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pipsqueak

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Everything posted by pipsqueak

  1. I can relate to that - I have one dog who is a slow learner - took 3+ months to learn how to sit!!! I kid you not. I have HAD to learn patience to be able to train her. Although in her defence, she is part greyhound, so sitting isn't natural, or probably comfortable. But, boy, did I learn a lot about rewards and body cues and motivation during that time!
  2. some random ideas from a not-so-good trainer... do you have, or can you set up a "hallway" where the dogs cannot turn around, eg row of chairs. I know you said you didn't want to use objects, but this way you can start with a narrow "tunnel" and widen it when they get the idea. Is your heeling backwards on cue? If not, I'd put it on cue, and then ask for the behaviour whilst you stand still. Or, if you don't want to put it on cue, perhaps "fake" a step backwards, but remain still, and if the dog moves backwards, mark and reward. Same for when you walk into them. My gut feeling is to reward (initially) only movement made by the back feet - if you're getting movement with the front feet, they might not be understanding that they need to shift their weight? With Tahli and her two small steps, how are you rewarding? Are you rewarding in position, or does she come to you? I ask because I had a problem with distance with one of my dogs until I starting throwing the treat for her to catch - she seemed to understand that backing up wasn't reliant on me moving or being close to get a treat. Just a thought. I will say it took me a lot longer than two sessions (try a couple of weeks) to start getting a backing behaviour. And, with one dog, yes I initially lured the behaviour, but then moved to shaping/clicker as we started for distance. She really needed the luring behaviour to discover that she had back feet! Not sure if any of this helps!
  3. according to this the pine oil can be an irritant to dogs. I'd also be concerned about my dog swallowing a cone and causing an obstruction http://www.ehow.com/facts_5892015_pine-pin...oning-dogs.html
  4. pipsqueak

    Dogs Seized

    I belive that the Companion Animal Act applies Australia-wide - NOT just NSW - but I did say I wasn't a legal person. No only NSW. ok, sorry, I stand corrected
  5. pipsqueak

    Dogs Seized

    I belive that the Companion Animal Act applies Australia-wide - NOT just NSW - but I did say I wasn't a legal person.
  6. pipsqueak

    Dogs Seized

    I am NOT a legal person, but I will post a link to the Companion Animals Act 1998 which might help... http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/con...998174/s18.html "Section 18 Dog that has attacked or bitten may be secured or seized s.18 Dog that has attacked or bitten may be secured or seized (1) If a dog attacks or bites any person or animal (except vermin) otherwise than in the circumstances referred to in section 16 (2), an authorised officer may, at any time within 72 hours after the attack or bite: (a) secure the dog on property that the officer has reason to believe is occupied by the dog’s owner, or (b) seize the dog. (2) Any other person may seize the dog if the dog is on property owned or occupied by the person. (3) If the dog is on property that an authorised officer has reason to believe is occupied by the dog’s owner, the officer may seize the dog only if the officer is satisfied that: (a) the dog cannot be kept adequately secured on that property, or (b) the dog cannot be kept under the effective control of some competent person while it is on that property, or © the owner of the dog has repeatedly failed to keep the dog secured on that property or under the effective control of a competent person while it is on that property (regardless of whether the dog is secured or under effective control at the relevant time). (4) An authorised officer who, under this section, secures or seizes a dog on property that the officer has reason to believe is property occupied by the dog’s owner must, before leaving that property, prepare a notice setting out: (a) the reasons why the dog has been secured or seized, and (b) the method by which the dog has been secured, or the place to which it has been taken, as the case may be. (5) The notice must be left: (a) in a conspicuous place on the property, or (b) with a person (being a person apparently above the age of 16 years) who appears to be an occupier of the property. (6) This section applies whether or not any injury is caused to a person or animal by the dog’s attack or bite. "
  7. I'm in NSW and the kennel we use is in a known paralysis(sp) tick area. Boarding agreement states ALL dogs must be treated with a tick prevention prior to boarding. You can either provide it yourself, or kennel will provide for you (much more expensive). Also, if dogs board for more than 2 weeks, tick prevention must be reapplied.
  8. I don't believe it is stated in the rules. Click on the link and then scroll down the page to where it says "obedience" and click on that link http://www.ankc.org.au/Rules.aspx
  9. That's what I'm doing - I just wish that I had of known sooner. Dog who is fed j/d has a sensitive stomach, so we have to be very careful with changing food - thankfully we still have some "normal" Hills that we feed to the other dog, which should last us until we can make a switch to another brand.
  10. see thread in Health section http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=215720
  11. Not sure how many people here feed Hills Science j/d (lets not get into whether people should or should not fee dit). I've just been to two vets this afternoon trying to get j/d for our pooch. Was told by both vets that they are having trouble getting it from the supplier - second vet said that they might not get it until March and it might be because the supplier is having trouble getting it into the country - but she wasn't 100% sure. So, for us it is back to "normal" Hills Science with the addition of Joint Guard and fish oil - not as effective for her as j/d, but will have to do in the meantime. ETA - just spoke to Hills Science. All types of Hills dry food is affected - Hills Science and prescription diets. They are apparently waiting for supplies to arrive by boat and it is not expected until 2nd week in March ;) She did say that they notified all the people they supply, but apparently some outlets stocked up and some outlets didn't. So, if you feed Hills dry it might be an idea to grab an extra bag if you can.
  12. This is from the Companion Animals Act and refers to the fact that the dog must be under the control of a "competent person", which I always assumed to be a person over 16 yrs of age. However, I cannot see anywhere in the Act that defines exactly what a competent person is! From the Companion Animals Act 1998 : http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/con...998174/s13.html "Section 13 Responsibilities while dog in public place (1) A dog that is in a public place must be under the effective control of some competent person by means of an adequate chain, cord or leash that is attached to the dog and that is being held by (or secured to) the person. (2) If this section is contravened: (a) the owner of the dog, or (b) if the owner is not present at the time of the offence and another person who is of or above the age of 16 years is in charge of the dog at that time-that other person, is guilty of an offence. (3) Any person (including an authorised officer) can seize a dog that is in a public place in contravention of this section. If the owner of the dog is present, the dog cannot be seized except by an authorised officer and only then if the contravention continues after the owner has been told of the contravention. A reference in this subsection to the owner of the dog includes a reference to the person who is for the time being in charge of the dog. Note: Putting the dog on a leash prevents the dog being seized but it does not excuse the contravention and does not stop action being taken for the contravention. (4) A dog is not considered to be under the effective control of a person if the person has more than 4 dogs under his or her control. "
  13. Just doing the survey now and wondering if breed is a consideration in the "trainability" question?
  14. for basic training have a look at Ian Dunbar's website www.dogstardaily.com
  15. Perhaps have a look at the "Open Paw" program. It's designed to be used by volunteers in shelters to teach dogs basic skills, but also promote calm behaviour. http://www.openpaw.org/about/shelters.html ETA - program originated in the UK ( I think ) by Kellie/Kerrie Gorman (I can never remember her name!)
  16. She gives me sad eyes if do that, but thats all. Given the chance though, she follows me from room to room. She is not a velcro dog ie. she doesn't have to sit right beside me, but she does like to have me in her sights. I'm soooo sorry, I didn't know about your puppy :D I only asked as it might be something useful to mention to the guide dog trainer, as it might have implications for her later training, if she doesn't "transfer" to someone else.
  17. Just curious if this is your guide dog puppy or your Aussie Shepherd?
  18. Not sure what you want to use it for, but how about ground pepper?
  19. Dogs must be on their "bed" (mats) whilst we're eating, preferably lying down, but this is a work in progress. Older dog just ignores meal times (since she's never been given food from our plates - more recently adopted dog is still learning, but doing well for a lab x
  20. is it possible that she has reacted to the Rimadyl? I believe it can cause side effects in some dogs.
  21. This is what sprung to mind when I read the question for the poll. How is the judge to know if you used one word or two? The rules state the command must be one word only (and one syllable I believe?) ditto. I don't think the rules should be changed, however, I also believe that people should be allowed to use commands in another language IF they provide the judge with a written list of commands they intend on using. Otherwise it could possibly become "unfair" to people who use English when someone uses a 2 word command in another language and it is not known.
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