Miss B

Definately interested, depending on cost If we do stay at CT we will be looking at a private room.

...anyone?

I'm after some advice about how best to handle this situation. We have a female Siberian Husky here who we adopted from the pound as she was going to be PTS. She's almost 2 years old but other than that, I know very little of her history. I took her to work last Monday and had her spayed and since then, she's been living inside with us while she recovers. We've got three other dogs here already - a 14-year-old entire Kelpie cross bitch (doesn't belong to us but lives here), an 8-year-old desexed male Siberian, and our 5-month-old entire Siberian bitch. The new girl has had supervised time outside with the other dogs, for toilet breaks and to stretch her legs. She has been fairly agressive towards our 5-month-old Sibe bitch in particular, but doesn't pay too much attention to the older 2 dogs. She growls at our bitch, stands over her with hackles up and is basically very dominant. She also stands over the other two older dogs and attempts to mount the male Sibe. He is extremely tolerant of her, but our little 5-month-old Sibe bitch gets quite snappy and upset when she is challenged. Because of this, we've been muzzling the new Sibe bitch when she is outside on supervised toilet breaks. Just this afternoon she got into quite a serious scrap with our little Sibe bitch - if she wasn't muzzled at the time I think she would have done some serious damage because she really got stuck into her, and she meant business. Is this a dog-agression problem in the new bitch? Or is it just them sorting out their pack structure? The new Sibe bitch was just coming into season when we had her spayed last week, I'm not sure if this would have any effect on her behaviour at all? But at the moment there is no way I will leave her unsupervised or un-muzzled around my own dogs. My OH would dearly like to keep the new Sibe bitch, because other than this one problem she is an absolute sweetheart and extremely well behaved. She's wonderful with people and has not shown any signs of agression towards us - she's very submissive towards us and gets quite upset/sooky when she gets told off. Any tips/advice/suggestions? I've never had to deal with a situation like this before and don't quite know where to start. Any input would be very much appreciated

Have you tried asking your vet if they can order it in?

Could be an upper respiratory infection, could be canine cough, could be something else. I'd pop down to the vet and have her looked at.

I can't speak for my mum, 'cos her boys are always together and she's never had any need to seperate them. But mine are fine when seperated. There have been plenty of occasions where I have taken one to work with me but not the other... and they are both fine. No destructive behaviour, no barking, no whining or crying.

I'm not trying to go against the advice that's been given so far, but I just wanted to say that I bought my two Cav boys at the same time and raised both pups together and have never had any dramas whatsoever My mum also bought two Cav puppies, raised them together, and they are very happy well adjusted dogs these days. However that is definately a bit different to buying a puppy of one breed and then several months later introducing a new, unrelated puppy.

I'm sure you will enjoy it See you there!

Shall do

We'll be getting dragged around by a 5-month-old red and white Husky

Yes we will be there Didn't make it last week due to the rain. Fingers crossed for better weather this week.

Ahh, hi! See you next week maybe

Yep, you can just rock up whenever you like - you don't need to pay upfront or anything. They have a table with a book on it and a little jar, you just write your name in the book and pay your $3 into the jar. I don't think they have a website, no. Not sure how we're going to go with the rain at the moment, but if the weather clears up I'll definately be there tonight. If you see two people being dragged around by a hyperactive red and white Sibe puppy - that'll be us, come up and say hi

Hi Katherine My OH and I have just started taking our 5-month-old Sibe bitch to the show training classes at Durack and they have been excellent :rolleyes: The classes are held at the CCCQ grounds on King Ave in Durack, every Thursday from 6.30pm to 7.30pm. Cost is $3 per dog. Hope that helps

We do now, thanks to NILIF Minook used to barge through the back door as soon as we opened it to let her in of an evening. We have taught her now that she must sit and wait for permission to enter the house. Even if I am standing there with the door wide open, she won't come in now until she is invited. Same with her food bowl - we put it down, BUT she's not allowed to touch one morsel of food until given permission. It has taken a lot of persistence and frustration, but when you finally succeed it is well worth all the effort Good luck with Sayuri!!

Used to wrestle with the dog and the hose in the backyard - never again :D These days I head down to our local Petwise store - they have a grooming salon inside with DIY hydrobaths (& commercial dog driers). Unlimited use of everything is only $5 per dog. It is sooo much easier and the dogs seem to enjoy it more aswell.

Lol, OH didn't flinch at all when I asked him to hold his dog while I removed the castration stitches.

Our clinic will not desex pups younger than 5 1/2 - 6 months of age, except in extenuating circumstances. Which isn't often.

Minook (our 5 month-old Sibe) is pretty switched on, but everything is done on her terms She knows sit, drop, stay, and is learning 'stand' (for the show ring). She also climbs into her crate for the night when we tell her "bed". As a youngster she was very easy to toilet-train and responded to the command "potty time". She was the smartest pup in her class at Puppy Preschool when it came to basic obedience commands. Having said all that though, her recall is non-existent :D and we will never trust her off-lead. I would say they are a very intelligent breed, but also very independent. Minook will do as she's told (well, most of the time) but does not seem desperate to please as some dogs do. In fact when responding to commands she seems to do so fairly begrudgingly She's very food orientated. No food, no tricks. We are using the "Nothing In Life Is Free" method and have found it to be pretty effective thus far. Particularly as she is a fairly headstrong dog who seems to think that she rules the roost... it has taught her to really respect us.

I'm so sorry to hear about Satu At least her final days were spent with a loving family. RIP Satu

Sentinel Spectrum is a once-a-month beef flavoured chew that covers heartworm, intestinal worms (including tapeworm) and fleas And although it seems pretty expensive, if you compare the costs of buying all those products individually, it actually works out cheaper per month. It also comes with a 100% guarantee from the manufacturer, Novartis.

I didn't say that Advantage stops fleas from biting. I said it can kill fleas on contact without them needing to bite the dog. There is a big difference. You are right though, Frontline Plus can also kill the fleas before they bite (got my wires mixed up there) but takes longer than Advantage/Advocate. Frontline Plus does not prevent fleas from biting a dog. And Advantage/Advocate are both registered for treatment of Flea Allergy Dermatitis. We've actually had a lot of clients switch from Frontline Plus to Advantage/Advocate as they were finding the Frontline to be less and less effective on their dogs, particularly those suffering from FAD. Rarely is it the other way round. I personally have used both products and will recommend Advantage everytime, despite the fact that I get Frontline Plus supplied to me for free. I won't use it on my dogs, as I don't find it to be anywhere near as effective.

I think the microchip tattoo is the letter 'M' in the dogs right ear (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

For Flea Allergy Dermatitis, I would actually use Advantage or Advocate over Frontline Plus. The two products work in different ways - with Frontline Plus, the fleas must actually bite the dog in order to die. With Advantage/Advocate, the fleas will die on contact - they do not need to bite your pet in order to be affected. As for intestinal worming and heartworm prevention, I would go with Interceptor Spectrum as it covers heartworm and all intestinal worms. I am not a big fan of the Proheart injection, personally. The other option is to use Drontal for intestinal worms, and Heartgard for heartworm - but I think you'll find that Interceptor works out to be the cheaper option. Or as laffi mentioned above you could use Advocate for fleas, heartworm and intestinal worms however Advocate does not cover tapeworm so you'd need an additional product such as Virbac Tapewormer for dogs. You would have to check prices and see which works out the most cost-effective: [Advantage + Interceptor Spectrum], or [Advocate + Virbac Tapewormer]. But that's just my opinion based on personal preference of the products available. How long have you been using Sentinel Spectrum for? Novartis actually has a guarantee on their product: Have you tried contacting them yet? They are really helpful - we had a client who was using Sentinel and had a persistent flea problem. Novartis worked with the case vet and the client and provided them with a long-term flea control plan tailored to the individual dog

Re: vets tattooing dogs during desexing surgery. It depends on the vet. Our clinic does tattoo all cats/dogs as a matter of routine, however when the animal is admitted for surgery this is mentioned to the client and gives them the opportunity to declince the tattoo if they do not wish to have one done. I've had one female cat and three male dogs desexed. None of them have tattoos. Just personal choice.