dancinbcs

Live teeth would be a completely different issue altogether. But by 6 months the baby canines are dead, even if they haven't fallen out.

It depends on the dog and how solid the teeth are. I know of quite a few BCs that have had them pulled by the vet with no sedation at all and no issues after. It is not a painful procedure, just uncomfortable. Think back to when you were a kid and had to pull out your baby teeth. There isn't any pain involved because the teeth are already dead. If the dog will let them get hold of the teeth with forceps, without a fuss, removing them is usually pretty easy. Nails are a different matter and are always painful when cut too far back.

What are the laws in WA? In NSW it is illegal to sell any puppy under 8 weeks and they have to be vaccinated and microchipped as well before being sold. So over here you can always use the fact that they are selling illegally as a valid point. The other important thing about puppies being sold at 6 weeks is that they are more likely to be scared or aggressive around other dogs. They need that extra socialisation time with the litter and it is something that can never be fixed later.

This is were most of the problems are. I know someone that recently bought a 5 week old supposed BB puppy. It was almost all white, so possibly deaf and the skin looked very inflammed. Apart from it being far too young to be sold and looking very unhealthy, it was definitely not the purebred Bulldog it was supposed to be. God only knows what they paid for this BYB crossbred as it was sold as a BB. I saw photos of it on FB the day they brought him home and urged them to return him to where they got him immediately and get their money back. It seems I spoilt their excitement about getting a puppy, so they unfriended me. As long as buyers will blindly part with huge amounts of cash without checking even the most basic facts about the breeder, breeds like Bulldogs will suffer and sadly the whole breed gets labelled as unhealthy.

Give him lots to chew and play tug with him. Try to wriggle the teeth with your fingers if you can. If you do that every day, sometimes you can loosen them yourself. If they get to the loose, but won't come out stage, try grabbing them carefully with pliers. Otherwise wait until 6 months then get the vet to remove them. With some dogs they can just pull them out while the dog is awake, others need a GA. It depends on the dog's temperament and how solidly attached the teeth are. Price depends on the vet and the size of the dog. It is a generally a very minor procedure but a GA can be anything from $100 - $400 depending on how the vet does their pricing.

They sure do win and win big. I can only assume that the the British Bulldogs in our showrings are much healthier than those overseas because of the comments so often made by international judges. British Bulldogs have an amazing amount of success against other breeds at major shows with international judges and the judges often comment on how nice it is to see typey, sound moving Bulldogs that can run around the ring even in hot weather without any ill effects. Apparently this is rare elsewhere and they are so amazed that they put them up. The standard could be altered a little to the benefit of the dogs but they biggest problem is all the non-show breeders cashing in on the popularity of the breed. Breeding healthy BBs is hard work and only the most dedicated breeders can pull it off. Sadly most of the breed numbers come from those that really don't care about the breed. I am not a fan of any Brachy breeds and would never own one but I do have a soft spot for well bred BBs because of their personality. They are real characters and I can understand the dedication their breeders have for them, despite the problems, but cannot fathom why so many average pet owners would want one, with all the potential problems.

There's no set dose for how many grapes they need to be negatively affected - I just didn't want to take the chance - didn't seem worth the stress. I know grapes are supposed to be dangerous to dogs but long before I ever heard this, my first BC used to eat all fruit including the grapes and passionfruit we had growing in the yard. The grapes were sour wine grapes that we never used and the dog would eat the entire crop and then chew the vine back each season. Never did him any harm at all.

She had her cars mixed up. The Aussie rhyming slang for Weis is "White Torana".

Which regions in the Sthn Highlands have them? Sydney's south western suburbs are basically tick free and I have never know of anyone to encounter them south (unless you get closer to the coast) or west of here either. . Wildes Meadow, Avoca, Fitzroy Falls, Robertson and even Moss Vale. Already had one client lose a dog and another lost an Alpaca. The whole Kangaroo Valley area has always been a problem tick area because of the high rainfall. I still class anywhere east of Moss Vale as coastal but didn't know they had reached as far as Moss Vale itself. Thanks for the heads up.

Think Dog Every dog owner should read Think Dog by John Fisher. I wish I had read it before I got my first BC, not 10 years later.

Which regions in the Sthn Highlands have them? Sydney's south western suburbs are basically tick free and I have never know of anyone to encounter them south (unless you get closer to the coast) or west of here either. Our very busy vets have lots of snake bites to treat but never have tick poisonings unless the dogs have been out of the area or have come in contact with dogs from tick areas. Ticks need humidity to survive so the dryer south western suburbs and inland don't get them unless someone brings them in from a tick area.

At least she would be smarter than all the politicians.

As Pat Hastings says in her lecture, "size, bone and substance in babies are absolutely no indication of what they will be when full grown. Always pick the puppy with the best conformation and cross your fingers for correct size, bone and substance as these are in the lap of the gods. I have had BCs since 1983 and have seen some whopping puppies come to a stop at 6 months and end up fine. Other little ones have grown in height to 18 months and continued to fill out into substantial dogs. My first two were prime examples, the first dog was a tiny 3kg at 8 weeks. He matured to almost top of standard at nearly 21" and weighed 21kg. My first bitch was 8kg at 8 weeks, 14kg and 19" at 6 months and still 14kg and 19" at 22 months when she was mated. After the litte she matured out at about 17kgs.

Bascially whenever I see poo but at least once a day. With a new puppy it is every time he goes or we can't find the little poos. I cannot believe anyone could leave it more than a day.

In a word NO. Absolutely as impossible in the dog as it is in humans.

Cannot say I have ever heard timid used to describe any Airedale. They are a very tough breed. If well trained they can be excellent obedience dogs but need an experienced trainer to keep them in line. I would put them on a par with Dobes for being strong minded, intelligent, active and more than a handful for an inexperienced owner. No doubt there are softer examples of the breed out there as with any breed but they are not what I woudl recommend as a first dog.

Just saw this post. At 11 months a BC is getting their adult coat. Most of mine would go nuts in a covered crate at night in the warmer months. They really feel the heat and need to be able to move around and find a cool surface to sleep on. Can you confine him to a laundry or bathroom instead of the crate?

Yes, some puppies wont eat anything during a hot day but wait until the cooler night to eat, so feed very late in hot weather. Also remember that a lot of puppies eat varying amounts from day to day. They don't grow at a constant rate and do not eat at a constant rate either. Quite often a few days of light appetitie will be followed by a few days of eating everything they can get hold of, then the appetite will drop off again. My new puppy ate very little during his first two weeks here then started to eat well abotu 5 days out of 7. He is growing well and gaining weight so is obviously getting enough to eat but sometimes he just isn't all that hungry. I have had dogs that gobbled everything put in front of them and others that seemed to eat practically nothing. With the really low appetitie ones, only offer very small amounts of food and give more if they eat the first bit. I find they are sometimes put off by the sight of a full food bowl but will eat a little bit at a time.

Most people have no idea what it means. So many think it equals hyperactive and nothing could be further from the truth. A hyperactive dog is of no use for any sort of work except full time, 8 hours a day, detection work but drive is needed for all sorts of other dog work. A dog can be high drive and still have an off switch. There are also different types of drive - prey drive, working drive, aggressive drive, depending on the instincts of the breed. One add here on DOL had they they were breeding for highly strung dogs. Obviously confused with high drive but no breed should be highly strung. That would be a major temperament fault in any breed. Most owners and even dog sports competitiors do need really high drive dogs. They need dogs with working drive for whatever activity they are doing but you need a lot of time and experience to handle a really high drive dog. I have had one really high drive BC and he was awesome to train but most people could not have lived with him. I have also seen several very hyperactive BCs and they are completley different.

The poster being shared on FB doesn't have the state on it. I have shared it and noted it is Vic. There is an Emerald in Qld as well. Hope you find her.

The diseases my breed have DNA tests for are all recessive so breeding with carriers is not an issue because they will never be affected. It doesn't matter if there are carriers of recessive conditons in the gene pool for 20 more generations, so long as they are always bred to genetic normals, no affected puppies will be produced. The story though with dominant genes is very different. Personally I would avoid breeding with any dog that is genetically affected by the condition. They are not "carriers" with a dominant gene but "affected", even if they show no clinical symptoms. If avoiding breeding from genetically affected dogs is not possible they should be bred to genetically normal partners and any gentically affected puppies euthanised. I would not take the chance on selling them and in fact in one state of Australia it would be illegal to sell them. Each puppy in the litter would have a 50% of being genetically normal and if you only keep genetically normal offspring from this mating then you get rid of the problem completely while keeping the line.

A lot do get better with age up to about 5 months but if there has been no improvement by 16 weeks it isn't going to happen. No puppy with a heart murmur should be sold because their future is a lottery. Some grow out of it and others get worse. I also know of one that seemed to have corrected because they could no longer hear a murmur. Specialist testing has revealed a heart defect so large that there is no gushing sound to make the murmur. The OP's puppy should have been returned to the breeder as soon as the murmur was detected so they could deal with running it on, following up on it or making the decision to pts. They have offered a refund on what was a very overpriced puppy but should not be expected to pay for choices the buyer has made about treatment if their vet missed the diagnosis. Puppies with heart murmurs that don't correct can end up being on very expensive medication for a couple of years before you lose them and most people cannot deny the dog the medication once they have run it on for a year or so, if it lives that long. Some only live a few months, others survive with $1000s worth of medication for a few years.

Definitely agree with this advice. The puppy should not have been sold but if the vet missed the murmur the breeder would not have known about it. You won't be able to recover your veterinary costs because the puppy should have been returned as soon as the mumur was detected by you vet. It is pointless spending money on a puppy with a fatal congenital defect and then expecting the breeder to pay for it after the event. The puppy should be returned for the breeder to decide if anything should be spent investigating the problem or if it should be pts. Most puppies with heart murmurs end up spending a couple of years on very expensive medication before dying young. Better to return him now, get your ridiculous $2500 back and start again before you end up spending $1000s more only to lose him anyway.

Totally agree with this. Why on earth would you expect a dog that is not trained to not go through an open gate or come when he is called? As for slipping out of the collar. Get a collar he cannot slip out of like a martingale. If you are not prepared to restrain the dog each time you go in and out he needs to kept in a fenced area away from the bump gate. It isn't rocket science and the dog is not the problem. Your family are simply failing to manage the situation and if I was your neighbour I would be mad as hell too at your inability to keep the dog confined to your property.

I would have thought those two names were different enough. The only time I have heard of a prefix being revoked was a couple of years ago in my breed but there was only one different letter in the prefix. The second one had a "K" instead of a "C" and should never have been approved.