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Training To Walk On Leash


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who I had previously used Neks method & got nowhere

If you had used my 'methods' your dog would walk fine on a leash. Considering really I tailor the 'method' to suit the individual dog you can't really say I am stuck on a one track to really have a method.

I was commenting on Nek's statement that dogs that are CT fall down under distractions.

Nek didn't say that. She said "not always foolproof IF the dog find the surrounding environment of higher value than the handler and the "treats" offered."

Ari is correct, my post was not read properly at all before comments were made.

As for correction chains not working in high distraction environments, mmm not so. I use correction chains but I also teach my clients to use marker words as clickers are just another thing to juggle or leave behind. We work in a camera approach, YES when you see what you want from the dog. I make them imagine they're taking a photo of what they want which in turn helps the dog. I use a combination of correction and marking/reward and engagement. I dont let people just yank their dogs around. Corrections I find in the dogs that need them help them actually value the reward so much more and concentrate better. I put the dogs in distracting environments so they learn in them, because they will exist in them.

I don't produce unhappy dogs. You can't force a big tongue lolling, wide eyed focus face and wagging tail so as far as I'm concerned I'm letting the dogs dictate to me if I'm right or wrong. And so far I dont see any misery. But at the same time I'm not accepting bad behavior or backing off at the first sign of stress. I produce resilient dogs that trained under high distraction, learn a high tolerance and how to manage their own anxiety without having to me micro managed by their owners.

Edited by Nekhbet
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I didn't say corrections don't work in high distraction environments, I am all for using corrections appropriately - but I did say in response to Sheenas post that no training works well if you bypass every phase of learning and proofing and go straight to what the dog finds as the highest level of distraction.

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Corrections I find in the dogs that need them help them actually value the reward so much more and concentrate better. I put the dogs in distracting environments so they learn in them, because they will exist in them.

I agree Nek and have used exactly as you describe countless times with great success even with fear aggressive dogs. The correction/consequence can set up the foundation during high distraction for the dog to calm and accept the initiation of reward and gain value. One milestone was a fear aggressive Rotty after corrective measures turned into a garbage guts you heel through a herd of elephants if treats were on board.....previously the dog was too stressed to eat in face of other animals unless they were 30mtres away. :thumbsup:

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I didn't say corrections don't work in high distraction environments, I am all for using corrections appropriately - but I did say in response to Sheenas post that no training works well if you bypass every phase of learning and proofing and go straight to what the dog finds as the highest level of distraction.

If you remember back to Koehler, the learning and correction phase was attained simultaneously in regards to leash control, as much as political turmoil effected Koehler's leash training methods, it did work remarkably well in achievement of the loose leash walk, in fact it was the foundation of off leash obedience when proofed, you could discard the leash altogether. Distraction factor is huge to a young dog as you commonly see young dogs taking their owners for a walk :laugh:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone who has been so kind to help. We have had success with our loose leash walking, I bought a Petlife Halti Harness and it has made such a difference. Abby walks without pulling, looks up at whoever has her lead while we walk as if to say "aren't I just such a good girl" :thumbsup: I never thought changing her lead would make such a difference. Thank you all.m :)

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If you get caught out without your harness & the situation is a bit too exciting for your pup do this. Take the lead about two thirds of the way down in your left hand & loop the loose end under his neck against his chest & bring it up on your right & hold it like you would a guide dog harness. You have the lead on both left & right sides of his chest with a handle at the top above his shoulders The lead is not tight against his chest, it just rest there while walking & only tightens when he pulls & he should back off. Not sure if I have explained this properly :( but it is very simple

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If you get caught out without your harness & the situation is a bit too exciting for your pup do this. Take the lead about two thirds of the way down in your left hand & loop the loose end under his neck against his chest & bring it up on your right & hold it like you would a guide dog harness. You have the lead on both left & right sides of his chest with a handle at the top above his shoulders The lead is not tight against his chest, it just rest there while walking & only tightens when he pulls & he should back off. Not sure if I have explained this properly :( but it is very simple

Thanks Sheena, we are beginning to have quite a bit if success, she loves the clicker training and I try to spend short period with her at home each day perfecting things. At the moment it is shake hands. I hope you are having a relaxing Sunday. We have had storms in the illawarra the last few days, yesterday the most amazing hail storm, more storms expected this afternoon. We are lucky Abby doesn't seem to worry about storms, the only noise that worries her is if I have the washing machine on in the laundry and I put her food down close by. She won't eat until the machine stops or I move her good into another room. They are such funny creatures. Enjoy your Sunday. :D

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If you get caught out without your harness & the situation is a bit too exciting for your pup do this. Take the lead about two thirds of the way down in your left hand & loop the loose end under his neck against his chest & bring it up on your right & hold it like you would a guide dog harness. You have the lead on both left & right sides of his chest with a handle at the top above his shoulders The lead is not tight against his chest, it just rest there while walking & only tightens when he pulls & he should back off. Not sure if I have explained this properly :( but it is very simple

Running the lead under the dog's chest from its collar and bringing it out behind the front legs does the same and provides a lot more leash for you and a lot less leverage for the dog. Works exactly the same as most no pull harnesses.

However, if you have to walk a dog on a harness to stop it pulling, have you really taught it what a "loose leash" means? Or is the dog simply avoiding an aversive (the harness pulling on its body). Never ceases to amaze me how many supposedly "Positive' dog trainers are happy to use haltis and harnesses on dogs.

At least corrections applied by a trainer are ONLY in play when applied. Haltis are constantly unpleasant for most dogs. They don't pull because you shut them down.

Edited by Haredown Whippets
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However, if you have to walk a dog on a harness to stop it pulling, have you really taught it what a "loose leash" means? Or is the dog simply avoiding an aversive (the harness pulling on its body). Never ceases to amaze me how many supposedly "Positive' dog trainers are happy to use haltis and harnesses on dogs.

At least corrections applied by a trainer are ONLY in play when applied. Haltis are constantly unpleasant for most dogs. They don't pull because you shut them down.

agree ..but am very glad the OP can now concentrate on learning other methods now , while her dog is not pulling :)

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When Hank was young he would pull a bit, not the freight train lean into the collar stuff just I'm a bit excited type stuff. I put him in a halti and within a couple of weeks I could just slide the nose part off after about ten minutes of walking.

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When Hank was young he would pull a bit, not the freight train lean into the collar stuff just I'm a bit excited type stuff. I put him in a halti and within a couple of weeks I could just slide the nose part off after about ten minutes of walking.

I am hoping to be able to do the same, thought giving her some pleasure in walking will help her realise it can fe pleasurable and that she does not have to pull. Eventually I will go back to our original collar.

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