dancinbcs

A copy of my reply to the thread about using someone else's prefix. It applies to this thread as well because it is how I have managed to keep breeding with very limited numbers: I have done this successfully several times. Several litters under my prefix have been raised by the bitches owners, under my supervision. Some have been bitches I bred and others in the past were main registered bitches (before limit was even thought of) from breeders who were happy for them to do whatever they wanted with the bitch. If the bitch a was good enough and suited one of my dogs I was happy to negotiate breeding a litter with the owners. Personally, I don't like the idea of taking a bitch away from her owner to whelp and raise a litter and some owners love the chance to raise a litter with a lot of help and encouragement. I prefer the owner to take all the risks with their own bitch, including the financial ones, that are all carefully explained first. Then I lease the the bitch on paper, organise the mating, attend the whelping, run back and forth advising on the rearing, find buyers, register the litter, provide puppy notes and find buyers for them. With a couple of people, I have even put my prefix in dual names, so they could have their name on the litter as well. Some people just have the one litter, keep a puppy and put the whole thing down to experience. Others go on to become breeders themselves, get hooked on showing their new baby and end up taking out their own prefix. I have started a few breeders off this way. Most people don't know if they want to be breeders until they have experienced raising a litter. After that they are either keen to become breeders, or never want to do it again. This system has worked fine for me because I only have room for a small number of dogs and don't have time to breed very often. Letting others use my prefix has let me keep the prefix going, allowed me to have some very successful show dogs under my prefix and started off some other now keen exhibitors and breeders. Because my intention is never financial gain and I only do it for litters I believe are worthwhile, I have never had a problem with these arrangements. Surprisingly, I have never needed a written agreement either. So yes, it can work if the bitch owner is prepared for all possible outcomes and is prepared to follow the instructions of whoever is mentoring them and providing the prefix.

Cattle dogs are bred to have a hard bite. They need it if they are working rough cattle. They are also known for being prone to biting anyone other than their family in certain circumstances especially if they are guarding a family member. Good socialisation and training can make them wonderful dogs but it would be a very brave or stupid person that would threaten the owner of a Cattle Dog in that dog's presence. Having said that it is very unusual for them to "attack" as if they mean to really injure or kill anyone. When they bite it is usually just one hard bite that could do a bit of damage on the fragile skin of someone elderly. If this was just one hard bite, then working with an experienced trainer could find out why it happened and how to prevent it ever happening again. If however it was a serious completely unprovoked attack with multiple bites then I would not hesitate to pts. If the dog is pts they should get an autopsy because things like brain tumours can cause dogs to suddenly attack, out of character. Most owners never opt for the autopsy so we really have no idea how common these types of illnesses are in unprovoked dog attacks.

We add shavings to it before wrapping in newspaper and putting it in the bin. The shavings stop the pong in the bin. If I had more dogs I would get a worm farm though.

Private trainer if you can find one, even if it is by phone consult. Also desexing the dog should help the situation. Also a full vet check would be a good idea to see if her has any sore spots or pain that would be making him cranky. Of course he thinks he is above your daughter. He is a large adult dog and she is a small baby. Letting her climb over the dog is just asking for trouble and very dangerous if she thinks it is ok to do that to a dog. That places her in a position of making the dog submit to her and he has obviously decided that it is time he asserted himself and put her in her place (from his point of view). I don't believe any dog sees children as above them in rank until the children reach about 5 years old and are old enough to act like adults do around the dog. ie. giving commands, rewarding the dog, controlling it on a lead. Up until then some dogs are tolerant of babies and toddlers like they would be of puppies until they decide enough is enough. I have seen dogs put up with anything from kids until the children reach about 2-3, then the dog decides they should be old enough to treat it better and starts reacting to inappropriate behaviour from the children. Don't know how dog savvy your OH is but they needs to learn to read the dog. There was probably a warning sign there that was missed. In this case it is a bit odd that the dog reacted when seemingly not challenged so you need to ensure that the dog is never alone with your daughter. Try to keep her above him when they are together. eg: keep her up on the lounge and the dog on the floor to avoid him standing over her. Do not let her poke, prod or do anything to the dog other than patting him and remember to praise the dog for being calm in her presence and never ever let her corner him so he feels like the only way to escape her is to nip. This may be a one off situation where the dog was out of sorts, was startled or felt threatened for some reason. It sounds like he gave a warning snap and didn't intend to bite but your daughters safety must come first. Carefully try to fix the situation but if it looks like things will get worse, not better then have the dog assessed and make a decision to rehome or euthanase.

I had my first puppy flown Melbourne to Albury because a family health drama prevented my collecting him. When he arrived he had thrown up and pooped all over himself and was screaming the terminal down. Not a good start for him at all and really put me off flying babies. I have driven long distances with babies with never a problem and even drove Sydney to Gundagai to deliver a puppy to a buyer who drove up from Melbourne to meet me. I always travel puppies in a crate in the car and never have any issues, no matter how far the journey.

I'd be worried about a GSD wanting to herd the roos and getting injured as a result. Voted for a GSP because they are a bit easier to train and live with than a Wei, but either would be suitable.

I have done this successfully several times. Several litters under my prefix have been raised by the bitches owners, under my supervision. Some have been bitches I bred and others in the past were main registered bitches (before limit was even thought of) from breeders who were happy for them to do whatever they wanted with the bitch. If the bitch a was good enough and suited one of my dogs I was happy to negotiate breeding a litter with the owners. Personally, I don't like the idea of taking a bitch away from her owner to whelp and raise a litter and some owners love the chance to raise a litter with a lot of help and encouragement. I prefer the owner to take all the risks with their own bitch, including the financial ones, that are all carefully explained first. Then I lease the the bitch on paper, organise the mating, attend the whelping, run back and forth advising on the rearing, find buyers, register the litter, provide puppy notes and find buyers for them. With a couple of people, I have even put my prefix in dual names, so they could have their name on the litter as well. Some people just have the one litter, keep a puppy and put the whole thing down to experience. Others go on to become breeders themselves, get hooked on showing their new baby and end up taking out their own prefix. I have started a few breeders off this way. Most people don't know if they want to be breeders until they have experienced raising a litter. After that they are either keen to become breeders, or never want to do it again. This system has worked fine for me because I only have room for a small number of dogs and don't have time to breed very often. Letting others use my prefix has let me keep the prefix going, allowed me to have some very successful show dogs under my prefix and started off some other now keen exhibitors and breeders. Because my intention is never financial gain and I only do it for litters I believe are worthwhile, I have never had a problem with these arrangements. Surprisingly, I have never needed a written agreement either. So yes, it can work if the bitch owner is prepared for all possible outcomes and is prepared to follow the instructions of whoever is mentoring them and providing the prefix.

North Richmond and Vineyard are both used by a very large percentage of breeders in Sydney. Both are very good.

I've seen several not show at all and produce litters of 7-9. Others look enormous and have one, or are just having a phantom. I always ultrasound to make sure one way or the other.

Don't forget to teach stand as well. It is the hardest command so should be taught first. My babies learn stand, then stay, watch, come, heel, drop, sit, wait in that order. Always do at least one stand to every sit and practice stay in all three positions, including drop. It makes them realise that stay means don't move, as opposed to sit still. A BC puppy will be able to understand all these commands by 12 weeks. Don't expect perfect obedience to the commands at that age but the puppy should have worked out what they mean.

Really, mine have always liked the clown like Gundogs. Goldies, Wiemaraners, Vislas, Springers, etc. They just can't handle anything that stares at them or acts agressively in any way. They have all been uncomfortable around Terriers and any of the guard breeds but absolutely adore the friendlier Toy breeds. My male at the moment loves every dog and person but has a particular passion for Pom baby puppies. The tinier the better and he is so gentle with them.

Oh, they'll adore you, but that doesn't mean they'll do what you want them to or care if you're not happy with them. Lol, sounds like most dogs I've owned! My keeshond was definitely like that. You obviously haven't owned a Border Collie. They live just to please their owners, do exactly as they are told and are devestated if they think they have let you down. The most important temperament trait for a Border Collie is their "will to please" their owner. I will not breed from anything that shows any tendency to being stubborn or strong willed because it loses the essence of the breed. They frequently out-think novice owners and it ends up with the dog training the owner instead of the other way around, but if you are smarter than the dog and know how to train them they are the easiest breed to live with. I couldn't handle living with dogs that didn't just do whatever I tell them to.

Borders are pretty snobby and prefer their own breed. Why not just get another Border? Otherwise they can get on well with other herding or gundog breeds but they don't understand Terriers at all. They often get on well with Toy breeds but a Toy breed would not be suitable to have as an outside dog. Borders prefer to be inside with you as well but can and do survive as outside dogs.

Please don't ever contemplate a Border Collie. You would go nuts trying to live with one. I love that my Borders can practically read my mind and constantly read the most sublte body language. Obedience trialling is challenging because you have to be so careful to not accidently give them a wrong signal but once they get you trained properly, it gets easier. From a purely practical point of view I wanted a medium size, highly trainable, multi purpose breed. I wanted a long, easy to groom coat without a doggy smell and didn't want a flat face, short legs, docked tail, a drooler, floppy ears. I didn't want an independant dog or one with a tendency to fight with other dogs or hunt anything. My colour preference was black, white or combination of both. Hence the Border Collie.

That would be my suggestion too. Would get on best with Maggie and you sound like the perfect family for a Border Collie. They come in a huge variety of temperaments and activity levels so you could choose a puppy that suits your lifestyle.

Not all breeds have a problem with entire bitches running together. With my breed hardly anyone runs males over about 2 years together unsupervised, but they often have 4-6 entire bitches that get on fine running together for all their lives. You sometimes get a personality clash between two bitches and can never have those two together again, but they can usually be run with other bitches.

OK so we did well with our odds.... 5 reds and 4 black and white, 5 boys and 4 girls. Dad was a carrier:) Glad they arrived safely and I hope you did the responsible thing and got a DNA clearance for at least one parent for both CL and TNS.

Single tank hydrobath, there's no rinsing happening here Tiny amount of shampoo involved though. Just wanting to know if the permoxin is effective when mixed with the shampoo do you know? With a single tank you just empty the shampoo water and refill with clean water to rinse unless you have a separate fresh water hose to rinse with . All shampoo needs to be rinsed out always. Then if you need to apply permoxin it should go on after the shampoo has been rinsed out.

Except for the breeds like Briards and Pyrenean Mountain Dogs, where the standard requires back dew claws, all other puppies that are born with them should have them removed at a couple of days. Front ones are routinely removed in some breeds but hardly ever in others. Most Border Collie breeders leave them on the front and I do not personally know of one BC that has ever injured a front one. Cut stopper pads are common, as are sprung toes, pulled nails, torn foot ligaments but never injured front dew claws.

Sprung toes are a common injury in Greyhounds and Border Collies. They are aqtually a slight dislocation and need to be put back by the chiropracter, then taped to keep them in place for a week or two. Rest is also important in getting them to heal right.

In heartworm areas puppies should be started on daily or monthly medication between 8-12 weeks. My vet does not recommend all in one treatments unless you need to treat for all those things. We do monthly heartworm all year round and use Frontline for fleas/ticks only if and when required in summer. Treatments like Advocate that treat every possible parasite are great if you have a specific need to treat something like sarcoptic mange as well, but most dogs do not need that level of chemical on a regular basis. My vet never recommends this for routine preventative treatment of any dog.

With very old or sick dogs I usualy make up my mind at some point, that the next bad turn, it willl be time and stick to it. Once I reach that point I take them immediately to the vets before I have time to second guess again. There is no way I could decide tomorrow or the next day will be the day and keep going until the appointed day. For me the time between making the decision and letting them go is much worse than after they have gone, so I want it to be as short as possible. I would much rather be too early than too late because we really only keep them going for ourselves. The only difference it makes to the dog is that their suffering ends faster if we opt to let them go sooner. For me the criteria in an very old or terminally ill dog are - obvious pain, unable to eat, unable to walk or incontinent (because my dogs seem to be most distressed by this). Pain can be very hard to detect though and I have had dogs that must have been in agony show no apparent sign. This is the worse part of owning animals but in order to enjoy the good times we have to be strong enough to know when the good times for that animal have ended. I have never yet had a dog or cat just pass away on its own so I have now had to make this decision for 7 dogs and 2 cats. It doesn't really get easier but you do get to be more sure that you have picked the right time.

Our vet receptionists are all vet nurses as well. The ones that have been there a long time are great but some of the new ones need to be told what to do. If I call to speak to the vet I always ask if I can either speak to the vet, or can they ask the vet something for me, or if it isn't urgent, can the vet call me back. By giving them some options I find they co-operate better than if I was to just demand to speak to the vet. They work on appointments but if I have a dog that they need to see asap, I just call and tell them I am coming, what the problem is and try to work out the best time with them so they can squeeze me in between appointments. If it is a new receptionist, I insist they ask the vet when they can see me. In a real emergency I would just go but if it can wait a couple of hours I try to work in with them. No point rushing out there if they are just starting a caesar and being breeder vets, they do plenty of them. With surgery the newer staff find me hard to deal with because I do not leave my dogs for surgery. I stay with them until they are knocked out, half watch the surgery and wait until the dog is awake to take it home. The vets and experienced staff are fine with me doing this but the new receptionists struggle with the concept. The last one I booked in to remove a mammary lump, had the receptionist very flustered when I wouldn't agree to drop the dog off that morning or the night before. She went and checked with the vet who said, "yes that's fine, she is a breeder and understands that if we have an emergency she will have to re-schedule or wait". Receptionist came back and wrote the vet's exact words all over the appointment book. Last time I booked a spey I did have to reschedule until the next week because the vet I wanted was tied up with emergencies and I was not going to leave my dog overnight on the off chance they may get to her at the end of the day or the next morning. Much better for the dog to try again another day.

The stupidity of some people never ceases to amaze me. Such an easily preventable incident and now there is a child scarred for life and a dog possibly doomed for being a dog.

Great. Now you are an established client you can access their practice 24/7 if you need to in future.