Mystiqview

you know Betadine is only already diluted Iodine?? Betadine is diluted for humans mainly because (I am one of them) quite a few are allergic to Iodine. I believe it is also one reason Iodine is hard to come by in Chemists. Sorry.. with the horses we just buy the straight Iodine, then dilute it to what strength we need or use it straight depending on the wound etc. Being a liquid, can put in trigger spray or use it as a complete wash. Vetadine Iodine Wash (500ml) $16.00 (250 ml $10) A general purpose antiseptic wash, effective against a wide range of bacterial and fungal skin conditions. That was from "The Vet Shed"

Iodine. Stronger than Betadine. Get it from livestock type produce store. Cheaper too. Dilute it yourself

I found once a few websites allegedly linked higher protein diets with increased chances of ED and OCD. I have formatted my computer since then and no longer have the links. It could be worth researching. Especially if you have growing puppies/dogs. Basically it warned about high(er) protein diets and quick growth leading to increased risk

Bully, Sulpher is still used by some in human grade meat. That's why in the butcher/meat department, it looks so nice and very red.

A vet specialist told me once to forget the sasha blend etc and go down to local discount pharmacy and get the bulk tablets there and give (for my dog) 1/3 of the dose listed for human. Said it was exactly the same thing at half the price of pet marketing products. Especially small animal. Even see it with products we give the horses that are also suitable for dog... get the horse product it is cheaper.

I would say most would contain it as it is commonly used as a preservative even meat for human consumption. I believe though it should not be used.. however I think some supermarkets and butchers are still using it. It makes meat look nice and fresh and red... Here is a link to fact sheet that gives the numbers as that is how the companies are getting around the labelling laws.. It is on the label, but you have to know what number is associated with it.. 220 Sulphur dioxide 221 Sodium sulphite 222 Sodium bisulphite 223 Sodium metabisulphite 224 Potassium metabisulphite 225 Potassium sulphite 228 Potassium bisulphite http://www.fedupwithfoodadditives.info/fac...ctsulphites.htm

Lazy people who feed kibble.. pffft. Hmm.. our meat supplies are full of additives and antiobiotics and other genetic enhancers.. who knows what that is doing to the dog let alone ourselves.. pfft. Like what keeps getting said in these threads.. feed whatever works for you and your dog not every dog is the same and can eat the same foods.. Just like humans.. Glad to hear that you think he is losing weight. I did not realise from your first posts the dog was that young. I would possibly cut back on the meat in the morning. Depending on the size of your turkey neck.. if it is full size, I would probably half it.. same for the chicken frame as both of those are quite fatty in themselves. Also look into Greyhound bickies.. 4x4 or 2x2.. (God forbid more dry food).. There is not a lot of value nutrition in them, but they are good to give as a treat/snack without adding too much other to the diet.. it also "fills the hole" so to speak. Again watch colours as some companies have flavoured (cheese, vanilla and I think beef) ones that are also coloured.

Do not normally need antibiotics. Keep any wounds clean and dry. You can dab on some betadine or Iodine onto them if you wish. It does not matter where the ticks were picked up.. You have them. I would suggest putting the dogs on some course of tick preventative. Frontline Plus, Advantage or Proban tablets. I live in paralysis tick area, and all mine are on Proban. More expensive, but more effective too. The top spots are not doing it as well here. After having two dogs down the vets at the beginning of tick season on drips in two weeks due to paralysis and over $1000 poorer.. I dont take the risk.. twice daily checks. The other day, I picked off about 50 baby ticks of the pup.. all the size of pin heads.. She was no worse for wear.. It did not help they killed a bandicoot the day before.. All native animals are natural hosts to ticks... Crows, magpies, kangaroos, possums, bandicoots, flying foxes.. If you have those, there is a good chance you have ticks.

I got an enjo glove... same material as the normal clothes brushes.. But always found vacuum cleaner does wonders.

I like using Kabana or just frankfurt. Cut the roll into quarters, then slice it. Not too small that it is hard to handle but small enough that the dog gets the treat without wasting too much time chewing it. Haltis are only a quick fix like what others have said. I would not even call them a quick fix. I think they are more a masking agent. Take the halti off and the dog goes back to pulling because it has only learnt not to pull with a halti on. I would do some practice outside of class where there is some high distraction too. I used to also train at a local offleash area. I did it to start with before most of the other people arrived and only used the distraction of the other smells there. Then I moved up to training in the small dog area with some other dogs there.. The other dogs could not come over and disturb me, the training session was VERY short but well driven with food. The dog was then given a life reward later by being allowed to play with his mates. IMO haltis are given to people at obedience clubs because there is not the time to teach the person to use the tool they have properly. That is where you really need some one on one training, many clubs just do not have the man power to do that. If you get stuck, ask some of the experienced people if they would be willing to come back after class or another time to give you some one on one training.

I am surprised he has not told you to put the dog on a "lite" or Diet type kibble. I agree with Nekhbet as to why the Vet has said feed kibble only. It is easy and possibly the lazy way.. but you can control intake so much better. I use human hamburger mince with my girls, however I know myself that the fat content within the mince can vary greatly between lots. Likewise with chicken, fat varies. If you want the dog to lose weight, control of protein and fat needs to be monitored closely. To bulk up the food, try wetting the kibble to bulk it up first, and also grate carrot into it to add as a bulker so the dog feels like it is getting more than what he already is.

Some are.. However I have heard of more instances of them getting stuck in the digestive tract than anything else and needing surgery to get them removed.

I would not waste my money on farex either. Their is absolutely no nutritional value in it. You are better to soften dry dog food with water (I use boiled water and then let it cool - quicker than cold). If you wish mix some biolac or something with it. You can even buy goats milk or lactose free milk from the supermarket to mix with it.. cheaper than dedicated premix puppy milk" Dogs dont need their food cooked either. Raw is better. The nutrients aren't cooked out of it. It is a human thing to cook food. I have used tinned food only ON OCCASION as a stir through sauce if they are being picky. It is normally only a tablespoon or something mixed through the dry food as a kind of gravy only. Other than that, raw chicken necks, raw hamburger mince (its the cheapest) is perfect as well.

I agree with some of the others. It is what works for the dog. I have fed over the years "Digger" It is not too bad, has added garlic in there and is reasonably priced for 2okg bag Bonnie range. I found one choice better than the other.. cannot remember now which way it went whether working was better than their chicken or vice versa I would be looking for anything free from colours. Just plain ole boring brown dog food. The ones that have colourful "vege" looking bits have artificial colours.. I would be staying away from those. Shop around. Look at some of the Animal Produce places rather than the corner pet store. The produce places can be (some are not) a lot cheaper than even the large pet stores

I used to have a husky that I could have off leash in open areas without her running off... I also know of others who have breeds like huskies that are safe offleash (running away). I live on acerage, and could walk the paddocks without her running away and recall at any time. The husky I had we used to do obediece demos at the Brisbane Royal and Pet Expos with a local obedience club. I believe it is the dog not the breed. Some are harder to train. You just have to find the right training method FOR THEM. Its called training, training, and more training. And making you more enjoyable to BE WITH.

Just reading the comments here I can understand and see why he is not popular with some breeders and dog owners. It has been some time since I have been to his seminar. As I mentioned previously, it was at Seaworld Nara. I believe it was one of his first trips to Oz speaking like this. I really enjoyed his talks. Much just made common sense. He remembered that dogs were dogs and aware that may put human values and ideas onto dogs. I also see his point about correct socialisation as a young puppy. It is hard to get 100 people or more at the best times to handle an adult dog let alone a puppy. Just the same, I have seen puppies who have had little social contact in those first 8 weeks be scared and timid and not good with other animals. There is a word called moderation . I have socialised all my puppies before they have gone at 8 weeks of age. Done informatively, carefully and strategicly, it does not detriment the mental and physical health of the puppies. My puppy buyer have all loved the fact that the puppy they take home at 8 weeks is well adjusted to just about everything. My puppies get car rides from about 5 weeks. I just bundle everyone in the car (duel cab ute with cage in the back)... Head down to the local coffee shop and sit on my tailgate with a cup of coffee.. The pups are not touched or handled by anyone. They just sit and play and see the world go by.. Found this great when new owners pick up puppies... they are not S***t scared of the car and travelling. I do not do lead training, or fully potty training. They get little collars at 6-7 weeks before they go to get used to them. They are also given a secure kennel area during the day where there is a sleeping area and grass to do business. I have found this helps with natural progression on potty training. Not foolproof of course. Accidents DO happen. However, I have had puppies from other breeders who have had the run of the house and have learnt that it is acceptable to pee and poop anywhere and everywhere. There is a noticable difference. There are key times in a puppy's mental development. A breeder should know when is a good time/phase to introduce new things and how to correctly do it. Quite often, what is done at the breeder's house affects the personality and mental health of that puppy for the rest of its life.

I went to his seminar a few years back at Seaworld on the Gold Coast. Have always wanted to go back and do it again. Anyone here been to one of his seminars previously and then went to his recent one?? Much different?? I found his seminar rather informative and very easy to understand and follow. Much also made sense.

you can try capstar. that will kill the fleas on the dog within 24 hours. however it will not stop new fleas jumping back onto the dog. you also need to treat the environment as well as the animal. it would not matter what product your dog is on if there are fleas still in the house, bedding and yard. not treating all will only re-infect the dog. some have success with advantage, frontline plus whille others do not. Mine are on Proban - more for paralysis tick (one tablet every days per 10kg).. it also seems to be doing well for fleas.. less dosage given for fleas.

Anyone had this and found a way for them to stop peeing in excitement? It is NOT fear. She has been hand raised almost. It is a pup I bred. She is now five months old. Cheers Tracie

Put lead on in the house and let her drag it around for a while. do not make any fuss over the lead. This will get her used to the weight of it on her collar. Play with her treat her which also reinforces a positive association with the lead. get some tasty treats, get her to walk next to you by luring her to walk along side you with tasty treats. let the lead drag along the ground. If you have a hallway in the house, use that with her against the wall and you towards the middle of the hallway. Once she walks next to you without you touching the lead, you pick up the lead and repeat.. Treat every step the she follows you. Treat her at your side.. I use things like cheese or kabana/cherio sausage cut small.

I had the 350D because of the firmware issue. It was a good camera. I have since gone up to the nikon - change in priorities and the Nikon does it better. But will not completely sell out the Canon. Have a look around on Ebay as well. See what the going rate of the 300D is.. Also look at the going rate for the 350D.. especially now that Canon has launched a new one. The 300 and 350D's should drop in price. However I have seen some of the pentax and fuji Dslr's take some really nice stuff too.. They are not as expensive as the Canon/Nikon range.

I would not go for the 300.. They had known firmware issues. If it has had the upgrade/patch I would consider it.

I would check on the warranty though.. Many warranties are "Not transferrable" I would also look around at some of the deals at camera stores and places like WOW sight N sound who sell cameras.. Even some of the new cameras on ebay could be worth a look at - even if they are out of china.. Some companies are good reputable ones. I have dealt with a couple of dealers from China (only lenses though) and found them reputable. I can supply their names if you wish.

I moved on the weekend from acerage to a suburban block. I put the fence collar on my youngest and went to work. 45 minutes later I got a phone call from my frantic new house mate saying Mia has escaped. I got off the train ready to head back home. She rang me again and said that Mia has returned. So I continued onto work. Once I got to work, I rang my flatmate back. I found that when Mia returned, the fence collar was no longer on her neck. A full search of the yard yielded no collar. I did a walk of the neighbour's yard where she would have jumped the fence without any luck. The strange thing about the whole thing is mia wears a normal loose collar which contains her tags. She is still wearing that collar which is loose enough to slip over the head. The fence collar which was buckled tight is no longer there!!! What do you think the chances are of it being stolen by anyone who may have found Mia on the street while she was out?? Anyway $300 later I have a new collar from Innotek on order.. one expensive move!

I was not meaning you to google it necessarily.. More anyone reading this thread out of matter of interest. However in saying that, while google is your friend, some pages found on the internet to me are not necessarily from reliable sources (scientific journals etc) if you know what I mean there. Friend's dog injured themselves in the fence.. One vet said they have OCD, another specialist said No it wasn't. When they first told me what the first vet said on the first diagnosis I did some research as it all sounded funny... Found some interesting reads.. Got them to see another specialist. Mind you.. with one saying one thing and another saying something different.. both specialists... makes it more confusing. Needless to say.. the dog is still not limping from apparant OCD