Dogsfevr

remove them the problem wont go away . We had a 10 month old with issues & had them removed asap.Some people havent & its affected the dogs enjoyment for the lead as it hurts

Im thinking her journey on the back of the ute has alot to do with her fear.

IMO you would be well within your rights to ask for a refund. this breeder was irresponsible to sell a puppy to such a young family Yes the breeder should have maybe thought twice but new owners also need to realize there capabilities & committment to a dog.Just because the plan is for it to be outside doesnt make training any less.I also believe a cocker isnt an outside dog any & they thrive on human contact & being part of the family & ofcourse need to be trained for grooming. I applaud this breeder for taking the pup back.They didnt have too although we all now its ethically correct. We to are very careful about selling to families with young children. Some we have refused as the parents didnt take any control when greeting our own mature dogs as a tester,others where able to cope well . I think the most important factor is what people expect a dog to be & how much work they feel they want to committ. In our opinion training the pup is the easy part but educating young children how to interact & treat a pup right is harrder & this also moulds a dogs temp for life. Well done for being honest & returning the pup early on. We refund the owners of our pups fully provided it is returned in the same condition it left in ,its in our puppy contract

We have had quite a few over the years(haematomas (SP).Its no big deal & it isnt harmful just annoys the dog.If left it will heal but leave the ear deformed so surgery is best & some are very low set in the ear canal. They simply slice the ear & then sew either x ray film/mesh to the ear so it drains.What a few weeks remove the stuff & easy peasy. If it isnt could be a grass seed,infection etc etc

You could also give ice cream.

It is never too late the key is though to do it correctly . When you arrive i wouldnt just turf Turtle outside with the others. I would do a nutral greet & meet with the JR first as there the ones to most likely react compared to the greys. Simply dont just presume be the one aware of his body language & gauge when you feel he needs time out. Ideally i would reward time out when he is being very good,so when he is either crated etc he is made to feel secure that his behaviour is good. Then make the most of the time you have in Melb.Even if you plan to get him spayed i would do so in melb alot cheaper & vets use to giant breeds.

Yep have clipped off chows due to being so matted it was the only option suitable for the dogs. We also no longer do them due to the aggression showen by the few we have clipped off. Should add we have Double K clippers which can do the job easily .i wouldnt do a chow clip off if i only had wahl,andis,oster just not enough power & to much time.

How does an undercoat grow thicker? Clipping means clipping the quality coat on top ie in Labs that water proof coat . A good breed for example mini schnauzers,cockers.setters,cavaliers. In schnauzers the pets which are clipped end up with a soft,velvety coat due to clipping.Some still retian there true harsh ,wirey coat but the greater number dont & thats becuase clipping removes the correct texture. There is a difference between a breed having undercoar but still retaining the correct outer coat.In Labs they blow there coat twice a year & look naked but they still retain the true top coat until the coat returns. When you use an undercoat rake on a lab the coat removed is dull,soft.It is the dead undercoat thats sheds & builds up.Simply place the removed coat against the area stripped through & you will the difference. Look at show setters & feel there kneck area that is clipped(cockers also) That area is soft & vevelty but the rest of the top coat is a different texture. Clipping isnt a theory its reality but many breeds arent meant to be clipped they have a coat for a set reason & when maintained correctly isnt an issue When you clip the top coat is whats removed not the undercoat,the top often doesnt grow back the same & results in the undercoat taken over. After clipping professionally for 16 years plus the other years of my own showdogs i see every year the long results of clipping.

For those people who say their coat would grow back dreadfully how do you know? Have you done it? Fom experience. It seems you have only had it done once ,each time the dog is clipped the texture is altered more & more . Great if its worked for you but many people are not informed of what can happen & the results it may achieve & a client should be told the facts & make a decision knowing that .A ruined coat takes even longer to dry as clipping enciurages the undercoat to grow thicker

I believe some Rottis can carry the long coat gene & have a different coat & length to a typical rotti so that could be the case. As for this lab & good rake through would do the job.The owners also need to remember it can take a good year or so for the coat to change season patterns this dogs coat would be getting ready for a UK winter so they need to use a good rake to help the dead coat shift. They could clip but if its a black it will regrow a red/choc colour

The goose down coat is normally dead coat that matts & that is the coat that needs to be stripped/combed through regularly if not it will matt over night or in change of weather. You can also use a soft slicker(cat ones are good) to also gently brush through then use the comb method. I agree uy a table or make one .You may also need to buya soft muzzle(this is for extreme use) but be prepared that removing knots hurts & not all dogs tolerate it well & sometimes a muzzle gets an area done way quicker. As said coat kings are great for top coats & can be use on the furnishings to remove dead coat when knot free,i wouldnt use thenmf or knot removeal .We use matt breakers if clients dogs are bad but the good old comb/slicker & patience work just aswell

I would seek the advice of a good groomer.Some knots cannot be removed or shouldnt be due to the pain it causes the dog. Long coats & water require work.After swimming they need to be brushed through

Personnally at that age i would also avoid surgery & just keep mthe home routine very normal & if anything start placing additional water bowls around,even use carpet runners so the dog can learn now whislt still some vision a roadmap.

The surgery for cataracts does have a high failure rate so dont be lead to believe it will be a great success.I know 3 dogs who have had the surgery with non success. How old is the dog??

Hot spots can be due to diet,stress,fleas anything abnormal,coat staying to moist after a wash etc etc Do you give her any treats.What about additional foods to her RC(ie beef,pasta etc etc) Are her feet swollen & red in between the pads & underneath?? She may have a Tinea type allergy(wash her feet in white vinegar) The reality is so many things could be an issue including the shampoo. What does the natural basd shampoo contain,many have tea tree oil which does can react too.

Personally i think you have created some issues with daycare .Weis are very much a routine breed & need to learn very early to be independant & cope on there own otherwise they can become obsesed with destroying anything or barking. A place that doesnt explain structure or what they do is the last place i would leave my dog. As for treats from a boarding kennel point of view we get many dogs that wont eat treats left by there owners,that isnt something i would consider an issue.The dog is in a different place,obviously crated alot & most likely very confused about what is routine. Weis are people dogs & thrive on there masters voice.They dot on there commands & live for them. I would suggest if your neighbours are at home inform them of the pups new routine so they can give you feedback & they wont be upset if things arent good.Give them your mobile neighbour if you are happy too. I would suggest doing the change sooner than latter especially with summer coming up & that there a breed prone to bloat .

When it comes to fleas we will happily tell clients they need to flea bomb there house,spray there yard etc etc.If they dont like it then they can go elsewhere.Whilst your grooming that dog those fleas are jumping off into your equipment,clothes etc etc.You then have to spray your business area to ensure they dont bred or you pass them on to the next client.There is no excuse for fleas in this day & age . We dont keep them on hand but will happily inform the client on what they should do & explain that if they dont the problems long term & the fact as a groomer i do not expect to have to deal with fleas on jmyself.We are lucky & the salon is on our premises but we then have to treat if a dog comes in & i run for the shower & wash the clothes.Those with major repipitive flea issues we refuse to do after awhile

I agree with what the others have said but also realize most breeders pups are pre booked,not all breeders have pups ready for xmas & it wont be that simple with only 6 weeks to go. Rushing doesnt mean the right combo works out. I do agree with others op sexes is way better & i totally agree that if the dog is for other half then he must have input & by the same token there is no guarantee the said pup will be your hubbies either.dogs attch themselves to some people more as its a breed trait to be more one persony & some people just have a better affinity with dogs. As a breeder we dont sell pups as gifts or surprises.If its being brought for someone then that someone must be involved with selectionof the pups.Having input for selecting stages means alot & what you may like doesnt mean its what hubby would pick

The first thing is what was he feed that started the attack?? Things like pig ears etc etc can be all to much,besides his diet what treats has he been given. Generally a low fat diet is what is used & with our girl who had it we feed her smaller meals ,ore often

Dual doors here & used 6/7 days a week & no leaking.Dual doors for large dogs is a must especially if older & arthritic

I use powder occasionally on my showdogs & its washed out asap .I wouldnt apply to a boarder that may not be bathed agin in quite awhile. I also use white shampoos on the showdogs but thses normally have to be left on for set period to work well & even if a dog is real dirty it can take a few good scrubs to get the full results. For the boarders we simply use a very mild wash .For grooming its the same plus a good flea/tick wash. The coloured shampoos can be harsh on coats & not all suit each coat,in the whites it can send a dog blue if diluation rate isnt correct.

What diet did the breeder suggest?? Changing the diet all the time will only make things worse.Eating grass is a sign of a gut ache & issues & the grass is a natural soother. Some pups can get some runs when in there new home but i wouldnt call it normal providng the diet is still followed through. If it was mine i would be feeding it a chicken & pumpkin(pumpkin is better for the runs) for atleast a week or more to settle the dogs stomach. I would go to the chemist a buy floramx tabs to reintroduce the good bacteria to the gut. You need to also loook at what treats,whether it is stealing the other dogs food etc.It needs to go a on a strict bland diet asap to get things under control/ There is a dog product called protexin(sp) that is great for dogs with tummy issues.your vet should now this.

We have single tank on wheels with dual doors.It is plumbed in the bath area but on wheels so we can move it. I have never botherd with the dual tanks & have never found the need for it after 20 plus years.

When its stripped in sections it means as the coat grows it matches.The back grows slower than the head,kneck & bum.When you strip out in one go you will end up with a longer kneck,head than the back. Depending on your dogs coat texture because as i said not all minis have the right coat for stripping ,you could attempt to roll the coat but we generally do that when its been stripped in sections & then try & get the coat to last as long as possible . To roll the coat measn you at home need to maintain the coat & sit there pulling the bad coat from the good. It does look nice but is very time consuming & simply put if you dont work on the coat between the groomer it will look awful very quickly.It does grow faster in summer & will blow much quicker. The coat can only be stripped right back when its dead/blown.Rolling means pulling the dea hairs out whilst retaining the good coat underneath.I might add not all coats suit rolling. Obviously yours is a pet so it doesnt need to be perfect but a stripped coat is only as good as the maintance & we clip all our retirees. Also be awre if they have ben stripped back make sure the dog doesnt sunburn Some of the mini breeders do teach grooming as you will need to get some basic gear to do the at home stuff . Not sure what part of melbourne you are but a breeder in Cranbourne does teach grooming & a number of others may help. We stripped back to bare skin as do nearly all the exhibitors in australia & it doesnt affect the undercoat as that grows back & we are certianly not penalized.

Actually kennel owners have no probs calling all clients & infact when this process is done kennel owners soon find out that many people dont bother to call the kennels asap to let them now. Dogs can carry canine cough for 165 days & when the sitaution is right the symptons show up. It is an airborne virus so it travels around the suburbs very quickly even those dogs that dont leave home. How long was the dog in boarding for??Did they phone the kennel to tell them ???