Dogsfevr

What has the breeder all ready given C3,C4 or C5??

Will the dog have free access latter on or are they wanting it to be a permanent solution of using both options??

Thats how we do it here. Lack of muscle on large pups can be just as harmful. This doesnt mean over the top exercise but they need to use there muscles to gain strength to hold that frame up. Common sense is so easy

I would allow 2/3 months if doing it slowly. Some dogs can tolerate food increase easily & will stack the weight but most slow & steady is the best way

I doubt the reactions would be no higher than with the others. What does your vet say about the reaction percentage to C5??? etc etc

poms certainly dont need clipping off & it does ruin there coat encouraging the crap fuzz to grow back more BUT it should have groom more by now so i would be considering health issues. When you clip you clip the correct coat off & your left with the undercoat that makes them hotter & it grows back thicker . I do now off a pom that had coat growing issues after always having afull coat .I would be at the vet sooner than latter

in 25 yrs of grooming i have never used an arm or body holder,no need too. It wont be the clippers but i guarantee the way you are holding. I gather you have a mat for pup to stand on?? If your finding pup hard to hold then use your puppy collar. I would highly suggest you practise more on your holding technique before practising again.As someone who has groomed for years an insecure dog can play up bigtime. So practise the best way to without anything in the clipper/scissor hand. Our clippers are quarter horse power & the pups are done at 7/8 weeks with them & 99% dont worry. As a pet now as a showdog they are done weekly . The showring they are clipped,scissored & coat maintenance done every week. For a pet groom we suggest if doing it yourself every 4 weeks until very offay & then 6/8 weeks with just brushing in between. Most of our puppy owners who groom come back once a year to make sure thegrooming right & then they can follow the outline but all ours start after there 12 months & trained

a week geez thats a hole different ball game Weetbix normally comes out quicker the other end. Whilst im not a big fan of tin i do believe it has its place in the right situation & this dog could be one that will do well with tin mixed for awhile & then go slowly. To be honest if you have only had the dog a week i wouldnt be rushing to gain weight.It will happen ,i would be more concerned with settling the dog which will mean a relaxed dog isnt a stressed dog & the doing stress weight loss. I would doubt this dog has ever had premium food so it may be very foreign so sometimes using the basics & building up works wonders

The only eagle pack we have found stacks the weight on is the "power formula" You must own the rare kind that enjoys hills What else do you feed besides just dry?? I agree with other checking for health issues is always a good option & many fussy eaters seem to have tonsil issues BUT many can be fussy or simply not enjoy what is being feed. Pro plan salmon & sensitive skin also is good at putting weight on but all ours are feed raw meat aswell

To be honest i dare say your lack of experience is whats the biggest issue. It wont stand like a robot as yet BUT you must be consistent in what you expect. When pup jumps up which is very normal calmly but confidently place back down using your command word"stand" & just keep at it.If it continues to wiggle a firm but gentle argh is used & stand. Pup will stand BUT many have a tainty but dont give up during this stage or bribe ,Its your terms only . Also consider the technique your using & the way your holding ,if pup isnt secure it will panic We dont bribe any of our pups when grooming.it marks it harder & longer & they expect it all the time & there is no need too, Your

what diet did the breeder recommend???Are you feeding that or did you change it straight away?? Remember not all diets are suitable for all breeds

sounds very much like old age just getting the better of him We had 2 oldies last year who we had to PTS because it had all become to much for them to cope with plus deafness,blindness. I also say with oldies its good to see an eye specialist for a check up. We where lucky with our old girl during the yearly check to pick up the starters of old age ulcers which are very hard to see but very painful for the dog.Hers took ages to heal & really affected her balance etc etc at this time

I would head done to perth for a second opinion.I dare say your vet has suggested Murdoch??? I gather the meds are vetmedin or similiar at that cost & there usually when its very bad so not sure there

I presume the breeder suggested moistening it. We do with our puppy owners for atleast the first month.Little breeds dont chomp through like big ones Minis are normally hoovers & will vacum there food wiithout coming up for air. Dont hover about.Some dogs will eat even faster if they feel your going to interfere. You could place a tennis ball or similiar in the bowl to help pup to slow down

You never will. Diet is very much breed based & individual. Not every breed can be feed the same thing so these questions are what you need to discuss with your breeder . Many swear by BARF,I personally think its highly over rated but that is where everyone will agree to disagree BUT its important that you understand your breed first & any foods that are known to be an issue,again this is where your breeder will inform you. The most important thing is to stick with the breeders diet for the pups sake & if you believe it isnt up to scratch then discuss other options with your breeder. Many breeder contracts guarantee certain things on there diet.Ours does & any changes without consultation voids our agreement. Diet is like a giant can of worms

Belly band

Personally if you are buying a house in 6 months then why not wait till next year where you can train the dog the way you want & let it live the way you want. Waiting longer seems well worth it

I think in all fairness to the breeder you need to make some type of arrangements sooner than latter. To be honest i would be peeved if you waited till the pick up day & then decided it wasnt the pup for you because in the mean time you are turning people away. It sounds like you need to have a good family talk & i would suggest making another time to visit the pup explaining to the breeder your concerns.They will either be very helpful or may be a tad annoyed.For us personally we would sooner be told upfront so both parties can either work something out or decide that maybe the pup just isnt the right one. As a breeder i would hate to sell a pup where you had these feelings before it went home & would like to now all these concerns. As i say i dont believe the pup is shy or fearful but just a pup thats 5 weeks old & still doing alot of new world experiences.5 weeks is a big learning curve for pups & not all a courage s at that age. For the first time ever we allowed some puppy owners to come & look because they wanted to even though we explained its a "non special age" They told us which pup they liked & why /When they came back at 8 weeks they picked a different pup The pups had changed so much as expected but they couldnt appreciate this when told on the phone. Sometimes you just have to say no & then other times make that extra visit.A visit now is better than taking pup home & then returning it a few weeks latter & wishing you didnt take it,hard for the pup aswell.

What are your hopes with this pup & what is your family set up including extended family & social family?? Consider your lifestyle & be honest with yourself.If you feel this pup may not be for you & what it will have to cope with then for the pups sake aswell say "no" If you feel your lifestyle is very laidback & your not a great social butterfly then yes this pup could be very perfect once away from the other litter mates. Some pups dont thrive as a pack & do wonders once in there new one on one home. If you trust your breeder & they feel it will be fine once home i would be inclined to believe them as they would also see the pup at other times. As for order of pups as all breeders know we can all place pups to the homes we think best suits but someone always has to get that last choice & depending on how was first on the list & waited the longest we will give them the choice of the pups we feel will best suit also keeping in mind the other homes. I agree 3 hrs isnt fair when it comes to making sure this pup is the right one. Personally though we dont have people out seeing pups at 5 weeks.All pups develop at different stages & some pups at 5 weeks are just still grasping the whole new world idea & in 2 weeks time those pups can all have flourished in different ways & taken on new personalities & also have so much more confidence

Stacks of breeds leave home clipped & groomed ;) All our minis go to there new homes fully groomed so the dog has a chance to settle & there first groom has been done by someone they trust & of course they shouldnt go to a salon until vaccinated. It could be fleas although personally i would avoid frontline like the plague.To many dogs react to it. Mini are highly allergic to fleas so if it is fleas there will be bit marks on the dog especially in the groin area as that where fleas like to hang & the dogs will chew/lick there.

What Nekbet said. If you don't feel differently in a few days, return the pup. Every pup deserves to be treated as special. If you got the pup solely as a companion for your first dog, I honestly don't think that's a particularly good reason. If you only want one dog, only have one. I totally agree with all off the above. I think you also need to realise that when you do have a human baby your time with Maddie will be worse than the time with a new pup & if you cant share your affection with a new pup how will you deal with a baby. I love all my dogs & yes some are more special but i would never deny them the love they deserve because that is selfish

There are only a handful of breeders in WA that breed/show & heart test but there are stacks of BYB. Elzmere -Van Den Elzen Trescaval - J Logan Atarka - D Hicks There could be some others but these ones do health test Dont be in a rush to just buy the first one & ask lots of questions especially about health testing

We use goats milk. All our pups get goats milk & depending on each litter its part of our diet sheet with there early am/pm farex. Diet is like everything some people say feed BARF only,some say never any milk. As already said your not going to kill it & in relation to minis milk is no issues compared to say giving too much Beef . If the diet sheet is good & your happy with your breeders knowledge discuss any queries with them. Minis require a good diet in hegh essential fatty acids BUT there also a breed highly predisposed to pancretitis.bladder stones & high cholestrol levles so diet plays a vital role & what works for other breeds may not be for this breed

With setters the English & red/whites arent what i call shiney in comparison to the Gordon & Irish.All 4 have different coat textures. A flat coat is shinier than all of them. For me condition means the over all package & diet plays a small part .

I agree ditch the vet.I have a dog who is highly pre disposed to those types of issues & the first thing our vet did was rule out prostrate issues. Medication wise the only one that worked for him was Baytril & occasionally something else. I placed him on high dose cranberry tablets which work a treat because one of the other issue is the sensitive end gets sore when they urine so they lick to soothe & it goes around & around. Like already said finding a suitable product to squirt up there is also a good start. Warm salty water can work but something with a bit of grunt is better.