Turkey Trip

Must agree, it appears ASAP are not ready for customers yet. After discussions here I decided to give them just one try so ordered swabs on line a couple of weeks ago. Swabs still haven't arrived and sure as hell I will not be ordering any tests from them.

Haven't had to deal with a choking like that, very frightening and congratulations on your quick action to help the dog. Glad it worked out in the end but very sorry for your injury, hope it heals up soon. Have had to help dogs already panicking over foreign bodies (sticks etc) wedged across back of palate or between teeth. To do this safely and avoid being "crunched" down on by the desperate dog, I always use something (bar shaped - inserted from the side) to wedge in the jaw between the back teeth. Hold the dog between legs, make reassuring noises and use both hands - one to hold wedge in place and allow the mouth to stay open and the other to retrieve/remove the foreign object. I really don't know if this would help in an obstruction as you describe, but over many years and whenever required, it has prevented me from being inadvertantly chomped while doing the rescue. however my dogs are not as large as a GSD.

Thanks for the tip Sway, I found that site and wondered if it was still current and in operation as it appeared not have been updated in recent years. All things considered, am going to go with Vetgen for vWD and US based OFA for DM. Due to Angelsun's ongoing experience it sounds like ASAP still need to get their act together and require time to do so. Good luck with your tests Aziah.

May I ask what it cost you Gn? I had a corgi done last week in WA and paid 242.54 for both hips and elbows, plus another $35.00 for the microchip. Have sent the films off to Wyburn and a cheque for $120.00 as per the form they gave me at the Vet's - am hoping that it is a current one with the correct price. So all up, $397.54 for one widdle dog.. :rolleyes: Edited to add ;) for the wine comment too! Give the poor Prof a break, after all he DOES live in Margaret River. ;)

Thanks for your reply Kate, Optigen was my first choice but it appears they now refer all Australian clients to an Australian based company with which they have an agreement.. been there, done that. No thanks.

This looks good and they've been around for a while: http://www.vetdnacenter.com/ Plus they are reasonably priced and currently have a "special" running. Have zipped off an inquiry. Edited to add: Have received a reply already - "Thank you for your email and interest in our DNA testing services. Yes, we have many clients in Australia and worldwide. It is very easy to ship samples using cheek swabs and following these sample collection instructions... http://www.vetdnacenter.com/files/Canine%2...0Collection.pdf

Wow, that was not my experience at all, it was similar to what Angelsun described for ASAP and I know most definitely that my experience was far from unique. Am not happy to risk more of the same and the inconsistencies in communication do not foster confidence in their testing either. If a company can't manage its office or communication and follow-through of arrangements with clients, how good can their service in more technical areas be? It just doesn't inspire confidence. I will keep looking and find somewhere to have testing done o/seas instead of in Australia. Haven't had a reply from ASAP as yet. Thank you for all your replies. Edited to add: My bad experiences were quite a while ago and things may have improved since that time.. ? Testing is non-urgent so have been putting off having it done as long as possible due to all the former hassle.

Ahhh hah. Thank you Aziah, have sent them an inquiry.

What exactly is the situation with genetic testing for canines in Australia? Do breeders have a choice of service providers? I see on the Optigen website that they refer Australian breeders to a company with whom they obviously have an agreement, however are there any others? - THUS providing breeders with a choice of whom they will use to test their dogs? Do Vetgen also offer canine DNA testing services in Australia? I found an old website which appears to have not been updated since 2007, it seems to offer DNA testing from Vetgen but provides no real detail of where the testing is actually performed or by whom. I have had dogs DNA tested previously by an Australian based company and with that experience in mind and with the need to have some more "done", would like the option to shop around. :D Thanks for advice anyone can offer.

Are you in SA? As a visitor I was quite surprised and bemused to discover that by local tradition, certain patches of grass despite no signs nor visible boundaries are actually the property of someone and visitors are not welcome. Luckily we were advised of this before unpacking the gazebo and guided to some "freehold grass" up the back by some kindly locals - or I have the distinct feeling the posse would have been out at dawn for we interstate (and unknowing) " trespassers". It is possibly because the same groups are in the same rings every week at SACA and local showies have staked a claim on certain patches of ringside grass, but unfortunately that practice does not encourage or make welcome visitors and new exhibitors who may quite unknowingly and much to their regret, transgress the local "rules" :p Does this occur anywhere else? We only saw in it Adelaide despite attending several shows in SA/ NSW/Qld during a recent road trip. In WA it is first-come first served but maybe that is because with each show the ring layout or group allocation is usually different so nobody has a "regular" spot.

I like the helpful ones that so cheerfully follow you along on poo-patrol and kindly act as 'spotters'. They will stand by the next nearest one with a focused gaze, looking for all the world like they have pegged a little waving flag in for "x" marks the spot then wait for you to come and collect it. I'm sure some say to themselves; " Don't know what she sees in this stuff - ah well." ;) Yes and there are always the ones that generously manage to make yet another donation; "Here ya go, just while you're on the job.." So thoughtful of them.

Well I'm no expert on bladder stones and only know what worked in this case, but found this (see quote & links below - may have to copy & paste the last part of link if it wraps ) quite informative: B-Naturals Newsletter - November 2009 Struvite and Calcium Oxalate Urinary Stones and Crystals By Lew Olson, PhD Natural Health Link: http://b.ss36.on9mail.com//new/en_send_pre...597&N\ ewsletterID=492162&EmailID=71125528 “Quote: There are a variety of stones and crystals that can affect our dogs. I often get inquiries on how to treat stones when diagnosed during a veterinarian visit. The first question I ask is, "What type of crystal or stones was found?" Each type of crystal or stone is addressed in two very different approaches. Struvites These are most commonly caused by urinary tract infections. Bacteria in the urine cause alkaline urine (high pH) which creates the perfect environment for struvite crystals to develop. When struvite crystals are found in a urinalysis done at your veterinarian's office, the next step is to have your vet do a sterile urine culture and sensitivity test. This test is done in house at the vet's office. The urine is collected in a sterile manner and sent off to a lab to grow and identify the bacteria that is present. This provides the information on which antibiotic would be the best choice. Usually the antibiotic is given for a month and then another culture is done when the dog has been off the antibiotics for ten days to make sure the infection is gone. Once the infection is gone, the urine returns to a normal pH and the problem is resolved. Keep alert to any symptoms that a UTI has returned. The symptoms could include frequent urination, blood seen in the urine or pain upon urination. Always take your dog to your veterinarian should any of these symptoms occur. Diet changes aren't helpful for this problem, as most often the struvites are responding to bacteria in the urinary tract. For more information, please visit this website: http://vettechs.blogspot.com/2005/05/so-yo...-struvites.html Calcium Oxalates These are most common in dogs over five years old and most frequently seen in males. It is common in certain breeds, such as Miniature Schnauzers, Miniature Poodles, Yorkshire Terriers, Bison Frises, Lhasa Apsos and Shih Tzus. It is thought this may be a genetic condition that causes a lack nephorcalin, which inhibits calcium oxalates from developing. Steroids can aggravate a calcium oxalate former which can create more calcium excretion in the urine. Cushing's disease may also lead to calcium oxalate stone formation, as the increased cortisol production causes calcium excretion. Other medications to avoid for dogs prone to calcium oxalates besides steroids include furosemid, also known as lasix. Symptoms can include difficulty in urinating, blood in the urine, inability to urinate in a steady flow or even increased urination. With any of these symptoms, please have a complete check up on your dog by your veterinarian. Unlike struvites, diet changes can be helpful for dogs prone to oxalates. The primary foods that contain oxalates are grains and vegetables. Since dog foods are primarily grains, the best way to achieve a good diet is to offer a homemade diet. In this way, the ingredients and quality of the foods can be monitored. Foods to avoid would include barley, corn, brown rice, wheat, soy, most beans, potatoes, sweet potatoes, spinach and nuts. Foods that can be fed include all meat, dairy (no flavoring or sweeteners, NOT soy based), eggs, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, white rice, canned pumpkin, and meat and fish broths. Some sources can vary on assessing the oxalate content of food, so compare several lists. Some charts of low oxalate vs. high oxalate foods are listed here: http://www.ohf.org/docs/Oxalate2008.pdf http://www.lowoxalate.info/food_lists/cat_lod_food_chart.pdf A good proportion to feed would be approximately 65% to 75% animal protein, and 25% to 35% carbohydrate (vegetables listed above or white rice). Approximate feeding amounts are 2% to 3% of the dog's body weight daily. On average, a 100 lb. dog would get 2 to 3 lbs. of food daily (approximately 4 to 6 cups), a 50 lb. dog would get 1 to 1 to 1-1/2 lbs. daily (2 to 3 cups) and a 25 lb. dog would get 8 oz. to 12 oz. daily (1 to 1 ½ cups). You would also need to add calcium carbonate, at a rate of about 900 mg per pound of food served. Calcium can be another issue for calcium oxalate formers. While it is uncertain whether or not calcium will create problems, it is know that calcium excretion in the urine can form crystals and stones, so it is suggested to avoid foods that are high in calcium. Additionally, the medications listed above that can cause calcium excretion in the urine should also be avoided. You may add some yogurt or cottage cheese, but only as a small part of the diet, not as main ingredient. You will need to add calcium to diet, but use a calcium carbonate supplement WITHOUT vitamin D. Vitamin D increases the intake of calcium. A sample diet for a 25 lb. dog for one day (divided into two meals) might be: ¾ cup cooked hamburger 2 eggs 1 tablespoon yogurt 4 oz steamed and mashed cauliflower Another sample diet might be: ¾ cup cooked chicken breast 4 oz chicken heart 1 tablespoon cottage cheese 4 oz white rice You may use meat portions for these recipes that your dog enjoys. The same would apply for the smaller ratio of carbohydrate choices. Be sure to use variety foods and avoid getting 'stuck in a rut' using the same type of meat or carbohydrate over and over. Meat suggestions include ground beef, ground chicken, ground turkey, ground pork, baked white fish, beef, chicken, pork or turkey heart and lamb. Carbohydrates to use include white rice, Brussel Sprouts, canned pumpkin, green peas, white cabbage, zucchini, acorn squash, Bok Choy, melon and egg noodles, Do COOK (boil, not steam) all vegetables (and the rice) before serving. Cooking is thought to reduce some of the oxalate content, and raw vegetables contain a higher oxalate value on most oxalate food level charts. Additional supplements would include EPA fish oil capsules, at one per ten lbs of body weight daily, and a B complex vitamin. Additional Methods to Help Resolve Crystals and Stones Both struvite and calcium oxalates prevention require having water available around the clock and a moist diet to help flush the crystals. This would include offering water around the clock, giving treats of beef or chicken broth and allowing the dog many opportunities to urinate during the day. All of this helps to flush the crystals and keep the dog hydrated. Holding urine or water can cause increases of crystal formation, leading to stone formation. B Vitamins are thought to help fight crystal development and EPA fish oil (omega 3 fatty acids) are renal protective. Treats can be offered in the form of baked liver, hard boiled eggs and jerky treats. Do avoid grain laden dog treats if your dog is prone to calcium oxalates. Continuous monitoring of your dog's health in regard to crystals and stones is needed in both conditions to insure your dog is infection free and that stones are not developing.” (End quote)

If the urine is retained over a long period and thus pools in the bladder, it can become very concentrated (& stagnant) and predisposes the bladder to infection - which can show as haematuria. (Blood in urine). Once the dog is peeing normally again the symptoms usually subside however if there is an ongoing bladder infection, the Vet really should request a culture and sensitivity test to determine the correct antibiotic to use. A bladder infection and thus inflammation, can itself cause/create stones in the bladder. Recently cared for a dog which had been paralysed due to a prolapsed disc - which also caused it to lose control of its urinary/faecal elimination and continence, but retaining urine as well which caused a urinary tract infection. Treated by a course of antibiotics, the symptoms recurred 2 days after finishing the course. Instead of antibiotics the dog was given actual dried cranberries (the fruit itself) a heaped teaspoonful 2 x day with meals. (16kg dog). Within a day or so the blood in the urine vanished and all signs of the UTI as well. The dog regained continence soon after and has had no further infections, but is given 1 teasp dried Cranberries with its meal each day just as an insurance. He loves the dried fruit and will even eat it from the hand like a treat. I would try Cranberry as a supplement, either the tablets or the fresh, dried fruit itself. (I found ours at the local IGA) Once the infection has resolved, there may be no further problem with bladder stones. JMHO. Based on past experience. ;)

Looks just like a relative's dog from years ago - farm type Kelpie-cross (over the fence job!) x purebred Fox Terrier. :p Smart, determined, loyal, fearless, plus lots of personality. Very long-lived.

There was a Rottweiler with suspected parvo when I was at the vet on Wednesday ;) . That was Midland area to. Parvo last week in the Bunbury Pound too :p :D I know I should probably know this already, but is Parvo a seasonal thing?? Nasty that its rearing its ugly head around the place! Rat Yes but is it Parvo or something else? Just a warning - not sure it is actually Parvo or a variation of it but a fully vaccinated 6 month old pet pup in the Armadale/Brookdale area has just been dreadfully ill with a haemorrhagic gastro-enteritis which started last Sunday - onset of symptoms was rapid and progressive (less than 24 hrs from looking a bit lethargic to catastrophically sick) - They nearly lost him and he is still in hospital. It was very sudden onset after his owner had been playing with a litter of 6 week old puppies across the road, which became ill just before the 6 month old and one pup from the litter died just before the half-grown pup showed signs of illness. Apparently the dam of the litter was allowed to frequent a nearby park and could have transmitted the pathogen back home to the litter. Two blood tests for Parvo in the sick 6 month old dog were negative but apparently Parvo was found in a poo sample - although one Vet commented that as Parvo is endemic in the dog population anyway a positive sample could be expected. Normally the presence of Parvo virus does not cause disease or creates only mild symptoms in vaccinated dogs. Whatever the infective agent is - corona virus/ a mutated Parvo virus or something else, it is really, really bad news. Be careful. Make sure all vaccinations are up to date - although that didn't help in the case of the older pup.

If she returns to her former bright demeanor, eats her dinner this time and keeps it down, then ok.. ..however if she vomits again I would be hearing alarm bells for the likelihood that she does have a stomach or intestinal blockage. If the blockage is located in her stomach her vomit will probably contain much clear mucous but if further down the intestinal tract that may not be so. If she vomits this morning's meal take her back to your Vet. They should do an x-ray to check for an obstruction but remember that some obstructions do not show up well on x-ray. (Such as plant seeds/socks etc). Hope its not that. Good luck!

I don't normally comment in these threads but.. Erny thank you for your contributions and I hope many dog owners are reading them and taking in what you are saying. I have lived and interacted with dogs all my life. When did it become fashionable for dog owners to allow their dog to run up to strange dogs and people and harass them without either their invitation or permission? Other dogs and their owners, off or particularly on leash should be able to enjoy the their walk and the ambiance and open space of a park without having to fend off unwanted loose dogs running over, off-lead and completely NOT under the control of their minder. Off lead does not mean out of control. If you are there with a group of dog owners and you all agree that your dogs can play together off lead, then fine. However, do not allow your dog to bound up to other dogs and people you do not know, uninvited. This is plainly irresponsible and you and your dog are entertaining yourself at the expense of someone' else's enjoyment of their walk. Not good etiquette. Other dogs are not there for the entertainment of your own. If you or your dog want to interact, then please ASK the other owner's first. If I can relate an incident from yesterday. Husband and I are walking dogs on lead, two each. We are using a route used for over 10 years, part of which crosses a large oval. If there are no dogs loose on the oval we do allow our dogs off-lead for this section, still under our control as they can be recalled. Any young ones still without reliable recall remain on lead. Yesterday there was a mixed group of several dogs and owners having a lovely time playing and throwing balls etc in the middle of the oval so our dogs stayed on lead and we gave them a wide berth, skirting around the far perimeter. Half way around, I heard shouting and looked up to see a little white fluffy dog barreling across the oval towards us, totally ignoring his handlers calling. Our dogs are not in the least aggressive HOWEVER they are walking in their pack (which to their minds includes us) and this little dog is making a beeline for us, barking loudly and using dominant body language. The dogs lunge forward to meet this perceived threat and I have to hold them back behind me and step between them and the little dog as it closes in. When he gets within close range he has second thoughts.. (as sensible dogs do when faced with four larger dogs facing up to them and appearing to be unintimidated.) So he stands just out of range, up on tippy toes, hackles up, staring in an unfriendly way and bawls us out instead. We cannot walk on as every time we try to do so he gets Dutch Courage and hones in on their heels, to which they quickly swing around and get ready to take him on. Our walk stopped, I hear his name being called so step forward and talk to him "Hellooo, is your name Oscar?" "What a good boy" I say in my hypocritically sweetest tone. He is not interested in people, just our dogs so he doesn't mind as I hold his collar to try and keep him at bay from my two straining charges and tickle him under the chin. He finds this a bit confusing; "Huh? I didn't know you guys were our friends, how did you know my name. Here I am being a big guard dog yet now I'm not sure...?" The reason for doing this is so that my own dogs (who want to deal with him) take a cue from me and relax their guarding reflex - but one wrong move and this little dog could be toast in an instant. It is not his fault, but our nice walk has been spoiled and he is in imminent danger. We cannot move so wait, with me trying to keep the little dog at a distance from ours but he is loose and free to dart in while they are on lead. - So not easy to do. We are stuck. Eventually a young girl comes over from the group - I ask her to pick up her little dog. She just stands there, says nothing and stares at us. After some minutes a lady arrives and we manage to get her to pick the still blustering little "Oscar" up. Whew! She is a nice lady and Oscar is a nice little dog - just doing what is natural for a dog. "He won't do anything" she says. All I can answer as we beat a hasty retreat is to say; "Yes but my dogs are part of a pack and he is not. He is in danger if he takes on a strange pack of dogs without getting to know them first." Oscar was not looking to make friends, in his own way he was guarding territory and trying to be a smart-arse. My 4 dogs walking on lead with us would have all gone him if he had barreled into the middle of their group acting in the aggressive way he was initially. It could have been a very nasty and unnecessary incident if we had been as ignorant of dog behaviour as dear little Oscar's owner. Please keep your off-lead dogs under control, do not allow them to harass other people and their dogs without permission. If other dogs are sharing the park or oval and particularly when they're on lead, do not allow your unrestrained dog to run up to them and invade their space. Yes dogs are sociable animals but they are all different and some do not like or even want to meet others outside of their own pack. In many dogs eyes, doggy-polite introductions are first required and a strange dog barreling up to them will most certainly not be welcome. It is much more pleasant for everyone if we could all appreciate that. We should not allow our dogs to spoil the enjoyment of someone else's walk.

As an exhibitor I would prefer a judge to give me a moment to stand my exhibit up (a table breed) so that I can give them the correct outline for the breed. When judging, I preferred to allow exhibitors time to stand their dogs up (ground or table) as this is the best time to form an impression of the dog's correct (or not) outline for its breed, its head planes, its length and set-on of neck which also indicates lay of shoulder, point of withers, forechest depth and shape, and topline, croup, tailset. Overall balance and angulation can be seen (non coated breed) or estimated (coated), the latter requiring confirmation by hands-on examination. (Hands on examination confirms what the eye has already seen and adds details such as foot shape, head proportions, eye colour, bite, earset, rib spring and depth/length of ribbing:loin, elbow set, temperament etc.) If a judge pounces immediately upon my exhibit prior to being given a chance to set it up and show its conformation and true outline, I just assume they are not interested in my breed and thus respect them rather less. Judges can and will chose to use whatever methods of examination they prefer, but if they pounce straight on my dog without bothering to even take a look at it stacked, - I assume they are not really interested in my breed and its doubtful they will see me ever again.

You have all said this so well, and thank you to Jed for writing such a heartwarming post and sharing your delightful day with others. Yes the first day outside is really special and you are so right about the grumpy old grandmas'. If only some human children were taught basic politeness and respect for others in such a firm, clear, yet loving way. They get told off if they go over the boundaries and do not respect Grannies personal space yet at other times, are on the receiving end of much tolerance and love. I respect and admire the warn, ..warn, ...stare, ...wArrrrrNNNNNNN - ROAR/& snap!!! the air technique. (Or deliver a nip but never to do harm). Very effective and the clear lesson is delivered in just slightly increasing strength for each persistent transgression of the "rules", and so quickly learned. I love the silence during whelpings - with every furry person listening in.. not moving a hair, knowing what is going on. They wait. They share the anticipation and joy, then just as BD describes, over the next few days they are just DYING to see the new babies and are so overjoyed when allowed a sneak peak while Mum is outside. Having puppies is a very special joy and also a great responsibility. I do feel so sorry for the commercially bred puppies who never have a chance to enjoy the sense of belonging to a real and caring "family" prior to ending up in a glass box in a shop window.

Good grief I know nothing about breeding Labradors and may be out of my depth here, but this is an 18week old baby! Baby puppies of all breeds go through many kinds of stages as they grow - sometimes parts of their skeletal structure goes out of balance as one area grows at a different pace to another, but give them time to finish growing and it all balances up and comes good again in the adult dog. (Or growing foal-horse, this applies to them as well.) The body grows at different rates in different areas and for a while, this can and does affect appearance and movement of the gawky baby. I would not allow the type of Veterinary examination your youngster has endured - that in itself could be harmful to its young joints and tender emotional development. I once had a young & over-enthusiastic vet roughly go over my young pup's hindquarters "looking" for HD with unrequired and IMO useless manipulations, it hurt, it also freaked the youngster out on his first vet surgery visit and he remembered that examination for years and remained uneasy in similar situations. (& BTW he was hip-scored as an adult for hip score 0:3 and is still fully sound as a veteran.) If you are concerned about HD, hips can and should be checked via x-ray once the dog has fully stopped growing. Until that time the skeletal joints and long bones are in a stage of development - the hip joint in particular is made up of multiple bones and these mould around the head of the femur as the puppy grows. It is a dynamic process and you are still "watching" a work in progress. Personally if it was my pup I would simply feed him a nutritionally balanced diet but keep him fit and lean, allow him natural play and give the poor fellow time to finish growing. Wait and see. Nature works in her own way in her own time. Not a believer in aggressive intervention and surgery, especially at this young age. Just my very unqualified opinion, but based on decades of observing and raising dogs and a few horses.

That photo is very interesting. Dilute "blue" dogs with the alleles d_d normally come with slate blue pigment (as in above photo) and the same slate/bluish tone to their eye colour. This photo shows a blue dog with normal brown eye colour. Is this always the case and unique to Staffordshire Bull Terriers?

Had exactly the same problem repeatedly with a neighbour's cat, eventually cleaned it up with Martha Gardner's Wool Wash and hosed off thoroughly. Then sprayed screen door, doorstep and all over the main door base with Aerogard insect repellent. (Cats HATE Aerogard). Never saw cat again for months - then he tried it one more time, repeated the above with extra lashings of Aerogard on porch mat and the little turd hasn't been back for five years and counting. ;)

Very interesting news, thanks for sharing Clemevi. I found a link to the legislation on the State Law Publisher site: http://www.slp.wa.gov.au/legislation/statu...8_homepage.html You can click on and obtain a PDF, Word or html version to view.

*snap* LizT

Also be careful with the Furminator, they do a good job of stripping out loose undercoat but will scratch the skin if used in a too heavy-handed manner. Drag it through the coat, but don't press down hard or you may abrade the dog's skin.