Mrs Rusty Bucket

Hmm. I'm hoping that if anyone is profoundly offended or freaked out by something I or my dog is doing that they would politely say "what you're doing makes me feel deeply uncomfortable, would it be alright if you do <insert acceptable behaviour here> instead?" And that gives me the opportunity to get my dog off the chair, seek a chair wipe (I do carry sanitizer and Kleenex in the bag) and fix it, rather than be scowled at or yelled at in the vet's waiting room. However I have been guilty of scowling at or yelling at people who don't clean up after their dogs or children at the park. I usually start off helpful eg "Do you need a bag for that?" and offer them one.

How do you know it's a test of genetics if you train the dog to do the test? I'm pretty sure my dog would bark at the white person but not bite them or run away. She's done that to men in hoodies... cos the hoodies are weird. As soon as the hoodie is off - she's all wiggly embarrassed friendly. I'm sure she would not go play tug with anyone else. And she would not willingly walk on lead away from me with someone else. Even a friend, she gets just so far, decides I'm not coming too and starts to argue - politely is sitting down and refusing to budge. Less polite is dragging the person back to me. However if she was completely untrained... she'd go on lead with anyone but eat the lead the whole way. And she'd probably bite the strange white wrap people's ankles.

This isn't true. Before there were shelters - unwanted puppies were routinely drowned. Perry's mum - I'm not sure I'm ready for a new puppy yet. I haven't got the mechanics and timing for training the dog I've got. When she reliably goes around the excellent course without stopping to say hi to the judge, and recalls more reliably then I will get a puppy. Tho one way of dealing with my dog not working - would be to train the puppy instead... But there is an Agility SA facebook page you could post a message there to see if anyone is interested. If the post is not ok - it will get removed.

I got a cattle dog mix 10 week old puppy from the AWL (pound). I would go to the pound or rescue for the next puppy except for one thing - which I'm still not sure about the data on - the early desex. Ie desex at 8 weeks. So far so good, but if I want to do dog sport and agility maybe better to get a puppy from the breeder and desex later like 18 months old. With agility dog sport - I'm not sure whether it's best to get a dog off a farm with good working history or from a breeder with dog lines that have had good success in my chosen sport. Not an easy find unless I want a border collie. But surplus working dog pups are so easy to get... As for oversupply - with an increase in compulsory microchipping and maybe if they start putting the breeder name on the microchip data and keeping the owner history... it might become more obvious who dumps dogs and why.

I once read that burglars do not like Aussie Terriers. The dogs will not shut up about strangers, and they will bite, and it does hurt. But they're probably too small to inflict a fatal bite on an adult. And the burglar will be too embarrassed to fess up what bit him. But serious burglars - bait the dogs - especially the big scary ones. Cattle dogs are great guard dogs. But not all of them are great family dogs. Depends on how well you train the dog and the children. Cattle dogs are also excellent door to door sales people repellants. There's a limit to how long a man will try to get your electricity account, while there is a dog lunging and barking her head off him so I can't hear what he is saying. I wonder why I allow her to do that ;)

That pile of rocks you find marking the top of a hill - is a Cairn - care n I thought the QLD town was "cans" but but I tend to pronounce it the same way as I say the dog breed name. I'm from SA. We've got our own set of regional pronounciation challenges. My fave tho is the name of the cricket oval in Canberra (or just Canberra), "Manuka" - Mah! nee kar. Which is not the same as the way Kiwis say the name of their honey, Man noo! ka . Spelt same, said different.

Ok we're way off topic but what the hell. I just spent Christmas with my siblings' children, spouses and etc. And I was routinely amazed at how different the children's behaviour was and the expectations - compared to how I was brought up. For instance - when there were pre dinner munchies - I - as a child - was expected to hand the food around before helping myself. I did eventually - count the chocolates first and eat one if there were not quite enough to go around :) the price of being snack slave. As an adult - I'm still expected to hand the munchies around. WTF? The children all hoe in like starving pigs at the slops trough, but I'm expected to hand around the cheese and bikkies. Perhaps because my mum thinks it's ok to ask me but not my siblings or their children. Sigh. She also told me I needed to be nice to these children (ages 5 through 11) because I might need them to take care of me when I'm too old to take care of myself. I know who is going to be taking care of my mum when she can't do it for herself - it's going to be me. And I suspect no matter how I deal with my siblings' children - they're not going to be taking care of me when I'm old. They probably won't even be taking care of their own parents. You can't make children want to do that. I'm banking on an excess of beds and care on the back end of the baby boomers as they no longer need care. That or die suddenly before I need care. But children do depend on adults and family to take care of them and the way they treat adults should reflect that. Unfortunately - children being children - their brains aren't very good at figuring out the consequences of their actions. That's why they don't get to vote or drive a car too young. So they've got no idea the pain or insult they cause by forcing some adults to stand. It is up to their parents to teach them but often the parents are too distracted or busy to do that, and they have to pick their battles. One interesting thing that happened at my brother's place - was the dog crap. There was several stray turds - not too bad compared to the usual mine field but not good either. So I'm getting dog bags out the car to pick stuff up - and my brother is yelling at me not to do it because his children are supposed to. Hmm. But his kids are not doing it... Eventually there was a bit of a half hearted effort but I think I did embarrass them into some action. There were fewer turds a couple of days later when we had to go up there, but also the clean up tools were easier to find. Guess what my nephew is getting for his birthday? dog poo pick up tools and composting system. Sigh. As for the chair being for people - erm... well she gets to sit on the couch. and my deck chairs when we're at agility competitions. My stuff, my rules. I don't let her sit on my mum's or brother's or anyone else's couches without permission. The vet chairs - it's ambiguous. I've never been asked to get her off, and they've always said ok when I've asked. But she's a clean looking, short coat dog, no slobber, who is nice to vets (but not their cats).

Am I missing something? they are obviously catfish...... Well not all aquariums have water. Tho the word "aqua" suggests they might. The clinic sometimes has kittens available for adoption and during the day - they're put in this clear sided display box that's up on a cabinet out of most dog nose reach but still in range of my counter surfing dog's ability to scare the crap out of. So we keep a very short lead when there are kittens on display. My dog has counter surfed at one clinic. I have no idea how she reached her nose over the top but the nurses thought it was adorable. I wasn't so sure. Stood on the lead after that effort so I could pay without help from the evil hound. That particular clinic can get a bit exciting when new customers come in because the space for paying in is right next to the door, next to the busy road... and if another dog wants to say hello while you're paying it's hard to control that.

I don't allow my dog on a seat near where food is being served. Unless that's the only way I can keep her safe from freely roaming small children. And then she's on the same seat as me, behind me, and we're close to a wall. I feel a bit the same way about small children, seats and adults. If it helps the child's care taker take care of the child - they can have my seat. I've not been in a vet waiting room so crowded that there were not enough seats for everybody. I probably wouldn't feel safe there. Mostly there's not more than one other critter there and we're usually by ourselves. Sometimes I ask if it's ok to have the dog on the seat - and both vet places I go to are fine with it.

Yeah I found when doing the research that many people including police - do not know the rules in SA on this. Even the people who answer the phone at the RSPCA seem uncertain. But it is in the current law as previously posted These are the 2012 Animal Welfare Regulations http://www.legislation.sa.gov.au/lz/c/r/animal%20welfare%20regulations%202012/current/2012.187.un.pdf Page 6 So mostly law enforcement turn a blind eye - especially for invisible fences where the shock is tiny, and easily avoided by the dog, and helps save a dog's life. I would not be drawing attention to use of the device in South Australia if I was the OP. Just in case.

Wow. I am amazed at the range of really strong opinions on this. I had no idea. I figured the seats at the vet were for whatever anyone wanted to put on them, all creatures great and small, and their handbags too. It's the Vet's - it's probably cleaner than your average café toilet. Humans generally don't get diseases from animals and when they do - you can expect space suits to come out (eg Hendra). If my dog is not harassing you or your pet or the clinic cats (our vet keeps them in an aquarium up high), then I don't see what the problem is. And there has been plenty of good research that debunks the comfort encourages bad behaviour from dogs (and children), there are some studies that suggest that comfort reduces anxiety (isn't that obvious) and reduced stress and anxiety improves the chance of treatments being successful (and the chance that the dog will be calmer next time they visit the vet). Some dogs have been known to fake it... My dog routinely fakes play invites to get off lead - and then she go-sniffs and ignores the dog she was previously inviting to play - much disappointment all round. It's not that hard to tell when the dog just wants to be picked up and cuddled and when it's genuinely freaked out. For starters - if it's freaked out - it won't accept food. If it's faking - it usually will accept food or some other distraction.

My dog likes to sit on the seat next to me and lean. I think she finds it comforting - she is a little freaked out by the vets (or I am - hard to tell). My vets - one has a vinyl covered bench all around the room, and the other has plastic chairs. I wouldn't let her sit on a cloth covered chair. It has been quite helpful at several vet visits. One time the height off the floor protected her from a smaller dog that escaped the owner. It couldn't quite reach or wasn't quite sure about jumping to attack - from the floor. My dog ignored it and the dog was recaptured without problem. Another time - my dog got on the chair in the exam room. We had been waiting quite a while. So the vet when he finally came in, did the exam with the dog on the chair.

I think there is a simpler answer - allow dogs to fly on some flights ie be more willing to accommodate - as they do in Europe. I've seen children make more mess, destruction and misery than a well behaved dog and yet they're allowed to fly and stay in most hotels and resorts. And humans are a bigger health hazard to other humans than a clean dog is. There are severe penalties for pretending to be a fake police officer, or doctor... They do need something similar for fake service dogs. But then the problem is how do you know. So I think the tests would have to be more about how well behaved the dog is in situations other dogs are not normally allowed - eg restaurants, screaming children, food at nose height, aggressive acting dogs (muzzled and safely restrained), running cats etc. A service dog that is fit to travel on a plane needs to be able to ignore all the normally irresistible doggy temptations...

Zap collars not allowed for invisible fences or anything else in SA. but I've never heard of anyone being prosecuted and I do know a few people who have successfully used them in SA to train their dogs to stay on property - to the point the dogs no longer wear the collars. So I guess people keep saying it's illegal because it is.

My dog isn't scared of storms. She feels much the same way about them as she does about lawnmowers - angry and scolding as best I can tell. Tell that Hughie off for making so much NOISE.

trinabean All you need to do now is make sure someone nice moves in. Maybe put an ad up for new tenants at the local book shop or garden supplies (or other shops kess popular with loud bogans with rude dogs).

German short haired pointers and Brindle Staffy crosses?

Some of the pet supplies shops around Adelaide have dog washing facilities (hydrobath - high pressure hoses? and big stainless steel stinks and dryers?)) and some of the car wash places too. Pet stock and olivers come to mind. I think it costs around $20 - $25 depending which one you go to and whether you've got a discount voucher. Mostly the only washing Frosty gets is at the beach - she swims and rolls in stinky coat conditioners, I hose her off with one of those $7 rubber hook hose on the bath tap shower thingies - I got from the supermarket, if it's really bad I apply some Baby shampoo and conditioner. And then I dry her off with a shammy (Chamois) leather - got from the auto supplies section of big w or wherever. Bit of a brush with a rubber curry comb and we're done. Sometimes I get the shampoo out at home, and I fill about four buckets with warm water and have a scoop (empty icecream tub)... scoop her wet, shampoo her, rinse off with scoop, dry as much as possible with shammy and towels and do not let her off the lead until she's quite dry or she finds the nearest dirt patch in the garden (or makes one) - and rolls in it. That's her idea of a good finish.

with the tug, my dog tugs a bit but if she's a bit unsure and keeps letting go - it's important for us - that I don't tug first. Ie no pulling the toy out of her mouth. Just wait until she gets hold properly and then lots of patting with the spare hand and praise and encouragement but no tugging from me. Otherwise she confuses that with "give". Her basic response to another dog wanting her toy is usually to just give it up immediately. She's getting more possessive of some things but mostly she just drops it and backs off, and that's how she treats tug sometimes. if I want it - I can have it - not exactly what I intended.

My dog is a tad random on the fetch - so I've had to break it down into tiny steps and work on it in front of really really high value hard for dog to control self in front of it she wants it so BAADDDLY. Helps she's been a bit of a diet too... So while I'm chilllin in front of TV - or in front of dinner routine Put something out that you want her to fetch - fairly close - between your knees even. ... depending what you get to start with - each bit repeat a few times, then end the session with dinner or chase the treat or whatever fun mindless game your dog likes. For any given session it doesn't matter if you end on a failure. If you do get a major break through - have a party with your dog right then - really whoop it up and then END THE SESSION.... don't try to get it again. Cos your dog (my dog) will think they didn't quite get it right and try something different (ARGH). yes and treat for looking yes and treat for stepping towards or sniffing (this might have to be broken down) yes and treat for poking with nose or mouthing yes and treat for picking up and holding (beware of trying to get the hold and dog spitting to get the treat - you may have to skip the "yes" at this point or change to "good dog" and just say "give" or whatever your spit word is and then treat. once your dog is reasonably good at picking the whatever (toy) up, start changing stuff like where the toy is, ie from between your knees to on the floor, change the toy, change how far on the floor, change from the kitchen to the lounge or back, try out the back... try at the park. Try sitting down, standing up, with kids running by, with dogs running by, with balloons tethered around the yard and blowing in the wind (pop, oops). And as you build each component - be really really careful not to cave in if the dog gets frustrated and starts doing stressy stuff like barking or scratching or wandering off to pee, or offering up lots of other stuff. You can end the session (a bit tough if it's dinner, but my dog is way more persistant for dinner - if she does it crap now - she has to do it again - criteria is pick the thing up, put it in my hand - no tossing it on the ground (or anywhere else). Next criteria will be no fetching until prompted (cue'd) but we not quite there yet. (I keep forgetting that criteria, I'm so thrilled she fetches at all)

I've been taking Frosty evil hound to a groomer to get her claws trimmed and the groomer does a great job. But I'd be confident with someone who lets the owners see what they're doing.

Lots of people still enjoy life despite a lot of pain. Some people want to die because of their pain (emotional or physical or both) I think your dog still enjoys life - still has appetite and enthusiasm. So it comes down to ongoing quality of life and enthusiasm and how deep your pockets are. There are such things as dog wheel chairs, and dog leg braces. Some of these things are insanely expensive. Some you could maybe persuade a human prosthesis maker or ortho pod or brace maker to have a go at, for not much - just to see what is possible. http://www.handicappedpets.com/ or http://www.orthopets.com/galleries.html Today I felt guilty / bad because an old scruffy man at the traffic lights asked me for a cigarette - and I don't smoke and had nothing to give him - not even change - cos it is all locked in the boot where I can't get at it without turning my car off. Why did I feel bad? I would have felt bad if I gave him a cigarette too. No win there. So the point of that story is - how you feel about seeing your dog in pain may not relate to how your dog feels. At least you're thinking about it. Another short vent... lady at the beach this morning with an old dog whose back end was not working at all well - called her dog lazy because it would not walk. To me - it looked in pain, and too hot - it was a hot day and the dog was panting a lot. She said it didn't want to go home. I'm thinking it's at the end of a walk that is slightly too long. And she offered her dog reacting to my dog - standing up and trying to drive my dog off - as a sign of her dog being fine, despite the back hips, ankles and toes not working properly. Personally I would still take a dog like that for walk but I'd get it all wet or kitted out in a cool coat or something. And I wouldn't expect it to walk so far on a hot day.

AWL used to have a program where they would desex the mum in exchange for the puppies. That would solve his problems if he's not trying to make a quick dollar from selling the poor things. I'm surprised the RSPCA couldn't confiscate them.

Lots of people at my dog club admire my dog for her nice calm sits next to me - while their dogs are boucing around like yoyos on bungee cords... Which is what my dog was like when I started... five years on, we have calm mostly. Until she sees her favourite friends and then I have some work to do. You will get what you want with time, no need to be embarrassed. Sometimes it's good to ignore the naughty behaviour within limits - ie barking is its own fun so if you ignore it, it may still get worse. Things I'd try - starting at home, inside where it's easy, going outside where there are more distractions, and then going where there are other dogs but you can stay far enough away your dog can still pay attention (under the excitement threshold). 30 mins before dog class is good for this. I'd do the attention task the others have suggested. I'd also pair saying your dog's name with a treat and "yes" and "good dog" with a treat. Count to three, and allow your dog's attention to wander (if it wants) between repeats of each / any task. Do 3 to 5 repeats each time and then play with your dog and work on something else. I'd also do lots of collar grab - you grab your dog's collar and give the dog a treat. Start off gently and build up to slightly rougher grabs (imagine an emergency) and build your dog's comfort and warm fuzzies in connection with this treatment. And - my dog gets very loud at dinner time and quite likes a chat... I taught her to bark on command ie she barks - I say "yes" and I treat, repeat (count to three between) five times - then start adding a signal like talking hand or "speak" and repeat some more. Start rewarding the pre bark, ie dog starts to croak and I say "yes" and hand over the threat. So pretty soon I ask her to bark and the yelling becomes a croak because she knows that's all she has to do for the treat. And then you can work on "quiet". Timing of your yes and treat for this has to be good, and once your dog works out the game - only reward barking when you've asked him to. If the barking gets out of control - pack the treats up and ignore your dog for a bit (don't talk to him, don't look at him, turn your back on him and even go into another room and shut the door between you (if you trust him not to do something destructive). You only need to do this until the behaviour you don't want - stops.

I'm going to miss you - unless we pass on the highway - I'm going for the second week because there were more sessions and ones that are different to what she did last time she was here. I'd like to do all of them but can't justify driving my cousins nuts for 10 days or the extra time away. I've got some frontline plus (supposed to work against paralysis tics) - vet said use it as well as the revolution... and maybe the proban that I had from the first trip ... so many chemicals - tho hopefully the years off her life will be not as bad as if she got a tick. I've also invested in a cool coat for her, and one for me. This is the soft bladed fan I was talking about. http://www.snowys.com.au/Tents-Shelters/Tent-Accessories/CPX%E2%84%A2-6-Tent-Fan-w-LED-Light.aspx?c=1&sc=13&id=3188