Salukifan

I wouldn't be jumping to any conclusions until I knew the breed and the association involved. The ANKC is not the be all and end all of purebred dog registries in this country. For ANKC recognised breeds, you'd have to wonder about why someone chose to go to another association but there are other breeds and associations that are entirely legitimate. The most notable ones are those for working dogs like the WKC and the ISDS. So if the OP wants to name the breed, that would help.

Yes, thanks kelpiecuddles. I have looked into the Goldens but feel a bit shaky about getting another Golden. I went to look at some pups last weekend and ended up crying. Not sure if I am strong enough Or maybe you're just not ready. Don't rush into this. Be sure that the dog you get is not a 'replacement' but one you want for itself. I also second the idea of getting a male, especially if you want to introduce an adult dog into your home.

Why don't you train him yourself? There are plenty of good obedience instructors/school about.

Susanne Clothier said it best: "The issue is not whether your dog gets on the couch [or bed] but whether it will get off it if you ask it to." Dr Harry should stick to what he does best. Sadly, I'm not sure what that is but it sure as hell isn't dog training or behavioural consults.

I think that was a polite way of saying they were shot :) Correct. Aggressive dogs didn't tend to last long.

My answer to this question is "no". Either they don't think at enough/at all OR they think their dogs are little people and that creates its own issues. In the olden days of dogs roaming at will etc, people bought a pup because Misty down the street had a litter or they bought from registered breeders. Now we have people pumping out pups of questionable genetic combinations and where for some breeder's the temperament of mother and father doesn't matter a damn. In the olden days dogs that displayed aggression died of lead poisoning and never got the chance to breed. Now some owners have a lot more invested in their dogs and will try all options before PTS. We also have more powerful kinds of dogs bred and sold to people who have no knowledge or, or interest in raising those dogs appropriately. Many people don't seem to have much understanding of dog behaviour. That's not an over thinking issue.

I think some very good points have been made in this thread: 1. Didi's behaviour is not your fault Terri S. You've clearly put a lot of work into socialising her but sometimes dogs display behaviours that are undesireable. 2. You recognise this and are prepared to do something about it. 3. Aggression towards people in a pet dog is not acceptable. It doesn't matter in the wider scheme of things why she behaves this way. A frightened dog bites just as hard as a territorially aggressive one. No amount of analysing the "why" of her behaviour will change that. Excuses are not helpful for her or for you. 4. Experienced professional help is important for Didi AND for you. You will feel more confident in understanding situations where Didi is likely to react and will be equipped with better tools to manage her behaviour. It's a bit worrying that other pups seem to be having issues. That suggests a genetic component to the behaviour. However, that is still in the "why" basket and its the "how to deal with this" basket that now needs filling.

Not to me. You've had a dog display aggression to people. If pushed or cornered, you have to wonder how far she'll go. I think you need to start being far more careful and assertive with people who want to interact with her. I also would invest in a muzzle for her next trip to the vets. If she was mine, I'd be concerned enough to seek some qualified professional advice about this. She's a big dog. If she escalates to biting, she'll do a lot of damage. You will now also be on edge and she'll read it. I'd suggest you call in some help so you know what you're dealing with. How much obedience training has she had?

If his bedding is on the floor I suggest you raise it. He'll be in the draft zone. The laundry tiles will also absorb any heat from the bedding. A low tramp bed with some vet bed and a polar fleece blanket he can burrow into would be my suggestion.

Seems to me Country Girl that you are trying to buy responsibly. Good for you. Perhaps if you tell us what breed you are looking for, someone can steer you towards a decent breeder. As for the other breeder? Forget them. No point investing time into talking about people like that.

So very sorry to read this. Taken far too young

If your intention is to immobilise this dog so that he cannot move to nip you, you stand the chance of him really having a go. A dog that cannot move to express discomfort may feel the need to fight. This does not sound like an ideal candidate for an amateur owner to groom. You stand a real risk of nicking him with clippers and a heavy coat needs an expert hands. Take him to a professional, let them use a muzzle and get him shaved down to something you can brush. Once he tolerates brushing without issue, then you might think about grooming him. A decent grooming table and clippers will set you back upwards of $500. That's quite a few trips to the groomer.

If you were looking at Plush Puppy, I'd go the conditioning shampoo. Or go to the horse shop and go for something like Champion tails - get a shampoo and a conditioner. If you are shampooing without conditioning afterwards (or adding an oil rinse) this will be significant factor in the coat drying. No amount of fish oil in a diet will compensate for you stripping the coat of oil twice a week. Chris Christensen make an excellent shampoo for daily use and it is great. However it is not cheap.

Oil in a coat attracts dirt. Most coats with oil in them are wrapped. You could add a squirt of an oil like baby oil or argan oil (or Plush Puppy Seabreeze Oil) to a warm bucket of water and use it as a final rinse, but it's probably more to do with the shampoo you're using. What are you using and do you condition the coat afterwards? You are not going to find a decent shampoo for twice weekly use that's at a dog's PH in the supermarket or the health food store. You'd have more luck in a rural supplies place looking for horse shampoo. Lots of folk wash their dogs in that. Don't you work in a pet shop?

Yep, talk to the pup's breeder. I would rate RC ahead of the other two.

<granted I found the document unlcear> wrt reigstering and Dogs Vic doing or not doing, Dogs Vic can simply refuse to register or not follow what Dogs NSW have done wrt registering. "We're Dogs Victoria not Dogs NSW, what Dogs NSW register is a matter for Dogs NSW, not Dogs Victoria" There is only ONE register Lilli - the ANKC Register. All states can process entries but the register is a National one. The rules for registration are also National. Dogs VIC doesn't get to opt out of National rules. If a drop down box is what is wanted, it will be Dogs NSW, as the Register admin, that adds it.

It is correct, as I understand it, the VCA is disregarding it, so breeders want to petition them to abide by the decision made back in 2010 by the ANKC Really? ANKC decisions are binding on all CC's. Adherence isn't optional. I'd be bringing to the attention of the ANKC Breed Standards Committee. Given that the ANKC pedigree register is now administrated by Dogs NSW, I can't see what Dogs Vic do or don't do affecting the colours of pups as they are registered. Non standard colours might make the Limit register but they can't be upgraded.

The diet you are feeding has no real calcium in it. He needs a diet balanced in calcium and phosphorus to grow strong bones. Kibble will not "scratch" a dog's stomach because it is not solid after digestion. If you don't want to feed kibble, you could try chicken necks or wings. The biting of his leg may be a neurological issue, and not diet related. I suggest you talk these issues through with your pup's vet. Has he been wormed recently? Toileting 4 times in 10 hours doesn't sound unusual for a 10 week old pup.

My crumbly old dog would stand and bark when he wanted something. He wasn't suffering from dementia. Old dogs get demanding and they get frustrated or stressed when they can't get what they want. They also bark more it seems when they are deaf. Enjoy them while they last, even with their foibles because sadly, they don't last forever.

The petition says its to be tabled at the 2010 ANKC Conference. That can't be correct can it?

People are being realistic. Unless you want the Lab to be fitted with a shock collar and fried every time he goes near a sock, then removing access is the go. If you don't want a dog to have things, don't leave them where the dog can get them. Dead easy and beats any kind of strong aversion training which is about all you'd have to try. This is life threatening behaviour for the dog. Telling a young man to close his bedroom door and not to leave socks lying around is hardly onerous is it? I sure as hell don't leave food or shoes lying around here and I don't blame the dogs for being.. well dogs!

This. It's not the dog that needs training! This makes me think of the Big Bang Theory episode where Sheldon trains Penny using operant conditioning... I think I have a plan! Meh - go for full negative reinforcment.

This. It's not the dog that needs training!

They do like a bark though!

Why not? No reason why a well bred pet won't look like that.