Crisovar

Dependant on the reason why they have not dropped. There may be obstruction ie. they might be buried in fat or other fibrous tissue, the cord may not be long enough, the testicles may not be devloping normally, - lots of reasons. If the dog is a pet only, give him till 6 months then desex, if a show dog, hold your breath and hope for the best Some dogs mature later than others. The vet won't know till he opens the dogs up, (unless he can easily feel the testicle in the groin or abdomen), how difficult it may be to find it. If they haven't dropped and you have chosen to desex, I'd be getting a reproductive specialist to operate, rather than GP vet. Curious as to why would you suggest a Repo Vet? All the Vets I have worked with have had no problems locating and removing undescended testicles, it is not exactly an uncommon condition.

True but over here in NZ we still get the original formula in exactly the same bag. I can’t really understand how they can change the formula and yet call them the same thing in the same packaging Where are the NZ supplies coming from, US or Aus?

Many companies change the formulas of their product, even cease certain lines, from time to time, availability and cost of ingredients always plays a part. It is annoying but it is just the way things are.

Lepto and Corona Virus as well as C5

Have a look at the Petway soap free maybe.

The Joke is people who continually, topic after topic come onto a Purebreed forum and each and every time insult and denigrate the Breeds the Breeders, and what they do. If you find it all so distasteful and foolish then why bother to come here. It is OK to insult anyone that disagrees with you? It certainly seems that way.

You need to double check though, as I suspect she did not articulate the situation very well to you (and I find it occurs frequently enough unless you specifically clarify with them whether they are saying your dog would be covered for nothing at all, regardless of whether the issue was, say, a car accident wound - heaven forbid - or some other completely unrelated veterinary event). I would be highly surprised if it is as you understand it. Hi Erny, I was told this a while ago too. I was just looking at the policy disclosure for "Petplan" on their website and it says they do not pay for: "Any dog not vaccinated against distemper, hepatitis, kennel cough, leptospirosis (in areas where it is prevalent and Vets recommend vaccination) and parvovirus. " It doesnt appear that they are saying they wont cover for certain things, its saying they wont insure these dogs at all (further up the list it says they wont insure APBT's, any of the restricted breeds or any crosses of them or dingo's either ) Not sure which plan willis08 was looking at or if there are some plans that do cover, Petplan was just the first one I came across It was 'Petplan' that i was considering KBZ, at first glance it seems like good cover, but when I read through the product disclosure statement there are a few things that i wanted answers too, in there policy it states " YOU must arrange for your pet to be kept vaccinated against the following; DOGS: distemper, hepatitis, kennel cough, leptospirosis ( in areas where it is prevelent and vets recommend vaccination ) and parvovirus and any other vaccination recommended to you by a vet". So my question to the woman i spoke to at ' petplan' was, once initial vaccs are done on my dog, would 'petplan' accept titre results as proof of immunity instead of the dog being vaccs yearly. Her answer was NO!. What about the bit in there that states, 'and any other vaccination recommended to you by a vet '. It was a VET that recommended my last dog have PROHEART12 ! Proheart SR12 is not a Vaccination. It would not be included in the required Vaccinations one would think.

Being the lord of arrogance young man you would know.

I like the Petway range, the Aroma Care S'poo smells devine, and a little goes a long way.

Do you know what the difference is? Is it something that is not available in Australia?. Seems strange to me that they would manufacture under the name Nutro with different ingredients If it was exactly the same as that previously imported, I would change back like a shot, but am concerned at what the difference may be Nutro is a brand name they can make any variety of products under that name, how is that confusing.

I believe Jed was talking about rural working dogs. Why is it ridiculous? If they don't work, they shoot them. They do not all make the grade even if they are generation after generation of workers. The show scene is not on it's pat malone there.

The problem with that statement is that there are hundreds of greyhound breeders in Australia, most of which would not be aware that a standard even exists, and yet the dogs that they are producing look exactly like the dogs being produced over a hundred years ago, and act exactly like the dogs being produced over a hundred years ago. It seems that ignoring a 'standard' can sometimes preserve a breed better than following it can. Following breed standards is what has led to some of the more grotesque exaggerations we commonly see in some breeds. The idea that a one page document can describe the entire physiology of a dog is a bit ludicrous. All it can ever do is to provide a very basic outline of the dog's outward appearance. Instead of exact proportions being described in the standard, often they are very subjective descriptions, like 'wide', 'deep' or 'short'. In some breeds, each generation seems to get deeper or wider or shorter, with no regard to the original proportions that the standard was attempting to describe. There is no way that some breeds would be capable of performing the job they were originally bred for, because the way that standard has been written has allowed for too much individual interpretation, and the breed has slowly evolved into something else. I am glad that you find the works of so many people who developed breeds ludicrous, it says lots. It is obvious that you have no idea that extensions on the standards, discussion papers you could call them are also available that further explain the points of importance. Breed devotees have many avenues available to them to learn about and understand their breeds, the standard being one, and an important one. To know a breed fully you have to understand many things, some are not written, you have to see them, watch animals at work and put your hands on them but the Breed standard is still a very valuable and important tool. Some breed standards may appear simplistic, but the extensions provide more depth. Have a read of the Boxer standard, it is one of the most complex you will see and one of the hardest to fully understand even with a discussion paper in hand. Of course there is going to be variation in every breed, dogs are animals they not computer designed units that spew forth all the same, they are complex genetically and everyone sees them through different eyes and their methods and results will be many and varied. Some results will be bad, just as some trainers will never be successful and some lines will have no speed or no stamina. How many Greyhounds die because they are not good enough for the job, some trainers will never grasp that the reason for dogs winning is the way they are built as well as their desire to run. Yes, the Grey does still look the way it once did, and its success is performance based but it is very wasteful. The failures end up buried in great numbers. No use running on a pup that has the heart but not the body, how many useless litters are born because a trainer uses a winning sire over a poor bitch and the resultant pups throw to her. Do they look at why the sire wins and try to keep progeny that is built the same as well as having the same attitude. Many don't because they can't, because they don't have the knowledge. Maybe they should try reading the standard for a better understanding of why a good Grey can run the way it can. Yes, the same thing can happen in any breed when breeders have little knowledge and do not understand how to improve their chances of producing the goods. No method is fool proof, but you can lessen the chances of failure.

The problem with Canine Cough is that there are so many strains, the vaccines only cover a couple of them.

The more components in the vaccine the more your dogs immune system has to deal with at once. Most boarding kennels insist on C5 minimum because of the Canine Cough risk. Yes the C5 adds two canine cough components to the mix. The choice is yours.

Hi Crisovar I noticed from a bit of research that it appears that the warning re not administering at the same time as vaccination etc comes on the Proheart6 package but not the ProheartSR12 - I couldnt find any answer as to why though? Im just interested - do you know? I would have thought that the 12 month one was 'stronger' than the 6 month one? Maybe the 2 products have different ingredients? I just thought it was strange and couldnt find the information as to why I had some articles here on the difference between the products, no idea where I have saved them, but, I think it is the actually the chemical composition that they use to bind the drug then release it over time, I will have look when I get time.

Firstly I am the first to advise not using Proheart SR12, I would never use it, and my Vet does not reccomend it, however I have to point out a few facts. The manufacturers dosage information as per the enclosed information leaflet supplied with each box of Proheart SR12 in Australia, clearly state that the drug is safe to be administered at the same time as Vaccination or other medications. They advising not injecting at the same site, and that no other drug be mixed in the syringe with the Proheart SR12. They also advise that Proheart SR12 may be safely administered to Ivermectin sensitive collies. They also advise starting pups on the Proheart SR12 program at 3 months of age. As much as I dislike this product, Vets using it as above are following the Manufacturers instructions for use in Australia. I do know that the instructions for overseas differ, but the above is what Vets are to follow here.

Do you not read what I say???? I have said countless times that you need BOTH correct breed type and construction and ability. I have never stated drive is unimportant. I am saying you CANNOT disregard the standard like some peice of unworthy trash you use it as a tool otherwise you are breeding working mongrels. The complete dog has the breed type and ability is that not clear to you. And yes I have been in the GSD thread and said exactly that.

Can you point out to me where these Breeders are that claim this please. It seems that some misunderstand what some Breeders have been saying, if you do not breed to the standard you do not have a dog that looks the part, you may as well have a mongrel. The breed standard describes the look and the essence of the ideal dog, if you read it understand and it and know the breed. The dog that has the looks and the ability completes the package. You cannot ignore the standard either, it is essential. A saluki with short thick bone could not hunt, a Retriever without the desired strength of jaw and length of muzzle cannot pick up game. A labs coat density and texture as described in the standard is essential to its work in cold waters. These things are why we hold the standards up as important as they are. Take what you achieve using the blueprint and put that into action. Without the standard you have mongrels, and no breed type at all.

I would never base a diet on them, and IMO they are far too rich to be fed to a malnourished dog, or to a dog that you do not know the health and feeding history of. I have heard of people feeding them as a sole diet to young growing dogs to try and fatten them, I do not agree with this either. For adding that last little bit extra to a show dog etc they are fine, but they are not the basis of a sound diet, and are far too fatty for most dogs.

The recipe i was given for them many years ago was from the US and the woman who put it up made them for her dog named Satin.

I have fed Satin Balls to my own dogs for a short time only , but I wouldn't feed it to a boarder without consultation with the owners, not worth the grief if they disagree with the dog. For my own dogs I have had much more success with lamb flaps and chicken wings. I don't know what food you feeding your boarders, but smaller meals often sometimes helps with just a tinsy addition of something extra tasty to increase interest.

Interesting but let's not throw all Breeders in the Clown category Tony. Yes, just because a dog looks the part does not mean it can perform, it has a better chance though, the clever ones know that they need instinct, drive, talent, stamina, mental soundness and more. It seems that some like to poo poo the breed standards, but if you understand the standard and the breed and it's purpose then you have more chance of success.

A Mango seed sized lump however is not normal, it needs to be checked out.

It is possible the dog is having a reaction to the internal sutures, a call to the Vet is warranted.

Do you think that just maybe they stock what they believe works. That's how we work, we use and stock the products that do what we want them to do, products that we have good results with.