? It also runs into unsafe working i.e. around young dogs and jump heights. How would you define it in a club setting? How would you deal with it if it's an ongoing issue? The main concern is for the health and welfare of the dog, but also the implications for fellow students.
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