Jumabaar

I used to provide head collars in these cases :) The dogs were trained before being provided (therapy dogs) but because of fairly severe lack of strength/balance etc owners needed to be able to feel comfortable and retain control/communication thru the leash, as well as vocally .When out walking, the headcollars allowed them to do this . Yup and I am sure that it would have been pointless to use something that the owner was not confident with. Which you would have only know through talking to your client, not preaching them about the right tool for their dog, regardless of their on physical (and mental) state . Totally agree! And an inspiring trainer will get better owner compliance

A friend had an old dog with vestibular disease. She couldn't walk much and was clearly off balance. Hers was a variety that cleared up after 2 months. If your vet isn't confident about diagnosing these things it might be worth a second opinion with a specialist.

A good trainer should be able to take you beyond those boundaries and strengthen your weaknesses and provide the inspiration to achieve that IMHO. What about someone with physical impairments..... If they can't get the tool on the dog it doesn't matter how well it works for the dog it doesn't work for the handler. A good trainer does push their clients, but not beyond their abilities

I like that there is a variety of methods and tools for training your dog. It means that with research you can find a trainer that suits you and your dog, your training methodology/preference and if you wish to compete, the sport you are interested in. There are many ways to train every behaviour, even a simple sit. Yes, I do too, things are much more advanced than the choke chain days, but I have found many people like to argue with trainers a lot more than they used to about tools and methods, one recently came up with a trainer suggesting an Ecollar for this particular dog and the owner refused to consider one leaving the trainer to arrange something less effective when the Ecollar would have been the ultimate in what needed to be addressed. Just thinking back when I began, you didn't argue with the trainer, you shut up listended intently and did what you were told, I guess it's culture evolution also? You might also need to use a tool in a particular situation that may be perfect for the dog, but not allowed in the situation. Not informing the instructor of this, and just shutting up will be counter intuitive IMO. I go to an instructor because I need help, but if the help they are giving me isn't going to work shouldn't I tell them?? Also I have seen people that just straight out have bad timing- no amount of listening or following instructions manages to make a difference to their timing so I have seen instructors change tools to something that worked with both the handler and the dog, not just what worked best for the dog. You need to look at the whole package- dog hand handler to get the best tool for that combination. No point using a prong if the person refuses to put it on the dog properly, or is to scared to ever correct using it.... No matter how good that tool is for that particular dog it will never achieve those results because the handler is unable to or unwilling to use it correctly. So you go to something different that will have better owner compliance even though it might take a little longer to achieve results. Better some results than no results at all. So long as the owner has the differences in the tools explained to them and they understand the consequences of each one- the consequences may be that the training won't work- then ultimately the dog trainer has provided the service that they have been paid for.

Freight is cheap, look outside the box. Don't be restricted to your state. I already have a pup from QLD, have looked at a cat in SA (too bad I don't have the space atm for a kitten ) and I already know the next pup I get won't be from NSW either. As a breeder I would prefer a great home on the other side of the country than an average local home. Also these homes decided to settle for pet shop puppies. They decided to compromise on the breeding and support instead of compromising on time. I wouldn't actually sell to anyone that thought that was even a POSSIBLE compromise. I know people that rescued instead of going to a breeder- these are people that I would still sell to. So the people that went and got pet shop puppies- not a suitable home for one of my pups IMO. I don't support puppy farms, not do I support people who support puppy farming ;)

An email I received from a friend. Chilli would be at the RSPCA I am guessing- The writer of this is an RSPCA inspector so she would have seen the dog pre-shelter environment and is experienced. PM me if you want their details.

Perhaps you are not talking to the right breeders? Perhaps going to a show and cornering one (after their dogs have gone in) will get you better results?

That's very dangerous advice for someone to be giving over the phone without even having seen the dog. Ring the emergency number now. Vet nurses are not vets and don't have the training to make those decisions- they certainly are not behaviour experts. Your dog may be anxious because it is sick!!! Dogs don't randomly become anxious about nothing overnight!!

Who told you that Cosmolo Haven't you ever seen a dog take on more than it can chew, turn tail and run away, many DA dogs are fear biters acting on a learned behaviour when they charge at other dogs aggressively? But the difference is with a muzzled dog, it's ability to fight is compromised to diffuse a situation where an unmuzzled dog isn't. Your own dog muzzled isn't safer in a fight with a dog who isn't muzzled and is more vulnerable to cop a real hiding, for my dog, I don't want that to happen if unmuzzled provides a better chance at survival. No responsible owner or trainer would put any dog, let alone a reactive one in a situation where it had to fight for it's survival. Of course not, but an owner/trainer's resposibility can't control the actions of someone else's dog, a roaming DA dog suddenly appears charging towards your leashed dog, what then? How is it any different to being confronted with a DA dog when you are walking a panzy dog who won't fight back (a good thing I might add- I just tease him a little for being such a push over). One boy is just as 'defenceless' without a muzzle on as the other boy would be with a muzzle on. My reaction when I have both dogs is the same- to body block and move the other dog off. I know neither of them can/will do any harm so it is up to me to defend them. Not all dogs will defend themselves, as I have seen when one of my boys was attacked by dog significantly smaller than him intent on ripping his throat out- he just rolled over and tried crawl away while I tried to catch the little S*#^!! He did NOTHING to defend himself, and has shown no inclination to defend himself around other reactive dogs that have lunged at him. An off lead DA dog is a problem regardless of your dog- if it is muzzled or not, reactive or not. ETA- I would prefer to take the initiative and be the one to remove the offending dog than allow my dog to 'take one out'. I am trying to eliminate the behaviour so why allow the behaviour to occur? Also since the muzzled dog is on lead you have control of your dog and would be able to grab the other dog and use whatever force necessary to remove it instantly, instead of removing it, only to find your dog still attached and trying to keep them separate long enough for someone else to help. This way once you have control of the other dogs mouth/head there can be no further damage done.

Simple Cosmolo, the dog that gets latched onto is your muzzled dog which can also come with severe injury to your dog, why on earth would anyone want their own dog injured by an off leash dog when it could potentially diffuse the situation being unmuzzled and come through it unscathed Seeing a muzzle can also motivate some idiots to get control of their off leash dog, or at least makes them realise when you say your dog needs space that you are indicating that your dog bloody well needs space!!! (as opposed to the usual response that their dog is friendly!) In my case a muzzle can keep people away from my dog who is scared of people :D He has seen a behaviourist but I would still like people to give us space and a muzzle achieves that.

I have heard of a dog happily eating food after having all its lower teeth whipper snipped in half with the pulp showing . And the dog still bouncing around after having nommed a chain saw. When it comes to mouths dogs are particularly stoic, so if you see a small indication of pain there is the chance that your dog is in quite a bit of pain and just hiding it.

This is what I think happens- and its not always the case!! I think as time passes fluids will become standard practice, and pain relief already should be!!

Its not a matter of people being "worried about bloods" its a matter of vets wanting to know what they are dealing with while a dog is under sedation for a surgical procedure. OT but plenty of major surgeries get done in state of the art private hospitals with the same consultant surgeons who work in both sectors. I was indicating that a good doctor is pro active in making sure that their surgery goes smoothly. I know there are good doctors who don't do bloods but a doctor that does do bloods at least shows to me that they are slightly pedantic and thats what I am after when I get knocked out. And I have had surgery done at a smaller, but well equipped hospital because I wanted a particular surgeon. The blood test didn't make the surgery any better but it was an indication of the dr's attention to detail, as were the x-rays he performed pre and post op. And I have to say the same for vets. A vet that doesn't offer fluids for almost all surgeries is not offering their clients best practice- unless they are mandatory for most surgeries. Its the same as vets that remove teeth without x-raying pre and post op. It is not strictly required but know what you are going in for, and checking that you have got all the teeth out after is considered an extra cost for some, but to me is insurance that there will be no complications. Pre anaesthetic bloods and fluids are like insurance. It doesn't mean that everything will go ok, but if you had the opportunity to take it out and didn't, then have a problem you are kicking yourself after..... Everything is a risk game- you just need to determine the odds and make a bet. I am risk averse so make the safe bet whenever I have the chance to. I personally don't want anyone deciding that my dog is low risk and doesn't need it because I will still always take the safer rout. Burnt once= twice shy.

I don't think fluids fall into this category. There are too many benefits from them in my book and I think when I graduate I be applying to work at clinics that offer them as a standard rather than an extra. I agree with this. I can't speak for anyone else, but we do get bloods done routinely. Donatella- the other aspect of bloods on dogs is that they hide being sick much better than humans can. A human goes to the dr if they are feeling unwell/flat, but the same level of illness in a dog won't necessarily be picked up. AKA if my Kelpies don't eat a meal they get taken to emergency because that just doesn't happen- pins in mouths, broken teeth, bleeding into joint cavities were all ignored by them. So vets need bloods to tell them what the dogs are hiding. Also I have had two drs that required me to get a pre anaesthetic blood test prior to my surgery. They were completely over the top perfectionists, which is why I went to them. The dr who didn't do all the testing also did a crappy job on the surgery. Perhaps there is some correlation between theses factors? I also will be getting bloods done no my older dogs every year or two.

Thank you - informed consent is important - unless you breed dogs then being informed and not giving consent is out . Sorry I dont mean to nag about it all but we have a vet here who gives information which is "your dog is due for its annual vaccination" and refuses to give anything in writing that they agree its O.K. for me not to vaccinate. being informed does me little good if I cant find a vet who agrees with my information and is prepared to get me off the hook to comply with laws. Perhaps ring up Dr Barbara Fougere if you can't find a vet who will have an appropriate discussion about vaccination schedules. The clinic used to do phone consults and I am sure she would be happy to 'recommend' an appropriate vaccination schedule that would be acceptable to you, and thus allow you to comply with the laws. I guess while people who create legislation without researching its appropriateness researching vets will be as important as researching the clinical aspects of dog care. Barbara's Vet Clinic: http://www.naturalvet.com.au/

Vaccines all work in the same way. It is a problem here in Australia that we don't have the research done here but you can see from the Australian Veterinary Guidelines that your boy shouldn't need vaccinating this year. You should still pop into your vet and get a general wellness check up though and let them know about the 'recent' AVA guideline changes ;) I have dogs that attend obedience, flyball etc. So as a breeder I am stuck between a rock and a hard place. I overcome it by titre testing, and if the club doesn't want to accept it then they can also be the receivers of a whole heap of peer reviewed papers on the topic. I don't accept no for an answer when I have found numerous studies that support my stance. I didn't want this to be a vet trashing thread, it was supposed to be about education and sharing information. There have been a number of posts like ozwildflower recently (in here and in the health section) where vets have clearly been told the wrong information by someone/somewhere, or got their wires crossed. Please note that I have mentioned peer reviewing a number of times. Getting articles/studies that have been peer reviewed are ideal when dealing with vets, or other individuals in the industry. I have been shown 'evidence' by an individual on the forum for giving her dog large quantities of Ivermectin every three months instead of using monthly doses (she was in a heart worm area).... It came from crazy internet blogs and a few other questionable sources. Lets just say that it didn't end nicely ;) . I am all for research but you need to question what your sources are and make sure that they have the right qualifications. (This is advice for anyone thinking of doing their own research and not a reflection of the links already posted by others in this thread)

I will add that most vets are unwilling to go against the indications given by drug companies. If the vaccine has written on it that it only guarantees one year cover then that is all it legally allowed to be used for- Which is a big influence on vets continuing with their current yearly schedule. For a vet to advise not following the guidelines provided by the manufacturer they are somewhat open to legal issues if someones pet then falls victim to one of the disease. I think pressure needs to be put on drug companies to do the testing and change their recommendations on the packaging of vaccines. The same should be done with specifically testing dose rates in toy breeds. Most vets are open to discussing appropriate schedules, but most will stick to the packaging because it is easier to get 'informed consent' when following guidelines than it is to go against a manufacturers recommendation, thus their unwillingness. It also means that clients get their dogs health checked yearly which they may not do if they didn't come in for their yearly vaccination. And for some pets this means that little lumps and bumps that would be picked up by the vet and easily treated, go unnoticed until a much later date. So if you do recommend a more basic vaccination schedule to puppy buyers, also recommend a yearly health check with their vet!

Shouldn't all surgeries operate as a business? Except the Not for Profit ones???

My eldest dog grew up being minded by my retired grandparents when I went out. She was cuddled and cooed over and the apple of my eye- toilet trained after the first day, ended up sleeping in bed because she cried of a night (and it was my mum against dogs in the bed not me). She doesn't give a hoot about being left when I now go out and she isn't being minded. My dogs all rotate between me and my mum/grandparents so they all get time when they have constant human attention and when they are left during the day. So I wonder if it is just the general stressful environment that I introduce them too that sets them up to deal with other stressors later in life, like being left. Pups that are not stressed early on don't learn the coping mechanisms.

I have a laptop and usually am on the lounge so they just lay on it!! Either that or lick my ear which usually gets a big reaction.

Here is a link to an article on vaccination schedules that I found. For breeders education, but it might also be good for puppy packs. Recent Advances in Canine Infectious Diseases It covers vaccination schedules as well as talks about when non-core vaccines should be given and gives examples of different vaccination schedules (and discusses them). Most of the stuff published my IVIS is peer reviewed but I have lost my log in to check that this one has been. ETA- Published in 2000 but it is still relevant and being cited in more recent articles but I couldn't find a more up to date one that was on the net.

EEEEEP- just finished organising the convoy for tomorrow!!! Did some training with Franky today and I am happy to report she is now sitting in Heel again- except I broke her beautiful Fronts in the process . Oh well I will have it on video to laugh at- I am going in with a positive mindset and an aim of having fun. Abby has been rather neglected, just been building up general fitness after having her desexed (6 weeks ago). Good luck everyone- I will have two naughty Kelpies, and my friend has a Border Collie if you want to say hi!!

I had my pup (5mths) put on fluids for canine extraction- there is no guarantee that extractions will be quick. And I have recently had a 4yr old bitch desexed and had fluids and a pre anaesthetic blood test done. In my mind it also gave a 'normal' reading for her regarding her bloods, so in the future there is something to compare them too if she gets sick. So I looked at it as an investment. They are not required, but they are 'best practice' which is why your vet offered them

Go and see a specialist!! I can't recommend anyone but Dr Christine Hawke might be able to recommend someone (phone number is on this page http://www.sydneypetdentistry.com.au/) She is really nice and easy to talk to so it is worth a call. A good specialist will be as quick as they can be and have lots of monitoring equipment to make sure it goes smoothly!! If your dogs in a fair amount of pain I don't think you have a choice about doing a dental- think how much pain you would be in if it were you!

I have just desexed two girls. My older (6.5yrs) one after two litters. She had a section with her last litter so I gave her another season then had her done. I did her daughter (4years) at the same time who was a pup I didn't think would make it from her first litter, never intended to breed from her but wanted to make sure she was mature before desexing. They recovered together in the same cage at the vet and got to spend their recovery time together- I know it made it easier on the younger girl having a 'friend' there, although Abby did use her as a pillow a fair bit. They were both bouncing around after 36hrs. I think Abby my older girl did take an extra day to really get into the swing of things, but the difference was negligible. I had pre-anaesthetic bloods done on both of them. Abby will be going back to flyball 2.5 months after her op. She has just begun her fitness training and it has been 6 weeks We will be competing in Rally O tomorrow!!