Greytmate

Yes. Spoke to an international student at uni last week. Keen on getting a dog and very excited about the pictures of poodle puppies (but only those in a teddy trim). Keen to get a dog, lonely student life without extended family present, but no thought at all as to what would happen to the dog when the studies were over. I encouraged her not to buy a dog, and spoke to her about all of the opportunities to travel and live abroad she would miss if she had a dog to consider.

If somebody allowed their dog to jump on me while eating, they wouldn't get to choose whether I taught their dog that I will not accept that behaviour. They would only get to choose whether to bring their dog near me or not. I wouldn't feel any obligation to teach the dog not to do it to other people, but I would make the dog understand that it was not worth the risk of coming too close to my food.

You would report the staffy because it attacks other dogs who are trying to avoid a fight. It is a dangerous dog, and after an incident like this, the dog should be kept under the type of control that a DD declaration enforces. Dog parks are a resource provided by the council that people can give dog adequate exercise under control. That is all they are, just a public space like any other. Owners like the staffy's owners, that fail to control and allow their dog to cause harm should be reported, fines and forced to keep their dog muzzled. Not all dogs are capable of such harm, and I won't stand back and accept it simply because the animal is a dog. The husky is not to blame for being rushed, bumped and attacked. Yes there are many aggressive dogs out there, or dogs with a lot of potential for aggression. People that choose to breed or own a dog like this have an absolute obligation to prevent them causing harm to other dogs and people. No lawyer needed, just witnesses that can provide info to council, and a council prepared to act to enforce basic laws that protect people and property.

I once had a bitch that went lame during a phantom pregnancy. The pregnancy hormones allowed her ligaments to relax and stretch and she couldn't even walk normally. I took her to the vet, and he told me what was going on. I wouldn't think it would be wise to give a bitch hard exercise in that condition.

I wouldn't be calling it a debate. I would be acknowledging that she didn't have the skills or experience to judge dog behaviour to know whether a dog was a threat or not, and therefore she and her children should not go near any dog unless somebody competant is around. That is fair enough. If she never gets her own dog, she will never learn about dogs and she will never know how to tell a good one from one that isn't. I would then ridicule her for suggesting that she knew enough about dogs to talk about different breed temperaments. The conversation would be over then, unless she agreed to be quiet and listen sensibly.

Stop going to gym and defer one of the diplomas. If you cannot do that for your dogs and you are unwilling to rent a budget-priced property or get somebody in to share with you, then perhaps rehome the young dog and have the old one put to sleep if you can't rehome it.

No. I would not pull a fighting dog off another dog. You can cause terrible ripping injuries. If you can get the dog by the back legs and flip the dog off-balance it may let go, but do not pull a dog that has hold of another. It will just bite on harder.

Whether the pup was sold with main papers or not is not important. The problems described mean that the dog may not even be suitable as a pet dog, let alone anything more than that. Hopefully the breeder will give you a full refund if it turns out that the problems are as severe as the vet said. The problem still remains of the poor dog having faulty hips and elbows. Money can't fix that, and unless the breeder really stuffs you around, you can't expect any more from them than just a refund of the purchase price.

Woody is short for Girrawarra Woody. Woody means woodlike or pertaining to wood. If he was really wood, he would be crafted out of limed walnut. Coconut is the colour of a coconut. A broken one. She got her name from a line in an Avalanches tune. "she's a nut, she's crazier than a coconut." But she's lovely really.

Woody loves to cuddle. He loves to sit in my lap and snuggle his head in my clothes, he just loves having his head squashed, and snuggles up really closely. Coco doesn't like to be cuddled. She likes to run up, bow at me, lick my face, have her ears scratched and then she lies down by herself.

White can't fade. It isn't true.

I wonder how many cubic metres of dog per square metre of space they calculate as being excessive? What a really stupid way to consider whether to grant a permit, given that many small dogs make a lot more noise than some of the larger breeds do.

I actually think ive seen it before in shops, might go see how much it is and then beg mum to buy it for me I'm pretty sure that was one of the texts that I used to learn to draw. I couldn't remember the name. You will probably find it in a library.

One excellent practice method is to use a grid - but to turn the original upside down so you get used to drawing what you see instead of what you think you see. That is a lovely picture Shaar. I think the back half of the dog being darker helps a little to draw the eye to the dog's face. The dog could be sitting in half shade, and that emphasises what is well-lit.

Many people overestimate their ability to verbally control their dog, and underestimate their dog's likelihood to follow its instincts when they come across other dogs in public. I think the comment made about the white dog may have been made because the white dog appeared to be bigger or more powerfully built than the dog that did attack you. It doesn't take much skill to determine if a dog is big and strong or not, even if you don't know about different dog breeds. There is nothing wrong with saying that some dogs would be more dangerous than others should they decide to attack. It is a credit to the nature of the white dog, whatever breed it is, that it didn't join in the attack. Or maybe it just couldn't get through the window?

I would agree with this. Just because you have found a vet that wants to treat, does not mean it is ethical to place this dog in a home. No owner deserves to have to watch their new dog live a miserable life. If you can pinpoint the allergy to something that can be very easily avoided, then the dog has a chance, but at the moment this vet sounds like they have an uncaring attitude towards the dog's potential new owners. Why would a change of environment help the dog? What is wrong with the environment and food you are providing in foster care?

None of the other attacks have resulted in injury so were not reported. The lab owner has not reported it as yet. I will suggest it next time I see him. I feel sorry for the dog though, I feel this aggressive behaviour stems from being attacked and could be helped by a behaviourist. But I agree for the safety of others something needs to be done. I will speak with the owner and warn him about dangerous dog declarations next time I see him. Maybe, maybe not. Not all dogs that are attacked become aggressive as a result of that. Some get over it and are never aggressive. A behaviourist may not be able to make a dog like this safe to ever be off-lead. I wouldn't want my dog around it. I feel sorry for it too, the owner knows it has a problem that causes it to be aggressive, and yet keeps putting the dog back in the same situation. Some dogs are not meant to be of-lead in public ever.

I was looking at pics of GSD, and if I was going to draw a GSD face portrait from a photo, this one might be a good choice. AUSTRALIAN CHAMPION Schneeberg Oso Enchantin A(2:1) Z(0:0) BSCL1 VGM Multi Ex Because this dog doesn't have a black face, it is easier to see fine detail. It is a good looking dog, and it is in a lovely pose, looking calm and alert. Most of the breed profile photos would be better if you wanted to draw the whole dog and not just the face. The background is basically out of focus, and so you can use this to your advantage. Draw all of the dark and light green shapes first, that will give you an outline of the dog. If you do use that image to draw, remember that image is owned, so you cannot copy that image and paste it anywhere else. You can only draw from your screen or print out a single copy for your own use. You are not allowed to use that photo in your artwork, you should not even trace the image, but you are allowed to draw your own visual interpretation of that image. Having said that it is usually best to draw pictures of dogs whose owners are happy for you to draw them.

We have a Mazda 6 turbo diesel wagon. We really like it. It uses a lot less fuel than the Falcon or Commodore, and has great performance. It will tow a dog trailer, but isn't quite as large as a Commodore or Falcon.

I don't have a drawing tablet. All our uni work has to be hand-drawn on paper. We don't use software to draw until we can prove we know how to draw by hand, in many different styles. If you work through that website (or find a similar one), that will be a great basis for your portfolio as the more you can show that you have learned to draw different things, the better your portfolio will be. I didn't have to provide a portfolio, but those of us that can draw well in our course have a big advantage. I'm studying Design, majoring in Interior Design.

I found a website that talks about how to draw. It shows how you need to use an artistic type of thinking to be able to draw realistically. It is very similar to the methods I have learned. Learn to Draw Start with the basics, and then people, and that will give you the skills to draw dogs. Not just to draw a GSD, but enable to you to capture the image of a particular dog, and have people recognise that dog, not just the breed.

I would probably have chosen a different photo to do a face portrait drawing. That photo is great because it shows movement, it's a good action shot. But it lacks detail, focus isn't really on the dog's face, but on its body. Combine that with the background that blends into the dog's face, and you have a very difficult thing to draw well. If you can find a portrait of a GSD similar pose to the ones in my signature, you will find it much easier to capture the face detail. Persephone is right, you need to keep checking the proportions against each other. As well as what Pers said, the things that I noticed are that in the photo, the edge of the dog's lips only just are level with the bottom of the nose, your drawing has them coming up higher and the nose is lower. The shape of the space between the dogs ears is different in your drawing than it is in the photo too. On the photo you are copying, draw a triangle between the outer corners of the eyes, and the bottom of the nose. Draw the same triangle on your own picture. The triangles should match. Then you fill in the smaller details, checking proportions as you go. I hope you don't mind this advice. The advice we are given at uni is to practice, practice, practice, don't erase anything, just start again. This is a skill where the more practice the better. But I think there is more to learn about getting proportions right and composing your picture.

Does doesnt it haha i think once i put detail in it, might look more GSD i will have a look at the eye placement. I was more worried about the ears That is a good line drawing. It's not that it looks more GSD or more husky, it's more important as to whether it looks like the dog you are drawing. Check your proportions of the space between the eyes, the size of the eyes, and the space between the sides of the head and the eyes. On GSDs the eye rims are usually black and visible (like the pic in your sig), where as huskies with their longer face fur can appear to have smaller eyes because the rims are often hidden or lighter in pigment. Drawing in the rims will give the eyes a different look, but refer back to your photo always for how it should look, don't rely on what you think a GSD looks like. I can give more helpful advice if you can post the photo you are drawing. Don't be afraid to try pictures of the dog's head at slightly different angles. Just practice doing line drawings, and then pick your best ones to render. If you look at the pics in my signature, the ones where the head is slightly to the side tend to look more like a particular breed than the face-on shots. I also think they are easier to draw, and often give character to a picture. If I was going to draw Coconut from that photo, I would draw the green shaped section first (background outline), then mark in where the other features are based on where they sit in relation to that outline and each other.

I wouldn't change that picture. It is a really good picture, even if it doesn't fit the breed standard. Your rendering is excellent. To start changing it now might ruin it. I would start again and do outlines only, using photos to copy. Start by drawing a frame around the border, you can use the whole photo or just a section of it, and then drawing in the outline only of the dog. You can draw one or do a few and choose the best one to start filling in the details. Once that is done and you are satisfied you have the proportions right (feel free to post here and get opinions), then start rendering the drawing, either in black and white or colour. Rather than drawing 'a GSD' any GSD, choose a specific photo of a specific dog, and think of your drawing as being of "Winkennels Borntowin GrCh, ADX TDX on 3/4/11" or whoever the dog is that you are drawing. Don't worry about what a GSD is supposed to look like or try to imagine that in your mind, instead, draw the dog in the photo in front of you. If the dog is well-conformed, and you capture that conformation on paper, it will obviously be a GSD to anyone that knows a good GSD. Drawing in this way will also allow you to catch the character of a particular dog, and that will really make people engage more deeply with your work. ;)

That is true. By observing people at dog shows and not interrupting them, you can get clues as well. The handler might be stressed, but how are the poodles? The poodle breeders that impress me at shows have dogs that seem to love to be groomed. There is never rough handling and the dog is relaxed for its long final grooming session. If they have other dogs there a concern is made that the dogs waiting are not upset by things and are kept happy. For a breed that is known for being excitable, it is a credit to those breeders that have a relationship with their dogs that makes showing stress-free for the dog, if not the handler. Contrast this with a breeder that has to physically restrain the dog being groomed in a forceful way, and who has other dogs in crates, exposed to unnecessary stimulation and paying no attention to them. Dogs barking or showing aggression. That might indicate that the dogs are not used to being handled, that they are nervy, or that the breeder isn't that concerned for their happiness. It might just indicate that somebody is having a bad day too. But I find it interesting to observe and see differences at shows. The dogs you see at shows are the potential parents of the next litters. Have a look around a show and imagine what sort of mum and dad you would like your dog to have and how you would expect them to behave.