Mystiqview

For those Brisbaneites who want to learn and share how about a get together one afternoon? I was taught by a master plaiter. I have had a look at that book "Round and Flat" and it does not really show you how to finish off leads other than by whip cording them or doing crown knots. For leather: How to choose your skin (for this it may have to be a weekday for a trip to Packers Tannery at Narangba) Round to flat and back again 4, 6 8 plaits and more Adding and subtracting strands and how to join strands Turks Heads (if you are interested) Belt Keepers Plaiting a belt Splicing in plait around a core and without Tension is important - show what loose tension and tight tension does to a lead over time Somewhere on the Northside. I have just quickly done a simple four strand round plait. I go from round to flat (for the handle) then back to the round

It is good sportsmanship to say congratulations to the winner whether you like the dog or not and the handler/breeder or not. Simple. If you have nothing nice to say, say nothing.

I have had matings take on day 21 and take on maiden first season girls and take. The reason I know, is I felt her about 35 days and felt pollups and had to abort the litter as she was too young. (Accidental mating). I have had bitches tart (and I mean tart) for 5 days before standing. Most of my girls have stood properly between days 14-18. The last litter, I only had four 5 minute ties and one fresh AI. I had 11 puppies. Get her fresh AI'd. You know then there is somthing in there. Otherwise, see if you can call in an experienced stud master to give you guys a hand

Honey is great. It has known healing properties. Also bathing with warm salty water if you have nothing else handy is great for cleaning out wounds and sores. However if a wound is wet and still mucky, honey CAN seal that in preventing it from drying out. It really does depend on the type of wound, its depth etc as to what treatment is applied. Offtopic a little: Poultices made out of bran and hot water and wrapped in a towel are good for absceses to draw out infections. Some wounds are best kept open to dry out, then the likes of honey and another great horse product "potty's white" applied to aid healing and reduce scar tissue forming and promote healthy regeneration.

RL. Hope it works out all good for you and your dogs. I have used concrete edging at my old place under the chain wire fence to fill in the gap. I got some from a friend, other lengths I bought from Kelvin Grove nursery and others from another nursary at Bowen Hills. Shop around for it. Found it good to slide under the fence. It is heavy enough to prevent most from trying to dig it away. It's also portable, so you can move it around to where you need to. Yeah. Agree with West Chermside.. Highway robbers. I live practically across the road from them, and even while I am entitled to go there for normal veterinary care as a local resident, I wouldn't. Even if I thought I may have had a C-section requirment on my last litter, I had my old vets at Samford vet hospital on standby. They are 24 hour on call, and still cheaper than QVS.

Do you want their house names or real names? Dogs: Mia: Abba song "Mumma Mia" - she was a problem puppy. I had to hand rear her from 2 weeks for a friend. She is also called "Turd" cause she was a little shit. "Faith": Have some Faith! she is also called "Ferral" or "Fezzle". She was a ferral puppy. "Blue": What else do you call a red head in Australia?? HE also is called "Boo Boo" after Yogi bear and his partner in crime P'nick basket stealing "Brandy": Another red head. She is lighter in colour to Blue. Hence Brandy. I don't like Rum and to call a dog Scotch sounds silly. She is also called "Terror Bear". Aptly named. It is good when you go to the park.. You get asked what are your dog's name: "Turd, Ferral, Boo boo and Terror". The look you get is always priceless. Horses: "Star": He had a star on his forehead. "Squiggle": He had a squiggle for a blaze "Maximus": some stupid Warmblood thing. You have to name boys after the letter of the sire. His sire was "Moselfischer".

The human quality ones? Can this be used on animals? How do you stop him from licking. Even with an ecollar, they still can get to some places. Doesn't betadine also sting on a wound? Some human products when used sensibly can be used on animals for a short period of time. It depends on what you are treating and for how long. Pinetarsal is the stuff I am thinking of. Pine Tar products are also made in animal grade shampoos. As for licking. Stick a bucket (elizabethan collar) on its head. But to be serious, would not matter what product you put on. Shampoo or anything, if the dog can get to lick it, it probably will. E-collar or not. Betadine is already a dilute of Iodine. Many people are allergic to Iodine. Also, many did not know at what strength to dilute Iodine. Iodine used to be readily available on chemist shelves. So Betadine was made. the dilution was done for you. If you go into hospital, what do you think they use to clean operation areas if you are not allergic to Iodine (Like I am). For those allergic to Iodine, you are given a choride solution. I even have condese cristals at home. Great in diluted amounts for skin condtions. You can also bath chooks and other birds in it when they have mites. Stains a nice brown colour on your skin. Iodine you can buy for animals at any vet supply or produce place. I came from a farm. Iodine is one product that is manditory for the animal first aid box. It is relatively inexpensive, has a decent shelf life and is good for all sorts of sores, cuts and puss things. There are other products like Centrogin Wound spray. Any of your wound sprays are either derived from cholorides, alcohol or something similar. Put any of these on a sore, and it will sting for a minute. Put Betadine/Iodine on a sore of yours, it may sting for a minute or so, then you don't feel it. It is an antiseptic of sorts as well as a drying agent. Clears up the sores very quickly. A sore left to fester is more painful than a brief sting of Betadine/Iondine.

I have used that stuff you use when you have chicken pox. Smells like coal tar and a horrible green colour... Human stuff. I have used it more as a lotion on the area, and mixed a bit in as a spray over the area. Iodine/Betadine is also really good for clearing up scratches/minor infections. I just buy the Iodine from animal produce and dilute as necessary. Malaseb also very good.

Take your OWN water!!!! Do not rely on town water for where you are at for drinking. That goes for you and the dog. I know of dogs who have had the squirts etc from drinking the local town water. Town water otherwise is fine for washing up etc. TOILET PAPER. You never know when the porta loo or where-ever you are runs out!! I keep a roll in the car at all times. Mosquito repellant, Sun screen, Stingose or similar. Rechargable lights (I have a number of LED lights/torches) Cover for you and your dog. (gazebo or something to keep you under shade/out of rain) If you go for a Crate - look in the local paper's for second hand crates. Much cheaper than new and many are still very servicable. Sometimes I crate, sometimes I don't depends on where I am. I also have a dog trailer, so again depends on where I am. Fold up table I use those butane stoves - excellent unless it it REALLY cold (Have had butane cans freeze). If you are going somewhere cold, then a normal gas stove is better. Tent - I have one of those Oztrail touring tents. If you go for this style, I recommend the 9V plus. It's about $80 more than the straight 9V, but if it's wet, it gives you more room inside to store stuff and help against cabin fever. I also prefer canvas, they breath better than the synthetic tents. I also have a swag and stretcher or last time I threw the swag in the back of the ute. First Aid; I have a normal first aid kit that stays in the car. If you are going away with dogs, I also make sure I have one packet of "gastro-stop" and "antihistomine" in the car. Both available from chemists. Food: Stick to what your dog is used to. Keep it simple. The dog can be stressed going away, and you don't want to introduce something that will go through them making your and their weekend "painful" to deal with. If you are only away for a night or two, then I would just stick to the kibble if that is what you normally feed.

Was at the show Saturday night. Going 14/3. Thankfully only got a little wet. Group 5 is down the bottom rings (13)

LOL, I saw your quote from Kathg that included a picture.. Ooops.

I will second Animal Options. I have been there. Rowan is the chiropractor I use for my dogs. I make the trip north of Brissie to see him. Well worth it.

Looks good everyone. Tambaqui: Looks good for your first attempt. The splice on the far side looks tidier than the closer one. But as you said with practice, you will get there. I have not plaited paracord, but I can presume it will be hard to get your plait tight given the material. Leather you can get much tighter, although I have seen some pretty loose plaiting. I always have flat plait on my handles rather than round. It is softer on the hands when you are using it. I am pretty sure that book shows you how to go from round to flat and back again. I just go from round to flat then once finish the handle, just splice it back into the round part on the lead. I probably splice it back in for about 5cms and taper off the spliced ends along the length so you dont get a bulge at the end of the splice if you finish the ends all at once. Looks a bit tidier, but that is personal preference. I really should get some photos of some I have done. If I remember when I get home, I will take some photos.

Kathg, When you splice the thongs back through, add a touch of glue to the underside. I just use leather glue that looks very strangely like normal white aquadere. Just helps it from working loose and unplaiting itself. particularly if you are one to scrunch the lead up in your hand etc. Just watch that the 3mm does not want to twist back on itself to show the underside being so narrow.

Whippets. I have to dig out my copy of that book to see what it says. Been awhile since I have referred to it. But normally you splice the ends back into itself. Just follow the pattern back.

As long as the dog is buried deep enough, there is no problems with that side of things. If the body is not buried deep enough, then anything can come looking. Other than that, the visiting dog will smell the scent of the other dog in the house, and may try to mark territory and that kind of stuff. Otherwise, do not see a problem, other than with the person who is taking in the dog. Could be best medicine for them, or may be too soon. Depends on the the reason the old dog had died and the state of the owner.

Sounds like a BC breeder I know of. Unfortunately if the breeder has not renewed their membership, there is not a lot the CCCQ can do as they are not members and therefore are not subject to CCCQ code of ethics. You can certainly do the stat dec thing and if the breeder DOES renew their membership, then the CCCQ may be able to suspend them or something. At least then it is on record at the CCCQ that papers were not supplied etc. There is a BIG difference in ETHICAL registered breeders and registered breeders. So sorry to hear you have been caught up with an unethical one. But please do not be put off by this experience. There are still plenty of ethical breeders out there. The problem in Qld is, if you decide to go into trailling sports (obedience, agility etc) you cannot compete as a pedigree without those papers. The next dog you get, MUST be a pedigree with papers under the CCCQ rules. (you are only allowed to have one non pedigree to be able to compete in ANKC events. Or if you have two non-pedigree dogs, they must be Associate registered TOGETHER in order to compete in ANKC events) Even though your existing pup is by the sounds of it Pedigree and should have come with papers. In Qld, registered breeders MUST register all surviving pups and papers MUST be supplied with puppies whether they be main or limit registrations.

kathg If you have no luck at Packers: Crispin Leather at Wooloowin are open all day wednesdays and thursday mornings. (well they used to be. may pay to check) otherwise they are mail order.

I want to title my first homebred girl that I think is good enough to show (except from her mother). She got her first 7 points 30/1/10 Want to start putting on some points for Blue. He already has done some winning getting baby/minor breed and is showing some promise despite being red Have some fun showing and learn to be a better handler

Kathq, Buy a martingale collar and cut off the fabric part and plait a leather one?? Crispin Leather supplies sell brass loops that are fixed (about the size of a 10c piece). Many loops and "D" rings you buy are not soldered together and can open. The problem with the brass ones, they maybe a little too large for small - medium dogs for the show ring. You would then need to get a check chain and thread into those loops. Very fiddly and I don't know how well it will go. So back I think to my first suggestion..... Buy a martingale or use an old one you have and cut off the fabic and plait the rest of the collar. One of my projects of "love" was making a head halter based on the Black Dog design. I used flat plait, double flat plait, 4 round plait using 3mm thong and brass rings and other fixtures.. Not something I will make for anyone else. Too much time went into it. The only thing I can think of that comes close but will probably be too heavy and large is stallion or arab chains/head pieces for lead in classes.

What book did you end up buying Ellz?

Ok, I will see if I can explain this properly. When I plait a normal lead (snap hook at one end with handle) I plait the round to the length I want. Then I go straight into a flat plait from the round for the desired length (about 20cm long) I then splice the end straight back into the round plait. It is all one thickness and no "doubling" When plaiting, you can go straight from round to flat then back to round without adding pieces. Alternatively, you can add more strands to the plait or taper strands out.

Ellz, I know Crispin are mainly mail order now. I think Packers Tannery retail shop mail orders. I do not know about the Melbourne Tannery, although I have heard they are pretty good. Do a google of leather supplies. As for length. can you post a picture of what you are trying to make as I am confused. Generally speaking; for a round plait, you need to double the finished length. For flat, you need to tripple the finished length. Of your finished length, you will have to work out how long the round part of the lead will be, and how long the flat part is then of course add the two calculations together.

Ellz. 3mm will plait a very thin lead. About the diameter of the thicker parachute cord. it is also harder to plait with being so thin. it likes to twist on itself more than the 4.5mm I recommend starting off with 4.5 mm. The finished lead will be about the thickness of a pencil. Try places like Mclace leather. The tannery in Melbourne, Packer Leather in Brisbane, Crispin Leather in Brisbane. Sorry I cannot give you closer leather supplies. The stuff sold at the Tannery is generally pretty good and fairly good prices. If you can buy a 50m roll. Its the way to go. Otherswise, I would recommend 10 or 20m hanks rather than buying by the metre. (unless you get an order for an odd colour like I have) The price on ebay is about normal for 3mm. 4.5 mm will range in price from $1.50 - $2.20 depending on where you buy it.

Whippets, Whether you plait over a cord or not will depend on end usage of the product and a personal choice. Depends also on the grade of leather you buy. I have seen some pretty cheap kangaroo thong, very thin and not as strong as other thonging. Skins of course are graded. You pay for good quality stuff of course. If you buy good quality thonging, then you will less likely need to use a nylon core. When I cut my own thong, I make sure I buy A or B grade hide. C grade hide has holes in it from skinning or the tanning process. It can be thick in some places and quite thin in other places. Even the precut stuff, I have seen different qualities. It depends on where you buy your thong from. Whip thonging is quite thick. When you think of the useage of the end product, you can understand why. One reason you bevel the sides so it sits better when plaited.