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Halti's And Obedience?


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Lots of clubs have rules about what gear you can use on your dog. Some make you use a correction collar! you need to ask the instructor if you can chat about the halti after class. Explain why you are worried about it. I personally would not be going to any club that made me use gear I wasn't happy with. Are martingales actually 'allowed' at your club? All the people in my class have to use a flat collar, end of story. Next class they can have a choice of other collars.

Martingales are allowed at our club, actually they are encouraged. I came to our first class with Kei in a flat collar and was told that it was not suitable. The club sold me the martingale before we started. To be honest I dont mind it though as Kei seems to work better in it and I never have it on too tight. I will try and have a talk to the instructor about the halti next week. I am putting it off (and I know it) to avoid confrontation :happydance2:

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It may take a little while for things to work out at club.. Give it some time. Try doing some training down there other days when there is no club training. Keep your sessions SHORT. Use a treat your dog goes ape for, and dont be afraid to use it to your advantage at this stage in her training. You can wean the food off later once she knows what it is you want from her.

Watch your footwork too when you do your exercises. IF you always finish on the left foot coming up last for sit, and you do the same for stand/drop, she will be getting a silent cue from your leg to sit. Something else to think about - sorry. Try giving the command for stand/drop on the opposite foot.

You said you train daily at home.. Do you train outside of your back yard?? If you don't you should.. even if its the footpath opposite your house. The smells at home are something she knows and is comfortable with.. Even the outside footpath has different smells.. minor distraction.. Oval where many dogs congregate.. HUGE distraction.

Personally I think hour long classes are just too long. Especially for young and inexperienced dogs. Try doing heaps of short, intensive and high motivated (heaps of food, toys or whatever turns her on) training, then have a game to break it all up. Do not be afraid in the early stages to use heaps of food to teach the dog what it is you want. Once she knows what sit when you stop is for example, only then reward a nice straight sit, a quick sit etc. Likewise for each and every new exercise.

If you find that she is not responding or starting to lose focus, try asking her to do something she does well, praise it. then go and have a quite you and her time.. Don't raz her up.. Just go for a quite calm walk away from class.. then come back.

Some clubs of course will not like that. But taking a break is also a double edged sword. It can give you and the dog the break you need, but it can also condition the dog to get non responsive so training DOES take a break.

I have used Vicks under a dogs nose in training before.. only a small amount is needed, they cannot smell anything other than vicks.. Also used to use it under the stallions noses when I did dressage.

Edited by Mystiqview
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It may take a little while for things to work out at club.. Give it some time. Try doing some training down there other days when there is no club training. Keep your sessions SHORT. Use a treat your dog goes ape for, and dont be afraid to use it to your advantage at this stage in her training. You can wean the food off later once she knows what it is you want from her.

Watch your footwork too when you do your exercises. IF you always finish on the left foot coming up last for sit, and you do the same for stand/drop, she will be getting a silent cue from your leg to sit. Something else to think about - sorry. Try giving the command for stand/drop on the opposite foot.

You said you train daily at home.. Do you train outside of your back yard?? If you don't you should.. even if its the footpath opposite your house. The smells at home are something she knows and is comfortable with.. Even the outside footpath has different smells.. minor distraction.. Oval where many dogs congregate.. HUGE distraction.

Personally I think hour long classes are just too long. Especially for young and inexperienced dogs. Try doing heaps of short, intensive and high motivated (heaps of food, toys or whatever turns her on) training, then have a game to break it all up. Do not be afraid in the early stages to use heaps of food to teach the dog what it is you want. Once she knows what sit when you stop is for example, only then reward a nice straight sit, a quick sit etc. Likewise for each and every new exercise.

If you find that she is not responding or starting to lose focus, try asking her to do something she does well, praise it. then go and have a quite you and her time.. Don't raz her up.. Just go for a quite calm walk away from class.. then come back.

Some clubs of course will not like that. But taking a break is also a double edged sword. It can give you and the dog the break you need, but it can also condition the dog to get non responsive so training DOES take a break.

I have used Vicks under a dogs nose in training before.. only a small amount is needed, they cannot smell anything other than vicks.. Also used to use it under the stallions noses when I did dressage.

Hi Mystiqview, thanks for the training tips :rofl:

Yes we do train most nights outside the house. I try and go to different places when I can whether it's the park, football oval, walking trails etc. Last night we went down to the local hockey oval which Kei found to be incredibly distracting - nose to the ground 99% of the time when on the grass :D I would like to train at the kennel club grounds but unfortunately the site is a 30 min drive away and locked up when it's not in use so not really possible.

I usually train for around 15 - 30 mins but this is broken up with walks, exploring and play so not too full on for him and doesn't get boring. I also train intermitedly throughout the day ie. sit before opening the crate/door, heeling up and down the corridor, stays, drops and the look command.

I agree about leaving the class when Kei starts to get tired and lose focus. The hour is really too long and he needs the break at this age. I think that the instructor might get a bit funny about it though - one of those ones that thinks you should MAKE the dog co-opperate no matter what and 'that would be giving in to him' :laugh:

The Vicks under the nose could be a good suggestion but does this not burn the skin? I have a kids Tixilix formula which is a bit gentler so might try that.

I am also wondering if he is going through a bit of a fear period and if this could be contributing to the training probs? He is barking at kids (adults not so much) and if someone new comes to the house he will bark at them and hide behind me :noidea: He has been well socialised with other dogs, kids and adults since we brought him home and this behaviour has only started in the past few weeks.

He will bark at kids if we are out walking (an attention seeking thing maybe?? Tail is always wagging when he does this) If he is approached by another adult when out on a walk he is happy to go to them but if aproached at home he hides :rofl::laugh:

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Secret,your dog has answered the question for you.Note his reaction to the Headcollar.I would seek out a source of knowledge that can teach you and the dog the basic's of walking on a flat collar.Tony

Yes Tony, I believe you're right :rofl: At the end of the day we had probably both made our decision that the halti wasn't suitable before the question was even asked.

Being a first time owner and having an obedience instructor who was so pro-halti and insistant on us using it made me wonder if I was just being overly paranoid about it, but after the responses and advice I have recieved here though I realise that my concerns are probably warranted.

A flat collar or martingale is a much better option for us and training and patience is probably the key to ending our pulling issues.

Now.... how do I go about changing the whole obedience program so we dont have to do the circle?? :thumbsup::laugh:

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As I have been reading your posts I have to admit that I have felt a bit grumpy as I have been reading them as an instructor. Today I walked out of class and did a lot of things differently from what we were told to do!!!

Sooooo I think that you need to do what you think is right for your dog but prepare to not be very popular, lol!! I don't really care if people think I am a pain in the arse - my dog comes first. This is an important lesson for newbies to learn! I am just a bit more polite about it now!

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Yep, I think that I'm gonna end up the black sheep of the class :) Oh well... Hopefully I can find a way to make the training a bit more *flexible*

If nothing else at least our classes are great socialisation :thumbsup: and I seriously doubt that everyone goes home and does everything *exactly* the way they are supposed to do anyway. We never set out to buy an obedience dog - just want him to learn a few manners... Yes- the dog comes first :wave:

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I would keep with the martingale collar for a young Ridgie- they don't have much difference in the size of their skull and their neck and I have seen a few slip out of their flat collars (also, the loose skin makes this easy :wave: ).

Also, I wouldn't be doing an hour of drill-sergeant like lessons with a Ridgie, especially not a pup. Manners and respect are very important for the breed (as is socialisation!!), but they get bored with constant repetition, most dogs do but Ridgies are hounds... not exactly bred to work hand in hand with man looking for constant guidance like many of the herding and gundog breeds. Keep things FUN and interesting for him.

I've never owned a Ridge but I do like them and spend a fair bit of time around them, gorgeous gorgeous dogs and you are very lucky :thumbsup:

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