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Invisable Pet Fences?


PoppyDog
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My only thought with them is that they will be keen enough to 'break the barrier' after something really exciting but might not be quite so keen to come back!

What do you mean? Am thinking of using it in conjuction with a 6ft wooden fence to stop Poppy from going up onto the retaining wall and around onto the pebbles?

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Does anyone use one of these.

The type that you install in your yard and use in conjunction with a collar that your dog wears?

Can anyone tell me about them?

TIA! :(

I spoke with someone last week who used one. The dog regularly got horrible infected sores on his neck from the collar (he is a large heavily coated dog) then when he went hear the boundary he got electric shocks which is how the 'fence' works. The dog ended up getting quite nasty and aggressive... so would I if I was getting electric shocks in my infected pussy neck!

:(

I think the good old fashioned way of building a fenced yard is much better.

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We considered it, and I know some people have used it and found it quite effective. My biggest concern, though, was that while it might keep my dogs in, it wouldn't keep other peoples dogs out. I live on a small acreage and there seems to be few roamers around here.

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My only thought with them is that they will be keen enough to 'break the barrier' after something really exciting but might not be quite so keen to come back!

What do you mean? Am thinking of using it in conjuction with a 6ft wooden fence to stop Poppy from going up onto the retaining wall and around onto the pebbles?

Sounds like a good idea. Used on its own I would be edgy about pups safety / escaping.

We have a climber so ran a thin electric wire around the top of the fence. The dogs seem to be able to smell it, and after one zap they don't go near it again. The climber touched it once, the others haven't gone near it. It is only a small battery powered one. Batteries have gone flat but the dogs can still see the wire, and don't bother climbing. It's much cheaper than the collar system too(especially as mine like to eat each others collars!).

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My only thought with them is that they will be keen enough to 'break the barrier' after something really exciting but might not be quite so keen to come back!

What do you mean? Am thinking of using it in conjuction with a 6ft wooden fence to stop Poppy from going up onto the retaining wall and around onto the pebbles?

Well

You didnt mention that part in the first post, so people are assuming you meant as a boundary system.

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My only thought with them is that they will be keen enough to 'break the barrier' after something really exciting but might not be quite so keen to come back!

What do you mean? Am thinking of using it in conjuction with a 6ft wooden fence to stop Poppy from going up onto the retaining wall and around onto the pebbles?

Well

You didnt mention that part in the first post, so people are assuming you meant as a boundary system.

Not sure how me mentioning that in my first posts relates to my question about AdoubleJ's response. I was asking for clarification what she said about the dog "breaking the barier" and not being so keen to re-enter.

If your dog really wants to get up on the retaining wall area, electric shock therapy will only work for so long. Why not just block off the area?

Thanks! I didn't realise it worked by electric shock! I thought it was a high frequency sound wave type thing. Will explore other ways of blockin off these areas! :(

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Hi there,

I haven't used one myself but have been educated about them as part of my dog behaviour therapy degree in Holland.

Firstly you have to train your dog what the collar means. T

1 Put the collar on it's lowest intensity so as to give only a mild correction. Check this on yourself first and make sure you are happy to be using this on your dog.

2 Set up a learning situation with your dog using a well known and trained command. E.g. the word "No" or "uh-uh" and use this in conjunction with the area you do not want the dog to cross.

3 Have treats and your dogs highest regarded reward ready. Rewards can even be playing with a ball, depends what your dog responds to best.

4 Let your dog roam the area, when he/she approaches the boundary say No. Reward if they back away or zap if they advance.

5 Immediately after you zap your dog call them to you and reward and praise highly, esp. after the first time

If your dog did not respond or feel the zap, make sure that the collar is fitted right and contacts with the skin. Otherwise increase the intensity by 1 notch and repeat the above process. Do this until you see your dog felt it. Don't forget every dog is different. Again I would test the collar on yourself so that you know what your dog experiences and are happy to be using this on your dog.

Once you have found the right intensity that will deter your dog for venturing beyond the boundary you can go to the next step.

Evaluate your dogs response and where you are in the training process. Between 3 - 5 visible responses is a good start and should have introduced the concept of not overstepping the boundary whilst giving the mildest reprimand the collar can give.

PLEASE remember to keep training sessions short, no longer than 10 minutes at a time. You don't want to freak you dog out. If giving multiple sessions in one day have at least 2 hours between them.

6 Repeat steps 4 & 5 in small training sessions until you are confident your dog knows what if requested of him i.e. not to go beyond the boundary.

7 Check his understanding by introducing a mild incentive to cross the boundary. i.e. rolling a ball (only for dogs not highly ball focused!) slowly toward the boundary.

Once you are confident that your dog knows not to cross the boundary whilst wearing the collar you can use the invisible pet fence as intended. Do supervise your dog initially so that you are confident he's not going to get into trouble or react badly.

If leaving the collar on for long periods of time PLEASE remove the collar daily and brush the neck area and check that all is well. This will prevent sores. Should you see the first sign of highly irritated skin or a sore forming STOP the use of the collar immediately.

If dogs are trained to wear electric collars correctly and used with thought they can be an effective tool that we can add to our toolbox of training apparatus.

I purposely haven't given an opinion on what i think of them. That is for you to decide. Everyone knows what is suitable for their own dogs best.

I hope my post was helpful.

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We have a large bushy block (2500sqmts) with additional bush surrounding, but live in a regional town (with neighbours).

We love our "sure guard" containment system. It is made North Coast NSW, not China, and has comprehensive training mode and procedures ( 2 days to train). It uses a warning chime before the dog gets a "correction" zap (an electric shock like a cow fence). You MUST put the training in. It comes with training flags, and the unit blinks if there has been any escape attempts. About $500 much cheaper than fencing for us (plus the risk of jump fence etc)even with the extra wire and flags.

Please look at the material on their website, as it is very comprehensive and I would bore you writing it all here. needless to say the units are not all the same, and after my research I decided on this one.

The person saying about the sores...it must have been a different sytem or not trained properly..i would NEVER let something hurt my dog like that. plus it isn't/wasn't on ALL the time.

Our neighbours also have 2 dogs that use the same system. The dogs go within 1 meter of the boundary but don't cross...thay learn that, and now I don't even have to use it at all.

Of course other dogs can come in etc, but if i am going out for an extended period, i put Sally in a large penned area.

Anyway, in summary be careful about your system you buy (make sure it has training mode), DO the training, and bear in mind that once your dog learns the "Invisible" boundary you won't need it all the time.

You can also ring them for any q's or PM me :(

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My ex & I tried this system many years ago - we had a bitch who was determined to get out, so we put the system in the unfenced area at the front of the house - the idea being that if she managed to get out the front door (and she was VERY cunning) she would go no further. However, she somehow figured out that if she got a good run up & jumped over it she could avoid a shock.

As I said, a cunning bitch, & too smart for us sometimes :(

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Not sure how me mentioning that in my first posts relates to my question about AdoubleJ's response. I was asking for clarification what she said about the dog "breaking the barier" and not being so keen to re-enter.

it means if they went through the "barrier", crossed the line, they endured the shock they got because they perceived the reward as worth it. Crossing the line (and getting another shock) to come home mightn't be so rewarding

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Hello I am not sure if I am writing this in to the correct section but here goes.

We had an electric fence for our much loved dog who is no longer with us. She was a staffy cross. We had no fence. These invisiable fences work very effectively and without cruelty, if the training that is part of the fence program is used correctly in the beginning, before the dog is let loose in the area without being aware that there is something out there that could give it a brief sharp shock when they approach it.

I am probably going to go on quite a bit here because I think the electric fence system is largly misunderstood by the community at large.

The training involves, setting up string or some such with visible flags all around it on the line of the electric fence (which should be buried underground). The dog can then see the 'fence' line during training. (As we did this with our girl 16 years ago you will have to forgive me for not remembering the exact details but it goes something like this.

For the first day, you walk the dog around the fence line without the fence turned on. Next day you walk them around it with it turned on but just edge in close enough so that they can hear the warning beep that lets them know they are getting close to the fence/shock. Don't shock them. Next day Walk them around in around the fence line letting them hear the warning beep but then edge them a little closer and when they get the shock, pull them away, and continue walking around the area without the beep sound or any more shocks. This step is repeated for a week so that they know that when they move into the area when they hear an audible beep it is a warning to go no further. With this training they may have to only receive 7 very short shocks.

Now how bad is the shock? I have raised a son and a daughter, and I can say that boys birthday parties were dramatically different to girls parties. At no time in all the years of girls parties did I find the girls playing the game that most entertained the boys (when they were all under 12), That game was take the collar off the dog and the boys would all stand on the line and see how long they could hold on to it for before letting go. When Cossie would occassionally 'break the barrier' (usually because the battery had run out and we hadn't noticed and she had chased a bird accross the fence), she would just stand then and bark to be let back in. All we had to do is go down to her, touch her on the collar, head and she would jump back in over the invisable line.

They made this game up themselves by the way!

The trick is never turn the fence off and just let the dog walk out the 'fenced' area. Always touch or hold her so she thinks that you are the one helping her accross. That way they will not cross it if the battery runs out in the collar. If the dog is irrated by the collar, you can take the collar off for weeks at a time if the training is done correctly and only put in on intermintently to remind them of the training. NOT with a shock, but with the beeping sound.

You are correct, other dogs and people will be able to access your yard so naturally this is suitable only in certain areas where that is not an issue.

Our dog Cossie, was the happiest, healthiest most wonderful girl and I know the fence kept her safe and allowed her to access areas she would not otherwise have been able to reach. We were very lucky to have her. I am going off on a slant now but in her time, she saved our children from a Death Adder and saved my sisters poodle from drowning in a pool and protected our niece from a stranger without biting, just warning. We were blessed to have her.

This has been our personal experience and it worked brilliantly. She weighed 18kg by the way in case that is relevant.

SunshineChere

My only thought with them is that they will be keen enough to 'break the barrier' after something really exciting but might not be quite so keen to come back!

What do you mean? Am thinking of using it in conjuction with a 6ft wooden fence to stop Poppy from going up onto the retaining wall and around onto the pebbles?

Well

You didnt mention that part in the first post, so people are assuming you meant as a boundary system.

Not sure how me mentioning that in my first posts relates to my question about AdoubleJ's response. I was asking for clarification what she said about the dog "breaking the barier" and not being so keen to re-enter.

If your dog really wants to get up on the retaining wall area, electric shock therapy will only work for so long. Why not just block off the area?

Thanks! I didn't realise it worked by electric shock! I thought it was a high frequency sound wave type thing. Will explore other ways of blockin off these areas! :)

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Hello I am not sure if I am writing this in to the correct section but here goes.

We had an electric fence for our much loved dog who is no longer with us. She was a staffy cross. We had no fence. These invisiable fences work very effectively and without cruelty, if the training that is part of the fence program is used correctly in the beginning, before the dog is let loose in the area without being aware that there is something out there that could give it a brief sharp shock when they approach it.

I am probably going to go on quite a bit here because I think the electric fence system is largly misunderstood by the community at large.

The training involves, setting up string or some such with visible flags all around it on the line of the electric fence (which should be buried underground). The dog can then see the 'fence' line during training. (As we did this with our girl 16 years ago you will have to forgive me for not remembering the exact details but it goes something like this.

For the first day, you walk the dog around the fence line without the fence turned on. Next day you walk them around it with it turned on but just edge in close enough so that they can hear the warning beep that lets them know they are getting close to the fence/shock. Don't shock them. Next day Walk them around in around the fence line letting them hear the warning beep but then edge them a little closer and when they get the shock, pull them away, and continue walking around the area without the beep sound or any more shocks. This step is repeated for a week so that they know that when they move into the area when they hear an audible beep it is a warning to go no further. With this training they may have to only receive 7 very short shocks.

Now how bad is the shock? I have raised a son and a daughter, and I can say that boys birthday parties were dramatically different to girls parties. At no time in all the years of girls parties did I find the girls playing the game that most entertained the boys (when they were all under 12), That game was take the collar off the dog and the boys would all stand on the line and see how long they could hold on to it for before letting go. When Cossie would occassionally 'break the barrier' (usually because the battery had run out and we hadn't noticed and she had chased a bird accross the fence), she would just stand then and bark to be let back in. All we had to do is go down to her, touch her on the collar, head and she would jump back in over the invisable line.

They made this game up themselves by the way!

The trick is never turn the fence off and just let the dog walk out the 'fenced' area. Always touch or hold her so she thinks that you are the one helping her accross. That way they will not cross it if the battery runs out in the collar. If the dog is irrated by the collar, you can take the collar off for weeks at a time if the training is done correctly and only put in on intermintently to remind them of the training. NOT with a shock, but with the beeping sound.

You are correct, other dogs and people will be able to access your yard so naturally this is suitable only in certain areas where that is not an issue.

Our dog Cossie, was the happiest, healthiest most wonderful girl and I know the fence kept her safe and allowed her to access areas she would not otherwise have been able to reach. We were very lucky to have her. I am going off on a slant now but in her time, she saved our children from a Death Adder and saved my sisters poodle from drowning in a pool and protected our niece from a stranger without biting, just warning. We were blessed to have her.

This has been our personal experience and it worked brilliantly. She weighed 18kg by the way in case that is relevant.

SunshineChere

How do you stop a dog that is determined to escape, despite the shock?

How do you stop other dogs from coming in?

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