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West Highland White Terrier


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The West Highland White Terrier

ANKC Standard

(from http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=73 )

Group: Group 2 (Terriers)

General Appearance: Strongly built; deep in chest and back ribs; level back and powerful quarters on muscular legs and exhibiting in a marked degree a great combination of strength and activity.

Characteristics: Small, active, game, hardy, possessed of no small amount of self-esteem with a varminty appearance.

Temperament: Alert, gay, courageous, self-reliant but friendly.

Head And Skull: Skull slightly domed; when handled across forehead presents a smooth contour. Tapering very slightly from skull at level of ears to eyes. Distance from occiput to eyes slightly greater than length of foreface. Head thickly coated with hair, and carried at right angle or less, to axis of neck. Head not to be carried in extended position. Foreface gradually tapering from eye to muzzle. Distinct stop formed by heavy, bony ridges immediately above and slightly overhanging eye, and slight indentation between eyes. Foreface not dished nor falling away quickly below eyes, where it is well made up. Jaws strong and level. Nose black and fairly large, forming smooth contour with rest of muzzle. Nose not projecting forward.

Eyes: Set wide apart, medium in size, not full, as dark as possible. Sharp and intelligent, which, looking from under heavy eyebrows, impart a piercing look. Light coloured eyes highly undesirable.

Ears: Small, erect and carried firmly, terminating in sharp point, set neither too wide nor too close. Hair short and smooth (velvety), should not be cut. Free from any fringe at top. Round-pointed, broad, large or thick ears or too heavily coated with hair most undesirable.

Mouth: As broad between canine teeth as is consistent with varminty expression required. Teeth large for size of dog, with regular scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws.

Neck: Sufficiently long to allow proper set of head required, muscular and gradually thickening towards base allowing neck to merge into nicely sloping shoulders.

Forequarters: Shoulders sloping backwards. Shoulder blades broad and lying close to chest wall. Shoulder joint placed forward, elbow well in, allowing foreleg to move freely, parallel to axis of body. Forelegs short and muscular, straight and thickly covered with short, hard hair.

Body: Compact. Back level, loins broad and strong. Chest deep and ribs well arched in upper half presenting a flattish side appearance. Back ribs of considerable depth and distance from last rib of quarters as short as compatible with free movement of body.

Hindquarters: Strong, muscular and wide across top. Legs short, muscular and sinewy. Thighs very muscular and not too wide apart. Hocks bent and well set in under body so as to be fairly close to each other when standing or moving. Straight or weak hocks most undesirable.

Feet: Forefeet larger than hind, round, proportionate in size, strong, thickly padded and covered with short harsh hair. Hindfeet are smaller and thickly padded. Under surface of pads and all nails preferable black.

Tail: 13-15 cms (5-6 ins) long, covered with harsh hair, no feathering, as straight as possible, carried jauntily, not gay or carried over back. A long tail undesirable, and on no account should tails be docked.

Gait/Movement: Free, straight and easy all round. In front legs freely extended forward from shoulder. Hind movement free, strong and close. Stifle and hocks well flexed and hocks drawn under body giving drive. Stiff, stilted movement behind and cow hocks highly undesirable.

Coat: Double coated. Outer coat consists of harsh hair, about 5 cms (2 ins) long, free from any curl. Undercoat, which resembles fur, short, soft and close. Open coats most undesirable. Skin must appear healthy.

Colour: White

Sizes: Height: approx. 28 cms (11 ins) at withers

Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

3. How common is it in Australia?

4. What is the average lifespan?

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

9. How much grooming is required?

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post).

  • Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed.
  • You do not have to answer all questions
  • Please keep posts limited to answering questions or for asking further questions if you require more (or expanded) information.

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QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) First time Owner and Exhibitor

2. Where and why was the breed first developed? From Scotland to seek and dig out small game

3. How common is it in Australia? Very

4. What is the average lifespan? 12-14 years

5. What is the general temperament/personality? There is a mixture, in the right upbringing they can be outgoing sociable dogs. Some can be very rough and rowdy.

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? My boy (14 months) loves a good 15-30 minute play out the back of throwing toys, otherwise when you feel like it a nice long walk.

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? Yes, as long as the dog is put into its pecking order, they are a breed they will easily try to rule you.

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? No, I would recommend another dog. My boy has another dog living with him and is left alone about 8-9 hours a day, and occcaisionally still likes to dig.

9. How much grooming is required? Pet, weekly brushing and a clip once every 6-8 weeks. Show dog, brushing every second day, and maintenance stripping of about 30mins - hour then show day about 1.5hours before getting to the show

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? Not sure, based on my dog I would say no, as he is soft if he jumps up

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? luxating patellas, Craniomandibular osteopathy, legg-perthes

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) Ask to see parents, Australia doesnt have any health testing regulations/requirements in place so there is no 'standard' Ask ages dogs they bred lived to, ask any known problems with dogs they have bred. If the breeder is hesitant, I would RUN!

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OK a friend has a new westie pup, and is thinking about showing it (well i told her she comes to the shows with us anyways so she may as well show it!). Breeder is happy for the pup to be shown, but breeder is in another state so can't help us out here.

At what age should you start preparing the coat for showing? I have siberians which are pretty much a wash, dry and fluff breed, so stripping etc are all new to me! I've got a few groomer friends i can catch up with at shows, but since we aren't showing for the next few weeks, just want to make sure there isn't anything else that needs to be done to the coat in the meantime. Pup is approx 12 weeks.

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If the coat is ready to come out, strip it out now, I started at 12 weeks with my boy, and stripped him back to nothing.

The way you tell is grab a few (two or three hairs) by your thumb and forefinger and if it comes out easily, then the coat is ready to be stripped.

Here he is at his first show stripped back to nothing, just before his first show

DSC00618.jpg

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So do you strip out all that can come out as a pup? Or do you start shaping them right from the start? I enjoy grooming but have never had anything to do with terriers or terrier coats before - total newbie as you can guess lol

I'm seeing her this weekend, so i'll have a play around with her, see what her coat is doing.

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It is debated, some pull the whole lot out, and some will only do the jacket and neck.

I recommend taking the whole lot out to encourage the course coat to come through. I left a little on the sides/skirts and belly as they werent ready to come out..

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

As a pet, how hard are they to keep looking reasonably clean?

Would they be suitable for a junior handler's first dog? I am thinking maybe not, due to this comment:

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? Yes, as long as the dog is put into its pecking order, they are a breed they will easily try to rule you.

Would they enjoy obedience and agility?

Are they suitable to live and play with larger breed dogs who are boisterous, but used to playing with tiny dogs?

Absolutely no plans here for several years, but I do enjoy finding out about different beeds.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Lucys Mama,

Sorry I have just noticed your query.

As a pet, they are easy to keep clean. if they get muddy/dirty just wait till it dries, then brush through the coat and it should just brush out... Mine get a bath every 4-6 weeks.

My first Westie Cruise (deceased now) was used as a junior handlers dog on a number of occaions, but I had Cruise trained well in ring craft, so it really depends how much effort the owner has put into training the dog.

Yes, they do enjoy obedience and agility, its not so common with westie owners here in aust, but it quite popular in the US, I have trained both of mine basic obedience commands, I had intended to get into training and trial cruise, but he passed before i got the chance, but am in the process of working with my new boy.

Both mine have run with the inlaws goldies, and been great. Hemi LOVES getting boisterous with one of the younger goldens, and both of them seem to know each others limits. Hemi loves any dog that will pay him attention.

As a pet, how hard are they to keep looking reasonably clean?

Would they be suitable for a junior handler's first dog? I am thinking maybe not, due to this comment:

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? Yes, as long as the dog is put into its pecking order, they are a breed they will easily try to rule you.

Would they enjoy obedience and agility?

Are they suitable to live and play with larger breed dogs who are boisterous, but used to playing with tiny dogs?

Absolutely no plans here for several years, but I do enjoy finding out about different beeds.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi Everyone,

Just wondering were is the best place or best breeder to buy a Westie puppy from in WA??

Is it also possible to learn how to show them?? I know it can be difficult due to the strict coat stripping requirments but I would love to learn and just have some fun as well, as they are such an endearing little dog....who wouldn't want one!!!! :rofl::eek:

Also how can you become a registered breeder (only want to do this on a very small scale) with top bloodlines and help promote the breed in professional manner....I have been told that you can't show or breed them if you are a newbie!!!!!!! If this is so then how will the breed grow what is the point of showing if new people can't enter would you not just end up showing against the same people/dogs time and time again???? Bloodlines would become stale and repeated, line bred etc???

Is there a Westie club in WA??

Cheers WestieLove :thumbsup:

Edited by westielove
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  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Everyone,

Just wondering were is the best place or best breeder to buy a Westie puppy from in WA??

Is it also possible to learn how to show them?? I know it can be difficult due to the strict coat stripping requirments but I would love to learn and just have some fun as well, as they are such an endearing little dog....who wouldn't want one!!!! :happydance::happydance:

Also how can you become a registered breeder (only want to do this on a very small scale) with top bloodlines and help promote the breed in professional manner....I have been told that you can't show or breed them if you are a newbie!!!!!!! If this is so then how will the breed grow what is the point of showing if new people can't enter would you not just end up showing against the same people/dogs time and time again???? Bloodlines would become stale and repeated, line bred etc???

Is there a Westie club in WA??

Cheers WestieLove :laugh:

There are a few breeders in WA, but most of them just breed when they need a pup for them, and not just the market, so not very often.

I am more than happy to help learn how to show your Westie, I can try and help you with grooming, but still learning there myself :)

First of all you will need to become a member of Dogswest so you can show your pup - and have it transferred into your name

You will then need to pass a test through Dogswestto become a breeder. I would wait to see if you enjoy showing, the bitch you have is quality.. there is no point breeding if she is just average , and then you will need to find a stud dog which compliments her, and you probably wont breed her till shes 18 months so you have plenty of time to figure out if this is the track you wish to go down.

It is best to show that you are genuine (showing and leaning about the breed) and then go down the track... Alot of breeders would have been burnt by BYB's so you can understand their reluctance

There isnt a Westie Club in WA - However we do have the WA Terrier Club, which usually has an OK turn out of Westies... I think their next show is on 3 October

Come and Join us in the Westie thread in the Breed Sub Forums section :)

Edited by RoxyNHemi
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Thanks so much for your advise :happydance::) ,I will be going to the Championship show in October so I hope to meet some Westie people and see how they show, ....I would see if I like showing first before I breed, as in the pony world and my belief is that if they can't win at a fairly high level of showing then they should not be bred from, after all breeding is about keeping the breed true to type and making it better and stronger and not breeding faults or trying to "up" breed.

So although I am a newbie to the dog show/ breed world I have over 35 years in the horse show/breed world so there are a lot of similarilties.... :laugh: .

If my puppy turns out not to be good enough to show or breed from it does't worry us in the least, as she will always be our loved family companion and friend before she is a show dog or dam.

Will look up the westie thread on the breeders section would be great !!!

Thanks again - It's so nice to feel welcome and have people such as yourself offer help :):happydance: ....

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Thanks so much for your advise :happydance::) ,I will be going to the Championship show in October so I hope to meet some Westie people and see how they show, ....I would see if I like showing first before I breed, as in the pony world and my belief is that if they can't win at a fairly high level of showing then they should not be bred from, after all breeding is about keeping the breed true to type and making it better and stronger and not breeding faults or trying to "up" breed.

So although I am a newbie to the dog show/ breed world I have over 35 years in the horse show/breed world so there are a lot of similarilties.... :laugh: .

If my puppy turns out not to be good enough to show or breed from it does't worry us in the least, as she will always be our loved family companion and friend before she is a show dog or dam.

Will look up the westie thread on the breeders section would be great !!!

Thanks again - It's so nice to feel welcome and have people such as yourself offer help :):happydance: ....

I will be at the WATC show in October, as well as the Royal Show - if you were going to have a look then.. I will most likely be found helping out with Amstaffs, but may be around helping the Westie ppl too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Westies do well in obedience but remember they are a terrier so you both will have to work that bit harder.

I am curious as to how Westies go in competition obedience? I am trying not to get a second dog! lol
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I am curious as to how Westies go in competition obedience? I am trying not to get a second dog! lol

I had my last boy doing everything I asked of him (sit, drop, stay, come) and was just about to start classes so I could look into competing, and he passed away

My current boy is almost 10 months, I have put limited training into him, and he sits, drops, has a bit of a recall and shakes...

So yes, I think it can be done... In the states I think htey are very competitive, I heard a Westie was top obedience dog a few years back

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