Sandra777

I have a bitch who can't eat beef (gets hot spots and itchies) but is fine with roo mince/meat but can't eat roo bones (can eat other bones) so go figure that one! If it suits the dog (keeps weight, no allergies) and is better for your pocket then it's got to be a good deal IMO!

Please be careful with this advice, as I'm sure you probably know chocolate can be toxic to dogs, and different dogs can be more sensitive than others to the effects - so even if you get away with it with one dog, others might not be so lucky. Which is no doubt why I said the dog NEVER had it at any other time and said the dog was bigger than the OP's dog so this probably wasn't a suitable reward for the OP's dog. Incidentally - the rate you have given is actually a fairly large amount of chocolate when given as a reward (as opposed to pinched out of the cupboard). Not sure anyone would give that much of any reward to a dog in a training setting - well I certainly wouldn't

Problem is rolling in dead things is generally a lot more interesting to any dog than some treats They sometimes figure out that even if there's nothing really exciting about what they're doing right at this moment, you calling them doesn't mean much because you'll still be there in a few minutes anyway.....so does this give you an idea? Set him up - call him when he's doing a low-to-medium distraction and if he doesn't respond promptly, hide. (hence, set him up - choose a place where you can hide behind trees or bushes) You have to be quick and you have to be good though - if he decides it's a game you defeat the whole purpose of the exercise. Another possibility is lie down on the ground where he can see you. This is usually gets them curious (although watch out for other dogs, they'll probably come running too) One that often works is call him, then if he doesn't come turn and run (or walk briskly) away from him. Call him as you move away as he will hear that you are moving away. Any of the above three 'tricks' needs a big bonus jackpot prize if they make him respond quickly - a toy or treat that he otherwise never gets. I've used people chocolate as a bonus prize for one dog but that was bigger than a JRT so maybe not suitable for one so small.

I would say it was normal for a dog to take a "good prize" away and eat it in peace. Feed him in an enclosed area and practice whatever you did before for swapping one thing for another. He's older now and possibly decided the rules don't apply to all things at all times. You can still hold on to the food but swapping it for something better is probably a more productive thing to teach him. I'm not a big believer in taking things off dogs just to prove you can but I am a big believer in being able to in case of an emergency, and also not making their food/food bowl something they need to guard from anyone.

I am assuming this is an issue because you want to supervise him eating the bone. Feed him somewhere he can't get out of your sight - his crate, laundry with baby gate up, enclosed porch....

The word you want to use is ADAPT not evolve.

Has she been confined downstairs while house training was happening? Dogs don't generalise very well, perhaps she doesn't know how to behave in this whole new place? Has she been to other people's houses? How does she behave there? If she jumps then bails I would suspect the stairs do worry her a bit - any way you can tape down some cheap carpet over them for a while? Take her upstairs on leash and just sit with her for a while, then take her back downstairs. Don't expect her to do anything upstairs she hasn't already done downstairs. Feed her upstairs?

haha, I'm not going make a stand on the topic of whether are dogs carnivores or not and my bad for using that phrase - "chemical processed food"..... I should have it written as "food that are chemically processed". Which I meant by foods having chemicals which can be used as artificial preservatives, in the extraction method, to blend with other ingredients etc. So you do mean the human body has evolved to process artifical preservatives in modern food? Sorry, this is totally untrue. Modern artifical preservatives have been with us for an extremely short time - less than 50 years in main stream use. This is two generations in human terms and there is absolutely no way humans have evolved to process artifical preservatives in two generations. Absolutely untrue. And what about people in "primitive" societies who are lucky enough not to have a maccas just around the corner - I assume they have evolved along with us despite their lack of need to do so? I dunno why you would disagree with this unless you have seen kangaroos or wombats (or any animals) are like us, feeling ok after drinking coca cola or beer. Beer is not a modern creation - it has been around for an extremely long time. Yes, methods have changed and not for the better but the actual fermentation process is extremely old. As for "feeling OK" after drinking Coke, Maccas or any of the other modern preservative packed food - er, no I don't think so. MOST people are actually very badly affected by such things but don't realise how badly it is affecting their wellbeing until they stop eating or drinking highly processed/preservative packed foods & drinks Yes we can eat and drink the stuff but it's not what we have evolved to eat/drink. Dogs can "survive" on all the same stuff as we can, but it's no better for them than it is for us. Washroom - I assume you mean toilet to poop? It totally depends on the education of the doctor and the diet of the person. Once every second day is considered perfectly normal in some circles (high protein low carb people). Toilet to pee, well that one would depend on how much you drink, the temperature and whether or not you have had kids

Can't help you as I'm still sorting it myself - but first stop would be your regular vet... if they won't offer you a deal on a litter of pups then take your business elsewhere!

Wish everyone was as gentle and thoughtful with a check chain as both of you. I HATE seeing babies (or adults for that matter) on check chains in the hands of idiots - they turn them into choke chains in an instant. If the dog/pup responds and isn't distressed then use what works would be my way of thinking! Never heard of snake chains being a no no for puppies though, got to wonder about the reasoning behind it?

I am assuming that by "chemical processed food" you mean the differences between carbohydrates, proteins and fats? If so, would it not be simpler to say humans are omnivores and dogs are carnivores? If you mean that the human body has evolved to consume the modern processed foods, then I totally disagree Obviously you are not someone who follows a low carb high protein diet...........

Just paid $50 from The Vet Shed - postage is extra depending on what else you order.

Cat food is fine for dogs, dog food is not fine for cats ------ well as "fine" as any canned food can be Try some of the more expensive cat ones, especially ones with fish in them. Try warming the food slightly Mix cheaper canned foods with sardines to make it a bit better. Quite often the cheaper foods have a stronger smell which attracts some dogs - but maybe not fussy little people :-)

A grooming block will help, $5 from a show van.

Google Alaskan Malamute & Siberian Husky Social Club - they have weightpull every month at the Oakley Obedience grounds in Brissie. Probably not in summer though You'll find plenty of Amstaff & Staff people there - we usually outnumber the Mals & Sibes

:p Tell me about it. What breed Sandra777?? Staffords. Last time China had 4, but Mouse is from a litter of 8; I'm not hoping for a baker's dozen for chrissy thanks....

Could someone send me the puppy fairy please, after all our bad luck I think it's my turn.... Both bitches finally decided to co-ordinate their watches, Mouse is in season 3 weeks late and China a month early. Oh bother puppies for Christmas

Obviously you need to be guided by the specialist and his/her assessment of the risks but for a Maltese 13 isn't that old so if everything else is fine with your dog I would be thinking about having the surgery IF there was a good chance it would solve the problem. Realistically he could live for another 4 or 5 years. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Really? how weird, How did we all measure up :D Not arguing that this isn't so in practice, but the theory and classification of a breed is based on the cephalic index not jaw length or bite. Not saying it's right just saying that is the way the classification works and using that classification for Staffords is simply wrong, not because of bite but because of skull dimension ;) Is it possible to shorten the muzzle without increasing the skull dimensions though? What I mean is if you had a Stafford with a really short muzzle (sorry, stupid me, what do I mean if :p ) wouldn't it's skull automatically shorten and increase it's ratio and the dog would come under the brachy classification. Yep, I realise it's intended to classify a breed as a whole not individual dogs. In other words, you shorten the muzzle means you increase the skull width/length ratio - this is the way nature works - same amount of material crammed into a whole new space. Yes, skull diameter = height is a very old measurement used as a guide to the size and proportions wanted. First mentioned in Beilby's books way back in the dark ages

I wouldn't have a male puppy neutered until he was full grown - closer to 12 months than 6 for a smaller breed. Physically it is possible to have a male pup neutered at 7 or 8 weeks old but it's individual choice as to whether this is a good thing or not. I would suggest google and look at the pros and cons in addition to what is said on here. His retained testicles may come down yet, has the breeder shown you what to do to help the situation? If they don't come down they are at risk of becoming cancerous, but you have a long-ish lead time on this and it won't happen in the next few months. His neutering op will also be more expensive and difficult to retrieve the retained testicles (more along the lines of a spay than a castration.

The bite is not the relevant part - the definite of Brachy is as I have given. Perhaps it would be more useful to constantly remind people the breed is NOT a brachy one so the overdone look is incorrect. Yep Ellz, would be quite happy with head = height at withers gives a guide to balance PLUS the height/weights given in the standard gives another guide to the balance wanted, even though many breeders seem to think the height-weight ratio is irrelevant. Precise measurements don't work in nature, so being pedantic is a waste of time but the ratio gives a very clear and simple picture of the sort of dog that is described in the standard. Balanced for a Stafford, not balanced for a Whippet or Rottweiler!

I would question whether the Stafford is meant to be a brachycephalic breed though. IMO the breed has been altered by some breeders to make it borderline Brachy but is it actually meant to be one, personally I don't believe so. The definition of a Brachy breed is a breed with a cephalic index of more than 80. The cephalic index is the ratio between the breadth and length of the head, calculated as 100 times the maximum breadth of the head, measured at the greatest diameter divided by the maximum length. I'll try some measuring tonight

How much does she weigh? Did the rescue people not give you any info about how much she was eating? What sort of food are you feeding? If you're feeding raw food then a puppy should get approximately 10% of it's body weight every day. If you're feeding dry food then the feeding instructions should be on the side of the bag, but most are between 10% & 30% overstated. As a guide her tummy should be firm but not taut or drum like after a feed. Don't be conned into giving her too much, it can do a lot of harm and cause problems if a young pup regularly gorges - once or twice don't worry! Three or four small feeds a day works best for most pups Tired - well she's had a big day with lots of excitement. Just wait until tomorrow!

I've got one like that. Mouse (Stafford) just walks backwards and forwards from where-ever I'm sitting to the door, stares at the door and comes back - which is really helpful when I'm in the office because I can't see the door so don't know if she's going to lie down on her bed or going to the door. After several times she will poke me with her nose, sigh and go back to the door and I finally get the message. If she'd just wait by the door and make some sort of noise it'd help!

Extra supplies which they will not be paying for. Sorry but I disagree completely with donating goods or money to the SPCA for these dogs when all their expenses are going to be met by an agency other than the SPCA. Practical help - go for it but even volunteer groomers I would think twice about since surely this cost will be paid for for those requiring it. As it would probably get the dogs groomed and comfortable more quickly then perhaps yes but not with the thought that otherwise it won't happen at all.