Salukifan

Intelligent dogs simply have higher IQs. They are capable of learning more things, faster and applying them better. Biddable dogs are interested in pleasing you. The two characteristics are separate IMO. Both may be present or absent in a dog or a dog may have one of either.

The trick, which NEVER happens in these situations, is to keep an open mind and ask questions about everything.

No one is saying that breed alone is what makes dogs dangerous. And you most definitely cannot say that any dog of a particular breed will be dangerous OR safe (hence the lunacy of BSL). But if you're going to say that a breed bred specifically to aggress towards unknown humans (and there are such breeds) will be statistically more likely to bite than one bred to display no aggression towards humans be they known or unknown then I'd say that is a total no brainer. And when, with no thought to a dog's function, levels of triggering to aggression, HA, bite inhibtiion and bite threshold, you MIX breeds then I'd say you are increasing the chances of issues.

How will weight pulling help with hip dysplasia?

Could be transferred aggression. This is the kind of behaviour that sees dogs bite leads or their owners when they can't reach the object of their aggression - can be frustration based too.

OMG - for once I am in complete agreement with you on that. Levels of reactivity, bite thresholds and bite inhibition MATTER. So does the overall size of the dog in terms of the damage it can do. But size is not the only determinant of a dog's level of threat - genes DO matter to a degree. And, most importantly with powerful dogs with low triggers to react and low bite inhibition so does socialisation. As Karen Delise, any dog is only as dangerous as it's owner allows it to be. This dog would have been totally safe if it had been secured away from the child. And as for bull/guarding breed mixes?? Cross dogs bred for low bite inhibition and low triggers to react but with no HA with a guarding breed with a high bite threshold but more prone to HA and do the math on that lottery. Add breeders who give no consideration to such factors and then owners with no idea about any of this and who fail to socialise and manage and all I can say is thank God most such dogs are decent animals. But when they ain't....

I wouldn't have thought one incidence constitutes "a history". Really? Just how many times do you consider a dog has to aggress before you consider it has a "history". This wasn't just a yappys/snappy incident with no contact. I've yet to see a dog "tell another dog off" with it in its mouth shaking the shite out of it but perhaps that's just me. Personally I think anyone counselling the OP NOT to take this seriously isn't doing her, her dog or other dogs any favours. There I go ruining things again. Fortunately it seems the OP will be cautious in future - very wise.

I think you, your dog and the little dog were all very lucky. What your dog did was enough to have her declared dangerous and you are lucky that you're not footing a major vet bill. Dogs don't have to leave bite marks to do very serious damage when they shake a small dog – it can rupture internal organs or break their spine. Yes, I'm probably coming across rather negative but there is no way known I'd be risking a repeat of that behaviour in a public dog park with a dog that now has a history of aggression. If you want to find reasons for this, seek professional help. No one can tell you what your dog was doing without observation and qualifications but I can tell you that shaking like that is often a predatory response. Your dog might not have recognised the poodle x as a dog –- wouldn't be the first time that has happened. I would not be exercising her in public offlead areas without seeking professional help first and probably not even then.

As I said, her dog, her choice. My advice was genuine, not condemnatory. I have a dog just like this and I've had to pull dogs off him. But having "ruined" things, I'll withdraw.

M United: Only if you're applying human psychology to what is, for a smaller dog, a natural and sensible caution, now heightened by a bad experience and you discplining her for doing it. What you've taught her with corrections for her fears is that meeting strange dogs makes you, her owner, cranky with her. Your dog, your choice. A dog that goes into serious reaction mode in a dog park is a dog that may well drawn the attention of a dog or dogs that will take issue with her. You have been warned.

I think vets are right cautioning about bones as far as cooked or indigestible (think huge) bones are concerned. I feed Royal Canin and chicken wings or other digestible bone and my dogs do very well on it.

First question: If she is anxious around other dogs, why do you take her to the dog park? She clearly isn't enjoying it anymore. For a nervous, reactive dog, all she needs is to react to the wrong dog and there WIILL be a serious fight. I suggest you stop taking her. I think 'correcting" her for expressing in the loudest possible terms that she wants other dogs to keep away is probably making the situation worse. I suggest you stop doing this and start listening to what she is trying to tell you. Give her the space from strange dogs she so clearly wants and just let her have time with dogs she knows and is relaxed with. :)

Poor little thing.

It's not uncommon for many breeds of dogs to have reached very close to their maximum HEIGHT at around 8 months. However larger breeds of dogs usually have some further height to gain and their growth plates often do not close for some time after that. As has already been recommended, x-raying the growth plates is the only sure fire way to know if a dog has reached its maximum height. Dogs continue to mature after reaching their maximum height and what usually comes is more muscle development. Given that the ANKC Akita Breed Standard does not specify the ideal weight for a mature Akita, I'm a bit perplexed as to why you're so concerned about your pup's (yes he is still a pup) weight. The standard doesn't suggest that within the specified height ranges, larger dogs are preferred. How does he compare to other male Akitas of his age - are you actually showing him now? If he looks far smaller than other males of his age, perhaps you have cause for concern but have you actually benchmarked him against others in the ring yet? Fat dogs weigh more than their lean counterparts - but I'd not consider the fatter dog superior. There's more to a quality show dog than how large it is. I know I'd rather have the best dog in the ring and not merely the biggest.

Royal Canin do a Golden Retriever specific food in Junior and adult. I would ask in the GR breed thread too.

He's a baby puppy. It doesn't mean that his reaction to dogs will remain the same as he matures. The "fun" tends to start at adolescence. You do have the option to put in a safe, fenced and roofed movable run. He can be locked in that when you aren't home. He won't be able to get out and no one will be able to get to him without a pair of bolt cutters. Who told you that? The primary reason dogs tend to become escape artists is boredom and the search for company. I think that advice was very poor. If he's not given sufficient stimulation by you, he will be even keener to find it for himself. I'd be walking him regularly once he's old enough.

You go very very early, or very very late. :)

The door is open for breed recognition for breeds of Australian origin with the Tenterfield Terrier the most recent breed of Australian origin to achieve ANKC recognition. Its up to the breed fanciers to put forward the request in accordance with the guidelines. Sometimes they don't view ANKC recognition as being in the best interests of the breed and that's their perogative. Given that all the gundogs that compete in field and retrieving trials are ANKC registered and that there is a register for Associate dogs (non-pedigreed) to compete in obedience and agility and a Sporting Register (working breeds recognised by non-ANKC registries), perhaps perceptions that the ANKC registry is "all about showing" need revisiting. Most of the dog sports in this country are conducted under the auspices of the ANKC. Only a fraction of ANKC registered dogs compete in the show ring. The overwhelming majority are pedigreed pets.

For what? Huh? I really don't understand that the OP proposed to report. That the dog wasn't under effective voice control? The owner didnt' call it. That the owner didnt' seem to give a toss that her dog was annoying others and did nothing when it was brought to their attention? Not a reportable issue as far as I can ascertain. Lets not forget that the encounter was orignally agreeable to both owners. You want a high level of control and courtesy fromm other users in a public dog park? Easily fixed. Go when the park is empty. Otherwise, expect more of the same. Or find one that is divided into big and small dog sections and hope that people actually respect the divide.

It isn't recognised in Australia. Given that they were developed to use their bark to work sheep, I wonder how suitable they would be as pets in the 'burbs.

For what?

There are range of incontinence medications - propalin, stilboestral... I would talk to your vet about it. I've also heard that Bowen can produce good results. I have a older male at home on Propaplin and a older female poodle on Stilboestral. The propaplin is a twice a day every day medication and the stilboestral is now down to once a month. It pays to remember that any "alternative" therapies that require ingestion are still drugs - untested drugs mostly with unknown side effects for the most part. Sometimes conventional drugs are the best option. Just out of interest, how old was she when she was desexed?

I think you'll be hard pressed to find anyone recommending Supercoat. She should try to spend a bit more on decent food while the pup is growing at least. She'll be able to feed less of it because its more nutritious and she could stretch it out by feeding RMBs for some meals.

I would still suggest a visit to a decent canine chiropractor. That's a lot of painkillers for sore muscles!

A weaned pup is also perfectly capable of chewing kibble. Turning it to much just encourages tartar build up.