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Tassie

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  1. Winky is pretty proud of herself

    That is such a little dog thing to do .. standing on top of the A frame and the Dog walk to see how many people are admiring them .. and for the better view. @persephone, I think she was a little overwhelmed at the start, but then she was "performing" , I think.
  2. You've done a good job observing and recording her behaviours. From this, you could probably go a step further and actually maybe make up a sort of table with her triggers and responses in columns. This will be helpful for you, but also for the professional help I would be getting .. not just your GP vet, although lowering her general sensitivity level is probably a good start. Good for you for the steps you've taken to help her, and to protect others. I personally would be going a bit further, and for the moment, not take her to places where she has the possibility of being approached randomly by other dogs. I would recommend that you have a bit of a look on the internet for information about 'trigger stacking' to see why. Also for the moment, I'd keep going with your idea of sending her to her safe zone before visitors come in, to reduce her levels of stress/anxiety/over arousal .. it doesn't really matter which, they'll all have the same effect. You could certainly try the treats when there are arousing things/people/dogs in sight outside, but you really need to be in a position to do that all the time .. so that she doesn't sometimes get the chance to bark at them. In training terms, you want to reduce or eliminate the chances for her to practise the behaviours you don't want to see again. Having said all that, if she were my dog, I would not just be treating it as a training issue. I would also be getting some professional help from a skilled and confident vet behaviourist who is also a skilled trainer .. if you can find one. If you can be a bit more specific about your area (WA is a big place ) people might be able to point you in the appropriate direction. ETA I just had a quick look, and it looks like there is a possible (on paper anyway) vet behaviourist operating out of Murdoch Uni. But you might want to ask around and see if anyone has had success with this or other vet behavioural services.
  3. My Kirra's litter sister (B/W) had blue eyes . very rare for her breeder .. not sure when exactly, but definitely by 6 week eye check which BCs had to check for CEA before the DNA test.
  4. New dog won’t stop chewing!

    @HunterDoggy, have a look on YouTube for training ideas. I know he's not technically a puppy, but you can look for ideas under puppy training. Some suggestions .. have a look at Kikopup and Donna Hill. And you can grow the toy game you have at present, with encouraging him to chase you .. especially if you have another toy you can swap. Dogs usually like playing chasey games .. for our sake .. we should always have them chasing us, and rewarding (with play is fine) when they catch us.
  5. New dog won’t stop chewing!

    The chewing could be caused by anything .. we can't ask the dog (unfortunately),, so we can only guess. A question .. does he only steal and chew things while you're out, or while you're home and watching him? I guess in any case, I'd be looking at management so that you can try to nip this in the bud before it becomes more of a habit. If he were my dog, I would be buying a metal x-pen that you can confine him in when you can't actively supervise. I'd be feeding him via a frozen feeder of some kind after he's been outside for early morning toilet. Then when you leave, he goes into his x pen with his frozen food, and maybe a safe chew toy or a meaty bone. When you come back from your walk, if you can't actively supervise, I would be having him either in his x pen, or outside. If you have the time, I would be doing some training with him .. teaching him tricks for instance. Then when you go out again, back in his xpen with a frozen treat. Without seeing your dog, it's hard to know, but I'd be applying one of the basic rule of dog training … try to avoid having the dog rehearse behaviours you really don't want to see again . You haven't said where he sleeps at night .. I would be inclined to have him sleeping in a crate .. again because you can't actively supervise. At his age, he will get through the night just fine, as long as you don't give him access to water too late in the evening, and you take him out for bedtime toilet. Treat for when he goes to bed is fine.
  6. Potty training help needed

    Oh well done @koalablue. That sounds like huge progress. You're doing everything you can to help her and show her what you like her to do, and it sounds as though she;s really responding beautifully. (From experience, it can take them a while to be 100% reliable, so you'll need to be monitoring for a while yet, but you're definitely on the right track. In case you're not aware, the excitement and/or submissive dribble wees are not really under the dog's control, so have a think about whether that's what's happening, and then just see if you can make visitors coming etc. a calmer experience .. that will help her to not experience the involuntary dribbles. You should be so proud of yourself and your dear little one.
  7. Corneal Ulcer

    Yay for Teddy. That eye is looking so much better .. it must feel better .. and as you say, even a tiny bit of vision must make him fell better.
  8. Are Dog Parks Worth the Risk?

    So while that sounds idyllic, all it does in most cases is to limit the times and areas where people who want or need to walk their dogs safely on leash, can actually do so. People think it's OK to have their dogs off leash whether they have a recall or not .. they're busy chatting to their friends or gazing at their phone, and have no idea about respecting the rights of owners of leashed dogs .. if they even hear the requests to call their dogs back, they're just as likely not to do it, or worse still, abuse the owner of the leashed dog for causing a problem. Oh, and they have zero sense of time or place … so for them off leash time is all the time, and off leash section is apparently everywhere.
  9. Chemo Experiences

    Naaaww, bless her. She's still having fun "cheating" .
  10. A strange puppy Tale. (Not tail)

    So here's another opportunity to think not just in terms of what you don't want, but in terms of what you would like to see Tuffy be doing instead. This is where you could use your crate or your x-pen to help Tuffy be "correct" .. remember, make the right thing easy and the thing you don't want more difficult. So your meal times could be an opportunity for Tuffy to spend a little time in his crate - or his x pen - some confinement space in an area where he can still see you … with a nice tasty chew thing .. not sure what you could use .. but something like a frozen chicken wing or a dog chew. You will find after a few days, that as soon as he sees you all getting ready for your meal, he will start to take himself off to his "special place" to get his chew. Think always of "can I get the pup to want to do what I want him to do" … think of how to build value in the pup's mind for that, rather than rewarding him with attention for doing what you don't want..... yes, even though you think you're correcting him, in his mind, you're paying attention to him … guess who won.. Again, if you can be consistent with this, your smart little man will learn in no time.
  11. Breathing, drooling, vomiting...

    Another one who'd be calling the vet's number and see if they have an emergency contact on there. I'd also add .. keep checking that he's hydrated .. (check that his gums are not getting sticky ) .. and check the colour of his gums and the capillary reflex (press thumb or finger in and check the time before the pale are where you pressed pinks up again. Hope he settles down with continued cool and rest.
  12. A strange puppy Tale. (Not tail)

    Here a Link to a version of Susan Garrett's famous It's Yer Choice Game … which is kind of an expanded version of what @persephone is saying. You can play it sitting in a chair to start with .. which is easier, as you can anchor your elbow to your knee to stop you jerking your hand away if the pup starts mugging the food. It's important not to do this .. just to keep your fist closed, and enjoy watching whata the puppy does next. Jerking your hand away will encourage the puppy to grab at you.
  13. Bed wetting and other toilet problems

    My first thing (because I'm a worry wort} would be a vet check ..just in case there is a UTI or some medical problem. I would be crate training the pup .. it is very unusual for pups to toilet in their sleeping area. And I confine pups with an x pen, with maybe an area with newspapers or your fake grass, and a box or crate, when I can't be actively supervising .. i.e. watching puppy like a hawk for signs he needs to pee. I take pup out on a light lead, after eating, after waking up, after playing .. the key times they will need to wee .. and just wait around near the area they like to toilet. When you get success, reward the pup. It can be a pain to be watching like this, but it is really only for a few weeks. The other super important thing is to clean up any accidents in the house with a specially formulated enzymatic cleaner, otherwise pup has marked toilet spots he will return to. Oh, and if you do see him start to pee in the wrong place, quickly pick him up (that will usually turn off the flow, and take him outside .. then you can tell him he's a good boy when he toilets appropriately. How long have you had the pup? I'd be asking the breeder if the pups had a particular surface they were used to peeing on.
  14. Waking up through the night

    I'd second crate training. I prefer to have pups sleeping in a crate beside my bed, so that if they stir in the night, I can just talk to them and remind them it's sleepy time .. my current youngster, I just put a finger into the crate, she has a little nibble and then settles. If the pup does need to go out to toilet, then you can quickly pop a leash on, take him out, no excitement, take him to an area he likes to pee - bushes, grass .. wait .. be boring ,, tell him he's clever when he pees, then quietly take him back to his crate, pop him in with a treat. The advantage of having pups really close, is that they don't have the chance to work themselves up as they can if the humans are not close .. then the human eventually comes along .. and the pup has achieved company by barking. Not actually what you want.
  15. A strange puppy Tale. (Not tail)

    @Sunny1979, it sounds as though you're making good progress with Tuffy, and that you're starting to really enjoy him. Just remember, he is still a baby, becoming a toddler, so some things he will learn quickly, others not so quickly, and like a human toddler, he will sometimes forget things, or make not so good choices. Learning behaviours that we want, is an ongoing process, rather than a tick off list. So it's helpful to think of each behaviour as a work in preogress, that you will gradually be able to grow and improve. I'm thinking particularly of the "Wait" cue. (Notice that in modern dog training, we use "cue" - a word and or physical signal that is attached to a behaviour and prompts the dog to do it. We tend not to use "command", because that suggests do this thing or else ,,,,. It's a small point, but it does tend to change our way of looking at our training, and assessing how it's going.) So for the Wait .. think about what the finished behaviour will look like, then break it down into very small segments, and gradually build it up. So it might be "can you wait in that place/or in that position while I move away from you ...maybe one step and then return - maybe only moving say your right foot, and then back .. mark and reward success. Then you would very gradually increase distance, or duration in tiny increments .. not both at once. You'd also start in a low distraction area, and gradually add more distractions as the pup begins to understand what you're asking. So you will be progressively increasing distance, duration/time, and distractions, as Tuffy has success. The basic rule is not to make things more difficult till you're having 80% or better success at one level. You can also "yo-yo" around with distance and time .. some shorter, some longer, but with the average gradually increasing. The wait will also become clearer to Tuffy if you are clear and consistent in what you are expecting. If you are returning to Tuffy to reward, you will mark and reward when you get back. If you are going to want Tuffy to come to you, than you need to make that clear by using his release word to give him permission to break the wait. I use the same release word I use for permission to go out a door, get out of the car, etc. The biting clothes thing will eventually go away as he gets older .. again, you just need to be consistent in the interrupt/replace with a toy … every time. I think it took about 3 wees of that to get rid of trackpant tugging with my boy when he was a pup. And as for chewing things left lying within the puppy's reach … ummm…. I eventually learnt to pick things up and put them out of reach. … consistently.
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