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espinay2

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  1. espinay2

    New Puppy

    As some have mentioned, you will really be starting off behind the 8 ball with this pup and setting yourself up for a LOT of work and potential issues. I know the pup is cute. I can guarantee the pup is cute. All pups are suckerbait designed to pull at the heartstrings. What you need to do is sit down and think if that cuteness, which will quickly wear off (and wont be as cute at 3 am when you are taking it down the stairs to toilet outside for the tenth day in a row) will be worth all the difficulties you are likely placing in front of yourself. Pups should stay with their litter until at east 8 weeks. Studies have shown that pups separated earlier have increased issues socialising with other dogs and increased aggression and behavioural issues in general. The mother falling ill is not an excuse as most pups are generally weaned from their mothers by around 6 weeks of age anyway. It is being with the littermates that is important. It is up to the breeder to feed and raise the pups during this time (and not give excuses for palming them off early so they don't have to make an effort or spend the money on foods to raise them properly). At 6 weeks of age the pup should be getting 3 and preferably 4 feeds a day. So you will need someone there during the day to provide a mid day feed at least. Your breeder should be giving you a diet sheet and explaining what the pups should be eating. Many breeders also provide a started pack of food to help with the transition. Failing that a good quality puppy dry food and meaty bones are the basics. You don't need puppy milk, though I do give some goats milk mixed with egg and yoghurt as a snack (4th) meal to young pups. Usually this is stopped by 8 weeks of age. The mix of dog you are getting is a rather explosive one. Two very driven breeds that will need a LOT of mental stimulation and attention. There will be no more resting after work or getting up late or going out all weekend and leaving the dog at home. your dog will NEED constant activities to keep its brain and body active. That will mean early rising to go for walks and play, coming home and taking your dog out regardless of the weather, and doing activities with your dog on week nights and weekends. Without the effort you may find you end up with a dog that is destructive and disruptive to your neighbours and slowly going mad for lack of simulation so it 'acts out' a lot. This will be something you need to address for the life of the dog (the next 15 years) but will be particularly so for at least the first 3 years. Crating next to your bed is a good idea as you can hear when the dog gets restless and can take it down stairs and outside to toilet. The pup will have no bladder control for the first few weeks so will need out frequently (10pm, midnight, 3 am, 5am etc). By 8 weeks you may reduce the times you go out a bit. By about 12 weeks you may be ok with 10-11 pm and 5-6am. I would not recommend a pen or roaming at will. you will find toilet training much more difficult. During the day I would recommend her being in the back yard. You will need adequate shelter from wind etc such as a dog house. Are you taking the first few weeks off? A 6 week old pup is a bit young to be leaving on its own that long. By 8 weeks they can cope better with being left for increasingly longer periods. The pup should not be taken out for walks in the beginning - particularly until it has been vaccinated (the breeder should be vaccinating and microchipping before the pup leaves). A pu that young is also way to young for walks and needs more free play. You can get the pup put and about, but mostly carry it. As the pup matures and after its 12 week vaccination it can start to go more places and go on short walks. I would not take the pup to public areas like parks until at least after the vaccination at 12 weeks, but talk to your vet as it depends how prevalent things are in your area. Bottom line though - I would not recommend this puppy. You are setting yourself up for lot of hardship based on a pup being cute. Well chosen pups based on well thought through decisions are also cute and will bring you much much less stress and hassle throughout it lifetime. I highly recommend setting yourself up for a win by passing on this pup and seeking a better option. I am sure the folks here can help you identify a type of dog and where to get it that suits your needs if you ask the question.
  2. There is a slightly older girl advertised on the Maltese breed page that may be worth looking at : http://www.dogzonlin...ure/maltese.asp There is also one litter advertised (and often people will import from NZ so don't let its location stop you investigating) The comments are right that sadly a maltese is harder to get now. So you may as an alerternative need to find a breeder you like and see if you can get on a waiting list for a pup (I do find it frustrating if people are not answering your emails. Be sure to put detail in about what you plan with the puppy etc as that may get a better response). You could also contact the breed clubs and talk to the secretary and see if they can refer you. It may, if you feel you can, also be better to call and chat to some breeders rather than email. Some may feel more comfortable talking on the phone. I do agree with the suggestion to look at breeds like the Papillon too.
  3. A bit off topic, but even LGD breeds bred as working dogs should be raised with plenty of human contact. The myth that they should be raised hands off has caused much more trouble than good. In relation to the selling of dogs, I do agree that in reality a person selling a dog can charge as much as they like. To not allow them to do that may be akin to 'price fixing' which is illegal. It is up to the consumer to decide if the product is worth the price. Whether someone thinks it is worth the price can be personal (ask a Holden person if a Ford is worth the price for example) but it can also come down to marketing and supply and demand and also education abut what they should expect. If purebred dogs want to 'compete' they need to 'sell' the virtues of their product to the public in a way that is meaningful to them. In reality purebred dogs are somewhat of a niche market. They make up only a small percentage of the dog population (and frankly there is no way they could fulfil the whole market). IF we want people to understand about how to make good consumer choices when if comes to purchasing a dog, they need more education on what to look for. That however goes beyond 'don't buy a mutt buy a purebred' as that is not in reality thedetermining factor when it comes to getting a healthy stable pet and in reality is only minimally helpful (and sometimes depending on where they buy a purebred dog and/or how the message is given, it is downright damaging). We need to educate about other indicators, and that includes things like the value of ongoing support and assistance etc.
  4. Generally an adult sized crate here too (though I have a couple of smaller ones for smaller dogs I have had in the past so use them just because I have them). With a big crate, you can either buy one with a divider if you want the option, or what I havedone on occasion is get a huge stuffed toy (one of those over sized teddy bears for example) and put in it to fill up some of the space. Added bonus is they like cuddling up to the toy.
  5. I like and mostly use Panagenics. A nice natural product system that works very well. You can read about it on www.panagenics.com. Lots of videos on youtube about how to use it. You can purchase it in Australia from http://www.axessorizedogproducts.net/ Alternately I like the Fidos range of products. A lot of pet stores carry it. The Fidos herbal shampoo is one of my favourites for a good basic all round shampoo.
  6. Hi Meg, Good for you for wanting to do things right. You are off to a great start. An important thing to understand if you are going to breed is that no dog is perfect. As breeders we need to understand their faults, failings and weaknesses (and those of the dog we plan to use) so that we may breed to the best advantage and not double up on anything we may not want. Understanding our dogs faults, failings and weaknesses as well as their virtues does not mean that we love them any less or that they are not perfect as our pets. This separation of the two - being able to see our dogs from the loving eye of a pet owner and the critical eye of a breeder both at the same time - is something that many find difficult. My partner finds it hard to do, which is why I am the one to make the breeding decisions ;-) . If you want to be a breeder though, it will be important that you learn to develop a critical eye when it comes to assessing your dogs. Your dog WILL have faults and failings that you need to take into account. EVERY dog does. It can take time to develop and eye to see them though, which is why I suggest a mentor if you can. Joining a breed club and making friends with some breeders, going along to shows, finding some good forums to be on, joining groups such as 'Canine Show Dog Evaluations' on Facebook, getting a copy of some of Pat Hastings books etc (I recommend the book 'Structure in Action' and her 'Puppy Puzzle' DVD). These will all help you to learn, put you in contact with people who can help steer you in the right direction and help you find the right dog for your bitch if you do decide to breed her. Be aware though that sometimes the right and hardest thing for a breeder to do is decide NOT to breed a dog. My first breeding prospect (who was also my first champion) was never bred. I decided she was not a dog I wished to breed for a range of reasons. This dog was my heart dog. She was the most wonderful perfect dog in my 'pet owner' eyes. She really could not be any better. But to my critical 'breeder eyes', I knew she was not a good breeding prospect and would not give me the start I desired. As a result she was desexed and stayed that perfect dog. It was a very good decision for me, as when I did finally breed a litter it was way better than I would have ever got from her. But don't think she was 'wasted' as far as breeding goes - every dog teaches us and provides us with opportunities to learn. The ones we don't breed as much as those we do. As we love them, they teach us (the biggest lesson IMO being the need for patience and the need to always keep learning). Good luck on your journey.
  7. It is a great resource. An extension of what I have already been doing but has given me some great ideas. Definitely worthwhile.
  8. Taking time off is fine, but be sure to get the pup used to being outside on its own for periods of time from the beginning. The biggest issues with separation anxiety can start when the pup has constant company for the first few weeks and is then suddenly left outside on its own all day. If they get used to being on their own for a couple of hours at first and building up to the whole day then it goes a lot smoother. I have also had pups that I have picked up on the weekend then gone straight back to work on the Monday. They get their routine established right from the beginning and have no issue with it.
  9. More and more it is being recommended to use calcium during whelping rather than Oxy. I do think Oxy has been over used in some situations where it has done more harm than good. Used I the right place it can be useful. But it seems many are now jumping to use it when the birth is slow (when it may just be a whelping pause where the pups are still moving down into position and the bitch is taking a rest). If a pup is stuck too, as mentioned, it can do more arm than good as placentas separate and you have more chance of dead pups behind the stuck one.
  10. There will always be individual variations but it is definitely breed specific. I have dogs at both ends of the spectrum here. Pyrenean Mountain Dogs which have very low prey drive. In general they are not toy focussed once over the baby play stage (and even then not so much), wouldn't fetch for the life of them, are not switched on to any great degree by moving objects and are very tolerant of small creatures. Enter my Saluki who is the other end of the spectrum and will focus on anything that moves and is in for the grab and kill. You an see the difference right from their behaviour as puppies. My Saluki will never ever be trusted with my Poultry. My Pyrs are. FWIW too I rarely ever recommend my breed (Pyrs). People enquiring about it get to hear all the negatives right off the bat. I would rather they hear the downside first off and then decide if the positives are worth it. :laugh:
  11. A Siberian Husky won Best in show at Westminster in the US with half an ear (Ch Innisfree's Sierra Cinnar). There are others in Australia who have been record breaking winners with scars (from memory, one top winning Dalmatian for example). Many other dogs have competed with scars of some kind. Don't write you dog off for not being 'perfect' because it may have a scar. Give the judges some credit.
  12. Franklin is a special case. I have followed his story for a couple of years now and was aware of reports of him before that. He is Canberra's own 'Red Dog' if you will. He has the support of a lot of the community who care for him, watch out for him and report on his movements. Yes they worry about him, but he is kind of a special case. When the dog control and the RSPCA support leaving him be you know this is no ordinary dog! I wouldn't be surprised if he gets his own statue one day. Frankie's facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/FranklinTheGungahlinMaremma/?fref=ts
  13. There is a cafe upstairs in the pavilion and a few vendors just outside the pavilion. Though taking your own is good too. It can get warm (though the fans now make it a lot better) and it is noisy. But it can be a good day. If you have a crate it will be a lot easier for sure though generally it is good to tag team with someone to watch each other's dogs if you can. The best tip I can give you is travel light. Pack everything you need into something that is easily carried or pulled along (a wheeled bag of some kind is a very good idea - I pack everything in my grooming case that is a big wheeled toolbox but if I didn't have one I would be using one of those wheeled shopping bags like people use at farmers markets). If you have everything done so it is easy to carry in a minimum number of trips it will make getting in and out of the pavilion easier. The car park is a fair way away, and the drop off point is still a bit of a walk up to the pavilion. If you are on your own you will need to drop your gear off, then take the dog with you to the car park and walk back with the dog. When exiting many people walk with dog and all gear back to the car park in one go. Otherwise you will need to walk the dog back to the carpark and then bring the car back for the gear. If there are two of you it becomes a little easier as one can stay with dog and gear while the other parks/gets the car etc
  14. Pyrenean Mountain Dog. Fairly self explanatory. In French 'Le Chien du Montagne des Pyrenees' - the dog of the mountains of the Pyrenees. The Pyrenees mountains where the breed is from cover the border between France and Spain.
  15. Frankly, I would put the best you can in now as it may save you a lot of expense and grief later. Particularly as you know your dog is a stock chaser. Something like this is handy and can be taken with you if you move: http://www.vebopet.c...-run-fence.html
  16. We fenced off a couple of acres on our 100 acre property using 1.8 metre mesh (the strong 'rabbit/sheep mesh' fencing). The fence is 1.5 metres high with a 30cm lap at the bottom to help prevent digging. We also have secure dig proof 1.8m high runs where the dogs can be when not supervised. This works for us. If I needed better I would also run a Hotwire top and bottom. I would never trust normal farm fencing, particularly ring lock (which is fairly easy to push through) for any dog. how large an area you fence for the dog will depend on your budget, but you WILL need a better fence or risk a dead dog, dead stock and fines as well as the ire of all your neighbours. The saying 'good fences make good neighbours' always applies. (A final note on 'invisible' fencing. The law in new requires that there also be a fence 1.5m high. It is not legal to install it with normal farm fencing only. Not sure about the laws in other states)
  17. I have always pronounced it tight-er as that is the way Dr Shultz (leading vaccination researcher and considered to guru in this respect) pronounces it. I would likely avoid the clinics that offer the payment plan option. This is likely to be a chain owned veterinary clinic and they are fairly well known for the practice of 'upselling' and being fairly profit driven (Choice has written articles about the practice).
  18. The Andis 2 speed pro is a good workhorse clipper. I have had mine for years. I should add that a lot of people on the groomer groups I am on love the Wahl Bravura cordless.
  19. It could work really well ... or not. Best thing is to try and think of every scenario you can up front, discuss it and put it in writing. Also have provision in the contract for a 'buyout' with agreed terms if one owner wants to leave the relationship and the dog is to be transferred to one name only. there may be several scenarios for this - such as what happens if the dog is no longer or never is breedable, when it is agreed it be desexed for whatever reason, or simply if the relationship becomes 'untenable'. for a male, also provisions on collection and ownership of semen such as whether you can each collect and own semen from the dog solely in your own names or whether that stays co owned too.
  20. A lot of this knowledge comes from being involved with a breed. You learn who the breeders are, you learn from breeders, you learn what the breed community is like and the various pressures being placed upon it. And you learn from other breeders what sort of demand there is for your breed and from who. That is the value of mentorship and spending some time in the breed 'community' before breeding. Agree very much with this too. I get a fair amount of enquiries through my website even though I have no puppies available. Mine is a less common breed and the amount of enquiries is reasonable for the type of dog it is (not for the average owner). A lot of them are unsuitable, but you can get a fairly good idea of what the demand is like. I should add that in my breed breeders have to a certain extent purposely not bred to 'demand' as they have seen the fate of other similar breeds which have become more popular. Our breed may be easy to place, but it is not as easy to place well. The number of puppies born has remained at around 50 per year on average for around 30 years. We have minimal to no rescue requirements (to our knowledge thee were no Pyrs in Australia requiring rescue in the last 12 months). This of course brings its own issues for the gene pool in this country (it is small in this country with only about 10 breeders on average, but is healthy worldwide) and breeders have to put in the effort and dollars to import dogs and semen with reasonable frequency if they want to contribute to the breed here. Given the small and shrinking gene pool of some breeds (there are less Skye Terriers in the world than there are Pandas) it may IMO be wise for some breeds to actively try and create greater demand to ensure the survival of their breeds. There is no one size fits all and each breed needs its own approach.
  21. I find Labradors an interesting breed. They have an interesting and varied history. There has always been a fair amount of variation in the style of dog. This is a very interesting speech by renowned Labrador breeder (both show and field), the late Mary Roslin Williams that is well worth listening to: I can highly recommend her book too if you can get a copy (it is out of print but worth paying the money if you find one) - "Reaching for the Stars: Formerly Advanced Labrador Breeding"
  22. SSM is asking about your views in relation to your own dogs and activities. For example, how important to you is it that your dog maintain and display the instincts it is bred for or would you be ok with your dogs displaying behaviours or competing with your dog(s) in events which emphasise traits which work agaist the breeds required temperament and purpose. For example lure coursing with a livestock guardian or retriever (requiring a much higher level of prey drive than the breed should typically have to perform its traditional function - and in some cases potentially showing it to be unsuited to its original function).
  23. A stuffed toy is generally fine and often a very good idea. The whole litter can play with it, but your pup can bring it home with the smells of its siblings on it. Provides comfort for the pup when it goes home. Be sure to get something puppy safe and washable. I have had people bring toys which I have sent home with the pups when they leave.They did ask me first.
  24. Having multiple dogs is very rewarding, at least for me. I enjoy seeing them interact and work as a team. I can indeed watch my dogs for hours and enjoy watching them together and being with them as a group. I enjoy seeing the older dogs teach younger dogs and how their relationships develop in the group. Management is about reducing risk so that things run smoothly and are happy. The better set up you are and the better you manage it, the less stress for both dogs and owners. It is about being proactive and situationally aware. I don't really consider it being 'more management' as it is now habit and we have set ourselves up in a way that assists us. Though for a person new to owning multiples it may require learning some new ways of doing things (I have just got off the phone from explaining to someone that to prevent fights at dinner time among their dogs, separating them so they can not get to each others bowls will reduce stress significantly and prevent arguments over resources - sounds simple and it is, but for some this is a huge adjustment in practice and thinking). I will say that without the proper infrastructure in place things are infinitely harder and can definitely be more stressful (noting that good infrastructure can range from simple things such as crates and baby gates to pens and runs or divided yards etc). I can remember many years ago, going from owning two dogs to owning three was a big eye opener for me. I could see more clearly the dynamics of the group and my dogs 'being dogs' in how they related to each other. Owning multiple dogs does require more skill and awareness (spidey senses just like a mother knows what her children are doing behind her back LOL!). It is certainly not for everyone, but it can be very rewarding done well.
  25. Agree very much that the dynamic changes when you have more than two dogs. It can be a whole other ballgame. My breed is pretty well known as being same sex aggressive. Not an uncommon thing. There have been a couple of times over the years where I have needed to keep dogs separated and have experienced some pretty large fights which would not have ended well if I had not broken them up. First experience was with a younger entire bitch who decided an aging desexed bitch was fair game. This was not a 'dominance issue' as the older bitch was always lower down the order. As some others have experienced, this was an older unwell animal that was for some reason no longer tolerated. We managed it through separation which worked well until the older bitches death from her heart condition 6 months later. This same bitch also around the same time had a number of altercations with another entire bitch. This one more establishing position (and yes, the two situations were likely tied in together even though individually they appear different - it was basically a time of change in the pack as an older dog was leaving and a younger dog was maturing with the resulting shuffles in between). The situation was managed until things settled and they then got on fine for the rest of their lives. Another situation where we have had fights was years later - new players by this stage - where we were again adjusting the pack dynamics with the introduction of a 10 year old desexed male who had previously had limited dog interaction. This time the situation was with a younger entire male who was the only male in a pack of females. We practiced separation in the beginning with active management and habituation to the older dogs presence. It took about 12 months of active management and a number of all out fights which we needed to break up before the situation was settled and they could be together without issue (until the older dog passed away a t age 14.) My current dogs all cohabitate well (one entire male and three entire females). We have agonistic behaviour at times (lots of noise and grumbles) but to date no major issues. I am risk averse though and actively manage the group. When we are out they are separated with no more than two together. They are separated for meals. If tensions are high we generally step in to manage it such as separation with a baby gate in the house till things calm down or a simple step through between them (classic 'splitting') from me to remind them to calm down. I am always actively watching for issues. When girls are in season everyone is managed more closely. I also currently have dogs from lines that are better known for their ability to cohabitate and actively select for that. But I am always aware that changes could occur, particularly around pressure points where pack dynamics are changing. For example, I also have a younger entire male that comes to stay for a month at a time several times a year. Up till now his regular re-integration back into the pack has been smooth (with a several day reintroduction with the resident male before they are permitted together). But now the young male is over 2 years of age, the two males will not be permitted together but will be kept separate with pens, runs and baby gates as the young male is at an age where we will have a pressure point on the pack dynamics with the existing 9 year old male (who also now has a leg injury). So being aware of this pressure point, I manage it. I agree that comparison to wolf packs is not helpful except to explain how they are different from our domestic packs. As Mech has explained, a wolf pack in the wild is basically a family unit. You have an older parent pair and younger generations. The dynamics are family based. The pack also has the freedom to expel a pack member or for the pack to split. Mech has also explained how the same rules do not generally apply in 'captive packs' - both wolf or domestic dog. In captive situations we put dogs together who would likely not live together in the wild. We contain them and do not provide opportunity for 'expulsion' from a pack or a pack split. We don't often have a single multigenerational family unit. When it comes to managing captive wolf packs, they often need to be managed the same way as dogs (based on my experiences at Wolf Park in the US with ethologist Eric Klinghammer). Older wolves or wolves not tolerated by the pack are for the most part removed to separate enclosures by themselves or in 'mini packs' or relocated to other facilities. They don't expect them to 'get on' or sort it out as sorting it out would often end in death in these types of situations. With our dogs it is a similar situation. We do not give them the freedom to decide who their pack is and who they do and don't live with. So we need to actively manage that situation.
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