nicestman77

Try using this link http://clipperbladesharpening.webs.com/bladeclipperhints.htm

The Moser Arco SE blades can be sharpened on a flat-bed machine,but the more often they are sharpened, the more chance/thinner the bottom plate/teeth will break off on you.

Not according to Ian Parsons. Before he had hid own brand of oil, he said that the wahl oil was the best. If you visit Ian's website you will see that he's a Certified Grand Master Sharpener. It is his life and his passion, he cares about blades & scissors as much as we care about our dogs. If you ring Singer in Sydney, they sell their oil in 5lt containers to companies, and some people top small plastic bottles up, and tripple the price. Machine oil is the best you can use, it is used in sewing machines that have very close tolerances.

Hi there here is a home made doggie wash bath,and it works well, http://clipperbladesharpening.webs.com/dogspanailcutting.htm

father Pat, your jobs are always the best. happy new year to you! Hi my son, it is very nice to see you on this forum,give them heaps.

There is actually a clipper that was designed with a Wahl sized motor, and the Laube lever action. It was here in Australia,but the local market didn't go with it,it was slighly thinner than the oster it was only 2/3thirds the weight of the Oster clippers. We sold 500 clippers,none of them come back in for repairs,even after a couple of years.They are still plugging away. The was named (PetPro-Boss) 2 speed 2100/2900spm) Then what happened Kim Laube from the USA picked it up and called it Roxstar. http://www.kimlaubecoshop.com/361roxstarclipperkit.aspx I would say Kim Laube is trailing it in the USA, and if it does the job, and it will, he will push it into his professional stable.

The older style levers are available,as I said some repairers have been working on these issues,we appreciate the feedback,I have a old moto/saying, and it goes like this,"My worst critic is my best customer & friend"because that person who had the problem, took the time to let me know of the issue. I purchased 200pc of levers from the Ireland which fitted the Mozer 45 clipper(UK),which is infact is a Wahl KM2(AU) ,the only difference is the top case looks slightly different ay the front,but everything inside is the same,when I got them I was not happy,yes they was the new ones,so I did a lot of searching, and found the older type in another country,the ones I have now I have had no problems since. There are 2 things that will break levers. #1 Fatigue (worn tip) vibration will destroy levers quickly. #2 Tension (To high) See if you can test your blades for tension,and see if the tip has a bit of slap,or the tension is tight. The correct tension is 1kg without oil. We use the Laube top cutters,they have a spring set in the hole where the lever goes,that stops slapping between the lever, and top cutter. Plus Laube top cutters have 4 more teeth for finer cutting

We sharpen a lot of blades, and there is no one harder to sharpen than any others, the only difference is that some look more fancy than others do (brand) When buying blades always look for a blade that can be sharpened many times, I don't like the new Wahl blades they are weak, and break easy, and there is very little to machine off them, see pix.

I wonder if it has something wrong with it, whoever does your servicing is missing the problem. If the blade is not engaging properly it sort of won't work. If it did it from new,must be something wrong with it. You are welcome to send it to me,to see if I can find the problem,no charge.

OoooP's, I hope we didn't sharpen your blades, I would hate to think we had a upset customer. Clipper blades were only ever designed 30 plus years ago, to only work at 2100 strokes per minute(left/right),once a blade is revved higher it become unstable, and the clipping is done on the tips of the blades, plus they become blunt more quickly, it is best to use your clippers on a lower speed, that is why your old Osters are working ok, because they are only working at that lower speed(2100 spm). Wahl KM2 clippers on low is 3000spm, on high it is something like 4000spm, infact instead of cutting the fur once, it cuts several times because of the speed. If you use the clipper/s on a lower speed the blade doesn't heat up, and the clipper lasts twice as long before it wears out, or needs repairing.

yep and not wahls Please, ReadySetGo, I would like to know what happened to make you hate Wahl KM2 clippers, don't rush it, just list the problems, I think it is a positive direction for all involved, there are a few repairers on this forum, who would like to know, so they can improve there services.

When a clipper comes to me, and the cord is the problem often on that clipper, I replace the cord with a new length of cord from the local electrical parts supplier. I get away from the bad cord totally.

I think if Wahl(motor), and Laube(lever action) companies got together, and swapped ideas, they might come-up with a good clipper. The Wahl motor does a fair job, but it needs to be maintained regularly, but I am not to sure about the lever action, but is seems to work ok, the cords are a problem, but it can be modified so it lasts longer before repair is required, the carbon brush's are very soft to make the motor nice, and quiet. There are a few repairers working on these problems in AU. The problem in the grooming industry is everyone is so busy, they forget to service their equipment, then when the clipper/equipment lets them down, and it is always at the busiest times, they blame the brand post haste. The Laube clippers have a excellent simple lever action, but the motors are so expensive, and the clipper is a dog to work-on.

of course never use a blade hotter then you can lay on the back of your wrist for a second - if they head up you burn the skin and cats especially absolutely go postal on you . If you start clipping a double coatd breed for whatever reason you have to keep doing it because just the undercoat grows out like with your dog. I remember a malamute I did that was clipped a few times, then a vet said NO stop clipping ... that was horrific for me to shave. Poor dog was so good, stood there and with breaks it took us all day and 3 blades she was a solid carpet all over. We filled a few shopping bags with all her fur. I wouldnt be sedating the dog, I would be teaching it to have it done at home. Start little by little, I like Osters and Wahls, if you look after them they last. I just got my neighbour a Wahl horse clipper set, it JUST managed to do the cat (grant it, was only made for doing trims and bridle paths etc) If he's matted again try using a mat splitter first to help tease and break them then try gentle brushing, even if you just buy a cheap plastic human comb with wide teeth. More a token gesture to the dog to get used to being fussed with them move up to proper grooming combs. If you snag a knot DONT PULL! Stop, gently tease it apart with your fingers and try again with the comb. Pulled hairs are the easiest way to get a dog cranky I do cats as well, none ever sedated and I find patience is the best with them, clear the room of all other animals and people and have a nice chill out session together with the grooming stuff. Also done rabbits, also not sedated. A little bit of interesting reading,about Kool Lube sprays. The flash point is only 9">10", using it around a clipper with sparks inside the clipper could cause a massive explosion. MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET Oster Kool-Lube 3 http://www.botanybayimports.com.au/userfil...808-English.pdf

Great you got back. Next time you break a lever, have a look at the blade you are using to see what the surfaces look like to see if they are binding up at all. The other thing is the red tip on the lever, see if it is slightly able to move/wobble the red tip, the vibrations will distroy the lever. Also try to use the clipper on low speed. You can buy Singer Sewing machine oil at your local Woolies in the haberdashery section for 100mls for $2.10. Or, if you buy from your favourite supplier, ask them if they sell equivelent recommended oil.

Hi there 'ReadySetGo'. The reason the new levers break, is Wahl identified a problem with their clippers, what happens is when blades get hot there is a lot of friction on the blades, this in turn, burns the motors out quickly, much like you driving a car around town with the hand break on, things won't last very long, so they made the new levers so they break rather than burning out the motors or strip the gear wheel in the clipper. They call it the "sacrificial lamb " Using the correct oil is very important, sprays only cool the outside of the metal of the blade for a second, the best thing to do is to oil often, and slow the clipper down, if you use your clipper on high speed doesn't mean it is going to clip twice as fast, it means it is going to heat-up twice as fast. Hot blades distort the metal and don't cut crisp. Below is a clipper blade that was on a clipper that kept breaking levers, the operator was using a commercial spray, you will see how the blade had burnt it's self to pieces. And you can see by the rust on the blade they was defiantly, NO oil ever used on the blade. Sprays are intended to cool the blade quickly, but you have to re-oil before continuing clipping. For "How to look after Your blades" go to this link, should you wish. http://clipperbladesharpening.webs.com/bladeclipperhints.htm

I think the problem was when the vet only clipped the top coat off the dog, the vet left the down(bottom coat) there, and I would say by now unless you managed to brush the down out(bottom coat), it is one mat like a blanket, to check if it is a blanket, get a chrome comb and try to comb it through the undercoat, go down to the skin, if you can't comb through the coat, you really need to clipper the coat off totally, and let everything over the next couple of years grow to it's intended length, and start agian, Samoyed's have 2 coats, the thick dense lower coat is called a down, the down grows for winter, and should be brushed out ready for summer, or it will knot-up even more so, and the other coat is the long whispery(course top coat) coat, that is called the guide fur, it normally stays on the dog all the time, but once you clip the guide coat it takes about 2 years to grow to it's proper length again. To determine which blade to use, is easy, it will be the blade that goes just under the mat/knot on the coat. No need for sedation if you don't hurt the dog, if it is pleasurable the dog will lay there while you clip it off. Clipper blades will NOT go through mats/knots. If you buy a Wahl KM2 clipper, only use it on low speed, and the blades, and clipper will last twice as long, and won't need anything to cool the blades, only the normal oil(Singer Sewing Machine oil) Should you like to pick my brain, you are welcome to email me. You can get clipper hints using this link below, should you wish. http://clipperbladesharpening.webs.com/bladeclipperhints.htm

Gee Clyde, I knew you was a nice lady, it's people like yourself that makes Australia the place that we want to keep it like.

Hi there Boronia,if the blade cut first of when you got the clipper with the same blades,and you have clippered a few coats,it is most likely they need a touch-up. When using the plastic combs it is best to use a number #30 blade,the fur doesn't get between the blade and comb so easy. Below is some info on the correct blades required to do Bishons,I hope this helped you. nicestman77. BICHON "Show" trim, 1" coat #30 & 1 1/4" UC Pet trim, short #4F Matted strip down #7F or #5F Stomach #10 Pads #15 Hi there sorry, I should have read a little harder. Below is the info for the Westies. WEST HIGHLAND WHITE TERRIER Body, back and sides only #5 Head and tail scissors Ear tips #10 or #15 Stomach #10 Pads #15 Hello nicestman77, thanks for the info, now could you give me the run-down for Westies..pet trim (I'm sorry I wasn't clear in my post, I meant I'd bought them from a Biche-person and I am a Westie-person) I would need the sizes for their short bits and long bits. Am I correct in thinking that the black comb-like thingos are called 'blades' Does it matter what the teeth (silver cutting teeth) are? mine have 30-15-10 engraved in them. Can you suggest a person I can send the cutting teeth to...would they sharpen them without having to send the whole handset. That may do with the 20 questions at the moment!

Hi there Boronia,if the blade cut first of when you got the clipper with the same blades,and you have clippered a few coats,it is most likely they need a touch-up. When using the plastic combs it is best to use a number #30 blade,the fur doesn't get between the blade and comb so easy. Below is some info on the correct blades required to do Bishons,I hope this helped you. nicestman77. BICHON "Show" trim, 1" coat #30 & 1 1/4" UC Pet trim, short #4F Matted strip down #7F or #5F Stomach #10 Pads #15

It could be something silly, most of the times it is, but if I can't get it going, the service is FREE. I enjoy a challenge. Send your home phone number, so I can Skype you and chat, if there are any decisions to make. I look forward to receiving them.

Next time the Andis cord breaks, go down to the hardware, and buy a new 2 core cord, and get away from that Andis cord, and it won't happen again.

Understand how its done. Friends were not happy with results from several places & tried this. They have backgrounds in engineering, metal work & glass making so their technique is not just from a book or the net. Takes a bit of time & not for the ham fisted or everyone I know but I am going to try it. If you are successful sharpenig your A5 clipper blades on a rock/grindstone??? whatever, so they are crisp at cutting, I invite you to teach me how you did it, and I can then throw my $20.000 worth of sharpening equipment out, as I mustn't have needed it in the first place. And all that I have learnt, and exerienced for the past 30 plus years was for nothing.

The blade prices on Feather Edge are not that great, if fact there are cheaper deals around, give ClipperWorld's prices a look at. http://www.clipperworld.com.au/shop/index....Cat&catId=9

I think in the older days, Oster was the best at the time, it had not much to compete with. But it is time to realize that Oster are not going to improve the quality of the clipper, Oster motors are old technology. Wahl motors are different in which they don't get hot(modern), if Wahl/Andis can make clippers that doesn't get hot Oster should be able to. I agree with poodle3081 comments. It all comes down the efficiency of the blade.