teekay Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Whirl a lead or use a walking pole to force him to give space. If he's in total zoom mode, find a tree or a fence for your back. I doubt it will make you feel any better but I've had a broken wrist and a broken ankle from being hit by dogs in two separate incidents. Not my dogs though. I've also retrieved and taken a friend to hospital after her 'playful' Boxers broke her collarbone by knocking her over. It happens. ETA: Oh, and NEVER turn your back on them. That's how I broke my ankle. Yep to the bolded part, at least you stand a fighting chance if you see him coming. Hope you heal quick SM. Broken bones courtesy of our dogs seem to be quite a common theme, reading this thread so at least you know you are not alone. My friend broke her ankle when her GD x ploughed into her from behind. I also teach a stop sign to my dogs so if they are charging towards me I can raise my flat hand, say stop and they do :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stressmagnet Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Ooh TeeKay, off to google how to teach 'stop'. I used s combo of OI! And waving my stick today. It worked. But he does like to check in with me regularly, which is lovely - just not at break neck (or break wrist) speed. And if it's while he's carrying the biggest stick he can find - it makes me wish I had jet powered shoes! Anyway, I'm going to teach him 'stop', and never turn my back on him again. It doesn't matter how many dogs you've owned in the past; each one comes with its special joys and weirdnesses. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpette Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Ooh TeeKay, off to google how to teach 'stop'. I used s combo of OI! And waving my stick today. It worked. But he does like to check in with me regularly, which is lovely - just not at break neck (or break wrist) speed. And if it's while he's carrying the biggest stick he can find - it makes me wish I had jet powered shoes! Anyway, I'm going to teach him 'stop', and never turn my back on him again. It doesn't matter how many dogs you've owned in the past; each one comes with its special joys and weirdnesses. :D It is very similar to teaching a "drop on recall". Start by teaching remote drops, with hand signal and voice. Then you can progress to getting them to drop when they are under speed. It has saved my knees many a time, because Zeph just does not look (insert rolley eye man). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrs Rusty Bucket Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Ooh remote drop start really close to dog with some yummy treats... and ask for the drop - and treat. If you're trying to reduce the chance of crash tackles - always treat when he's next to you (you can move to this position)... not in front of you. Ie encourage him to come zooming back - next to you - not in front or behind you (tho he still needs to be looking where he's going). So get some drops - close up (in a low distraction environment) and gradually build on the distance or the distractions - but not both at once. And I use a hand signal which looks like me making a downwards cross signal. Other people make a double palms down signal that looks like they're pushing the dog down. Mine will also drop if I bow at her. But she has to be looking for a signal to work. Glad the OI OI worked... sometimes you just need to make input into a different source ie he's not looking - your best shot is yelling for attention (not scolding yelling)... I do continuous OI OI on dog approach - as a sort of sound beacon... Edited May 12, 2015 by Mrs Rusty Bucket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpette Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Ooh remote drop start really close to dog with some yummy treats... and ask for the drop - and treat. If you're trying to reduce the chance of crash tackles - always treat when he's next to you (you can move to this position)... not in front of you. Ie encourage him to come zooming back - next to you - not in front or behind you (tho he still needs to be looking where he's going). So get some drops - close up (in a low distraction environment) and gradually build on the distance or the distractions - but not both at once. And I use a hand signal which looks like me making a downwards cross signal. Other people make a double palms down signal that looks like they're pushing the dog down. Mine will also drop if I bow at her. But she has to be looking for a signal to work. Glad the OI OI worked... sometimes you just need to make input into a different source ie he's not looking - your best shot is yelling for attention (not scolding yelling)... I do continuous OI OI on dog approach - as a sort of sound beacon... Brilliant idea MRB. You can teach Ernie a finish for when he comes in. Always treat him when he is sitting calmly at your left side, if this is not your dodgy shoulder side, or alternatively your right side. As he comes towards you, have a treat in your right hand and move it behind your back with Ernie following. Have your left hand behind your back with a treat in it as well. When he is behind you, move your left hand towards your left side. As he follows it to your left side, get him to sit and reward. To get him to move around to your right you can step back with your right foot as you move your right hand with the treat in it. I hope that this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpette Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Here is an example for you, but Ernie does not need to sit in front of you. That way when he comes in he wont use you as a stopping post. If he does, bend you knees. I am certain that huski will have some better clips for you to watch. Edited May 12, 2015 by grumpette Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvus Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Hand targeting, used very consistently! Gets their focus up and away from your centre of gravity, and it can turn into a fun recall game. If you present a hand target at arm's length every time he comes towards you, you will condition him to veer to the side, especially if you use the same hand each time. Keep it low to discourage exuberant launches that result in wrist bruises. Also, tossing treats on the ground a short distance from you as he approaches. Best to start on a hard surface so he can hear them hit the ground and see them roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brightstar123 Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Deleted Edited June 17, 2015 by brightstar123 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kavik Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Many sympathies! My worst dog related injury (torn medial ligament) also involved a Labrador! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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