Mrs Rusty Bucket

Community Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Mrs Rusty Bucket

  • Rank
    Mustafa Gold Logie

Profile Information

  • Gender

Extra Info

  • Location

Display Name History

  1. When I first got my puppy - one of her first jobs - when she got a little bit older - was to clear cats out of my yard. Especially the ones that had fights right outside my bedroom window. She REALLY enjoyed this job - waaayyy too much... so she'd be trying to get me to let her out multiple times a night to "patrol"... ARGH... She also liked to bark at anyone I had staying over (interstate friends) in the same way as your dog barks at your house mates. I did a couple of things that helped with this. I had trained something called "collar grab" and I also taught her to bark on cue, and to be quiet on cue (easy after you've got bark on cue). Mostly all I really needed to do was put her on lead (in my bedroom), send her to her sleeping spot (her bed-tub) - still on lead and reward for quiet and calm. Being very careful not to reward for loud then quiet. If she growled - I'd just collar grab and pat her - calming pats; ears and long back strokes... And I didn't say anything, ie I modelled the behaviour I wanted her to do. You don't need to be a super brilliant actor to fool a dog - just slow your own breathing and movement down a bit... It's super important you take the lead on scary things - and protect him, not the other way about. Protect him from scary dogs and people out and about - make more space - prevent him from trying to protect you - unless you want him to (maybe have a cue for crazy barking). And pay attention to the questions KobiD asked. The answers will help your trainer. Hopefully the trainer you've got coming over will be able to help.
  2. This is kikopup on loose leash walking... She's much more relaxed about her criteria... (playlist of videos) One of the rewards for loose lead is "go sniff"... The dog doesn't have to be near her leg unless she asks for that - you could have two cues eg "heel" for next to your leg and "with me" for loose lead (those aren't original to me). I use the word "yes" instead of the clicker or I just shove a treat in their mouth, and if I treat - it's next to my leg on the same side of the dog - if you treat in front or reach across your body - you risk your dog cutting in front of you and tripping you up (don't reward cutting in front). Maybe start with this one.
  3. The life of a "retired stud dog" might be similar to a pound dog - depending on whether he was an inside house hold pet or outside in kennels with lots of other dogs.
  4. you've only had him since Sunday... This article might explain what he's going through - just be patient and let him get used to you and your place...
  5. @Perry's Mum The form has this email address on it: [email protected] and you've put [email protected] Do they both work?
  6. OMG - I only knew of one person with that many Koolies - but he was so old - wasn't sure if he was still going... They were extremely well trained tho. Not sure about house trained. Probably not. Will they be available in SA - maybe we could put something on the agility pages? They're very popular for that.
  7. So if Pavlov looms large on one shoulder (fear) then Skinner will shrink on the other (learning). So don't worry about training a behaviour. Just sit on the ground and feed treats continuously. I can hear Bob Bailey echos TSD great post . I'd mix in saying "yes" and the dog's name with the treats too. Just watched one of my favourite dog training coaches playing a game with her poodle - she was having trouble with touching him and then catching him... so the game was scatter treats (yummy ones) and then tell him to get the treats and then pat him as he's eating... both dog and coach enjoyed playing that game. And it was a really short game like about 10 scattered bits of something that looked like cheese - for as long as it took for the dog to eat them all (less than 10 seconds).
  8. Maybe try using the word "yes" instead of the clicker and better treats - have five attempts at whatever you are trying to train and then have a play with him for at least a minute - and then maybe try again or just wait a few hours. Trick training is hard on a dog's brain, it tires them out and frustrates them - and you build up persistance in training - gradually - don't try to get him there all at once. If it's not fun for him - try something else. It is good to swap dogs too - a lot of dogs learn by seeing another dog do what you want them to do. My dog has taught a few to use the dog door and also that water is the beach.
  9. Maybe a better option would be a sort of once off deposit - eg pay $250 once - and if you get your dog desexed later you get it back (or credited to future rego for the annual rego states), or you forfeit it if your dog has an oops litter and then they insist on desex or another deposit (bigger this time).
  10. NILIF its yer choice The whole Tim Ferris podcast interview with Susan Garrett (and lots of games for training the well behaved house dog)
  11. sparkycat - you'd be happy to know that my neighbour registered her cat - tho I thought it was the same neighbour who said she never would because council didn't do anything for cat owners. Maybe she changed her mind for some reason. Frankston council in Vic brought in something like this - I think the breeder permit was very expensive - $250 instead of $50 for a desexed dog. A friend said SACA membership would get you an exemption from the compulsory desex - but if the dog is a mixed breed farm dog - probably not going to be able to join the dog to SACA until it is desexed (eg my plan is 18 months old or so). Friend also thought that mandatory desex was beyond Council legal powers. ie Ultra Vires. Hasn't stopped Mitcham council tho. There are no enforcement of Local Govt Act police to make sure Councils obey the law. There is ICAC but getting them in is more expensive and not as straight forward as calling the local cops.
  12. This is the Kikopup (Emily Larlam Dogmatics) playlist for puppies... It's very helpful on how you train and why you train what you train... and reward based (minimum fallout from mistakes).
  13. if the door is glass - you can masking tape paper or cardboard to it to block the view. Most important thing - careful what you reward. If you let him in while he's scratching - you will get more scratching at the door.
  14. This looks a bit like you just did to him what he did to the cat... Ie biggest meanest critter gets the biscuit. I would play lots of treat games or give and geddit with toys and food games - with just you in a space with few distractions for a bit. And then I'd see if I could get one cat to act as a distraction (chuck kitten biscuits at it?) and the play the give and geddit games with your dog. Work on distance to distraction... ie start off at a fair distance but where he can still pay attention to you (pay attention to how far a cat needs to be when approaching for him to give it the stiff eyed stare, and then curled lip... that's the edge of your envelope in that environment. And then you can stretch the envelop by playing games closer or further away. I also sometimes play games with treat rewards using chippies - if dog does something I don't like - eg grump at another dog or cat or human... I don't scold - I eat the chip, loudly and with enthusiasm. You still need to be far enough away from the distraction your dog can still think and isn't completely over excited. So your dog needs to think about you eating the chip instead of him. And what does he have to do to get the chip?
  15. he could be teething. I would be putting a little bit of vicks vapour rub on the bookshelves (near but not on the books) and i would be giving him black kongs with food frozen into them or a little bit of vegemite or peanut paste wiped inside. He's coming into the dog version of adolescence - how you treat him now will affect him for the rest of his life. He may also come into something called "a second fear period" where he's scared of things for no apparent reason.