Tangwyn

Your explanation makes sense, FHRP. At a recent trial in Tamworth there was over 30 entries in CCD and only 4 in Novice. Obviously people appreciate the opportunity to gain confidence at a lower level before going on. Ha! Ha! I know I certainly kept both of them with Nelson - every letter in those titles reflected another 50 grey hairs on my head! :p

But dogdude, that's because normally the lower title is required in order to gain the higher title. Therefore, it goes without saying that to have a CDX the dog MUST have its CD. I don't plan to compete in CCD at all - just go straight to Novice. Hence my dog will have its CD title and will not be differentiated from a dog that has gone to the added effort of gaining CCD and CD titles. Don't you think that's a bit strange?

On a slightly different point; since CCD isn't a prerequisite to do Novice why is it that the CCD after your dog's name is lost as soon as you gain your CD? Shouldn't it remain as a mark to those who actually gain that title? I can understand that CDX replaces CD because you MUST gain your CD to get a CDX - this ain't the case with CCD and CD. What are other people's thoughts?

Do you know that honey is the only foodstuff that never goes off? BTW, emmark, its not a live culture... Cheers

Hi Kristie, My pup just went through his second fear period. It lasted between 5 and 6 1/2 months of age. During this time he was scared of stupid things like sticks floating in the water, a charred log in the paddock or anything new that appeared in the house. I didn't stop taking him out and doing things with him, although I avoided both making the situations more traumatic and rewarding him for the fear behaviours. This meant that I didn't force him to confront the things he was frightened of - if he wanted to retreat I let him - and I NEVER praised him until he made steps toward making contact with the item. With the floating sticks I actually went in the water and touched the stick myself, then started playing with it and looking like I was having a great time with the stick. Eventually he would start to creep forward and then finally touch the stick. By the end I would have him playing with it. For me, keeping the dog at home was not an option as he's a big dog and needs mental and physical stimulation that's impossible to provide in my yard. If keeping your dog at home IS an option, and you are worried about the possibility of long term trauma or accidentally reinforcing fear behaviours then it could certainly be worth a try. Although its a big worry at the time please feel reassured that this fear period will pass and you'll get your lovely little dog back soon!

Thanks for that

Hi Andy, I've never heard of that kind of "drive training" But then, its hardly surprising, there's plenty of people put out there doing stupid things to dogs, other animals and people. Its not the tool that's the problem, its the trainer... Most of the motivational trainers' books I've read from the US all include use of the prong collar. I have yet to try one (mainly because of concerns regarding the legality) but am led to believe that they are actually more humane than choke chains (and I use the term "choke" not "check" because its the most misused training tool I've ever come across!). I for one am looking forward to some clarification with regard to the legals of prong collars.

I agree whole-heartedly WS. You only have to watch a herd of horses to see some fairly spirited "corrections". Or check out my horse's hide (with various teeth marks and big chunks of hair and skin removed) when he's brought in from the mob.

If the dog is off leash but still in teaching phase I would go to the dog, clip the lead on, say "come", guide the dog in and praise. If the dog has completed the teaching phase and I am positive it is being disobedient then I will go to the dog, clip the lead on, give a leash correction at the appropriate level for the dog, guide it in and praise. Once the first command is given I never give the dog a second chance to disobey regardless of what phase of learning it is in at the time. As others have said, horse trainers obviously use corrections to train horses. What do you think a bit is on a bridle? A thin piece of metal over the bare bone of a horse's jaw is guaranteed to inflict pain. The narrower the piece of metal the more pain. Spurs? Leg pressure? I'm going to go out on a fairly big, long and dangerously fragile limb here and say that I don't believe purely positive methods ever achieve 100% reliability. Sure, they may be used for some animals like dolphins but do you think it really matters to the trainer if that dolphin doesn't execute the exact type of manouvre that was requested? Methods such as timing the dog out or going inside will obviously be more effective for dogs with very high pack drives. For dogs who don't then what? I find it is often very easy for certain trainers to espouse a certain method which is successful with their one dog. Show me the trainer who has been successful with 10 or 20 different dogs and I'll show you the person I'm lending an ear to.

Yep, it does sound like something's irritating her. If not something up her nose could be an air freshener, cigarette smoke etc that's recently been used in the house??

Also had great service from them. They accidentally sent me the wrong scissors and when I rang to let the lady know she dispatched the replacement on the same day. I got my replacements an hour before I posted the incorrect ones back and she sent me some free shampoo as well!

I also won't use the intranasal vaccine after nearly all my dogs developed either a cough or chronic "reverse sneezing"/wheezing after administration. Also, some dogs snort nearly all of the liquid straight out of their nasal passage and the vaccine ends up not being effective anyway...

Hi there, How long since your pup was vaccinated? Any chance she was given the intranasal bordetella vaccine?

I think there has been a mis-communication with the term "correction". It seems that some think that this means ripping the dog's head off with a check chain. It doesn't. A correction is simply a consequence imposed upon the dog, at a level appropriate for the dog and behaviour, which gives it a clear understanding that its response, or offered behaviour, was incorrect. For my young pup it will mostly be a verbal marker, "Uh-uh" or "Wrong" in a displeased tone. Depending on the severity of the offense a correction may escalate to a leash check but this is always dependant on the temperament of the dog and the stage of its development. It would be very rare that, where it is vital that a dog exhibit a certain behaviour at a given time, the training technique would be purely positive. For a behaviour to be completely proofed, in all situations, it must move from being a voluntary action to being a compulsory action. This is even the case with assistance dogs, customs and bomb dogs.

LP, I take it, then, that you score close to 200 in obedience trials? I do concede that I haven't personally seen Tess in action so any comments I make are, obviously, subject to amendment by her owner/trainer to suit her particular circumstance. Given the fact that you are very familiar with the dog and the training technique used - hopefully the advice you have given will be to good effect and we'll see Tess blitz the trial next time. Cheers T.

I'm afraid I also have to disagree with this. Some of the most "shut-down", miserable looking dogs I have seen in a trial ring are purely positive trained. Correcting a dog for a behaviour it understands provides it with clear boundaries and, I believe, clear boundaries make happy dogs. Also, if a dog is exhibiting behaviours indicating stress or shut down giving the dog praise, toys or treats can only serve to re-inforce the behaviour. It only takes once or twice and there you go - conditioned behaviour. To me, your dog must be getting some form of reward or reinforcement for the behaviour it is currently exhibiting in the ring. Perhaps this is simply the fact that initially you tried to "gee her up" with a toy or food (reward for unacceptable behaviour) and now it is perpetuated by the the lack of correction or other disincentives. JMHO

Some of us are better at that than others!

I've been very happy with EP Holistic but haven't ever fed Advance to mine. The work dogs are on it and they seem to do ok but I don't think their coats look as good as they should.

My 6 month old pup is on Eagle Pack Holistic Chicken and looks great. He still has alot of poo though...

I take it he has the compact body-type of the typical US fieldbred Lab then? :D I bet he would have outmoved those poor little stumpy legged show Labs though!!

Hi again, Yep, I put him on the adult food. He was 4 months old. When I looked at the calcium content of the puppy and adult versions of Eagle Pack they were the same or very, very close. Went through the nutrient breakup and really couldn't see much difference. He's 6 months old now, growing really well, great bone and, as I said, his pasterns and feet are excellent. I was freaking out as from about 9 weeks old his feet went flat like snow shoes and he had awful collapsing pasterns. I was really disappointed as I had him on the food that was most recommended for large breed pups etc. Check out his front feet in this pic... And then in this pic one bag of adult EP Holistic Chicken & Rice later... He went Baby Puppy in Show 3 weeks ago when I was having doubts a few weeks prior that he would ever make it into the show ring at all. Oh, and as I said, diarrhoea gone as long as I don't give him anything too rich on top of the dry food like lamb brisket. Also, I never liked the look of the funny white spots that appeared in his poo when he was on EP Puppy Large Breed. Not sure what they were but have heard other people make the same comment...

Hi, My Flatcoat pup had constant diarrhoea on EP Large Breed Puppy as well as Royal Canin Large Breed Puppy. Switched him to EP Holistic Chicken and Rice and he has been good ever since. Also found that his feet and pasterns have improved heaps

Hi Jill, Glad to hear you got him home safe and sound. Wonder what was so attractive about your neighbour's house that he hung around there for so long? Weird... Anyway, great idea about the run. Just get him lots of things to keep him occupied in the day. Kongs stuffed with bikkies and peanut butter are good and marrow bones cut in half will last most of the day. You could get one of those kiddy pools and fill it with sand and bury dog treats in it for him to dig up. Someone also makes a tug toy that hangs from the roof - they're meant to be good. Nylabone chews are also good although make sure you get the sturdy big ones as my Lab dispenses with the smaller version fairly quickly. Big blocks of ice with treats frozen inside are great for summer but not so good at the moment as its a bit cold! The possibilities for keeping him entertained are as limitless as your imagination. Don't stress too much, I'm sure it will be fine.

Ouch. If anyone can prove him wrong, LL, you can! I'm looking forward to meeting this dog - he sounds like a real cracker!!

Hi W-S, You trialling this year? I am desperate to get to a trial and see what goes on. Unfortunately, no Spaniel/Retriever Trials are being held in NSW any more so not looking good for me and my pup...