The Spotted Devil

Agree if you have piggies lol - at 6 weeks my working ESS are munching through quarter chicken carcasses. They were swallowing necks whole

Yes that's me @Roova I don't get paid by the way - although occasionally I might get access to some bonus material - but it really is about that sense of community. When you are feeling frustrated or something in your training has gone pear shaped or you want to celebrate the Recallers community is a pretty cool place.

It's technically an annual fee but if you make a video for the contest you've got a very good chance of free access for that year. I have not paid since my first year. Renewals for the other courses are MUCH cheaper too. She talks about value a lot and I thought it was just marketing. But it's true. The live coaching calls, all the bonuses - I love it.

Remembering that the Brittany isn't a Spaniel, but as a pointing breed it's totally ok for them to range further. But a Spaniel you need them to work within shooting range. Yes the genetic instinct is amazing. They are just so methodical and determined.

Roova this will be my 4th year. Never regretted it as she really looks after her alumni. I'm an instructor in there too now! I also do H360, Agility Nation and Puppy Peaks

Good question! All I've ever done with Em is to teach her to run straight because, in retrieving, the straightest dog wins! That's probably the 3rd time in her nearly 7 years that I've actually WANTED her to quarter. For Ginny, that's her first time ever working game.

I've been thinking about this....my Dally and my Springers are not the easiest. They will run fast in the opposite direction and not give a shit. But if they are close by and you are REMOTELY upset (not even with them) they will quickly shut down. I think that's part of what makes them challenging. Oh and the Spaniels have THE softest mouth and dog-dog interactions. They are the sweetest house dogs. So soft doesn't equal easy either.

Looking good @Rebanne!

Yes he certainly could!

For a novice owner I'd be recommending against breeds and, in particular, genetic LINES that have a strong genetic drive e.g. working Gundog, herding breeds, terriers, hounds. I hear novice people saying all the time that they want a "smart dog". Um. No. You don't It does come down to the individual owner and, if they want a high energy, high drive, smart dog then they better know what to expect! And be prepared to put the work in.

At the end of the day dogs are a product of genetics and environment. I'm sorry you are going through this. As others have said it's normal for dogs to get over aroused when people come to the door, it can be extremely self-rewarding and so there is a plenty of training that should be happening as well. What sort of socialisation was done with the pup? One poor experience at the dog park as a youngster can lead to a lifetime of fear and aggression by the way. It helps to understand the possible causes but at the end of the day I simply train the dog in front of me. I would be working on plenty of positive reinforcement based training, calming protocols and desensitisation. As a side note, I own very high drive working Springer Spaniels and they are the most relaxed dogs in the house. Working/worrying in the home is simply NOT a trait I would attribute to any working Spaniel worth their salt.

@corvus and when you get them trotting along nicely it is apparently inevitable that I will relax and get distracted, their nose will suddenly take over and they hit the end of the lead with such force that we both risk being injured. I can't believe how much power Em can generate at only 16kg. Ginny is even stronger.

A classic case of work = play = work. Em did 5 hours of that on the Saturday, 3 hours on Sunday and then came into season on Monday. A day in the life of It took ME several days to recover on the other hand!!!

So, this is what my dogs would rather be doing x 10000....and this is their default pattern on leash....back and forth, back and forth. As I said previously they don't have a strong walking or trotting gait as a default. Yes, there's no doubt you can teach a dog to trot but never doubt that there is an element of genetic selection. My Dalmatian trots ALL day but he tends to canter where the Springers gallop.

Because running full tilt is what they do. Most people don't get it until they see them in action. It's like a herding breed that flanks or gives eye. Yes you can train them not to do it but when I weigh up my training priorities (recalls, agility, retrieving, working in the field) walking nicely on leash is WAY down my list. Maybe it's as much that I don't like on leash walks with multiple Springers

There's no going back here

And we have a count of 5 Thornfield babies on the Ultrasound!!! Due on the 11th

At the end of the day my ESS really don't love going for walks. My Dalmatian absolutely does - will trot for hours. So I tend to bundle everyone in the car, head to some open ground, do some training and then let them have a sprint. It works for us very well and it's something I always tell my puppy people.

I will say up front that the working line ESS are sooooo much more difficult to train to walk nicely And that comes from someone who trained a Dalmatian first!!! Mainly because they really don't do a walk or trot. It's asleep. Or sprint. Or quarter. Mine are very good off leash but that's where I put the training in. Essentially you want to build value for being by your side in a LOW distraction environment first. That means your kitchen or bathroom. I use LOADS of treats. Walks at this young age are about training not exercise so I would be literally focussing on a stationary position next to you first. Then add one step at a time. Then when you have success add distractions. Practice walking nicely to the door. Reward with a release outside to play. So you start to use LIFE rewards as well as treats.

Nature is a funny thing but I would normally expect both legs to be knuckling over if it was diet. Although both front legs look very odd in that pic. Could be the photo of course. They should be strong and straight. How old is the pup? It looks very young to be suffering from a growth/diet issue. I'm wondering if the puppy has leapt off something and injured itself? If it doesn't start to correct very soon I would be getting an x-ray and/or second opinion.

My questions would be: 1. What was the breeder feeding? 2. What was your daughter feeding? I would need to understand this first. Photos would also help.

Fortunately I'm not a lawyer lol

A liar is a liar. Every profession and hobby has people of all descriptions and capabilities. Doctors, lawyers, teachers and of course breeders. I've had some crappy doctors in my time but have a simply awesome array of medical folk now (I've had a few serious injuries lately). I take people as I find them.

Agree. Without the trust my breeders put in me I would not have the amazing dogs I have now. Zig is 10 and has not been bred from - although there is a possibility this year. Em has produced one gorgeous litter and hopefully another one if the puppy dust settles properly. Both of my breeders have been incredible mentors for me. I encourage my puppy buyers to leave their dogs entire for 12-18 months. If I had someone wanting to breed I would ensure it happened with my support and guidance. I can't keep pups or breed as much as I would like and it's critical to maintain genetic diversity. As for prices I make no apology for mine. I've just done 3 prog tests @ $55 each (cheap!) plus 3 x trips to Geelong (pretty much 3 days work plus petrol) plus a fresh AI ($180) plus the stud fee. Oh and the eye test. And I won't even know if she's pregnant for 4 weeks...but that will be an ultrasound so more $$$

Yes!!!! Not without a few false starts and bit of creativity and assistance from me but ended up with a 20 min tie. Just call me "Stud Master" Then from Geelong I drove to Bridgewater to run two days of retrieving trials for my club! Em was not happy about not running in All Age. I'm exhausted!!!!