WreckitWhippet

http://s420.photobucket.com/albums/pp286/W...ppies/?start=40 feel free to have a look in there. There's puppies of all ages , the white pied litter is about 6 or 7 weeks ( can't quite remember ) and some of the others have ages on there. They are not all my pups and are not my litters but it should give you an idea about what a bright healthy puppy should look like.

Here's a five week old puppy for comparison. Plump, bright eyed and keen.

This rings alarms bells for me but it could be genuine. Does the breeder have an ANKC prefix ? and will your puppy be registered ? if not then walk away now and go in search of an ethical registered breeder. No breeder should be sending a puppy home with an illness and the pup should be fully recovered before being transferred into your care. I would be asking for a vet cert, stating that the puppy has recovered from whatever the illness was and I would also be wanting a written guarantee from the breeder. ETA: just read they are registered.

Congratulations :rolleyes:

This is purely my own thoughts on an adult rescue. Vaccinate when they come into care and then advise the adopter that they can either continue to vaccinate in the traditional way each year or go with three yearly. When I rehome any older dogs, I explain to the person who is taking them, how they have been vaccinated whilst in my care and why I have done it that way. I will if the new owner wants it, vaccinate any dog whose vaccination would not be considered current under the old protocol.

If it does happen to go poof, I've got a copy saved for later What a cop out, if they know the function of marternal antibodies, why in the hell are they not adopting a protocol that suggests vaccinating once at the 16 weeks or twice, with the first being 8 weeks plus and the second one month later

http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=173647 Brand new size 12 pant suit for sale

There are far more conservative treatments that you could try first. The all natural raw diet being one of them, along with the aloe juice Or you could try Advocate, it's about $60 for three months of treatment You could try washing in Malaseb ( $17 ) then rinsing in Demodex rinse ( $26) I would start with the natural options for localised demodex and give the animal a chance to improve it's immune system and to recover on it's own and move on through the options if there is no improvement. Demodex in Staffords tends to occur during stressfull times in their lives, which includes after vaccination, during teething and again around the 7-10 months as they begin to mature. I would look at how your puppy has been vaccinated, what protocol was followed and what vaccine was used.

Mine has all of the usual first aid stuff but also has Stingoes, tube of Neocort, Busopan, Maxalon tablets, Chlorhex soloution, asprin, Scourban, anti-inflamatories, injectable saline, pinetarsal, Vytrate (concentrate ), electrolytes, antihystamines, and I can't remember what else off the top of my head. But we are basically set up so that we can cover just about anything that could possibly go wrong on a weekend away.

Having missed the start of the thread, all I can say is " holy bajesus, that's one huge Chiwee" A kilo off is a huge achievement

MDBA had awesome first aid kits and they were very well priced. I've had mine a couple of years now try an email to [email protected]

The car is obviously a very exciting place for him, it means he's going somewhere, there's often a reward at the end of the ride for him and there's plenty to stimulate his senses when driving along. I would suggest a crate in the back of the wagon, a 30 or 36 inch should easily fit it there. Not only will that effectively control his movements in the car but you can also cover it over. I would also go back to the basics of putting him in the car and going nowhere. Sit in the driveway for a few minutes and if he's quiet reward him and take him out again. You may well find that a crate is the cure all in the car on it's own. It is for many dogs as their movement and what they see is restricted. I crate train all of mine, they learn very quickly to get in lay down and sleep until we stop. By the time they are 5 or six months old, the car is not an exciting place and they can ride free ( restrained of course ) if we want them to.

Give the GB and AA a miss, it's disgusting putrid stuff and so is what comes out the other end.

I was thinking about her last night

It's quite common for Pugs not to have an off button, it's one of the breed quirks

Cut the training treats and just let him settle in. When he's eating his regular meals for a couple of days , then start to introduce the treats again. You must take into account that any treats will contribute to his daily food requirements and if he's full on treats, he won't want anything else. Put a small amoutn of food in his bowl, give him 15 minutes and if it's not been eaten, pick it up and offer nothing until the next meal time.

If you are looking at bringing a baby puppy into the home, it will be close to 12 months before a puppy is ready to anywhere near the amount of exercise previously suggested. A baby puppy will need your time and attention but not 30-45 minutes of exercise. Puppies become tired when you exercise their mind, they get anough exercise just running around the back yard and playing games for the first 6 months or more. The laundry ( unless heated ) is a heat sink and no place to leave a puppy or dog during the day. They quickly become bored in a confined space and they also require sunlight and fresh air to grow and be healthy. If you are unsure about leaving a baby alone in the back yard, build a dog run, with a covered area and a kennel.

I visit a property on a regular basis where all of the dogs eat the clay from a certain little hole that they have dug.

I don't try and justify it. I do it because I like a clean face in the show ring, I always have and I always will. I don't clip as I find it sends the dogs grey quicker, I use a combination of plucking and a whicker whacker

We whisker whack all of the show dogs each time they are shown. They are just as agile and have no troubles regardless of them having whiskers or not.

ours still have necks and heads on most of them... that freaks me out but that's a whole ther story

I take mine straight to the vet for any punctures, for a jab with AB's and also a cortisone to reduce any swelling. Then it's just standard wound care from there

yeahhh for your little dog

I wouldn't desex and vaccinate at the same time. However he would not be due for any vaccinations again until he's around 14 months, depending on when his last puppy vacc was administered. ETA: I don't vaccinate for KC, it's pointless

;) a vet vaccinated an unwell puppy