Jumabaar

Congo lines when everyone is on heat!! That being said there is the occasional congo line when no one is on heat The best was when I was visiting a breeder with my bitch, her bitches were on heat so about 7 of them were taking it in turns to ask my girl to hump them LMAO!!

I ticked everything but car travel but now that I think about it I use it for that too! The greatest use is when the dogs go to the vet- they are so used to being crated that they dont stress, and are good to the vet nurses. So I figure they are getting better treatment I start with them at 8 weeks of age- they are crated overnight so they dont get into mischief. And sometimes during the day. I always have crates open for them, and so if they are feeling stressed, most will go in there for time out- I some times lock it so the other dogs cant bother them. I would look at crate games by susan garrette for your dog or the k9pro method- much better than expecting them to know what the crate means! ETA- crate games will help with future dog sports if thats what you wish to focus on in the future.

I think you can get plastic nail covers for dogs nails to stop them scratching the floor. I have seen one with them on and I believe they worked quite well. My dogs are indoor/outdoor. Two will quite happily sit outside for most of the day, but the kelpies want to be in the same room as me all the time and duck out for quick toilet breaks. I think the kelpies would have caused alot more trouble digging and barking if they had been locked outside as I am also a uni student and am out most of the day- so whenever i am home they are with me all the time.

Mine all tend to crash after dinner- they have their day sleeping spots, and when its time to sleep they go to their night sleeping spots. Occasionally they get grumpy and bash on the bedroom door when they think i have been up to late!!

I plan on selling my show pups for more, but that has more to do with people buying 'breeding rights' rather than the quality of the puppy. So people who have paid for limited register have not payed for breeding rights, so I can theoretically do something if they try to breed with a pet puppy. Just something interesting. I was told today that my pups were to expensive as they were just wanted a 'pet'. And this is a sentiment I have heard many times. They might be too expensive for their budget, but its not because they are pet quality, it is because they simply do not put the same value on having a well bred pup that is already toilet and crate trained, compared to a cheaper puppy that MAY have sat out in a shed and not had the same contact and training. I think all my pups have exceptional qualities- but they will only be exceptional for the right family so they all should cost the same amount because if they go to the right homes they are all worth the same. I had someone comment that they could get a fully trained failed police dog for $1000, but that it wasn't worth the money. They should just pick up a pound dog for $50. I asked about their situation- they didn't have time for training, but expected the dog to behave. To me it would make sense to pay the extra money to get a dog that fits their requirements, than one because it is cheap...... :D ETA- why shouldn't a WELL BRED pup cost $2000 of any breed? It comes down to supply and demand I guess, but I dont think that is an unreasonable price- certainly wouldn't cover costs but I cant understand why puppies have to be cheap???

Well, when you see the same breeders regularly having puppies for sale, you know they are not showing so why would they keep breeding litters? It's certainly not to produce themselves a top dog, but their prices are way up there. I would say that if the puppies they are producing are healthy and well adjusted and the parents are being well looked after and have been health tested and not overbred then I truly don't have a problem with it. If you can make money doing something you enjoy and you are not harming anyone then whats the big deal? Some may be breeding so that people have the option to have well bred (healthy with good temperament) puppies of their chosen breed. They might not keep puppies due to limits put on them from council, or they may be genuinely interested in producing good quality pets. Just because they don't show does not automatically mean that they make money from a litter. If they are still doing health testing, using the best dogs they can find, and offering the best food, veterinary care and attention to their puppies I cant see a problem. They would still have the same costs as a breeder who is showing dogs so why wouldn't they charge the same?

I look at what other people are selling their pups for and then look at my expenses. I spent money on a stud fees, c- section, have had one pup get sick and so had additional vet fees, food wormers and they will be vaccinated. They will also have had some crate training and are already almost toilet trained at 5 weeks of age. I DO get comments about the price of my dogs (compared to how cheap some, non registered ones are) but I just explain that I know the temperaments of all the dogs behind these dogs, and that they have lived in my house and have already begun training. They are cheap compared to how many hours I have put into raising them!! I was hoping to be a little ahead with this litter so I could look at importing some semen for a litter in the future. (probably not possible with the pup needing vet care now) These pups are not being sold for any more than the going rate because they will cover the expenses. I would consider a slight increase if I knew my expenses were going to far out weigh the income (probably $50) because I really can't afford to breed at a major loss each time- I can and do accept small losses. I would prefer to do that, and ensure that I do not skimp on any of the essentials, and wait for the right owners, than stick with the going rate.

Oh I hope it can be fixed- he is gorgeous!! Perhaps look at the calcium:phosphate ratio, and the protein level of the diet. I remember I had to reduce protein to get my girls feet to straighten up (were a little east west). I have never had any experience with knuckling over, but looking ratios is never going to hurt.

I have worked at a specialist Ortho clinic. Most dogs coped really well. Following post op instructions and rehab- will make a big difference to the recovery. ETA- I know a three legged Kelpie who works sheep (in the paddock as yards are a little dangerous) and does amazing in OB!! It was amputated at a few weeks of age and kept up with its four legged counterparts.

Good luck

There is a yahoo group for all the trials at EP will go hunt it down now And yes Sue Fed does hand out most of the info about it all. ETA- Yahoo group is "herdingEP". There is info on entering, rules and upcoming comps in the files section if you join. It is also posted when training is/isnt on and when working bees are held.

I had help with my boy from a behaviourist. I have 5 very happy well trained dogs, but for number 6 I needed an outside opinion on the best way to deal with him, and new techniques to achieve it. In all honesty I wish I had done it earlier, my boy was unhappy and had developed some really strong habits by the time I did, so the retraining has taken much longer than if I had gone when I first thought about doing it. From a trainer you will go with your dog and they will work with you to put in strategies to resolve the problems. Your in NSW so perhaps K9 pro would be helpful. That is who I went to and I have ongoing support for any new issues that pop up. I struggled for 18mths before I did anything, and I saw dramatic improvements in 3 months. He isn't perfect but he is happy again and so am I. I am still working with him (I am the slack one!) and he is still improving. I hope you do consider this option. I wouldn't give advice over the Internet because you really need to see the dog- body language etc to really try and understand what is motivating him so you can resolve the problems. Some peolpe told me my dogs problems were dominance, it turned out it was fearfullness so addressing this actually solved the motivation of the behavior, not just the manifestations of it.

Just wanted to see how everyone is going? I cant believe my guys are 5 weeks old!! Here is a link to some pictures http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?s=&a...t&p=5250712

And yes white has a rainbow collar LMAO!!!

http://www.arhvets.com/ Homebush- 02 9758 8666 There may be others closer but I am not sure. Ring the above number to talk to the Animal Referral Hospital and they will be able to give you advice!! I hope it isnt too bad!

I will be at the Kelpie specialty on the Saturday. Thankfully it wont take long

I am not so fussy about the chicken fat. My boy isnt allergic- If he eats raw chicken (even a little mixed in with other food) he vomits it back up about 20 minutes later. But will quite happily chug down BBQ chicken (I dont give it to him anymore though)!! It happened when he was about 8mths old when I offered him chicken carcass that he vomited back up, and also a turkey neck. If you try to encourage him to eat a neck or carcass he will actually make himself vomit!! Although he will try and steal raw chicken offal :D which I then get to clean up. I haven't noticed difference since taking him off chicken based kibble but figure it cant hurt I just don't see why dog food companies don't understand that there is a market for people that cant/dont want to feed chicken to their dogs!!

OK looks like I am off to get some samples of Neutro and Canidea then I get to do the sniff test after a week lol. The bison and lamb sounds interesting FM

It is the same for racing greyhounds, they breed litter after litter, and then the pups that are no good are culled... I don't know the figures but imagine it would be very high At least in the greyhound industry they have brought in laws about humane killing of the dogs, I have heard that there are still some trainers out there that don't follow the laws but hopefully most of them do. I have two rescued greyhounds, Ryan was only 16 months old when dumped at a Sydney pound with 4 other young greyhounds, one can only assume that none of them were fast enough. And my mum for most of her life had purebred, registered working kelpies, but her last kelpie was not purebred or registered, just one that she saved because Tess was no good as a worker and her owner was going to shoot her :D Its how I got my first Kelpie. She was the last left and showing no signs of instinct and was headed for a bucket of water :D It is very common out in the country. Those with orders will only keep enough pups to fill the order, and those who dont bother to desex their working dogs have a constant flow of puppies. It is certainly not ideal. Hopefully drugs such as superlorine to castrate male dogs temporarily can be advertised more readily to stop this from happening.

I agree but Milky disagreed lol

Hi Guys, Just wondering if anyone can suggest Lamb based kibble for my dog. He doesn't do well on chicken, so I try to avoid it in kibble. I was using Eagle Pack but am getting grumpy about the supply issues (as has everyone who has done these threads). I have tried Black Hawke and loved it for the rest of my dogs, but my problem child had flakey skin and started to smell when he was on it. So do you have any other suggestions? If not I guess I will be looking at trailing a fish based kibble for him. He can have chicken in there, but not as the primary ingredient.

I have no idea. Pre ankle surgery I would walk for about 1.5 hrs at a time and one dog was off lead wondering around, the other on lead. I could do well over my 10,000 step aim in this time- I would sometimes go longer depending on the weather and the dogs and how lazy I had been during the day. Right now I would probably manage about 1000 steps in 25 minutes (moon boot is on) so that is as far as the dogs get walked. I am going to have to build us all back up to my normal walking speed/distance because everyone but the kelpies has put on weight lol!! I might hit the off lead park- its tiny and fenced- to build up the dogs fitness as I walk around the edge and they get to do zoomies as I can take them all instead just two at a time. But after a few incidences I only go in when no one is there and clear out as soon as anyone turns up so it makes planning a little difficult. ETA- regarding walking styles three of my kelpies are just required to walk on a loose lead so I don't mind if they sniff bit I don't slow down for them either, the fourth is always on a mission so power walks out the front with a lead that is never slack, but doesn't pull either!! And the Lappie goes off lead because I trust her infinitely more than the kelpies lmao.

Huh? It's on at Rosehill Racecourse every year. But yep.. lots of stalls... and show bags at stalls Everyone LOVES getting showbags full of crap lol! They didnt have it last year But normally at the expo I stock up on things in bulk because of the expo deals- treats, shampoo, urine off etc. So I guess getting some of the bigger retailers involved instead of the little ones I see at most council events. Oh and SPACE- nothing worse than a dinky little park overcrowded with a billion dogs!! People handing out free poo bags, and encouraging people to use them

I think the important thing is to have the contract drawn up and signed by both parties before the bitch is even chosen!! I have a bitch co-owened and have every email between myself and her breeder in a folder so there is written proof of the whole agreement. I defiantly think it can work. I personally would do puppy/puppies back rather than sending a bitch anywhere which might make the situation a little more clear than a litter back.

FLYBALL- I definitely leave the house for that because I am usually in them LOL!! I think free microchipping (but it does bring people that I dont want my dogs around!!) but I think they should also encourage checking that the chips are still in place. Vet students doing health checks. A walk or some purpose. Lots of stalls- particularly with the pet expo not being on here in sydney.