shells Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 I bought new clippers - they didnt really have detailed instructions LOL (well what I would have liked to have read). By reading the guide I figure oil blades before use, after 10 mins of use and let blade cool down and at the end of grooming - is this correct? Is there anything else I should be doing? If the blades are too oily will they not cut? My number 30 blade wouldnt cut again after I oiled it and let it cool earlier (it had been working fine before that). How much oil do I put on the blade? I have Wahl KM2 and am using a metal snap on comb with #10 blade on the body, a #30 on face, chest and feet and finishing the feet with a toe blade. Both dogs have survived my first attempt (and they dont look awful - which is a bonus LOL). My male wouldnt really let me do his face and my female isnt too good with her feet but I did the best I could. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 (edited) I clean mine with Blade Wash after every use, dry them with a paper towel, put a drop of oil on them with the clippers switched on so the blade is moving and then wipe off the excess oil. I don't oil the blades while I'm clipping. Oh sorry I missed the bit about a scissor recommendation, buy the best scissors you can afford, they work better, last longer and are easier to use. I have Roseline and Jaguar, thinning shears and straights, Roseline are better IMO. Edited October 23, 2009 by Miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merijigs Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 I never knew how to oil my blades properly until shown just how to do it by a shearer. Before you start to use the blade, run the clipper and let one or two drops of clipper oil or any light machine oil fall onto the centre of the top side of the clipper blade. Continue to allow the clipper to run for a few moments (30secs.) to disperse the oil along the full width of the blade and there you have it. The advantages of oiling the blade are to keep the cutting blade sharp and to allow the clipper to run cooler for much longer. Before receiving this advice I used to practically drown the blade with oil and consequently get oil on the dogs coat with the first stroke plus I would get hot blades especially with the finer #30 and #40. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellz Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Also, when you store them, wrap them in kitchen wrap and put a bit of chalk into the container in which you keep them to absorb any moisture and prevent rusting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
becks Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 I would oil them before putting them away, oil and let blades run for awhile, wipe off excess and then store somewhere dry or wrapped in the oillyy tissue you used to wipe off the excess. Roseline are a good make of scissor, not to pricey if you do drop them! Last well and stay sharp for along time. just remember to only work on a clean, dry coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shells Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 My number 30 blade wouldnt cut again after I oiled it and let it cool earlier (it had been working fine before that). After thinking I had broke my new clippers - it turns out the #30 blade must be blunt already (after only a little use on 2 dogs feet and face) - as the other blades which are Wahl and Andis are working fine. The #30 is a generic blade so obviously not as good quality - Does that sound right?. I am suprised it wont even cut at all they the others are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
becks Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 did you use it on newly clean coat? any dirt in the coat, including bits of soil/sand in the paws will blunt a blade quicker then anything and can even chip out a tooth on the blade. generics - you get what you pay for! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poodle3081 Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 My number 30 blade wouldnt cut again after I oiled it and let it cool earlier (it had been working fine before that). After thinking I had broke my new clippers - it turns out the #30 blade must be blunt already (after only a little use on 2 dogs feet and face) - as the other blades which are Wahl and Andis are working fine. The #30 is a generic blade so obviously not as good quality - Does that sound right?. I am suprised it wont even cut at all they the others are fine. Many blades even brand names are not as sharp as they could be when new. I have heard of all brands, Wahl, Oster and Andis blades blunt when new. Contact the retailer and they may be able to have it sharpened free of charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shells Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 did you use it on newly clean coat? any dirt in the coat, including bits of soil/sand in the paws will blunt a blade quicker then anything and can even chip out a tooth on the blade.generics - you get what you pay for! Beautiful, clean and blow dryed . The blade was included as bonus so I *didnt* actually pay for it but maybe thats why it was a freebie. I will email the place - their customer service the other day was fantastic so I am sure they will help me out. Do you usually have to send the blades away to be sharpend or what type of places locally do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poodle3081 Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 did you use it on newly clean coat? any dirt in the coat, including bits of soil/sand in the paws will blunt a blade quicker then anything and can even chip out a tooth on the blade.generics - you get what you pay for! Beautiful, clean and blow dryed . The blade was included as bonus so I *didnt* actually pay for it but maybe thats why it was a freebie. I will email the place - their customer service the other day was fantastic so I am sure they will help me out. Do you usually have to send the blades away to be sharpend or what type of places locally do it? You need to send it to a reputable sharpener that specialises in clipper blades. I have know of people who send them to the local sharpening service and the blades ruined. If the place where you purchased sharpens then I would send them back as they will probably do them free of charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Daisy Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 If you don't want to spend a huge amount of money on scissors I have always found Wahls to be good. I also have a pair of Jaguar curves that are about 10 years old and I couldn't live without them. 30 blades can run hot if you are doing a lot with them. I have some ice cubes in a freezer bag and sit the blade on there for a minute or two if they start to run hot. 30's also get blunt quicker as the teeth are so close together, as they are a very close blade beware of them getting hot which they will do if they are blunt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4 Paws Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Checkout Colins site http://www.freewebs.com/clipperbladesharpening/ He's very helpful and a DOL member as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicestman77 Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 I bought new clippers - they didnt really have detailed instructions LOL (well what I would have liked to have read). By reading the guide I figure oil blades before use, after 10 mins of use and let blade cool down and at the end of grooming - is this correct? Is there anything else I should be doing? If the blades are too oily will they not cut? My number 30 blade wouldnt cut again after I oiled it and let it cool earlier (it had been working fine before that). How much oil do I put on the blade? I have Wahl KM2 and am using a metal snap on comb with #10 blade on the body, a #30 on face, chest and feet and finishing the feet with a toe blade. Both dogs have survived my first attempt (and they dont look awful - which is a bonus LOL). My male wouldnt really let me do his face and my female isnt too good with her feet but I did the best I could. Hi Shells, go to this site for oiling info. http://clipperbladesharpening.webs.com/bladeclipperhints.htm Also a blade getting hot depends in the ambient temp of the day as well. Another thing to concider is, are your blades being sharpened with a hollow grind plate or a flat-bed plate, your sharpener can answer that question for you, a hollow grind plate is the way to go(modern technology). The tension on your blades by using a hollow grind plate is lighter than a flat-bed plate(sharpening machine), in other words your clipper lasts longer, and works less harder(hot), and so do your blades last longer. Clipper blades only should get warm if tensioned correctly. If you want to get value out of your blades, always use a hollow grind machine for your sharpening, there are not to many hollow grind machines in Australia that are fully automatic(no human error), there are in fact a lot of copies, but they are not quite right, and the groomers pay dearly for the bad machines, clipper blades if sharpened on a hollow grind machine, and the blades are treated like a instrument, will actually get sharper, because they actually rub/bed-in more so(mesh), only dirt, and water wreck blades, but do follow the info on oiling your blades, no need to buy blade wash, use low-odor kero from Bunnings, and a dash of engine oil it is the same, and much cheaper, the blade wash you buy has a perfume in it though, you only use blade wash if you are cutting coats that have dirt in the coat, the kero cleans/flush's the dirt out of the blades, and the oil helps with stopping the blade from rusting, never ever let anyone boil your blades, if you do you may as well throw them away, blades are made from carbon steel, and you know what happens if you grind the door of your car, and leave it out in the rain, it rusts quickly, because one day you will not be able to sharpen your blades, and achieve a straight edge on the cutting edge, because of the rust in between the teeth(tynes). You can tell if your blade are being boiled, you will see they have black steel on them. Blades that are sharpened on a hollow grind machine only need to machine 0.0002th off a blade face each time they are sharpened, in other words, if you use a hollow grind sharpener you will get heaps & heaps of sharpens out of your blades, all you have to do when a blade is new is the measure the amount of steel on your back blade rail, divide it by 0.0002th and you will see you get heaps of sharpens, but if you use a sharpener that uses his/her hand, well, he/she may push on the front teeth or on the back rail, which is called operator error, and the blade owner pays for it. If you are a large petgroomer/vet always ask the new sharpener for a sample of their sharpening, the good ones will all ways be happy to. We wouldn't hessitate, nicestman77. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShesaLikeableBiBear Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Sound, sensbile and practical advice, NM77 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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