Salukifan

This already happens although you can, for a fee, protect a prefix for life.

You need to establish your bona fides in the breed - and money alone will not convince a decent breeder to entrust their bloodlines to you. That's what the apprenticeship is for. People in the breed get to know you and you get to know them - just as important. Who you consider the bees knees going in and who you consider is that a few years on may change! I think i paid about $150 for my prefix. I pay more than that on average for a month's petrol for showing and 10 times that to attend most specialties. Its not a cheap activity if you want to get seriously into it. Breeding can escalate those costs into the stratosphere! I think the NSW rule is bizarre! Its going to make an apprenticeship even more important.

Most people looking to get their foundation bitch shouldn't expect to get her as the first Main Register purebred dog they buy. Few breeders are going to sell their pick bitches to someone with no track record in the breed. As I said start with a dog, serve an apprenticeship and then go forward.

So it wasn't a hypothetical and it is about you. Why the fairy tale? If you want to get a kick start into a breed, start with a dog. If you want the best bitch you can get then you need to establish a track record in the breed beyond pet ownership and for many breeders, that's in the show ring. A dog is easier to obtain a lot of the time and will get you into the ring and actually give you a chance to FIND the breeder you want to buy from. I'd want evidence of an apprenticeship served and a reputation estabiished before parting with a breeding quality bitch to an unknown

In my opinion, new owners could also be doing a lot more to help themselves. There is a raft of information out there on this for anyone prepared to do 5 minutes of online research. Good pet ownership involves a lot of responsibility - sadly councils are hard pressed to deal with those who fail to demonstrate any.

What do I do? FAIL. They are either misinformed or attempting to mislead me (which is rather silly) I wonder why the hell they have told me that they can't get a prefix yet because they need to get a bitch to breed first. The first thing it suggests to me is that they clearly haven't done much homework on what it takes to be an ANKC registered breeder. Not a good start for an aspirant breeder. I have a breeder's prefix and I do not own an undesexed bitch.

Also depends on what people want to do with them. I don't know anyone who wants a sports dog who would willingly take on an early desexed pup. They want optimal structural soundness.

I think its because there is no pressure on the nail as there is with guillotine ciippers. One of my Whippets will scream and bite ordinary clippers but will tolerate the Dremel. Just. I also think its easier on the dog if you learn to do this yourself. Vet surgeries put a lot of dogs into stress mode just taking them in the door.

I'd be trying a Dremel - a lot less traumatic for many dogs. If it's done little and often, you should be able to do it yourself. Failing that, mild sedation wil be less traumatic for the dog and safer for the person doing the nails. If sedation is to be used, then it should only be done at the vets.

I think Wazzat means what she says. If you're only faking it, its a great way to lose knowledgeable potential homes. Those who've done their homework on early desexing are likely NOT to want a desexed baby puppy.

I use both, on each of my dogs, every month. Neither the Bowen nor the Chiro seems to mind who goes first, provided they are not on the same day. In my case, I have the bowen two days before chiro. i think the combination has really helped my oldest poodle and also helps keep the crazy young Whippet sound. PM me if you hve any questions. ETA: My dogs have had monthly chiro for well over a decade. However I think the addition of Bowen has made a marked difference to my oldest boy in particular. He is definitely not as frail as he was 6 months ago which for a 16 and a half year old poodle is pretty good!

This is not a baby puppy - I'm not sure of the point you're trying to make Jed.

Given that you don't know the dog, its current owner or its breeder, that's a whole bunch of assumptions you just made. The dog has not been "suddenly stuck in the back yard" for a start.

I thought kangaroo was considered too low in fat to suit most dogs? No matter here anyway, my dogs don't like it, even fresh on the bone. Pork and turkey are the favourites here with beef rounding up into third place. They like rabbit too but its hard to come by for a reasonable price

Nope, not really. And I really don't think any method like this is suitable for pet dog owners - weighing into a dog fight gets a lot of people hurt - and the dog learns that biting gets a person to back off. I think the OP did the right thing rehoming the dog. Pet dog ownership shouldn't require a whip and a chair.

With such a sensible attitude, agility might be possible. Is he a Scottie? What about seeing if he likes earth dog work??

If you are worried about stress on an older dog, scratch flyball and agility - they are not low impact sports. RallyO perhaps?

Pup has been checked but I'd be double checking, particularly at the back of the mouth where a CP might be missed.

Possibly one of the silliest things I've read here in quite some time - and dangerous to boot. Please tell me you aren't a dog trainer. I can think of no respected trainer who thinks that the way to treat dog aggression is with more aggression. Most larger dogs are more than capable of "winning" a dog fight with a human being if they mean business - what tripe. Go read up on redirected aggression before you dispense this kind of advice. ANY training method that potentially encourages a dog to bite a person is unsafe. Period.

The foundation of an agility dog is control on the flat (just as it is with show jumping and horses) You own a dog that is going to develop into a powerful and tenacious breed. I would suggest obedience training to develop her responsiveness and your teamwork before commencing agility. Amstaffs aren't what I'd call an ideal agility shape but there are dogs that compete successfully.

I would wait another 6 months. He's still a fair way off full physical maturity and the bitch won't cycle again before then (with any luck). Marking behaviour may never happen and I'd not use desexing as means of preventing it. My 15 year old FEMALE poodle marks (outside) so I'd not put it down to sexual entirity or maturity in a dog. I never had tests before desexing young dogs.

The same way the pup is getting out?

Sorry, nowhere NEAR as safe, especially if dogs can get INTO the yard.

Escaping is self rewarding behaviour - and she's already learned how. You need to stop this NOW. The risk to her safety is considerable. The risk of her being seized is also considerable What sort of bottom do your fences have? Can she see under them? I'd be building a concrete floored run ASAP.

I think its valid to use "rescue" as a reason for not having a complete background knowledge of a dogs' genetic, environmental or behavioural history. Using your analogy, it explains why there are gaps in that history. However, using "rescue" as a reason for the way a dog behaves stretches the term too far IMO. I think that poor genetics and poor socialisation are probably more common reasons for dogs' fear than abuse, but in the end we are all only speculating. Far better to deal with the behaviour up front rather than justify or explain why it is present.