Dogsfevr

Is the breeder able to assist?? The key is to maintain the coat weekly .he problem with over doing the stripping to quickly is it can be very obvious & of course needs to still blend with the body coat

Was he stripped back bold?/There seems to be alot of undercoat still there . In the after photos he has alot of undercoat still there.Depending on how he has been stripped in the past generally you strip in sections as the head & kneck grow faster than the back.It isnt that hard to do it yourself & depending on what undercoat rake you are using the tool may not be suitable for his coat or to keep rolling it What you need to remember is Gomez coat may still be going through the climate change winter here /summer there but our winters arent as cold so it blows the coat quickly.

The breeder should have given you a diet sheet,vacc card,worming advice etc etc. Given the pup left at 7.5 weeks i presume there not a registered breeder otherwise it was sold under age. I agree with the previous poster get a vet check now. With our pup we encourage all new owners to vet check the pup within 48 hrs. Your pup needs a minium of 3 meals aday but i would look at 4. Diets vary so much but a good puppy biscuit plus raw meast etc . What are you feeding now or what was suggested . If she hasnt been given the puppy milk prior to i wouldnt bother. Our pups get goats milk & dpeneding on what the pups are doing prior to leaving we have either weaned off it it or inform the new owners on that pups food regime as some pups can vary.

We use nail clippers or dremel/ There are plenty of wrong type nail clippers out there that will cause more harm. ACP is a sedative but it should only be considered after consult with a vet & the dog is very healthy.It makes them drowsy .This would only be for an extreme case. The prob with vets/nurses doing the nails is most of them havent a clue either unless there out cold so i would only recommend a vet where it is in the dog best benefit to be knocked out .

As a groomer we find that doing the nails is the easy part its generally the reaction of the dog that is the issue.If there white nails easy peasy but if there black & the dogs really fights you to the point the dog is at risk & the groomer then we have no issues in telling them its a vet job or discuss with your vet about given it an ACP just for the nails & do a seperate visit.(we have never had to do that option) Cutting the quik would be in an extreme case in total nail neglect but we have done so especially in dew claws that have double curled & you cant tell the start from the end . Its important to ensure in neglact nails you have some product on hand to stop the bleeding asap & tell the owners . One of my dogs had its nails cauterized & it was the best thing ever

My dogs sleep on the bed all year but there also showdogs & we spend many times away at caravan parks,motels etc.Generally they sleep in the dog floats & the odd places that will allow the dogs inside they stay in there crates & they accept this very well.The crates are like a second home & when travelling or visiting especially in the very hot weather a crate trained dog is a blessing. I also fly east & stay with rellies for shows & as there elderly my dogs can stay in there crates when its required & all is well For example with the massive bushfires or extreme heatwaves being able to safely house a dog in a crate when these occasions happen is a godsend We where involved in evacutating showdogs this year due to fires & as they where all use to crates (it was very hot & smokey ) the dogs where safely evacuted to peoples home but where crated when needed & the dogs where very relaxed during this traumatic time.

What was the dogs original diet & what treats do you give(schmackos etc etc)?? What breed is Ali??

We use Ferric chloride it seals it instantly

As said if you think this will be the easy way until older think again.Toilet training starts now,what the pup learns now is what they follow through for life " toilet to go whenever she wants." exactly so you achieve no tiolet training at all & to retrain an older dog is not easy. Sleepness nights is part of getting a pup nothing is easy & there is no easy way out for achieving life long results

Not me ,see no benefits in it & you just end up with a dog going silly due to being hungry.

Cavnrott yes i had a brain fart moment should read a good groomer wouldnt clip a cavies coat. Oscamia it sounds like the groomers already clip the top coat & that is why its growing back thicker & fluffier. When you clip a cavies coat you clip the good texture & the undercoat is what is left.The undercoat is what you dont want as thats what grows thick,fluffy & dead looking,no sheen. Evene when you use thinners it still ruins the coat in many ways. For a cavie its simply just stripping the top coat,The coat kings are good but you can use a simple Knit/flea comb & do just a good a job. We clip some off as already said its in the dogs best interests as the owners wont brush but the majority we hand strip but we do trim there feet short & infact the hand stripping is far easier & for the pet owners the coat dries quicker,it easier to maintain because your removing the dead coat that matts which is the undercoat.

Good groomers would clip a cavies coat .There not a clipped coat breed. The fluff is dead coat that needs to be pulled out but if you like the coat you will encourgae that fluffy coat to become worse . The coat king is a stripping tool that will remove all that dead coat & leave you with a lovely shiny cavie coat. I would suggest before you even buy the clippers you understand what you want the dogs to look like. I would contact some cavie breeders & see if anyone can assist you . If you go to the breed pages at the botton & then click on cavalier you will see what a natural cavie coat should look like & is that what you want .Those coats are never clipped & if you clip the dog will never look like them. Infact clipping a cavie coat makes it more hardwork

I think what people need to understand is its not a case of being "dominant" this can ruin a dogs nature. What is required is respect,fairness(people not stirring/creating an unwanted result) & above all consistancy. Be consistant in what you want as a result but most importantly all family members need to apply the same rules.

The other thing to remember is often when the pup nipping starts the humans have started a game that is no longer fun.Make sure that your not starting something .think about when its worse

Personally i would buy a soft muzzle.When the dog is snappy the owners tend to tread with caution,dog nows this & rules the roost.No one wants to get bitten. Once the dog has the muzzle on you have 2 free hands to work with without worrying about being bitten.I can safely say as a groomer if theres any chance of being bitten we will muzzle & the dogs actually become little charmers & the area tha needs brushing is done so easily & quicker that the time spentt hanging onto its face & using one hand. You most certainly need to brush on a table & you MUST have a non slip matt.Grooming shouldnt be a bribery match & generally speaking most dogs arent frieghtened they have just one the battle from an early age or the owners are using the wrong tools or brushing on the ground "At puppy school, we were taught a trick for getting puppies used to grooming. Dante used to bite at the brush etc and I couldn't brush him from the time I got him for about 2 months.' You could brush him he just set the rules & won the battle.Dogs react to what the humans do,most with pups brush them so the dog tries to mouth/bite & all hell breaks lose.Dog sets the rules & the humans become very unconfidient,dog nows this & walks all over them. Grooming should be enjoyable but it isnt a bribery game its something that must be done. It isnt about time as a groomer that is never an issue but its a case of clipping etc can be very dangerous when dogs have no manners or perform over the top .There is a chance of injury to the dog & injury to the groomer whether it be attempted bitting or damage on the joints

Why 6 weeks because they dont have to pay for the solid foods for the next 2 weeks plus,they dont get the 6 week vaccs done & no vet check so no money paid.I believe many no what there doing they just dont want to spend the money in doing the right thing.

"Some show people will be horrified " I dont now any show person that would be horrified,the only time show people will add there input is when someone has focused so much on the sit it does it automatically & the dog is very confused.I have done both but i made sure the dog was very offay with "stand" & then added the sit. The healing can be an issue if the dog doesnt understand show/obedience.The problem with the close heel is the dog looks up & it often alters the dogs front movement so when the dog runs in the ring in the heel position you often see the flip/flop front instead of reach so its important to define show run

Also sonsider wild birds can carry disease so i would be wary in encouraging them to much plus it can become a nuisance. The person in the back street started to feed the birds & would end up with so many there the noise & poop was over the top. I have gundogs any bird that lands in the backyard does so at its own risk.Some havent left ,others have been lucky but i would also be awar that Boxers are a high risk breed for bloat?gastric torsion & you dont want the dog to become so over whelmed or obseesed with the birds it increarses his risk

Would you like to sleep with aturd in your sleeping area?? I dare say the pup is scratching to go to the loo & if you dont respond to what he is asking your missing part of the crucial toilet training signal which means he will learn that toileting inside is whats expected . The laundry can be a cold,drafty room & not all pups settle into that sort of routine. The crate will stop the sratching but if your not going to address the pups call s for toileting you may have a problem no matter what. There is tough love but there is also educating

What sort of lead are you using. With our pups we will sit out the front Let the pup freee roam on a long leash to get use to the lead,once accepted we then start lead training.Basically dont lower yourself. Make sure the lead is suitable. With your voice tone make the walk fun & enticing,walk backwards if you have too.If pup has a mild tainty wait till its finished & then proceed.If pup does a quick burst make sure you praise .

Our male minis we suggest 5 months.The breed in general is a very clean dog but the biggest leg lifting problem are owners.When they go for walks they stop at every tree etc to let the dog lift its leg.Its a big NoNo with our dogs & even my entire male showdogs of another breed will squat as per taught,i dont encourgae leg lifting & i dont head for the nearest tree ,

I would scrape the rice & use pumpkin which is way better for the runs .I would go to the health food shop & buy acidopholous(ican never spell it ) tablets way better than yoghurt. Here you can buy lectade for replacing lost fluids via illness & im amazed the vet hasnt sold you it.

I would right a letter to the owner of the practise asking why the vet you saw believes this. I would point out that for 15 yrs you have used that clinic but after the last visit will be seriously considering changing vets due to those comments . I would certainly see what vets are around incase you dont get a good response but i would make the clinic accountable for there staffs comments

I would be inclined to say the groom they did was the normal short all over hairdo that is the norm for that cross. Alos at 9 months the coat is still at the fluffy & floppy stage & most groomers do a nice puppy clip & then the next clip you may try something different or the coat texture can be starting to change. It depends how long they left the legs to how short you wanted it,again with the face,did you want shaved like a dobermanns head or still fluffy with a bit of character?? I wouldnt right off the first groom & i wouldnt attempt to groom the dog unless you believe you can teach it manners at the same time.we groom many dogs that the owners started with & there nightmares. depending on how short you wan you need to too take into account the thickness of the coat.Do it too short you could clip it bald. Clipping isnt a case of use this blade & go for it you need to understand the texture,uderstand the thickness & undercoat & then use a blade that suits the coat for the desired result.

"was told by the breeder not to walk him over a kilometer for the first 12 to 18 months of his life." Are you sure they said that distance?? Its crucial not to over do it under 12 months & then ideally build up after 12 months to get the dog in good fitness before just lifting the distance too much.