Mystiqview

put vicks under their nose works well. also used to do it when we had stallions at dressage competitions

A recommendation by a vet specialist with a dog who had an injury was to go down to your happy "discount chemist" and buy the glucossamine tablets. I had a medium sized dog and the recommendation for dosage was to 1/3 the dose rate for humans. It is the same stuff as the injection, and much cheaper. He said it may take a little longer to work as it is tablet form, but over the long run, much cheaper option.

Do a google on OCD: While rooted in genetics (passed on by one or both parents) One of the contributing factors is related to diet: eg, high calorie, and over supplimentation. The recommendation for those breeds prone to the disorder is to feed adult food or large breed food earlier on with lower protein levels.

Some pain killers do have a vomiting/diahorrea reaction. Do a google on Metacam and you can see the possible side effects, one includes vomiting I had a bitch here who was given a metacam injection, one set of vets said no, it could not have been the injection that caused the vomiting, as it was more commonly known with longer term oral use.. got her settled down.. and then started about 7 days later on oral.. Sure enough, after about 24 hours, vomiting/diahorrea started again.. so me thinks it is metacam.. Especially when you read the write ups on it

diesel dog, Perfect diet. Some here will push BARF diet.. Biggest problem with true BARF is getting the "mix" right with vitamins, minerals etc. Some who try BARF think like a human and give the dog what they think is healthy (for humans anyway), they have different needs and what is good for us, is not necessarily beneficial to a dog. But a good supply of raw meaty bones and a good dry food is good. I alternate mine with chicken necks, lamb brisket, turkey tails, chicken frames, and on older dogs, beef bones. At the moment I am feeding Advance, but have feed mid range products as well as other high end dry food. Also a tin of sardines, cat food tuna/mackerel once a month is good for skin/coat. Just go for the straight ones.. I normally just get homebrand or similar in natural oil. I would not feed beef bones to a puppy as the bone is much stronger than chicken/lamb brisket and can have a tendancy to break puppy teeth. If you feed marrow bone as an adult dog, I recommend getting the butcher to split them lengthwise so they can easily get the marrow out of the middle. And less likely to break teeth trying to break the bone to get it

BAER testing is lightly sedating the dog and putting I dunno what you call it, but "probes" and hooked up to a machine. It measures the responses to clicking, whistles etc. But if your pup is responding to noise now. looks good. Those that are deaf due to white, are basically deaf from birth. No guarantee that the pup will not go deaf with old age, like us all.

Nope. Support what others have said. Nope feeding calcium suppliments when the dog does not need it is dangerous. A normal puppy on a normal diet of good kibble (even average kibble) and fresh meat and bones should not need calcium suppliments unless there is an issue preventing the dog from absorbing it from its natural food. If that is the case, then it should be on vetinary advice.

With white, has the breeder BAER hearing tested them. Common problem with white dogs is deafness.

The eye where the white is does not look like it will get pigment. No issue. Will just have to watch the sun and eye problems associated there. The nose, looks like it will mostly if not fully pigment up. The freckling around the whole nose looks promising. It may only just retain the pink around the nostril itself.

may or may not darken How is the pigment around the eye lid itself? Is it white or dark?

Same, I missed that part in the OP. Pretty harsh she was sent home same day :D Offer her small amounts of water at a time if she's interested. And a cuddle from me! In some ways it is a good thing bitches are kept in overnight for observation, it shows they care about the dog... Sad that you don't have the dog home with you, but for one night, at least I know she is on pain relief and is kept under watch. The local vet here is also a vet hospital, so I suppose it has some pluses, although I now drive up to Dayboro. Found the vets there at the Uni are really good and treat you with a bit more respect and not another "dumb" pet owner. I had to take the old girl in for a full blood work, urine test and thyroid test last week. The vet was really good, listened to what I knew of the history of diseases in the family (her mother had late onset diabetes), this bitch suffers exercise induced hypothermia and my records of how often, how long, etc and what is done to control it. They did not treat me as a dumb pet owner and really spent the time looking into her problems. The whole thing cost only $144 which I am surprised for an initial consultation, and the lab work done. Will definately be going back there.

Mason_luke What colour is the pup? some of the lighter colours may take longer to darken and some don't as you sometimes see in say blue merles, chocolates and some blue's in the border collie. There is a product called colourmax (check spelling) which is an suppliment you can give which has given good results to others in assisting getting pigment through. be careful of kelp. It is known to react with some dogs/breeds. Some sware by it, others have had issues/problems.

My local vet here keeps bitches in overnight - NO EXCEPTIONS and gives pain relief. Dogs they will on a case by case basis.

yep mind training and quality one on one time is great during this period. Found with the breeds I have had, exercise the mind... and it also stops some of the excesses.

To some parts I disagree and in some parts I fully agree. I hope that makes sense. Socialise your pup with common sense. One place I would avoid like the plague is the off lead parks until full vaccination protocols have been done. And even then, keep and ear out about kennel cough (KC) /parvo outbreaks in your area/s. Even vaccinated dogs can get kennel cough/parvo and carry those viruses. Vaccination does not prevent you from getting the virus 100%. It's there to set up the immune system to be able to fight it with already recognised antibodies made when the dog was vaccinated. If the dog gets the virus, it is hoped that the dog will not get a killer dose of it, rather a mild form. You may not even know the dog has parvo as all it may have is a slightly runny nose/eyes for example. You can bring parvo/KC into your yard yourself through shoes/clothing. They are air borne component, so the person walking along the front footpath can bring it to you. Direct contact with other dogs makes it easier for your pup to pick it up. I would still take the dog for car rides, to the local shopping centre etc. Just be vigilant to make sure the pup does not go sniffing other doggy bottoms and vice versa. Puppy school: just because this is held at a vets or other establishment, what is stopping other puppy owners from not being vigilant in where they go? If held at the vets, the person may not have been as careful to sterilise the area where you do puppy school, and if at private establishment, how do you know if a dog infected/carryign the virus has not walked through only minutes before you got there? You can get paranoid about it. Or you can be sensible. I do not let my dogs live in cotton wool here as I believe there is a greater risk of a dog being PTS due to poor socialisation then disease/virus. But just use some common sense where you socialise your pup.

The thing to be careful of about vit K and any other "medication" they all have expiry dates! As for a first aid kit, I have a standard human type one: Saline solution for washing wounds tweezers, scissors, scalpel various size bandages (either for splinting, packing as in the case for puncture wounds) Iodine gloves (as I cannot handle iodine) non stick dressings/swabs small kidney dish gastro stop (for diahorrea) straight antihistomine The last two are to be used with caution as they are both human products and you need to know dose rates for dogs

Each dog is different and handles surgery differently. The "normal" running around for one dog can greatly differ from the running around "normal" puppy behaviour of another dog. Even in your sentence, I can think of a number of different ways that the dog can be "back to normal" running up and down the stairs, jumping up and putting feet on table.. Your dog may have been more aware of its stitches and been careful, to say not to twist and turn and pull stitches. It also depends on how well the vet stitched up the dog. I have seen some spaying wounds done neatly and some not. Some with very large cuts and some with small cuts. There are just too many variables to give advice "don't worry about it" It is not a wise course to follow to say "that dog ran around and got through it fine therefore mine will to" Not KNOWING what the dog is doing from a web forum perspective, it is better to offer advice on the conservative side than on the blaze-fair side of "It'll be right mate".

she needs to be restricted for at least 7 days as others have said to give time for internal stitches to heal. You may also need to invest in an elizabethan collar (bucket) to go over her head if she worries her stitches as they start to heal and get itchy. You do not want her licking, or chewing them. They can get infected or pull making the wound gape and then get infected. Like others have said, give her plenty of chew toys/bones to chew rather than maybe feeding her kibble for food. You may have to crate her or restrict her to a small room. For toilet runs, I would take her out on lead so she cannot run around and be stupid.

C3 vaccination includes distemper, hepatitis, and parvovirus C4 vaccination includes C3 plus parainfluenza (involved in kennel cough) C5 vaccination includes C4 plus another compound for kennel cough C4: * Distemper - a potentially fatal disease with a range of symptoms including fever, "cold-like" symptoms, convulsions and muscle twitching. * Infectious Canine Hepatitis - causes liver damage and a range of signs including depression, abdominal pain, cloudy eyes and death. * Parvovirus - a severe, often fatal, disease that causes sudden depression, fever, vomiting and diarrhoea. * Parainfluenza - the viral component of canine cough. This is a complex disease characterised by a harsh, continual cough that is highly infectious between dogs. C5: * C4 + Bordetella - In addition to the C4 vaccination components, the C5 vaccine also covers Canine Bordetella which is the bacterial component of canine cough. C3 is normally done for puppies first Vaccination at 6 weeks of age. Normally at the second vaccination at 12 weeks, is a C4 with a booster at 16 weeks. Alternatively, the puppy is vaccinated at 6 weeks with C4 then again at 12 weeks with the booster C4, therefore not needing the third injection at 16 weeks. C4 is common for adult dogs, although some vets/regions prefer higher vaccinations (C5 or C7)

EEEEEEKKKKKKKK Yep he is the same one (Cherokee). He also used to have a "school" base at Manly. Try Southside Dog Obedience Club at Runcorn. They train on Monday nights. There is another group at Buranda (I think) that does pet dog training. I cannot rememember their name, but I had met a couple of the trainers recently and they I think do more pet dog activities, rather than the older style formal obedience training. From what I gather they teach more tricks and other things similar to doggy dancing if that helps.

Deviant Art is a good website too... Got everyone there.. Although it is more about posting up images. The forums/chat rooms can be a great source of information. used to belong to the community. Some really nice stuff posted and some really really nice people http://www.deviantart.com/

The best way is to do the photos in photoshop. There is a "save for web" option under the file tab. You can save the image as a jpeg, gif etc. Adjust the sizing as well. This allows you to put a larger photo up on the web without dramaticly increasing download time. The thing I hate the most about photobucket images from people who post them on here is they still take AGES to open, and they take up the WHOLE screen. At least by pinning the thumbnails, it does not take as long to download and the screen is not taken up by huge photos. I am on broadband here and some of the photos posted still take an age to show up.. Imagine the poor souls still on dial up. I know of a few people who have images turned off because of this reason. If you reduce the resolution, you will reduce the quality. No way out of it.

Can you replace the "door" with something clear they can see through that may not be as heavy to start with? Do what the others have said with so far as training.. But rather than the heavy weather door.. maybe some light clear plastic to start with.. so he gets used to that first and the feel of it going over the back.

www.dogwise.com www.cleanrun.com This is another one.. can't think of it

Found this link on another list. I always had to wonder about Garlic due to its relation to the onion family and know problems/issues with onions and dogs. FYI: Pets By Nature - Garlic