Erny

..... no one. It was completely my silly assumption. Of course you can collar condition for other collar styles as well. This would include the RT spray collars as well as other more commonly used training tools.

Collar conditioning doesn't guarantee against dogs becoming collar smart, but there is a chance. Generally 2 weeks is what I recommend. But once training begins I still recommend people continue with the collar conditioning in between training sessions as well (assuming you are using a RT to train with).

Oh ...... another one of those "freedom" threads!!! I wonder why the term "never mind"? I mean, you might not mind. But how can you never mind? Never say never .................

Did you ask the trainer/person who gave you this advice what it was intended to achieve? Unless there is something missing from the recount of the event, the problem seems to be associated only with being at the groomers and/or being brought out of the crate (in an unfamiliar .... and noisy environment) by an unfamiliar person (ie groomer). I don't understand where crating and tying out in her own territory where she is familiar and comfortable is supposed to anywhere near address the problem. And I don't understand where tying out is supposed to help whichever the environment. I always hesitate to give opinion in this situations as what is related can often be simply a recount of the recipient's interpretation of the intent .... no offence to you intended GtS. This is why, rather than asking here what the trainer/person meant by it, it is best to clarify it with the person who gave you the information. If you're then unsure whether that information/advice is wise and wish to 'sound' it out here, you're in a position to give further information so we can all at least see (read : hear) the trainer/person's 'reasoning' and have some idea of whether it might be likely (or not) to achieve anything.

Thanks for the responses .

Good luck Moyu - fingers are crossed for the best possible diagnosis result. This is going to sound silly because it is such a basic thing that I presume your Vet would have by now ruled in or out one way or the other. But I presume tests were done to check for thyroid issues?

Is that where the Vet gave the injection .... in her middle back?

Although it is impossible to tell without seeing your dog, on the small amount of information that you've written it sounds as though your dog could be barking due to either : fear; excitement; territory guard ..... or a combination of all or one or two of the aforementioned. Working out the "cause" of the barking is the first step. If you only address the symptom but the cause remains, it is often unsuccessful. I agree with Persephone. You need to engage the services of a trainer/behaviourist who is capable of working through this with you to get to the root/s of the problem, and then help you begin to unravel it, which would involve a program your trainer/behaviourist would set out for you to follow .

LOL ..... that wouldn't be a picture of Turtle during a storm in your signature picture, would it?

No - pretty much only what I posted. This reference made : "As I am in a heartworm risk area and given the mozzies have come out ... ". Good point about the 'fasting'. Wondering on how people go when they aren't to feed their dogs for one reason or another (eg. prior to surgery etc.). Does this count for not giving the dog the tablet as well? Or is this one of those "deal with it when it comes up as with luck it's not likely to occur with any frequency" things? Yep .... I think I'm over-thinking it.

I'm thinking I will do this, IR. Does it have anything on the label that suggests what you have to do if you even only miss ONE day's dose? Also, can you tell me where you purchase yours through (PM me with this if you'd prefer). I have done a bit of net surfing and the price is around $7.26 AUS (including GST) for 200mg (100 tabs). $56.10 (inc GST) for 1000 tabs. ...... does the label have a "used by" date? Because that many tabs would keep one dog going for almost 3 years. I think I'd be better off with the 100 tab canister as I only have a single dog. As an aside, I note the 200mg 1000 tab "refill pack" is quite a bit cheaper ..... $37.95. I'm not worried - I'll buy whatever is the best for pup. ETA : Just as an aside .... I'm wondering. Thinking ahead of time and somewhat hypothetically. Let's say I have Mandela on the Dimmitrol daily tabs. But then something happens where I need to go away for a lengthy stay (can't see it happening for me but it might be relevant for someone else) and I don't want to burden (or for that matter, trust) the person I leave him with to look after with having to remember the daily tab. Can I switch over to, say, Heartgard and then after 45 days, switch back to Dimmitrol daily? I'm presuming not. But honestly, trying to read, understand and compare chemical compounds from one item to another about does my head in.

I have received a response back from Dr. Jean Dodds (she is so good in giving her time and responding promptly and by this post I extend my warm thanks, as this is not the only query I've had cause to make to her). I have acknowledged to Dr. Jean that I realise there are no guarantees in life (save for taxes) and so advice I take from her is merely calculated educated risks. I know you are interested in what she tells me so I reiterate it here. Dr. Jean has said she does not prefer selamectin (I think this is the ingredient in Revolution - not sure if it is in other spot-ons) for parasite prevention/control, as apparently this potent drug has no effective antedote. As I am in a heartworm risk area and given the mozzies have come out, she has suggested either plain daily Dimmitrol [available again over internet] or plain monthly Heartgard or Interceptor given every 45 days -- not every 30 days. Apparently published studies from France have shown that these products fully protect against exposures in the prior 45 days. The only potential problem with this schedule is writing down when the next dose is due -- start at beginning of one month and repeat half way into the next month etc. I think the above agrees with what most of you are already doing and it will be the protocol that I too will follow. I haven't yet decided what I'm likely to best remember to give. Daily Dimmitrol ( I have trouble remembering to take my own thyroid meds, although knowing me I'll remember better on behalf of my dog than I do for myself ), or the Heartgard every 45 days. It might have been said (or perhaps I recall it being mentioned in Dr. Jean's link article I put up .... will have to re-read) but what is the period of grace (if any) that you have if you do forget to give either the Dimmitrol or the Heartgard? In my email to Dr. Jean I informed her that I have not and am not experiencing a flea or mite problem (touch wood) and therefore proposed that I do not believe I need to treat for that. Dr. Jean didn't object to that philosophy. Thank you everyone for your thoughts and suggestions and I know that what has been discussed here will be found to be helpful by those who read. Cheers! Erny

At the first signs of the onset of Mandela's first storm we began playing in the yard. When the rain threatened to become heavy we moved up onto the (largish) roof covered decking and played some more. The harder it rained (which meant the noisier it became on the decking roof) the more intense we played (ie I heightened the motivation). We did this right throughout the lightening as well as the hail storm that followed. It was fortunate that this first storm was short lived and that the lightening strikes (and hence the ensuing thunder) was not close. A good "starter" storm for Mandela's socialisation experiences.

You'd be right, Joypod. Back when I fed it to Kal (for a period ... not for an entirety) digestive upsets were not her immediate issue. That, and I know more now than I knew back then. I would be surprised if you didn't find this worthwhile. Good luck and be sure to let us all know what you ended up doing and how it is going.

Me too.

Well heeeellllllllllllllllooooooooooo stranger!!! Hope you're well. And hope we'll see you around a bit in this forum and I can catch up (other than via a 'common' friend - you'll know whom I mean ) with some of the stuff you're up to.

Thanks for posting the above, Charles. My avatar girl was suspected of having Cushings at one point and I recall I looked up and read much information about it. I actually remember hoping the diagnosis would be Cushings as I knew that it would possibly give us options and was by far a better diagnosis than the alternative. Sadly this was not to be the case and I had no alternative other than to give my girl her 'wings' after a length of palliative care a couple of years ago. So there's definitely hope for your dog Moyu and I wish you all the best for the best possible outcome in the diagnosis. OT : Charles .... I know your seminar in Melbourne is fast approaching and I would like to try to arrange to attend. I'm hoping there will still be placements left by the time I can re-arrange my schedule . Cheers Erny

For different reason other than yours, my previous girl couldn't be fed bones. I used to brush her teeth a few times a week and this helped to reduce tartar build up and also provided some massage effect to her gums. Anything that relates to dietary issues I don't go past seeking the advice of Dr. Bruce Syme in Castlemain. Kal had sensitive stomach issues as well and he was very helpful and knowledgeable and was certainly worth the 2.5 hour trip I made. I don't like pulling people away from the Vets they are comfortable with, nor do I intend to. Only suggesting this because perhaps there is another way other than to pulling your dog off raw feeding completely and perhaps a second opinion would help. Phone Number contact : (03) 5472 5477 ETA: Kal also received "TD Science Diet" as an added extra following her meals. These were not given with any nutritional factor in mind (as I don't think there are any) but they are designed so that the 'crunch' serves as an abbrasive to help clean the dog's teeth.

But isn't that the point, NAO? I mean, if the animal is already infected with heartworm and if Revolution does begin to kill the worms, isn't it the worms dying and rotting (yes, there's a better scientific/technical name for this but I can't remember it) within the heart that causes the problem?

Cassie - if your dog knows the 'drop from sit' command well, you might need to change your command for the teaching of 'drop from stand'. Sometimes dogs simply catch on without a change in command - perhaps they are the ones who find it really comfortable to drop from a stand anyway. Just something to keep in mind.

However there are Cushing's cases aren't there, that are well treated and maintained for a reasonable longevity? Good luck Moyu. Fingers crossed for your girl. ETA: There is a heap of information to be found on the internet in relation to Cushings. I had the links stored in my old computer, but something's gone wrong and I can't access them. If you post in the health forum they'll be able to help you more there.

Interesting article, Leema .... thank you . Haven't finished reading it through yet, but found this part of particular interest :- Oh .... and I understand now that the temperature needs to be 14C or warmer continuously for two weeks. In otherwords, day and night. Although I do note the variation that can occur in sheltered areas around the home (eaves, etc.) Still reading ..............

No - I wasn't aware of that. Thank you Leema. But 14C ??? That's pretty cold for mozzies isn't it?

If he is still a bit flat or otherwise not himself/well .... I'd be guarded about having him have the vaccinations. Even if he has bounced back, make a point of telling your Vet that in the past week he wasn't exactly on top of the world. I give a dose of Active Manuka Honey if I suspect anything wrong. Can't hurt. Can only help.

Hi Glorybea .... First clue here is that she is not sufficiently solid enough in her ISS to be able to progress to OSS, IMO. And you need to have the ISS's solid for a considerably longer distance than you have at the moment. Avoid working up distance too quickly. Work up time and distraction and then distance and distraction. When (and only when) you achieve solid ISS's and have proofed them under distraction with distance, then proceed to OSS's. When you begin the OSS's, remain out of sight for only a quick second (eg. walking around and behind a largish tree trunk and straight back into sight again.) Have your dog at at least half the distance (in fact even closer) than what she can cope with in stays when you're in sight, for your initial out of sight exercises. Build up the time you are out of sight in small increments. Giving her 'feedback' by returning to her and giving low level praise (so as to not have her break) as you are doing is good. Frequency of returning goes hand in hand with how she is able to cope with time and distance.