Elise+Hudson

Hey guys, I was wondering what everyone's favourite grooming tool was, brushes in particular? I have an idea which I am working on, but was wondering what brushes you found most useful? And which brands you think are the best? Feel free to post multiple ones that you like. Hopefully I will be able to let you all know what I am working on soon. :D

Parvo can last in the ground for up to 7-10 years, just something the keep in mind. You don't have to see another dog, or even go to highly populated dog areas to catch parvo. I'm not saying to lock your dog up inside, I agree socialization is important, but you can do it in a safe environment, not out walking etc.

Erny I think that is fair if you have a low prevalence of parvo - we had a poor guy here who just let his pup into the yard 2 weeks after the 1st vaccination and came down with parvo. Never took the pup anywhere.

This will vary for different vets, but for our clinic the price varies tremendously depending on how bad the dental disease is - we scale it from a 1 (small amount tartar/gingivitis) to 4 (severe dental disease). For a grade 1 dental you would be looking at around $165, grade 4 dental with extractions in an older dog requiring aged care anaesthetic has cost upwards of $500-600, depending on the number of teeth which require removal. Again, all vets are different.. we discount our grade 1 dentals to less than the cost of the anesthetic alone to try and promote preventative dental care.

Me :p Seriously though, the clinic I work for Don Crosby Veterinary Surgeons has a great team of vets. I can give you the names of some of my clients who also show if that might help?

It depends on the type of vaccine used, some vaccines are registered for finish at 10 weeks, others need to be later than this. If your in a high parvo area your vet might be suggesting a 3rd vaccine as a precaution - we have been seeing pups still come down with parvo after their 2nd vaccination, although we are in a very high parvo area.

espinay - That is what I have always been taught as well, and we are updated regularly with any new information regarding vaccination protocols. We will not vaccinate a pup with anything but a parvac before 5 weeks. And a lot of effort goes into educating people if we need to use the parvac, we only do that with a high risk of pups contracting parvo virus.

Possibly, but that should be something that would need to be discussed with the breeder. A puppy given a single shot of parvac (what we use for temporary immunity against parvo) only will have immunity for a week, and if the risk is with the breeder, it has already been exposed to the virus. I feel it would be unethical for the breeder not to advise the new owners of the potential risk of parvo in the puppies. I may not be explaining myself well, it is late and I am tired. Although I am more than happy to discuss vaccination protocols or try and answer questions at any time. I spend a good part of every day talking/thinking about it. :)

Perhaps the breeder has parvo at the property, and the vet, who is not up to speed with the vaccine regime, wants to vac early in the hope of avoiding the pup catching parvo. I know someone who bought a bc pup, rented a house, and when they arrived the neighbour told them pups had recently died of parvo at the house. Her vet vac every 2 weeks. I think some vets should read up on vacs!! And why would she want to buy a dog from a breeder who doesn't know her stuff? She obviously doesn't - to vaccinate so young, when the vac and maternal immunity will clash. She should at least ask the breeder why the pup is being vac so early, and see what she says. I think most vets understand vaccination quite well, we do spend the majority of our time dealing with vaccinations. Pups in danger of parvo do get vaccinated quite regularly, we vacc them weekly but it is a different vaccine, not the one we usually use for pups. No vet following vaccination protocol will vacc with a normal puppy vaccine at 3 weeks.

Yes, a young pup shouldn't be going anywhere - but very very few if any pups will actually have a sufficient immune responce following first vaccination at 6-8 weeks to protect them against parvo. Any immunity they have at this age is from maternal antibodies. Very few pups will have low enough maternal antibodies to respond to vaccination this early, and that is why we vaccinate them. But for the majority of pups coming from vaccinated mothers, it is essentially useless. Pups should be kept isolated essentially until at least 10 days following their second vaccination (given they are using a vaccine which is registered to finish at this age) to try and protect them from catching parvo. I work in a high parvo area, we see cases in pups with a 6-8 week vaccination almost on a weekly basis.

I will give them a call tomorrow :) I am coming back from Sunshine coast a week later, so won't be leaving a crate stranded anywhere. :D

I know, I definitely said crate hire only, and that is what is stated on the quote.. seems a lot though when I can buy a crate for not much more.

See my estimate from jetpets for crate hire was $215! So I thought I was better off buying a crate!

Hey guys, I am flying Hudson from Sydney to the Sunshine Coast in 2 weeks and need to find a crate for the plane, we usually use a collapsible wire crate. I have seen some relatively inexpensive ones online but not sure of the size I would need? He is a smaller boy and weighs 20kg. I got a quote to borrow one which was more than the cost of the flights, so need to either borrow or buy one!

So you are talking about eventually calling him off the piece of cheese for a recall? I had him on the long line on the footy fields and he was doing some lovely recalls, went down the hill to the dog park and it all went out the window with the smells. So we have a huge amount of work to do.

Went to the park today and did some recalls on a 18m long line. When he is 'on' and paying attention he is gorgeous, and does anything I ask. Did some great sit, wait, recalls with enthusiasm, managed to call him away from looking around with no problems. Had to use the line when he was sniffing about.. but the main problem is once he realises I have food he is on a line and we are training, he doesn't go wandering off! Still, will keep practising this every day and I think he will improve!

Thanks guys :) I think I will try a few of these things. He was great as a pup and I think I have not worked as hard on it because of that, and how I guess he has learnt it's much better to wander/run off than come back to me. He just gave me a decent fright today the silly bugger!

I have a fully fenced dog park but really struggle with the smells there and getting his attention. Will get another long line, have a 5m one but he always seems to know he is still attached. I just hope I can get him out of this, it's so unusual for him

I have a fully fenced dog park but really struggle with the smells there and getting his attention. Will get another long line, have a 5m one but he always seems to know he is still attached. I just hope I can get him out of this, it's so unusual for him

Sorry, stupid phone double posted - can delete

Hey guys, I am currently still at a show so appoligise for any typos - on the iPhone. I have always had issues with recalls with my Aussie shepherd, wants to please in every other way. But if he is off lead he is gone, sniffing and investigating and compeltely ignores me as if he is deaf. Today was the last straw, he gave me a bit of a scare by darting back as I took his lead off to go into the crate and he was off, not running but trotting off sniffing and I only caught him because he stopped to sniff, we are next o a busy road and he could have easily been run over, so I am asking for help. How can I try and teach my 15 month old to come when he is called? He was fine as a pup, just started when he realized he was an entire male! Aside from the obvious problems, I would love to start in obedience and agility which is a problem if he wanders off! Thanks so much

Hey guys, I am currently still at a show so appoligise for any typos - on the iPhone. I have always had issues with recalls with my Aussie shepherd, wants to please in every other way. But if he is off lead he is gone, sniffing and investigating and compeltely ignores me as if he is deaf. Today was the last straw, he gave me a bit of a scare by darting back as I took his lead off to go into the crate and he was off, not running but trotting off sniffing and I only caught him because he stopped to sniff, we are next o a busy road and he could have easily been run over, so I am asking for help. How can I try and teach my 15 month old to come when he is called? He was fine as a pup, just started when he realized he was an entire male! Aside from the obvious problems, I would love to start in obedience and agility which is a problem if he wanders off! Thanks so much

Thanks for the tips guys! Ended up showing a few extra dogs and enjoying relaxing in the sun, so only managed to take a few quick snaps during general specials! Here are the ones I got of freinds: And my favourites

Hey guys, Some of you may have seen that I have recently purchased the Canon 60D and love love love the camera! I am hoping to take it along with me to a couple of dog shows in the next few months and start learning how to get nice show photos. I have no idea where to even start though, down to is there a best spot to sit yourself around the ring? Certain camera settings which can be useful. I just love taking photos of anything, and can't wait to try this camera out at the shows!