Mystiqview

Groupfive. So sorry to hear of Felow's passing. May he run free.

Cool. Thanks. Tis what I thought. Damn confusing when some show secretaries do the correct full terminology and others don't. All in the same magazine.

I am only asking as the shows I entered into today were only asking for self addressed envelopes. So it could be reasonable to presume they will stamp it... There is one here to send off next week asking for a stamped self address envelope.

For shows that only ask for a Self Addressed Envelope (SAE). do people still stamp the return envelope? I have entered some shows only asking for SAE not (stamped Self addressed envelope) SSAE. So far I am stamping my own return envelopes.

Yes definately get your conditions in writing. Pups on main/limit register. I know if many who stipulate anything you do not keep must go on limit. Others are a little more flexible and realise you may be towards numbers and have to 'stash' something. So they will allow those pups to go in duel ownership. CCCQ require a certain form filled in for co-ownership. Again, make sure you write into the co-own document the conditions. Also be aware, that CCCQ will not come between warring parties if a co-own goes sour. Payment of stud fees: Some require it up front. Some will require it once pups are born. Some will say a minimum of X puppy guarantee. Some don't. They say, you paid for a service, that was delivered so if your bitch reabsorbs etc, too bad. Some may offer a return service in such an event. Some stud dog owners are happy for stud to be paid later after deposits come in for puppies, and will then sign the stud form once payment is received. Payment of AI fees if any are required. Also some stud dog owners require the bitch to be swabbed and to be on anti-biotics. Some don't. Health Certificates: Already been mentioned. I second the sighting of ORIGINAL. There was a case a couple of years ago where hip/elbow and a DNA test was fudged to be favourable. The bitch owner I think only saw an emailed copy of such certificates and was duped to believing them to be true. Of course in line with this, you should also be aware of any health issues in the line and the risk of them coming up in your puppies. Some issues of course you may not be able to forsee or know about, but it never hurts to do research on any inherrant problems. Also look at non breed specific issues such as Bites, non-descended testes, small/large puppies, C-sections, and other issues not specific to your breed.

Third the one on one start off. Obedience clubs work in a class situation. Depending on the club and numbers you can have up to 20 people in a class. WHile most will try to keep numbers down to 10 or so, it is not always possible. That is a large number of people for one trainer to keep an eye on. Experienced trainers would be hard pressed to keep an eye on such a large class 100% of the time. The instructors at many clubs are people who have trained/trailed a dog or three. Their experience and knowledge vary greatly. People who are struggling or have issues do not get the attention they sometimes need to start off with, and get quickly left behind and disheartened. Once you get some basic control on a lead over your dog, then an obedience club will be good to keep up the training and socialisation. Here's your closest: Pine Rivers at Strathpine on Friday nights. Metro at Chermside on Monday nights. Teamwork Dog Obedience (private club but good) at Carseldine on Saturday morning.

anyone?

I had heard that too the other day. I know one was another brand of trailer that is VERY common and somewhat preferred by many. (ETA: I know of one person who loads their trailer up way past the recommended Gross weight. People who do that, are asking for trouble. It is an optional extra with Trek, except like their spare wheel (as they do not come standard with one) is a rip off. They wanted to charge $350 for a spare wheel. I picked up one at the very steep price at the wrecker for $30.

I am trying to get the Better Half (hint dear) to make me a trolley carrier to go on the back of the trailer. Those that have them, do you mind posting some photos of yours to give him an idea please? I do have a Trek brand 4 berth trailer. I know I can buy them from Trek, but I don't want to deal with them again. Too painful and a rip off too I might add.

Does that happen with frozen bones too? I sometimes give my dogs frozen bones on hot days. Should I thaw it first? I think at the end of the day, a lot depends on YOUR dog. Likewise with Ice, toys or anything else you give them. (UN)Common sense should always prevail. My dogs tend to lick the ice cube (as I give it as a big 2ltr ice cube). As with bones. Mine tend to lick the bones and once they are defrosted, they get right into them and chew. If you have a dog that likes to gulp everything in sight, then supervision is always the key. No matter if the bones are defrosted or frozen. I have seen dogs go hell for leather into defrosted bones and get them stuck, or fail to chew the bones and then parts of it get stuck somewhere along the digestive tract.

JulesP: Go down to clark rubber and get their 6cm recycled rubber matting. I think it is in a 1.5 or 1.8 width though. I put that in the kennels and it seems to stop the cold rising from the floor. Then you may put what ever bedding you wish on top. If she likes carpet, have you tried getting a carpet mat and moving that around for a bed? Also maybe a piece of dense foam, similar to what you put in the bottom of swags etc. It is similar stuff to what you put on the floor of horse-floats if that makes sense.

Yep! We buy greek yoghurt in the 2ltr containers... So we have heaps of those lying around.. I stick one or two of those in the freezer and drop those outside on hot days. Blue, brandy and Faith all fight to curl around it and lick them. We found it by accident. I dumped a bag of ice outside after a camping trip. Blue kept on picking up the chunks and eating them. I also give my bones frozen too. Dogs seem to love them. Lick, lick, lick

I believe the CCCQ have had a name change to come into alignment with the other states. If you go back a few issues of Dog world, it is in the President's message about the name change. Maybe, just maybe they are starting to get out of the dim dark doldrums of fogeyism and will become a little more proactive in promoting pedigree dogs to the wider community and move into the 21st centuary. If it takes off, it will be a nice change. Their old website was a pain to navigate and an eyesaw.

Pedigree dogs now, were developed from mixing breeds. It may have been selective breeding, but in the development of some breeds. Selective crosses were used. Look at the dobermann. (Before BC's I had dobes). It was crossed between the Pinscher, rottweiler, old german shepherd dog (nothing like what we now know as GSD's). You go back far enough into breed history and breed books, I am sure there will be "origin of the breed". A friend of mine, has one pedigree dog. He is currently about 6 years old and is fighting fit. The dog lives there as a "stash" from the breeder. The guy's wife, wanted a red BC so down the pet store they went (go figure - another story too??) and bought one red/white BC. Cost them about $800, three and a half years ago. 10 days ago, they had to put down this red/white BC with Cancer. She had multiple lymphomas and one in her throat that prevent them from putting an oxygen tube down her throat. The pet shop BC, of course is only "purebred" at best. Not health tested or anything else. Pedigree pups for my breed range from $600 - $1000 depending on their breeding and the breeder and in some cases more for those cashing in on the colour for money scheme (Anything up to $2000 for a merle or other 'fad' colour by some colour breeders). Something I don't agree with. Most reputable breeders I know do not charge more for coloured dogs. I sell coloured puppies for the same as black/white ones. They all cost the same to raise and register and I do not believe in charging more for something that happens naturally within the breed (Colour that is). But a good quality BC from health tested parents range roughly in that price bracket. I have seen BC's in pet stores for the same price if not more in some cases. No health testing done on the parents or anything else. Now, who claims pedigree dogs are more expensive?? I personally do not lay blame totally on the TV gardener. There were other programs including the morning shows advertising and promoting these cross breds. I know he had issues with the CCC of his state etc. The FAD was already snowballing. With certain websites containing free puppy ads, they were already dominating a large chunk of puppy advertisements. He may have exacerbated the issue, but I do not think he is the root cause of the DD fad we have now.

I supported the reasoning behind Guide Dogs for doing the poodle x labradore cross. And still do in principle. Of course with media and all that crap, who knows the truth these days to whether it is reasonably successful, or still persevered with. I do not know why the curly coat or other breeds were ruled out as unsuitable guide dogs. To me, if a group can genuinely provide a damn good argument for producing a new breed (AKA cross), then I would consider it on merit. Many of our beloved pedigree dogs started off as crossbred to be bred for a specific purpose. To me, it would be hypocritical to not look at genuine reasons for putting X with Y. Given the selection of breeds and many are not used for their original purpose now, I think I would be hard pressed to see why there is a need for a new breed. I realise some crosses have also been around for a reasonable long time and are fighting their way into ANKC or similar bodies recognition (a terrier breed comes to mind, but cannot think of the name right now).

I have got my lot entered Sat/Sun. Stoopid me sent only one cheque off, so got them returned the other day with a note "Please Ammend". So resent entries yesterday (and two cheques). WIll tryand get up there Fri night. Paid for two nights camping. Will see how I go leaving work early and take the drive.

In Brisbane, the yearly breeder permit cost is about $180. It was $220 for the application. Hand over your money and basically you get a permit. Dog registration in Brisbane is about $38/dog with CCCQ discount. Annual permit about $160 as mentioned. Maximum 4 dogs. When I lived in Pine Rivers, now Moreton Council, the application was about $80, you had to get all your boundary neighbours to sign the form to say they were ok with you breeding/did not have an issue with you breeding. Your premisis was inspected by council to be suitable and then subject to yearly inspections for "health reasons": Ie where was food stored - secured away from Vermin (which I thought was funny as the area was all horse and horse feed = vermin), faeces picked up etc. Annual permit was then about $40, with a yearly inspection. I just renewed my permit for Pine Rivers as it is held at my folks place. As they are on acerage, the block size used to allow up to 6 dogs. I only applied for a permit for four at the tim (DOH!). Rego was $22 or something stupid like that. I am still confused with dog rego. There is no dog permanently living there, so am still confused. I was told it would be about $70 as they had scrapped the breeder discount. Just before Jemma died last July, I had her renewal as she lived with my folks and it was for about $22. she was desexed, so got the desexed rate. But there was also dog still on their books who was not desexed for the same amount. So go figure?? I was told by council inspector before the council merge, to NEVER let the permit lapse at my folks place. So I pay for two permits. I think I like the Pine Rivers, Oops Moreton idea of inspections. Pain in the Ass, but at least there is a check to see if the right thing is being done, rather than take your money and here's your permit attiitude of Brisbane City Council.

I have seen people use these trolleys before: I have also seen others get a bit of study ply (you would want 16-19mm depending on weight) or something and screw wheels under it, then Occy strap their crate on top. The only problem with Ply is don't get it wet. The only problem I see with them is the Castor size. When you start to get into sandy areas, the wheels get bogged. Otherwise I use to use a similar trolley to what was displayed earlier. I now have a show trolley.

For bedding, I buy polar fleece from Spotlight and put that in the crate. About $5/metre Young pups may still have accidents in a crate, and the polar fleece is easily washed and dryed. By the time the spin cycle is finished, the polar fleece is nearly dry and can be re-used fairly quickly.

Twodoggies: Go back to my first post in this thread on page one and you will see I have written: I just don't believe in jumping down their throats on their first email contact. I will give them the benefit of the doubt for ignorance on their first and maybe second email contact. After that, well, it depends on what they come back at me with. Judge each buyer on the merit at the time. In my breed, as I said, there is no shortage of pups. If I think they are a dick, let them go to someone else and waste their time.

I did find the CCCQ schedule online by my friend Google. However The Gundog & Heavy Breeds is not listed in that pdf. Does the Gundog & Heavy breeds need a SAE for numbers/passes.

Twodoggies: Do not get me wrong, I do screen my potential puppy buyers. At the moment on DOL there are 38 border collie litters advertised. So there is no shortage of BC pups going. (Not that I have a litter now.) Earlier this year when I did have a litter to sell there were about 32 BC litters advertised on DOL. Those one liner emails: I reply in kind. I am not going to spend an hour composing an email back to them scruitinizing their knowledge, and conditions etc. If a person is interested in what you have, they will get back to you. If they don't there is another enquiry following it. So far, I never had any problems moving my pups on. All mine have always been sold by 8 weeks. I DO CARE where they go and the scruitinizing comes later, not on that first email contact. I may include in my first reply, that all pups are sold on Limit Registration (and its definition) as many new pet buyers do not know what it is. The parents are all health tested etc. If there is someone else looking at a pup they are interested in, I will do them the courtesy of telling them there is someone ahead of them interested in that particular puppy. The puppy buyer may only want a female and I may only have males left or vice versa. So why bother going into a lengthy email if you do not have what they want? They may not be able to afford to buy your puppy. Some phone calls I get, they say, "Oh that much", not realising how much pedigree puppies from health tested parents cost. You see on DOL people posting how hard they are on some new puppy buyers. Sometimes I think they are over the top. Some of these puppy buyers do not know our ways and you may be their first contact with a pedigree breeder. They may not know about DOL and never had a pedigree dog before. This may be their first pet and they made the right choice to approach a pedigree breeder in the first instance. So many variables. How would you feel if a breeder jumped down your throat when you first made contact??? You would go WTF???? As I said, I like to do my scruitinizing after that first email enquiry. I encourage them to ask questions and I ask them questions about where the pup is going to live and their situation. If they prove to be a dick, then I just say, I have nothing suitable for them. Ultimately I have the right of refusal, same as the puppy buyer.

A note at the local shopping centre is no different to advertising anywhere else. Hopefully if two people are advertising in the same location: One registered and one non.. Hopefully people will go to the registered person first. No matter where a breeder advertises, it is the care and support offered behind the scenes that is important. A flashy front can still hide a bad apple underneath.

Given that some states MAY STILL not all pups to go with papers. I was under the belief that now in all states, ALL pups must be registered and go with papers. But charging $300 for papers is highway robbery and for that, I would definitely run a mile!!! If the dog you are looking into is in WA, ring Dogs West and ask them the cost of registering a pup... That is what you should be paying, not $300. It does not cost more to raise a pup with papers or a pup without. The only further cost is the physical payment for the registration for that pup with the papers. In Queensland, pup registration before 3 months of age is only about $30.

Not something I will try personally, not unless I suddenly win lotto, stay at home and can devote the time needed. I did keep two pups out of my last litter, then rehomed one to a friend as a stash on breeders terms. I did sell two pups to a family in Darwin. That was after much discussion on whether they would be able to handle them and give them the separate time both individual would need. It seems from talking to them, they have succeeded and are doing well at it. It is not something I will sell either to puppy buyers without much discussion and consideration. It can work, it depends much on the pups going and the people who are taking the pups.