huski

Nooooo, the little turd is staying at home. She'd go nuts being crated all day at the work shop, even with breaks, she'd be too excited with all the other dogs. The aggression workshop would be pretty useless with her anyway - although I'm really bringing Mishy cos he's so much easier

Daisy might get jealous if Mia gets to bunk with Bakari!

A Gentle Clip Ultimate Dog grooming... I've used them, they aren't great, and I know others who have had a bad experience with them. There is Pet Set dog grooming on Shaw Rd in Wooloowin which we've used in the past, and Dogues of Ascot in ascot on the corner of Racecourse Rd - they are excellent, not sure if they dye dogs but they do a great job with our guys

MSB - if it makes you feel any better, I had my two separated for six weeks until I could trust them to run alone together. The main reason being my dog is quite a bully with new dogs, and our beagle was only a little pup - sometimes these things take time. They are the best of friends now

In the short term, keeping them seperated sounds like the best solution. No worries Erny MSB, if you haven't already, I'd PM Erny and see if consulting a behaviourist is an avenue you can explore atm.

A crate is like a big doggy cage that acts as their 'bedroom' so to speak. Can you alternate which one is in the garage etc? Or have one inside and one outside for the time being?

MSB - in regards to a behaviourist, cost is not always as high as you first think. Although this does differ from behaviourist to behaviourist. From memory you are in Melbourne? The lovely Erny works in Melbourne and she comes highly recommended

I prefer puppy school not be a free for all, but would love pups to have breaks where they can play with each other - I went to one extreme with our last puppy school where the pups had to be tied to chairs for the hour plus of class and were not allowed to play with each other at any time. The instructor even put dividers between the pups so they couldn't see each other! It's not what we went to puppy school for. Although this was the same trainer who told us not to say no or ah ah to our pups, and that giving them an ear rub would calm them down when they were being naughty - might work for a quiet, easy going pup but mine was neither of those things!

I would advise consulting a professional behaviourist - I could recommend someone for you (I live in Brisvegas too), but I would highly suggest coming along to the K9 Force workshop - he doesn't come up to QLD often and it could be years until the next seminar! The first day is purely on dog aggression so it would be perfect for you pooch http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=147561

Hi Midol, I'm sorry, can you tell me who and 'breed' Lily, Gizmo and Montu are?? I'm out of the loop ;) I'm just bringing Monah, oh , and OH!! But his training is pretty good and he doesn't have any aggression issues I'm not Midol but Lily and Gizmo are Sibes and Montu is his new GSD pup

As FTPO said, Pet Centro in Clayfield doesn't sell live animals and neither do any of the Pet Cafe chains.

If you are in North Brissy, our favourite is Pet Centro on sandgate rd in Clayfield :rolleyes:

No way would I be staying at that puppy school fbaudry!!! Any puppy school that advocates alpha rolling (and I am all for negative reinforcement at the right times) is not one I would be interested in going to. Ridiculous!

Cherry had a terrible rash for years until we put her on RC and it did wonders No more rash!

[*] Which sex is “better”? I’ve looked up the pros and cons of each sex, but I’d just like some input from people who’ve had experience with dogs. Is it true that dogs are more affectionate than bitches? Are dogs more outgoing and more “puppy-like” for their entire lives whereas bitches are more reserved with the “you love me” attitude (instead of vice versa)? Is it true that bitches are easier to housebreak and easier to train? What about marking and dominance? And just so you know, I’m planning on getting my puppy desexed. - There is really no sex that is 'better' than the other. Each sex has its merits and ultimately it is really about the individual pup. Do you want an outgoing pup or a quieter pup? etc - your breeder will help you pick a pup that suits you as they know the litter the best. Seeing as you don't already have a dog I would go in with an open mind and see which pup the breeder thinks would suit you best or see which one you bond with the most. I wouldn't say dogs are easier than bitches or vice versa, or that one is easier to house train than another etc. One of my bitches pees on everything when we are out walking whereas my male is easy as. [*] How to tell if a breeder is reputable, what questions should one ask a breeder before they purchase a puppy from them and how to choose a puppy? I find telling a reputable breeder apart from a non-reputable breeder a job that isn’t particularly easy as non-reputable breeders try and seem reputable. What types of papers/documents should I ask to see? What if they haven’t screened for some of the health problems common in the breed (all the breeders I’ve contacted haven’t done this and I’m slightly worried…)? What should I expect to see from a good breeder? What questions should I ask about the puppy’s parents? What questions should I ask about the puppies? Are there any good rules to follow when selecting an individual puppy out of the litter? Use the temperament test? How to tell if a puppy knows bite inhibitation? - First of all, a reputable breeder will be a registered breeder - an ANKC breeder reigstered with their state body (i.e. in QLD it is the CCCQ, in NSW, dogsNSW). They will have a kennel name and will likely show their dogs, and they will do all appropriate breed health testing on their dogs before breeding - and they will be open about the health testing they do. If a breeder is not registered and does not health test run a mile. I always recommend going with a breeder who you like, and find approachable and easy to talk to. someone that you 'click' with, because they will be there to help you for the life of your pup. [*] What to do about socialisation? What about the diseases that the puppy may catch? Where to socialise? How to best avoid diseases? Should I keep my puppy away from everything until he has all his vaccinations? What about fear periods? - IMO - and everyone is different - I take my pups out and about from they day they get home, but I use common sense. I will not take them to dog parks etc, but I will carry them around with me to shops, to visit friends etc. There is a topic pinned in the top of this puppy forum written by K9 Force that outline fear periods etc. [*] How long should daily walks be for puppies? And how to teach them not to pull on the leash? Is there such thing as “too much walking”? What are the instructions on teaching a dog to walk beside you and not in front? - Pups don't really need daily walks until they are 4-5 months of age, and then the daily walk is more about teaching them how to walk on the leash properly. With a small breed like a pap I would start on small walks about 10 minutes and work your way up gradually from there. [*] How to prevent separation anxiety, or solve it if it occurs? Any procedures to follow to prevent it? What if, for most days people are going to be home (my grandparents are retired) and then suddenly, for a day or two (at the most) no one’s going to be home? Will these cause any problems with these sudden complete absences of people? - I would get the pup used to being alone by leaving the house in small increments i.e. 10 minutes, 20 minutes etc so you build up to leaving it alone. Don't make a fuss when you leave or come home. [*] Any tips on preventing barking from becoming a problem and how to teach bite inhibitation? - A lot of dogs bark out of boredom, so give your dogs things to do i.e. plenty of mental stimulation (i.e. training) and exercise, leave them toys and things to play with that will occupy them. Bite inhibition is something that develops as the pups are with their litter mates, so start by ensuring the pup you buy is at least 8 weeks of age. Then if nipping is an issue, teach the pup that biting you is a no no but give it something to chew on instead i.e. a toy. You sound like you've done a lot of research, congratulations A lot of the things you've asked about are things your breeder can help you with as you narrow down when you are bringing your pup home etc. Especially with things like training etc as everyone has differing opinions.

I think this K9 Force weekend is going to be just awesome! Monah I'll finally get to meet you after all this time

LOL, I got in quick

So if we've paid before tomorrow we don't get the discount? ETA: I don't really care as its only $20 just wondering

But aren't there more than thirty different strains of Kennel Cough? C5 only vaccinates for two. My dogs still contracted KC when they last boarded and they were up to date on their vaccinations (C5). KC is essentially just a cold - its not that dangerous, but if you are worried, there is a KC nasal spray that you can get your vet to adminster to your dog.

Sounds nice! I live in Brissy but I've never been there.

As long as its only in areas that are designated off lead areas It's illegal to walk dogs off leash anywhere but the designated areas, and the council will fine you for it.

That's why I use martingales/limited slip collars - my dog can get out of any flat collar (and he backed out of his halti too, as well as pulling hard enough to break the clasp). Dog's can't back out of martingales and I use ones with no clasps, so they can't be broken

Yep, that's what I do too. I did post this in the thread in general, but I take my pups out and about from the day they are brought home. Cherry was kept in until she was 16 weeks and reacts badly to new situations, Micha and Daisy were taken out from eight weeks and they are confident and outgoing wherever we go. I wouldn't take any pup of mine to a dog park regardless of their vaccs, and I would probably avoid the beach, but I did take them too shops, markets, various new places etc and let them be pat by strangers.

Most definitely! Been way too long

Your husky exhibits the exact same behaviour my husky does when he meets pups. He is a dominant bully with dogs he doesn't know. When we got our beagle as an eight week old pup, we only had supervised play and any sign of dominance or bullying from Micha and he was given a correction/reprimanded. I knew how to predict his behaviour pretty well - so I was able to see the signs he was going to dominate her and I could step in before anything happened. What we did was kept them seperated completely unless under supervision, and took it slowly. It only took six weeks before we could leave them together (we did trial leaving them together in small stages i.e. 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes etc). Micha is fine once he is familiar with another dog, and he learnt pretty quickly that he wasn't allowed to be rough with Daisy.