Aidan3

Are the "ah-ah"+leading away something you have been taught to do? Also, when you say jackpot, but it's every time, is it really a jackpot? Continuous schedule is most appropriate here.

I guess this is where the link between theory and practice breaks down. Use a long line, give him a little pop, if he doesn't start coming back then reel him in gently. If he starts to come towards you, the reward is to be released back to the possum poo. This is slightly more savoury than carrying around a bag of possum poo to use as training treats

theory practice As much as I enjoy the theory and the possibilities it brings, it's the pointy end of dog training and most people just need to get going with a solid foundation using the absolute basics. TAGteach will gain popularity, that is inevitable, and dog trainers will figure out ways to use it with clients. Conditioned inhibition or learned safety will get some more attention, particularly for separation anxiety. We'll all start offering Treibball classes.

For a lot of dogs that is the cue to heel, and in many cases there has been food in that hand. A popular way to teach heel is to "lure" with the food in the left hand at first, then move the hand with the treat hidden in it. The dog is looking for the treat, and being rewarded while in heel position, with the head up.

From the second video I'd say she has more than enough potential. She's like a ball of clay, just needs you to animate her!

I think if someone corrected me and told me to do something that I didn't understand, I'd probably mope around too. Sniffing can be a sign of stress, also known as a "displacement behaviour" or "calming signal". Treats are fine, just feed a little less at dinner. Some dogs in training for service don't eat meals at all, all their food comes in training.

I can get 10kg of chicken or wallaby frames for about $7, depending on where they come from. Supplement with appropriate left-overs, organ meats (except in Tas, officially ) , and good quality dry food. Not strictly a raw diet but suits most dogs. One of my dogs can't have frames any more, too many operations for torsion (not caused by diet), but I get wings for her for $4/kg which is acceptable.

I agree, it always pays to compare how many calories a food has and some of these "diet" foods are ridiculous. Fat is essential for dogs, they don't need much carbohydrate at all.

I think it's mean to not give a dog the exercise it needs, and unless people are extremely fit, they will be limited to off-leash exercise which isn't always practical with every dog. Of course, no-one is actually "towing" their dog I hope

I have a simple rule when riding with my dogs - don't stop unless I stop. I taught this at low speed. I use a Springer (although I would get a Walky Dog if I were buying something new), with a very short leash attached to a harness. Sometimes I "bikejor", using a longer line attached to a hands-free walking belt. I have a length of polypropylene hose cable-tied to my handle bars to keep the longer line from getting tangled under the front wheel with the dog out front when bikejoring. A young, healthy dog will be good for more than 10 minutes, but yes it's definitely good to start off with short journeys until you know that they will be able to keep up all the way back to your car. Take regular breaks to check paws, toilet, water etc The temptation is always to keep riding at your pace because most dogs will keep up, but if you take a break you might find they are keener for a rest than you would have guessed.

I would normally offer a management tool to someone with an injury, in most cases a front-attaching harness. This offers some leverage, but I'm not sure about the extent of your neighbour's condition. A hands-free belt might also be an option.

This is something I have a gripe with and I'm always careful to explain why this happens. Whether it has anything to do with "trust" or not I don't know because I don't know your history with the dog, but dogs are almost always better in the hands of an experienced trainer for a few reasons. Trainers are skilled and rehearsed, often to the point of unconscious competence, so they know how to get the best out of your dog regardless of whether the animal "trusts" them or not. They also have almost no learning history with the dog, which means all those things that your dog's temperament throws up over time that would become a part of his behaviour simply haven't had time to happen. All dogs learn unwanted behaviours in anyone's hands, but a knowledgeable trainer will know how to change those behaviours more effectively. So there is no need to put yourself through the guilt trip simply because your dog works better with a professional. You are there to learn, so you're doing what you can. If you take what you have learned and apply it and rehearse it day by day, you will get better at it. Your dog's learning history with you will change.

I guess.... as long as she doesn't make the leap to the warm blooded feathery toys She's a Goldie, it would have to be a slow bird Mind you, my old boy caught a water rat the other night, but I think jumping off the cliff assisted his speed...

That's the beauty of it though! Drive satisfaction comes easily through her handler.

Moving the toy towards the dog instead of away from the dog.

Are you sure? Sounds like she would hate them, but I can only go off what you have described above. Yes I am sure, I do know my dog and its not like we didn't used to do it, it just became very irregular due to her pain and then things became like it is now. She enjoys going out, going to the beach, being with me and seeing new places, people etc and I can't do that with her right now because she is so reactive. I have no doubt at all that she does enjoy going out and being with you, but in situations where she is being reactive (e.g dog park, DOL meetings) she can't tell you any more clearly that she doesn't like being there than by being reactive. I do understand what it is like living with a reactive dog, apart from having one of my own I work with half a dozen or more every week, and I know that things that your dog really enjoys can be limited because of factors you can't fully control for your dog. But if you find yourself in situations where your dog is barking, lunging etc it's a good sign to avoid that situation. Every reactive dog is a little bit different. I can walk lots of places with other dogs because my dog is trained, but I avoid places where we can't get plenty of room when we need it. She doesn't enjoy herself if she has to "deal with it" and much prefers if we stay off the beaten track a bit.

As others have said, in itself it could be displacement behaviour but that doesn't mean you can't use it to your advantage in retrieving. A lot of retriever pups are encouraged right from the start, whenever they bring something to you, you praise to make it a really good thing. Depending on your requirements for retrieving I would begin with Sue Ailsby's method found in her Training Levels program at: http://www.dragonflyllama.com It is a good all-round retrieve for obedience, service dog training, and would be easily adapted for other disciplines (such as actual gundog work). Shirley Chong also has a very detailed plan on her website, www.shirleychong.com If you just want a nice play retrieve for games of fetch or training in drive, the "two toy game" (search for "two ball game" or "two hose game") is a good place to start. Be warned, although it is the easiest way to start and taps into natural retrieving drive, it is often the long way around for training a more formal retrieve.

Are you sure? Sounds like she would hate them, but I can only go off what you have described above.

Probably more than you wanted to know here, but maybe picking a few choice quotes might strengthen your argument? http://www.marthalakecov.org/~building/neu...in_response.htm

I hear it's alright on toast, too! After today's efforts I think I need to get cracking, spent ages bashing around in the scrub and found nothing.

Thanks ;)

They aren't, I'm afraid. I lost a full third of my income last year in bad debts that had hit the end of the line, in a large part due to the GFC. This was in a wholesale business, so the numbers are different (companies can go bust owing huge amounts of money, when they had been financially strong for years). If you look at most service providers they have ways and means of limiting their losses. It's either very small amounts, or they are taking deposits, progress payments, bank guarantees, or a strong trading history.

I can think of a lot of trades who insist on a deposit (usually the cost of materials) before beginning a job. Most medical services are required to be paid upfront one way or another (Medicare or private insurance). If it's a large amount of money at stake, it usually has to be paid up-front. Personal bankruptcies have been rising at alarming rates since the GFC. It is now seen as an easy way out by people with a stunning lack of foresight or personal pride.

Unless we get Medicare for dogs (won't happen), this is the way it will be. Every bad debt on the books costs that debt plus whatever it would have earned had it been paid (plus costs of collection). Regardless of whether the practice has an overdraft or not. There are only so many billable hours in a week and those should be valued just as you would stock. I would prefer my vet refused treatment than went out of business, I need them and I make sure the funds are accessible in a hurry should they be required.