Dog_Horse_Girl

Greyhounds are supposed to be lean...muscular...athletic. If your greyhound is too thin, you will be able to see the whole spine, pin bones (at hips), and he would also be very lethargic and have a horrible, dull coat. IMO you can buy better processed foods than Iams/Euk. Opt for something like Eagle Pack or Royal Canin...or switch to a raw, whole foods approach if you feel able to do this. Also stop leaving the food down - this doesn't keep you in the Leader position and it doesn't encourage the dogs to eat the meal when fed. Just a suggestion... Lilly went through stages of gaining/losing weight. I found that lamb flaps help in re-gaining condition and as a bonus, she loves them! They're expensive up here at $5 per kg but much cheaper elsewhere...Darwin is expensive for everything though.

I thought I'd provide an update on Molly: She's been stable on her dose of Phenomax since diagnosis last March/April. No seizures when we've been home/with her, none also the two times she's been in boarding. No evidence of any seizure activity at all. :D I'm as careful as can be with the timing of her dose but sometimes, it's off by as much as two hours. :rolleyes: Rare, but it does happen. Last night, with Cyclone Helen approaching, I fed the dogs an hour earlier than usual and gave Molly her dose at that time. And we were a tad late in getting breakfast this morning with no apparent issues. She had her annual checkup in November and the vet didn't recommend checking her levels but waiting until March/April again so we have a year's gap between initial onset and second review. But so far, everything looks and seems great. I hate to get too positive though as I know things can and do change without warning with epilepsy. :D Hugs to all our special epi dogs. :D

Yes, but burying the bones/meat helps to preserve it. Leaving meat on a bench at room temperature causes bacteria (both good and bad) to multiply at a very fast rate. IMO this isn't worth the (small but real) risk. My dogs are fed raw...their meals are defrosted in the fridge - never at room temperature. If I'm in a hurry, two minutes on defrost in the microwave oven at a time until they're thawed but never warm - this usually takes no more than four minutes. Chicken poses the greater risk according to everything I've read and two trusted vets. :rolleyes:

Some processed dry foods use a particular colour and preservative combination (I can't recall which two/three products cause it) where the chemical reaction results in green-tinged poo... I've seen it a few times and it's a bit alarming! Try changing to a more fresh diet, perhaps? :rolleyes:

Can't you read? How on earth did you come to that conclusion? Yes, I can read. I didn't come to any conclusion, but I did pose a question.

Oh for goodness sake That comment reminds of me of all the those male dog owners who refuse to desex because they think it is a threat to their own masculinity! These are dogs, not humans, and desexed dogs still have sex drive, whether it is driven by hormones or instinct. Lots of breeders have desexed dogs who act as ovulation detectors. A trusted vet put it to me that way. No need to roll your eyes...it helps some people to understand why desexing is preferable. Are you also implying that dogs aren't driven by their hormones when left entire?

I've always ended up desexing my dogs. For me, it's the right thing to do, for my own dogs but also looking at the bigger picture. Every day in this country, countless dogs, cats, pups and kittens are killed for no reason other than they are "unwanted". Many of them come from litters that were never planned nor intended, and from animals owned by people with "good intentions" but not enough ability to ensure unwanted pregnancies did not occur. Not only that, but in the individual animal, desexing will help the animal become a more settled and balanced companion. Why? Imagine being an entire male dog. The hormones produced by the animal ensure it is driven to mate with any bitch that seems receptive. A male can smell a bitch in season for at least one kilometre. So your dog can smell bitches that he can't see, and he wants to mate with them b/c that's what his biology and physiology is telling him to do. So he gets out of the yard and goes in search of these bitches. In doing this, he has to cross busy roads (and if really unlucky, he will be hit and badly injured but left by the road-side b/c the driver doesn't think to stop), run the gauntlet of other males also with sex on the brain, perhaps getting into a fight or two over territory, and possibly then being harmed by a person in defence of their bitch (which is understandable). If this doesn't sway you, then imagine this: you have your bits intact, you're a teenage male, you've been shown a beautiful naked woman who is standing on the opposite side of the room to you, and then you are told: you can look, but you can never touch, you can never have sex, but you're free to keep the testicles that drive this sexual desire. Do you think that would be an enjoyable life? Because keeping a male entire when you have no reason to have him mate is doing just that.

Oh, I'm so sorry to hear this KW. My thoughts are with you all at this awful time. Juliet - run free sweetie! :rolleyes:

If you haven't already done so, could I suggest a visit to your vet for their advice and opinions on these products? Everyone here uses a particular product b/c they have found what works for their dogs and their situations. For example, my dogs are all on Interceptor Spectrum, covering all intestinal worms and heartworm. It's a single dose tablet given monthly. As we live in Darwin, fleas can be a problem, as can brown dog (cattle) ticks. For those, when I see a flea or tick on one of the dogs, I use Frontline Plus in the single-dose NOT the spray. It took some "trial and error" for me to discover what my dogs tolerate the best and what is most effective for the pests/parasites in question. Some vets make recommendations that don't work; others make recommendations that do work but that you can't afford if you buy from your vet clinic. I buy my products from priceless pets (www.pricelesspets.com.au). They're the cheapest I've found and the products always have plenty of time before expiring.

KW I'm so so sorry for your loss. Rex is at the Bridge, tell him to keep an eye out for my Aussie boy who also passed on 27 December (2001). Please give your Mum my sincere condolences for her loss.

Aussie was my ACD x Staffordshire BT who died aged 13.5 yrs on 27 December 2001. He was the first dog I had that was 'just mine', the previous dogs I'd had were family dogs. Aussie was a great dog - a true-blue bloke that liked a run on the beach, fetching a ball (bringing it back wasn't high on his agenda though! ), piddling on everything, good tucker (no wait, anything that may have once resembled food!), and hanging out with his humans. He saw me through some difficult times and was there when things were good too. He didn't ask for much but gave me so much love and devotion...as long as there was a game and a pat at the end of the day, he was happy. In his final year, he developed canine dementia, a touch of arthritis, a dodgy heart, and assorted minor ailments. He became smelly, forgetful and started toileting inside the house. He also stopped coming when called and started sleeping in his kennel despite the fact that he hadn't used it for years AND it was stood on its end to discourage him from using it (we were worried about spiders at that stage, and he wouldn't leave the kennel once he got in there). Aussie, you were a good friend. Steve and I both miss you and hope to meet you at the Rainbow Bridge when the time is right. Have fun over there and remember, "We love you, Aussie-Boy!". :cool:

Robert McDowell dog treatments Daisy, Robert McDowell is my pick of holistic practitioners. Here's a link to his site, his skin allergy mix has worked wonders for Ruby. I sent an e-mail and got a reply within a day or two. I followed his suggestions (skin allergy mix, blood poisoning mix) and they had an affect within a week. It was amazing to see her go from constantly scratching, bleeding skin, hair loss...to a normal dog with almost no scratching, no irritation. :cool:

I'm so glad I'm not the only one to make that mistake - except I bought mackeral not sardines. The dogs loved them!

Annie, please don't be too concerned about this. Ruby had a similar reaction one year to her C5 shot. There has been nothing sinister since then. Some dogs are just a little more sensitive at times - Ruby is an allergic dog too (and was well before we adopted her). Lilly also had a lump form after a C5 shot one year...I think it might have been the year we adopted her as it was the only time she developed this lump. It *was* the same vet and I think same year so it *might* have been technique or perhaps something slightly different in the vaccine itself. Adverse reactions should indeed be reported. IF you feel strongly about this, then request your vet does just that, but IMO it's nothing more than a very minor response to an injection.

Try Robert McDowell... Robert McDowell's herbal treatments They really work. We use the Skin Allergy mix for Ruby and it works very effectively!

Second the idea of getting a crate. Does it have to an airline one, or could it be her regular crate that she also uses inside? Airline crates are recommended for travel by road too. For the same reasons as they're used for plane trips. It protects the dog from impact - a wire crate will contain the dog, but not protect it from a collision impact.

I agree that the problem seems to be with being forced to travel on the back of a ute...many dogs are literally terrified of being transported like this. They don't feel physically secure which creates anxiety, which builds with every trip they have to endure. Firstly, I would help your pup adjust to travel by road. This won't be a quick or easy process. But it's important that you recognise how stressed she is by car travel. If it's at all possible, stop taking her on the back of the ute and put her in the passenger cab. Put a harness on her and tether her in. Or put her in an airline approved crate. This gives her a feeling of security and will reduce her stress levels. Secondly, avoid travelling with your toddler as you cannot focus on the pup's wellbeing and training if you have a child in the vehicle too. Thirdly, make the vet a fun and happy experience for your pup. Don't have anything done in the next few visits, just go every day, ensure she is given treats and perhaps a game of fetch, and leave before she shows signs of stress. You can help your pup overcome this terrible fear. But you must work with her and recognise what the problems are for her... the vet is but a small part of her anxiety - it's the vehicle that's causing the real distress here.

Many greyhounds have sensitive digestive systems. I don't know why exactly but it could be due to their racing diet...mostly raw mince, weetbix-type cereals, kennel biscuits (soak them in water for a couple of hours otherwise they're like bricks), cooked veg, etc. If you can, feed a raw diet. That means no dry foods at all. Lilly does best on raw, but when she's in boarding, I have to allow dry food so I choose the best option. Currently that's the new Royal Canin Sensitive which doesn't have any animal proteins in it. She did OK on this for a week but is very happy to be back on raw. I don't give Lilly chicken necks but have found she does OK with turkey necks. I usually give her the bigger bones such as lamb neck, turkey wings/necks, brisket, and lamb ribs (flaps), roo tail, and sometimes soup bones if there's not much choice when I shop. She does get chicken pieces (wings, drumsticks) and whatever else I can source from the local supermarket or butcher. About two or three times a week she'll get offal (heart, liver, kidneys) and once a week a bit of veg/fruit. I also give yoghurt (every second or third week), raw eggs (couple a month), sardines/mackeral (once a fortnight)...plus a supplement of fish oil capsules when needed, crushed flaxseed, and occasionally some kelp or alfalfa powder/tablets. She rarely gets a tummy upset. And she's a great weight, very happy, active enough (she's a greyhound ), and only does a couple of small poos per day.

IMO yes, and much better than Advance.

I've only seen RR in drop form, I give it as is to the dog/s in need. The dosage rate is "a few drops often" but I give up to 10 drops at a time with no ill-effects. As I have two thunder-phobic dogs, I don't see the point of diluting the RR in their water bowls...probably wouldn't work too well IMO. But perhaps others have done so with success? I do hear of people suggesting it so I think it must be do-able.

Thanks lillysmum, where do you buy it from in the UK. I didn't know there were collars or sprays, I had only heard of the diffuser. I thought it would be a great idea in the kennels. Pilgrims shopfront, let me see if I can find a link... Pilgrim's Pet Care Much better price than here in Australia...haven't looked since March but will be buying refills again very soon. It's now storm season in Darwin...Rescue Remedy is helping somewhat but the DAP is the business! Oh, the spray is still helping but obviously we have to be home to spray it on their bedding...storms can be a bit random at this time of year.

DAP is ideal for the boarding kennel environment. If only all kennels could be bothered to spend the $$$... We use it at home (Diffuser and spray) and in the car (spray) and if available, I'd use the collars too. I buy my supplies from the UK b/c it's too expensive here.

Racing greyhound bitches are given testosterone injections while racing to stop their heat cycle. I have no idea of the long-term affects of such a therapy and I simply hope that Lilly has no consequences as a result of being given male hormones during her racing and training life. I would always choose to spey a bitch as early as feasible. That's my personal preference due to the management of a bitch in season - others have no issues with not allowing their animal/s off their property when in season; cleaning up the mess during the bleeding phase; dealing with the behavioural and temperament changes that many bitches exhibit when in season...never mind the risks of escape (your bitch) or intrusion (entire males getting onto your property) as she searches for a mate and males try to get to her. Spey incontinence is generally caused due to the removal of the ovaries (which means the female hormones are no longer produced) and this is cheaply and easily rectified by hormone replacement (tablets) that cost a few dollars a year in real terms, and it's certainly much less than any other regular medication such as heartworm preventives or flea control.

Getting the dog off the cheap processed foods and onto a higher quality processed food would be preferable IMO than to attempt a raw foods diet with insufficient knowledge. It's not hard nor time-consuming to research how to do a raw diet properly. The Billinghurst books are easy to read - I read the BARF diet in a day then just kept going back when I needed more info. You need to keep the basic elements in mind: 1. Raw meaty bones make up the bulk of this regimen. Choose the softer bones in preference to hard bones. Shanks for example, are NOT a good choice. Try lamb ribs (flap), neck chops or pieces, or lean off-cuts instead. Choose chicken pieces except drumsticks so necks, wings, frames are all good. Beef brisket is a good choice but neck bones and "soup bones" aren't. 2. Raw offal is essential. Dogs need this for the extra vitamins and minerals organs contain. 3. Sardines or other oily fish are required. 4. Veg and fruits MUST be pulped before serving. I use a juicer and throw out much of the juice, keeping the pulp and a small amount of juice to 'moisten' the mix but not saturate it. Use sparingly - my dogs get plant matter no more than twice per week and they're fed twice daily - so that equals two meals out of fourteen that contain a *very small* quantity of plant matter. How much exactly? My tiny dog gets a teaspoon-full, while the two bigger dogs get a couple of tablespoons-full each. 5. Other extras include plain (non flavoured and non sweetened) yoghurt; raw eggs; some people use supplements but I do this only on an "as needed" basis b/c the diet I provide is fairly good nutritionally-speaking. You'll figure it out as your dog's body responds to the food. But you must IMO research appropriately before switching. However, in the meantime, you *could* get away with just chicken frames (for example) to get you through...this is only a stop-gap measure though.

I suppose it depends on why the breeder recommends ONLY this particular food. If they receive sponsorship, then I'd question that advice - if not, then it may be that she's only ever used this food and hasn't bothered trying others for comparison. Personally, I wouldn't feed anything available in a supermarket perhaps with the exception of nature's gift canned and at a pinch, the Purina Sensitive to mix with another (higher quality) dry food, if I had to choose anything processed. My dogs are all raw fed, but when they go into boarding, I'm forced into providing them a processed (dry) food or accepting what foods the kennels use (usually either HSD or Iams/Euk, none of which I will permit). When I do buy dry foods, I aim for Royal Canin for Lilly (it's the only processed food that doesn't result in explosive liquid poo, but still sees her with runny and copious poo and weight loss even over a week!)...Ruby and Molly can get by on Nutrience but I prefer them on Dick van Patten's Natural Balance Organic Formula (I haven't found a single stockist of DVPNBOF in Darwin). I suppose a little research wouldn't go astray. That's how I decided to switch to a raw, whole foods diet in the first place. My dogs just do better on this approach and your pup may be fine on Optimum but it doesn't hurt to have a good look at what's in your dog's food choices and analyse what that really means to your dog's health.