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Jack Russell Terrier


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The Jack Russell Terrier

ANKC Standard

(from http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=60 )

Group: Group 2 (Terriers)

General Appearance: A strong, active, lithe working Terrier of great character with flexible body of medium length. His smart movement matches his keen expression. Tail docking is optional and the coat may be smooth, rough or broken.

Characteristics: A lively, alert and active Terrier with a keen, intelligent expression.

Temperament: Bold and fearless, friendly but quietly confident.

Head And Skull: The skull should be flat and of moderate width gradually decreasing in width to the eyes and tapering to a wide muzzle with very strong jaws. There should be a well defined stop but not over pronounced. The length from the stop to the nose should be slightly shorter than from the stop to the occiput with the cheek muscles well developed. The nose should be black.

Eyes: Small dark and with keen expression. MUST not be prominent and eyelids should fit closely. The eyelid rims should be pigmented black. Almond shape.

Ears: Button or dropped of good texture and great mobility.

Mouth: Deep wide and powerful jaws with tight-fitting pigmented lips and strong teeth closing to a scissor bite.

Neck: Strong and clean allowing head to be carried with poise.

Forequarters: Shoulders well sloped back and not heavily loaded with muscle. Forelegs straight in bone from the elbow to the toes whether viewed from the front or the side and with sufficient length of upper arm to ensure elbows are set under the body with sternum clearly in front of shoulder blades.

Body: Chest deep rather than wide, with good clearance and the brisket located at the height mid-way between the ground and the withers. The body should be proportioned marginally longer than tall, measuring slightly longer from the withers to the root of the tail than from the withers to the ground. Back level. Ribs should be well sprung from the spine, flattening on the sides so that the girth behind the elbows can be spanned by two hands - about 40 cms to 43 cms. The loins should be short, strong and deeply muscled.

Hindquarters: Strong and muscular, balanced in proportion to the shoulder, hind legs parallel when viewed from behind while in free standing position. Stifles well angulated and hocks low set.

Feet: Round, hard, padded, not large, toes moderately arched, turned neither in nor out.

Tail: Docked: The tip of the tail should be on the same level as ears. May droop at rest. When moving should be erect.

Undocked: May droop at rest. When moving should be erect.

Gait/Movement: True, free and springy.

Coat: May be smooth, broken or rough. Must be weatherproof, preferably unaltered.

Colour: White MUST predominate with black and/or tan markings. The tan markings can be from the lightest tan to the richest tan (chestnut).

Sizes: Ideal Height: 25 cms (10 ins) to 30 cms (12 ins)

The weight in kg being equivalent of 1 kg to each 5 cms in height, i.e. a 25 cm high dog should weigh approximately 5 kgs and a 30 cm high dog should weigh 6 kgs.

Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog. However, the following weaknesses should be particularly penalised:

(a) Lack of true Terrier characteristics

(b) Lack of balance, i.e. over exaggeration of any points

© Sluggish or unsound movement

(d) Faulty mouth.

Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

3. How common is it in Australia?

4. What is the average lifespan?

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

9. How much grooming is required?

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post).

  • Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed.
  • You do not have to answer all questions
  • Please keep posts limited to answering questions or for asking further questions if you require more (or expanded) information.

  • Thanks 1
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QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

I own, breed and show JRT's, currently have 4 at home.

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

Copied from the JRT Club of NSW, it explaines it better than I can :grouphug:

The Reverend John "Jack" Russell was born in Devonshire, England, in 1795 and died there in 1883.

As a young man, he won an exhibition to Exeter College, Oxford, and obtained his degree despite the fact that the authorities considered that he spent too much time and money on fox hunting.

It was during Russell's time at Oxford that he purchased his first "Jack Russell" terrier, a bitch called Trump.

John Russell was ordained in 1819. Although he was a highly intelligent man, henever rose higher in his chosen profession than curate. This was probably due to the fact that his immediate superior, the Bishop of Exeter disapproved of sporting parsons!

Nevertheless, Russell appears to have been a good, hardworking minister as well as enjoying a reputation as a sportsman, Master of Foxhounds and breeder of hunt terriers.

Jack Russell moved with his family to Swymbridge. He had a small pack of hounds, which he hunted regularly. He also judged at Agricultural and Hound Shows, and was a founder member of the Kennel Club. He enjoyed a lifelong friendship with the Royal Family, and after his death the Prince of Wales bought a portrait of Trump which still hangs in the Harness Room at Sandringham today.

Russell's terriers were mostly what we today would call broken-coated, although they would occasionally throw a smooth coat. They were longer on the leg too, as they were expected to run with the hounds. The terriers were not used to kill the fox, merely to bolt, with their strong jaws, often ripping out the undergrowth, roots and earth. The temperament had to be steady, as working and living in a pack (and amongst hounds) there was no room for fighters or cringers.

The modern Australian Jack Russell Terrier probably has a smattering of other breeds in it. Some say Sealyham, some Bull Terrier, and a few even say Italian Greyhound! It is likely that the original terriers bred by Jack Russell were fox terriers, with his particular strain remaining the working terrier.

Recent and Australian History

By the late 1960s, early 1970s, the most common Jack Russell Terrier stood between 10" and 12" at the shoulder. There were those over 12", but these were in the minority. In the United Kingdom, each hunt had its Hunt Terriers made up usually of an assortment of Jack Russells, Borders, Lakelands and "Patterdales". Even now, the size of the Jack Russell in a hunt kennel will vary depending on its usage. Where the terriers are expected to run with hounds, they will be longer in leg, and where the terriers are taken to the earth, in a saddle bag, or more likely today in the back of a station wagon, they will be the shorter variety. In the hunts' closed season the kennels usually has an open day, accompanied by a Hound Show, Terrier Show and Terrier racing. There are always classes for Jack Russells along with other working terriers and competition is fierce amongst the terrier men from the local hunts. These days are also great fun.

In the early 1970s, the Jack Russell Terrier Club of Great Britain was formed, and this body instituted a very primitive form of registration. Soon, Jack Russell Terrier Clubs were being formed world wide, including Australia. The Jack Russell Terrier Club of Australia was formed in 1972. This national organisation set up a particularly comprehensive registration system, along with a formal breed standard. This club also initiated discussions with the KCC regarding the possibility of the breed being accepted for registration as a pure breed. The ideal height for the Jack Russell Terrier in Australia was to be 10" to 12". In the United Kingdom, their Jack Russell Terrier standard has two height groups for showing purposes - 11" and under and over 12". Again, these are variances of the Jack Russell Terrier and not "Parson".

Here in Australia, the Jack Russell Terrier Club initially held one show a year, but by the late 1980s, states were holding one or two shows each per year, as well as the National Annual Show. Discussions continued with mainly the KCC and from them to the Australian National Canine Council (ANKC). By now most Canine Councils were giving approval for their Judges to officiate at Jack Russell Shows, and those who were taking an interest in the breed began to realise that the type was improving, and the numbers increasing. In 1990, there were 109 entries at the Jack Russell Terrier Club of Australia's NSW Branch Easter Show.

Since then, the Breed seems to have gone from strength to strength. Jack Russell Terriers frequently gain Group awards at Championship Shows, are trialled at Obedience Trials, run in Endurance Tests, and compete in Earthdog Tests. Their most popular role, though is as pets, where they make lively and amusing companions.

3. How common is it in Australia?

Very common, although most Jacks people see are porely bred Jacks with bad temprements which gives the breed a bad name. They are very common on farms and are very often bred for the pet market by BYB's. A lot of people don't know they come in rough

4. What is the average lifespan?

10 - 15 years although I have heard of many living beyond that.

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

They are a terrier originally bred to hunt. They can be a little full on at times but in the end are a great family dog who loves to play games and chase you around the yard.

Some are known for having little dog syndrome, where they don't relise that they are small and probebly cannot take on the bigger dogs if given the chance.

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

A good 1/2 walk at least once a day is enough to keep them sane, although they will take as much as they can get. Free running is not recommended unless you have a fantastic recall or a fenced in yard becuase if they come across a burrow or bunny, they are gone.

If they are not given any exercise and are alone in the yard, they can become bored very quickly and destructive.

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

If they know what they are getting in to, then yes. They need to be prepared that even though they are a small dog, they are quite high maintenance in the playing/exercise department.

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

Yes they can, but probebly by digging up the garden, chewing anything left in sight and barking at the birds. JRT's love company and are more suited some someone who can spend a bit of time with them or have a play mate to play with.

9. How much grooming is required?

Smooth - a brush once ever day or every second day with a mit. The smooth coats loose more hair than the rough or broken coats and to keep it from building up a good brush out regullary is reccomended.

Broken - about the same, also trimming of the feet.

Rough - Hand stripping is they best way to keep a rough coat but is not nessary, a good comb through a couple of times a week, checking ears and keeping the feet and in between the toes tidy is the best way to go. I alwasy say not to clip or shave because it will make the coat horrible to deal with when it grows back.

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

They can be. I recommend the children be 5+ when getting a JRT as it is safer for the child and puppy. They are not agressive at all but can be full on when playing and they need a firm hand when training, not letting them getting away with anything and everything.

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

Not really, they are a pretty healthy breed. I do strongly suggest that people go through a registered breeder who can tell you about the dogs background. All small dogs can be prone to patella problems but I haven't seen any problems in the breed around for a while.

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

The only tests being done that I am aware of is for Primary Lens Luxation, they are tested yearly and if they breeder advertises that they do these eye tests, they should be able to show you the paperwork.

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Do most groomers know how to groom a rough coat properly? Do you get a groomer to do them or is it easy to do yourself? Do you ahve any pics of a rough not stripped and a rough stripped? Thanks weisnjac :laugh:

I'll post some pic's of my girl Paige tonight who I only just gave a good grooming. Looks like a different dog :laugh:

I haven't heard of many groomers who will hand strip, but I'm sure there are some around. It may cost you extra though.

Depending on how you want them to look you may want to keep their coats natural, I prefer them looking cleaner and neater. A Mars Coat King is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to stripping out roughs, I don't use it on the show dogs, but for the pets, it's great at getting al the dead undercoat out.

With Paige, I go over her with the Mars Coat King, sizzor the neck and bum to get rid of frills and use a good stripping knife to pull all the top coat fly away hair thats ready to come out. It's very very easy and fun too boot :cry: Well I think it is anyway, many people think I'm strange :laugh:

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1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

I have a Pedigree Jack Russell Terrier bitch, from the former Myrmidon Kennels, she would be regarded as a pet quality JRT.

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

Further to Weisnjacs excellent account, I have also read in various places that the Parson John Russell also kept his pack in the house with him, an uncommon practice in those days, and liked them to be companionalble as well as good hunters.

3. How common is it in Australia?

I think the Jack Russell Terrier should become the National Dog of Australia, there are so many of them. (Of course Kelpie and ACD owners might disagree) :thumbsup:

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  • 3 years later...

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