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Tassie

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  1. I would just make sure she was able to be at what she perceives as a safe distance from the dog. And wait as long as it takes. We could surmise that the giant dog actually doesn't compute for her as a dog .. in the way your Border Collie does. One thing that can help is if your brother can teach his dog some quiet ticks .. like paw lifts, or It'e game where the dog lying down or sitting, is able to play the shell game and indicate which cup a treat is under...... that sort of quiet game, where the dog is not moving too much, and your daughter can admire the dogs cleverness at a distance. (You may be able to follow this up with helping your daughter teach your Border Collie the same game. THe might help her to perceive the Mastiff as just another dog . .... or it might not ... but in any case it changes the scenario a bit, and allowing her to keep what she sees as a safe distance, is a demontration to her that you indeed respect her fear and opinion. Just a though.
  2. Yes .... so very important. my last goodbye was a lovely gentle one .. ny 15 and a bit year old agility girl who had quite a gentle decline with lymphoma. My lovely vet had known her from when she was a wee pup .. one of the first pups when he took over the practice, so a bit special. We sat on the tailgate of my SUV in the car park while he gently injected the fluid .. and shed a few tears together while we waited to make sure she was gone. I was so grateful to him for that morning. And my goofy BC boy Rory who just loves people and cuddles, has been a comforter for the staff in my holistic vet's small practice when they've had a tough day. I feel we as clients owe it to our vets and the staff to make compassionate decisions about ending life .. I always have in mind what a wise vet once said when she was considering the end of her own pet's life .. her mantra is better a day early than a day too late.
  3. And here's a link for training the hot zone ... mat that pup goes to and stays on till released. Susan Garrett Hot Zone Game
  4. Naawww .. that's lovely. YEs definitely ... covered crate in your bedroom .. then if she needs to go out, you can just quietly put a light leash on her to take her outside for a pee .. all very calm and quiet .. then when she's peed back inside and into crate with a treat. door shut, cover over and back to sleep. Shouldn't be too long before she doesn't need to go out at night, particularly if you limit water a bit before bedtime. Keep the routine going, and you'll find she's beating you into bed. The bif dogs can sleep wherever they like without any worries about being disturbed. The crate becomes the puppy's safe and happy place for rests. So good job with the crate training. So good that she's happy in there.
  5. And a big yes to crate training the puppy. (Note ... you never want to 'force' your puppy in .. but you can have the best game playing things like Yer in Yer out .. pup chooses to go in crate .. is rewarded with food given for a sit at the back of the crate... pup leaves crate when you give the release cue (that you should be using for going out door etc. .. I use "Break" ) then pup gows back into crate to see if there'll be a magic treat .. treat in the crate, wait a moment, then release ... rinse and repeat ... then finish the game while pup is still having fun... So the crate becomes a place the pup chooses to go. My 13,5 year old BC boy still sleeps in his crate beside my bed .. airline crate .. door has been off for about 8 or more years, and he could go anywhere ... but he loves his crate for night time.. and is happy to use one anywhere, because for both my dogs, so much value has been built for a crate.
  6. One of my dog training gurus is Susan Garrett .. I take pretty much all her online classes, but for general training purposes, her podcasts have some absolute gems. For your immediate purposes, I would recommend Podcasts 14, 15 qand 15, and 72. You can find them here Susan Garrett Podcasts.
  7. Well done @Amazetl for listening to the great advice you've been given. Your pup has proved very good at summoning the staff to help .. but pup needs to learn where the boundaries are in relation to the older dog. I have a 13.5 year old Border Collie boy who loves his little 'sister' 5 year old BC)(--- can't wait till she gets out og her crate in the morning to play bitey face. But you wouldn't know how much he lovves her if you saw him telling her off big time for persistently getting in his way when he's doing some agility training. When she crosses his patience line, he falls on her growling and sounding really fierce. She knows that she's pushed him too far, and hits the deck ... only occasionally making the mistake of thinking he's finished with the telling off, when in reality he's only stopped to draw breath .. he will then resume the telling off and she hits the deck again.. and waits till he's finished. mind you, in his ccase the disciplining doesn't really work all that well .. if I don't do something, she will go right back to annoying him again. It would be worth teaching your puppy some boundary training/Hot Zone training ... having a dog bed or mat pup can be lying on until you give permission to get off. THis will help show the older dog that pup is learning some self control. There'll be some good stuff on this on the net.
  8. My BCs seem to eat grass for a couple of reasons ... occasionally they will throw up after eating it ... but most times .. especially when they can find nice tender grass. it really seems to be just for pleasure .... they are deprived at home, because the visiting pademelons and the occasional rabbit beat them to it.
  9. Well yes ... unless they have already created an ongoing relationship with the breeder and carried out appropriate due diligence checks (which the breeder will hopefully have done too.} Thinking about it, my current 2 dogs and 2 of their predecessors were interstate purchases, the current 2 I met in the flesh for the first time at the local airport freight terminal. The other 2 I flew interstate to pick the pups up.
  10. Agree - depends on the breeder. For one of mine, the breeder already made the decision and decided to put the dog on MR .. I think in the hope that he would be shown, since I had a mentor available that the breeder knew. No extra charge for me. For the bitch, it was a while after I had bought her . on LR, because that was all I needed. Again the breeder was happy to upgrade, and the only charge for me was the ANKC affiliate office charge for updating the pedigree .. very small or none .. can't remember.
  11. I have 2 dogs lounging around at my feet, who were originally going to be placed on Limited Register, as that is the practice of the careful breeders I chose, for pups who I wanted as sports performance dogs .. agility. obedience etc. I chose breeders whose lines and whose reasons for breeding and care with health testing had a good chance of producing the sort of dogs I wanted. At that time I had no time or particular interest in showing, so I didn't need a pup registerd on the Main Register, and I had and still have zero intent of ever breeding. As it happened, my male actualy ended up coming on the Main Register .. he had been a possible show pick .. beaten out by his brother .. and my breeder knew I had a mentor here who would show him for me if I wanted. He is now a Tri Ch and Neuter Ch. with titles in a nuber of other disciplines. My girl was also a possible show prospect, as a wee pup, beaten out by her sister. As she grew, she looked quite promising, and friends were happy to show her for me, so I asked her breegder if she would be willing to upgrade her to Main for me .. which she did. The girl did get her Ch, but I then decided to desex her as she's more of a performance dog. One value of Limited Register is that as with MWR dogs, the dog's parentage will still appear in things like sports catalogues, so that people can see a dog they like and then find out the parents, and chase up similar lines. Can't be doneso easily if the dog is just on Associate Register, and the lines are less likely to be fully documented and health test available.
  12. Some super work there. The Working Cockers are great dogs, aren't the.
  13. Sounds encouraging. Did the vet include an SDMA test when they did the bloods? Per my vet, this is a much more sensitive test than the usual BUN/creatinine that are done in the basic CBC panel.
  14. As has been pointed out, there are so many variables. To be honest, as a buyer, my first consideration is what breed/s do I want to spend the next 15 years of my life with. Then what breed/s would be appropriate for my lifestyle, living conditions and budget ongoing. At that point, I will be looking for word of mouth recommendations from people I trust, I might be researching on DOL, and maybe visiting some shows to meet some breeders in person. At some point I will make contact with a breeder whose values as far as I can make out, are in line with mine .. on breeding decisions, health testing, puppy raising methods, support offered, especially to new dog owners etc.etc. etc. I would obviously have given some consideration to a price range that I could be comfortable with, but it's certainly not up the front of my actual choice.
  15. If non ANKC pedigreed dogs are registered on the Associate Register they must be desexed. There is alsio an ANKC Sporting Register, which does allow for entire dogs and bitches, but they must be registered on a limited number of specified pefigree registries accepted by the ANKC ... the list is on the ANKC site .. but an example is ISDS registered working sheep dogs .. so there are many Sporting Register Border Colliws competing in agility.. All kinds of dogs compete in agility, but Retrieveing (except for a basic aptitude test) is linited to Certain breeds ... you can find the details on the AN KC website, and as far as I know, they must be ABKC registered.
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