Erny

That's fantastic, Superminty!

I have a lot of respect for Dr Jean Dodds. I spoke with her a long time ago and do believe there is a connection between thyroid issues and cruciate break-downs. That this article is suggesting a connection between cruciate break-downs and auto-immune issues makes sense to me, as thyroid issues + auto-immune issues are also often hand-in-hand. I think there's much in the thoughts behind that article that would do well to be taken into account.

Hi cavNrott - my opinion on it is this (and it's based in personal logic rather than science, per se). The hot water breaks down the plant cells making the nutrition the tea provides available for absorption. If this were not the case, no one would gain benefit from ANY tea 'out there' for the various therapeutic benefits that the various teas are each prescribed. There would be less nutritional/therapeutic benefit left in the tea after steeping because much has been eked out to the water, but that's not to say there would be none remaining at all, so to me it's a "waste not want not" type approach. I broke my previous coffee plunger that I used for the purpose and bought a replacement the other day. The new one is fairly useless as it doesn't strain well. My previous one filtered very well and no spent tea leaves passed through. I'm on the look-out for a better one than the one I have now. . Glad it is helping with that. Unless he HAS to be shampoo'd due to gross filth (e.g. something he rolled in etc. etc), why not ask the groomers to wash him with the Calendula instead of shampoo, seeing as he is scurfing up after their bathing? Or speak with Steve (DOL) and source out a natural based shampoo the groomer can use instead? That is possible. I'm not against AC vinegar - it has many great uses - but I prefer Calendula because it is not in any way astringent. Mild/benign yet commonly effective.

Look at diet. Game meat such as roo I find is the least 'heating' meat protein. Combo vegetables (pureed is best). Look at the 'recipe' recommended by Augustine Approved as a guide. Keep it simple and as 'clean' (i.e. pure) as you can. In the meanwhile, bath your dog with Calendula Tea and feed him the spent tea with his meal. Using these techniques amongst others, I avoided all use of cortisone and antibiotics with my dog.

You didn't fail him. Whilst you don't know his final outcome (let's hope he is home, safe and well), you don't know that if you HADN'T stopped and did what you did he might already have made his way into traffic and been hit. Whichever way the event unfolded, you forestalled that event and potentially changed a fate for the better. Manoeuvring on a freeway is awkward at the best of times. You managed in a very unmanageable situation and you had to take safety for ALL into consideration. You tried and tried your best. No one could ask more. Nor should you.

I think you should be focusing on the behaviour problem first, worry about the sits, drops, recalls etc. later. You can always get private lessons for the latter to keep that side of things going. But over pushing your dog for the sake of instruction in sit, drop, etc. is going to regress progress on the behaviour aspect.

There are some natural deterrents as well. Garlic is one. There's a lemon based spray that can be used on bedding etc. Check with Steve (DOL Member) as she knows a fair bit in the natural range (knows a fair bit about lots, in point of actual fact, lol ). The natural side of things won't likely to be effective on its own if there is a big flea problem, but it can help in maintenance and if the flea population is not huge, may be all you need rather than needing to use the chemical based flea treatments, especially as your dog is sensitive.

Also think about what your attitude is when you indicate to her to go to the laundry for bed-time. In addition, ask her to go to her bed in the laundry at other random times ..... not always to close the door and retire for the night. And yes .... make it a good event. Not as a food lure (i.e. bribe) but give her a tasty 'special' treat once she's there. If she wants to eat it, great. If she doesn't, that's up to her. Comparing the comments/description given in your first post against further comment in a following post from you, I'm not convinced she's showing nervousness about going to bed, but more a reluctance. If there is nervousness, consider whether that may be a response to your tone and expression when she is not accepting your command to go to bed.

Calendula Tea can be used just about anywhere. Agree about Vet check for infection. Be careful of using cotton bud - don't reach too far down or damage could be done. Best to use a cotton ball or make-up remover pad and only clean around the outer part of the ear that you can see.

Agree here too, but reflecting on Steve's post (quoted by me, above) it also could relate to diet and the other things administered to the dogs.

This is exactly what I've been driving at too. Totally agree here too :). My understanding (based in my experience of the hair-dna and subsequent supplementation for Mum) has been that the prescribed herbal mix is presented in a 'balance'.

Tumeric is one high up on the list of herbs having anti-cancer properties. As the main-stream diet, I'd be inclined to go for as natural as possible, aiming for meat and veggies and also aiming for preservative free etc. etc. I'd also be working to avoid adding any chemical based drugs to my dog's system. In fact, I'd be looking to go totally chemical free. But it is often not just a matter of selecting "one" thing, as there can be other herbs/foods which are required to assist with maximum absorption etc. etc. I believe Augustine Approved have had some success in dealing with cancer in dogs - they have been working on this angle for quite some time. I am not familiar with it in any shape or form, but you might like to contact him via the Augustine Approved website to at least enquire. Personally speaking - I've had success with "Black Salve" on skin related cancers and have in fact been able to avoid surgery that was otherwise recommended/insisted upon. All sign of the cancer has disappeared. I hope you find success and good on you for looking into other supportive options to help your dog be the best he can be :) .

I'd be super angry if that turns out to be the case, Sas. My understanding is that a machine is used.

Hi Dr Bruce I go through Ross Wilson who works from Coburg Health & Nutrition in Coburg (Victoria). 03 9354 8007

This ^ . Perhaps the vet and the assumed diagnosis is right, but I think the situation deserves more checking.

My faith and confidence in hair-DNA analysis continues to rise. The hair tells the story of what the body is lacking. It gives good direction on what supplements the body needs to get its system working to as optimum as possible. Saves a good deal of guess work along the way. In the meantime, Calendula Tea wash/leave-in rinse to sooth the symptoms until you find out what is causing your dog's symptoms. Cortison thins the skin.

Don't worry, Terri S - you're putting enough thought into it to safely say that you're being conscientious and when people do that, I tend to find that mistakes (which do happen) aren't that monumental and our dogs (bless them and thank goodness) are very forgiving for all the wrong that we humans do. So relax, find the rhythm and look for progress. If there's progress, then it is working. Don't be too nervous - instead, enjoy the training-journey. It's fun, even to recognise its ups and downs and our little goof-ups along the way :) .

In terms of correction collars, I quite like a good quality martingale if no more is required and the dog responds and learns from its proper use. But a martingale needs to be fitted properly too. I see a lot of people using martingales that have them fitted too loosely and as a result, in effect they might as well be working off a flat collar. The martingale should be fitted higher on the dog's neck than a general flat collar would sit and should fit snugly. Many people suggest training collars fit very high on the dog's neck (directly behind the dog's ears). Personally I don't prefer this wherever possible this can be avoided, as this is the area where the dog's wind-pipe is the most exposed. BUT I agree that if a dog has excessive loose skin, a martingale may not have to fit as tightly as a flat collar for the mere purpose of not being able to slip it as the martingale (if fitted properly) will tighten, helping to prevent being slipped. Hope that makes sense. ETA: If using the check as you would a "half-halt" with horses works, then that's good. Less is more, in my books. But you do need to be looking for the dog not only responding to those so-to-speak "half-halt" checks at the time they are delivered, but also for the dog to be putting tension on the leash less and less frequently - otherwise the dog is not really learning to walk on a loose leash but is learning to respond off the "half-halt" cues you're giving. Of course, as you've mentioned, positive rewards play a huge part in training. I prefer to think slightly in reverse of what is commonly stated : Give the dog positive reward when he's giving the loose lead and check via the leash when he's not. (i.e. rather than thinking in the opposite order.) Although to many that might seem and mean the same either way, I find it quite amazing how the order of things we think in subconsciously affects the emphasis we place on what. I also make mental note in each session of how much positive reward the dog has received compared to how much correction the dog has received. If each could be weighed up in terms of pounds/kilograms, the positive should ideally far outweigh the corrections, and the mores the better.

:laugh: Love this analogy.

I agree with the above. Every tool/equipment has its place and I have employed both harness and head-collar (not simultaneously and not necessarily to same dog) from time to time. But I have used these for a specific "control" purpose and reasons whilst other training methods are engaged to train the dog away from behaviours which are undesirable. Part of what I'm not keen on with both items but in this instance especially harnesses, is the affect it has on the dog's natural gait and skeletal alignment. That has a negative affect on the dog that isn't necessarily immediately evident but with long term and "ignorant" use can cause problems to the dog's body that may last for a long time and possibly ever. These sorts of things are "anecdotal" as the impact doesn't show up as a direct correlation to these sorts of training aids, and consequently often (quite conveniently for those who push them in preference to other training aids for whatever their reasoning might be) fall under the radar of causing physical harm. Regardless, we should be aware of the potential impact and if these items are used, should be used with empathy to that end and with the mind-set of temporary use and as a means to an end. Just as any training aid should be used.

"Overactive" ??? Very rare for a dog to be hyper-thyroidic. Usually in dogs it is hypo-thyroidic (i.e. under active). Opposite for cats - if they have a thyroid condition it is "hyper" (over-active).

I agree that it isn't always that simple - but it generally is what the point of focus needs to remain at, until you can pin-point the problem. In the meantime, natural supplements such as slippery elm for an irritated stomach or colin, or calendula for skin irritations/eruptions such as this thread and another currently running have been talking about (amongst other things) can be used to assist - but not on its/their own to cure if the cause persists. Regards the psyliium - I understand it's a matter of finding the right amount that is the key. My understanding is that it is used for constipation as well as for diarrhoea - too much can exacerbate loose stools. But Steve is the better person to ask/check this in this respect. My point is, don't throw the baby out with the bath water. Admittedly, I found slippery elm didn't firm up my boy's stools. But that's because I hadn't even closely 'nailed' what the problem was, and so it was persisting. However, there is the possibility at the time that it did help to protect his gut from the irritation the 'diet/s' I trialled him on (one by one) were contributing to.

Just out of interest, have you (or anyone else reading here) tried goat? With my boy's intolerances to numerous meat protein sources, goat was something I stumbled across at our local wholesale butcher's so I bought it, hoping that he'd go well on it and be able to accept it for the bone component as well as for the meat source. But he won't have a bar of it. Anyone else tried it out with their dogs and with what degree of success? Haven't tried goat for my dogs, but I love a goat curry myself :D

Just out of interest, have you (or anyone else reading here) tried goat? With my boy's intolerances to numerous meat protein sources, goat was something I stumbled across at our local wholesale butcher's so I bought it, hoping that he'd go well on it and be able to accept it for the bone component as well as for the meat source. But he won't have a bar of it. Anyone else tried it out with their dogs and with what degree of success?

Really sorry to hear your story - it's an awful 'place' to be in when you just don't know which way to turn. Yes, it's a lot of money and yes, it's normal to be ok about spending it if you can expect a good outcome. I don't speak from experience - others here will follow this post I'm sure, with their own stories and you can take what you prefer to take from those. Personally, I think it is a "crystal ball" matter until and unless you get an MRI done. The MRI should be able to tell you (a) confirmation that it is tumour or not and (b) the specialist should be able to give a reasonable prognosis from that and from there you would be able to make a decision as to whether you proceed or not. But yes - I believe MRI's are exxy too. I think that's your first step, if you're looking for some definitive direction. Unless you take this, it will just be a guessing game. Just my thoughts - not based in personal experience. I trust others will be able to be a bit more informative than I am here. ETA : I had a different case which began with a tumour on the adrenal gland. My girl was being readied for surgery (had to be on certain drugs for a certain number of days before surgery could be done) - it was tricky dicky surgery requiring a team of surgeons, but the prognosis was promising. She threw to seizures a few days before surgery and the specialist Vet at the time very confidently ruled in that the brain was now affected. For my girl, given the complications, running an MRI would have been an academic exercise. I maintained Kal (bhcs) on seizure medication for a few months or so but due to the adrenal gland tumour (which would have eventually erupted causing a dreadful end) I had to make the ultimate choice to give her freedom before such suffering. I'm not suggesting this is the case for your dog - the specialist should be able to help you draw some conclusions/judgements/decisions. I would at the very least consult with the specialist and let him/her help to guide your thinking. Again, sorry. My heart goes to you. It's so hard when you don't know a direction to take.