espinay2

Go bigger not smaller. I prefer quarters or frames (I start my 3.5 -4 week old pups on meaty quarters/thigh pieces etc). And don't hover! The hovering and the small pieces is making this way worse than it ever should be. Doing that you are just creating bad eating behaviour (and bluntly YOU may actually end up the cause of the issues you fear). Relax a little, go bigger, and give her a chance to figure it out with a lot less stress than she is getting from you at the moment.

When I travel I often have a non showing dog along with me. They are handled the same way as the dogs being shown (crated or penned in gazebo, hanging out in gazebo, walked on lead in the appropriate areas etc. Mine even get table time for a quick grooming session as they love it so much and they know that is what you do at a show lol!). the only real difference is they don't go in the ring. I make sure the dog is presented well (i.e. while they may not be as polished as the ones being shown, they are well groomed and clean) as all the dogs are 'on display' and a reflection of me both in and outside of the ring.

My pups get chicken pieces from around 3.5 to 4 weeks of age. The little vultures suck all the meat off at first, but certainly by 8 weeks of age they are handling any part of the chicken, turkey necks and brisket bones.

If you want to see some more good stuff, check out www.puppyculture.com :)

I get a lot of interstate queries. It does make the process a little more difficult as I do like to meet people if possible (and many who are keen will visit if they can. I have one from WA who is on the east coast next week and making a special day trip to visit with me). I have a questionnaire, and I talk to them a lot. I try and get a 'feel' for them. Often they will send me photos of their yard, them with their current or past dogs etc and you can tell a little from that. An address means you can also check google earth. You can Google their name and email address etc too to see if anything untoward comes up. There are many reasons they may contact you - they like the look of your dogs or something about what you do, you came up in a search, you come recommended, scarcity of pups, or just putting the feelers out anywhere they can in the hopes of a reply. My first purebred dog many moons ago came from interstate and was flown to me sight unseen after several phone calls, so I don't automatically discount them, as it may potentially be another 'me'.

You learn to use translator a LOT LOL! Most of the Scandanavians speak English. The French speakers are manageable in writing with google translator etc or get someone to translate for you for the serious negotiations (which a lot do). Have muddled through quite a few conversations with rudimentary French and sign language LOL! (the language of dogs is universal ;) ). Patricia Princehouse (La Brise) ran a tour to the French National including visits to breeders etc last year. Not sure if she is doing it this year or not (show is in September). A lot of people from all over the world attend that show so there are always English speakers around.Many of the well known French international breed judges/mentors like Dupas and Pecoult speak English (Dupas actually judged out here this time last year).

Glad to see your computer up and running :) They are definitely an interesting breed and I will have fun following Hype's progress I am sure! Naturally being a Pyrenees breed I am drawn to them, and many Pyr breeders/owners the world over also have the little Berger as well. Definitely not the breed for everyone as you say! The corded ones I have seen only have a few cords on their back rather than the whole coat. I have quite a few photos of them from the Pyrenean Breeds Nationale d'Elevage in France (show held annually in Argeles-Gazost) so will have to dig them out. The breed club in France for the breed is http://www.chiens-des-pyrenees.com/ A well known breeder in the US that has both breeds (though mostly the Pyr Shep these days - their Sunny Bear is the First Pyr Shep to win an AKC Best in Show): https://www.facebook...enean.Shepherds

Yes, any dog should be supervised around babies/children and there is one well known case of a Pomeranian that killed a baby. www.liamjperkfoundation.org is a fantastic website for learning about managing dogs and children and just how easily bites can happen, even when supervised (see the story of Liam for example which led to his parents starting the foundation). I do find it very interesting though, from a behavioural perspective, the particular link between arctic breeds and issues with neonates (when issues/stats in relation to human and even child fatalities/ severe bites are quite low for these breeds/types outside of that initial neonate period). That the link exists is undeniable and something we can learn from in terms of animal behaviour. It is simply something that needs to be recognised as part of the breed nature - they can be high risk around very young children - most specifically those under 30 days of age.

Fatal attacks by any breed are statistically rare. But where breeds like Huskies etc show up, it is largely in relation to neonates. It is not specifically the number of deaths, but the type. Bottom line - these Arctic breeds can have a problem when it comes to neonates (which they do not recognise as being 'people') and owners of these breeds should be aware of it and take it into account when managing their dogs. This does not make them 'bad dogs' or a horrible breed. It is a factor of the breeds nature that simply needs to be taken into account. http://blog.dogsbite.org/2010/02/2010-fatality-11-day-old-baby-killed-by.html http://www.dogsbite.org/dogsbite-search-results.php?cx=003395341087663039786%3Aze_5rreyew4&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=UTF-8&q=husky&sa.x=0&sa.y=0

You know, I saw the heading of the thread and I immediately thought 'Siberian Husky I bet'. Well I was fairly close with it being a Malamute. The reason I thought this? The statistics on arctic breeds with Neonates is not that good. It is THE biggest issue with them in relation to children. Neonatal children (young babies) set off prey drive quite strongly in Arctic breeds such as Sibes and Mals. Unfortunately deaths of small babies as a result of attacks by these breeds ('good dogs' owned by the family) is quite high and not that uncommon. Anyone owning a Sibe or Mal etc (any dog, but stats show owners of these breeds need to be particularly careful) should be VERY careful having their dog around a young baby, and NEVER EVER leave them alone in the same room.

When it comes to co ownership it is all about the relationship and if you think you can be friends with the person (and are willing to maintain that relationship). I do highly recommend all the 'what-ifs' be discussed and set down in an agreement in writing. If you are not sure what would happen in a particular scenario, ask and discuss it. Get them to explain clearly how they would like the relationship to work. When it comes to co-owning a male that is often easier than co owning a female. Sometimes the breeder may just want to keep their options open, and the dog may never be used at stud for example. In reality most stud dogs are used infrequently if at all. But if it is to be, you need to get an idea of when, where and how often and what you are willing to accommodate. Also who would get the stud fee (for example if the dog is to be used for outside dogs), what health testing is required before breeding and who pays for the health testing. Discuss with the breeder how often they think the dog may be used so you can discuss including limits in the agreement and also how far you are willing to go out of your way to accommodate it. Basically talk it all through. I also have had agreements where if the co-owner wishes to desex, I must be consulted first (if there is a valid reason, then I have agreed to it) and be given the opportunity/option of collecting and freezing semen before it is done (and if it is done without my input/agreement, then a specified monetary penalty applies). Sometimes co-ownership can be very handy. For example, your dog may have somewhere to stay when you go away - a place they are familiar with and happy with. I have a co-owned dog I bred that regularly returns to me for holidays at no cost to the co-owner (we are three hours apart so the contract specifies we meet at the halfway point for the handover - which we do unless something else is more mutually convenient). This is his 'other home' and he is as happy here as in his 'normal' home. We have info about his visits in the contract. If in NSW council registration should be pretty much a non issue if the dog is older. NSW rego is lifetime registration so the dog should already be lifetime registered and the fee already paid. If you transfer the dog to your name with council, I would suggest putting the breeder/co-owner as the 'secondary contact'. If the dog is to be shown, the ease of upkeep with often depend on breed. For shorthaired dogs this will be relatively easy. Coated dogs will need more discussion with the breeder about what will be involved. As for maintaining the dog in 'show condition' - basically keep the dog fit and healthy and don't let it get fat (as ANY owner should be doing). You may want to specify how often the dog would be shown, whether they are to be local shows only, or primarily specialites (which only happen a couple of times per year), or whether the dog will only be shown until it has its champion title (or if it will be shown after that). Also whether you will take the dog to shows or will the breeder pick up the dog. Whether you are responsible for pre-show bathing or grooming and any maintenance grooming or will the breeder do that etc. Also who is responsible for paying entry fees. Basically it is wise to go into it with your eyes open and decide if it will work for you. Some find it fun to own a 'show dog' without having to put in all the effort of showing them themselves (basically bragging rights LOL!). Some find it a good introduction to the show world and as a result get 'hooked' on shows themselves as a hobby. Others would find it a hindrance and too much effort. Horses for courses. As a final word I will give an example of a similar agreement I know of. I used to groom an old border collie for a family. A VERY well loved dog and a great family. When he died they were looking for a new dog. I happened to know of a male Portuguese Water Dog that was looking to be placed, buy the breeder/handler (handler was a person who was showing the dog for the breeder) wanted the dog to be shown to its title. I knew these people would make a good home so 'hooked them up'. They were the perfect home for him. 'Basil' went away for weekends occasionally for shows or came to stay when they went on holidays. He was groomed regularly by me and the 'handler'. The owner did stress a little about his diet and coat care making sure he was in good condition (though to be honest I didn't see it as any more than many owners do on occasion and we were quick to reassure them they were doing a great job - though occasionally we had to remind them about too many treats... again normal for many dogs LOL!). The children loved getting all the ribbons that Basil won and liked to come along occasionally to watch him in the ring (they were not into showing, but loved that their dog was a show dog). When Basil was finished being shown, he was desexed and transferred fully to their name. He passed away recently at the age of 15. I saw his owner in the supermarket yesterday who was telling me what an absolutely wonderful dog he was, what a great decision it was to take him and how much they miss him.

Yes to a friend having a dog stolen. This was about 20 years ago now though. It was a Dalmatian puppy - littermate to mine. It was in the suburban backyard of a breeder in a pen with its littermate. There was a walkway along the back of the yard and they took palings off the fence, went through another pen and stole the puppy. They tried to take the other puppy too, but dropped it when making their getaway. Years later someone who new what happened (but was not one of the thieves - more an accessory after the fact) 'confessed' to the breeder. It was some young males who simply decided they wanted a puppy, so took it. The dog was never recovered. I also know more recently of a young Leonberger bred by a friend who was stolen (older dog wasn't) on the NSW coast. After a social media and local media campaign the dog became 'too hot' and was dumped by the thieves in/near a railway yard (from memory the dog was seen being dropped off, and then was recognised from the media campaign to reunite it with its owners). There was also a case last year that I followed on social media of a number of Amstaff pups (from memory) that were stolen in Victoria from their breeder and through the power of social media were recovered from a house in NSW. These are the three 'verified' cases I know of.From what I understand of the cases these were not the work of organised 'dog napping rings', but were the actions of individuals.

Where on earth did they get that idea from.... Unfortunately very wrong and sounds like they have an accident waiting to happen.

Nobody complains that a magic trick isnt real or a magician doesn't put on a good show .... Maybe she should have called the third dog out at the end as well, but I don't see it is such a big deal. She still trained all three dogs and told a great story.

It's mainly about planning. i do have a job that is fairly flexible about me scheduling my leave when I want to to accommodate showing. But it is about maintaining that work life balance. I may do a few weekends in a row showing then nothing for a month. It depends on time of year, the shows and where they are, where my dogs are at with age/coat etc at the time as well as other things going on in my life. I often won't show on a Friday (actually I rarely show on a Friday). I find three days in a row too much for both me and my dogs anyway. Sometimes only one day on a weekend is enough for me to handle health wise (due to chronic medical condition) and also with other family commitments. I stick mostly to shows within about 3 hours of me. Only longer distances for more important shows. So mostly shows I can comfortably get there and back on the day. As I said, it is about balance and planning.

Just relax ;-) (Easier said than done I know!) I remember my fist show dog and it does take time for us to learn. If you are in the ring with a puppy too a certain amount of wriggling and playing is expected. Even as a more experienced handler I have had pups roll their way around the ring (because it is fun) and jump on top of me when trying to stack. The main thing with pups is keep a sense of humour and have fun! As mentioned though, controlling the head is a good start. And accepting an imperfect stack for a moment of stillness and head straight is a good start. You can then start moving the legs a bit more as they learn to focus. getting the front right fist as mentioned is a good aim. You can get the back legs to follow along later. Where you have the lead will help a lot too. Don't let it slip down the neck. With it down the neck you have no control. Keep it behind the ears and under the chin and you will be able to control the head better. Also if you are not on it already, I recommend the 'Australian Dog Show Newbies' group on Facebook.

I have used Cryogenes several times. They should be able to direct you to a vet in the country you are importing from that can do it and liaise with the breeders on what is required. It can get tricky at times with language difficulties, though the collection side I found goes much easier once a vet has been identified as you can both deal directly with them. The bit I had trouble with at one point was the registration paperwork. Things were a bit confusing, even with a breeder in Finland who was a very good English speaker, until I figured out what the equivalent was in Finnish for a 'certified' (i.e. notarised as a true copy by a justice of the peace) pedigree!! Once I figured out the Finnish word, we were home and hosed LOL!

I know this has been hard for you, but I believe it was the right decision. All the best with the new pup.

It's hard work, requires stubbornness as well as some resources but the whole "either/or" thing is crap - embrace the power of "and". So many of the problems that people seek to solve by breaking the rules can be better solved by just having higher standards. Exactly this. Thank you very much.

Perhaps not, but many use them. You'd be surprised the lengths those irrelevant pedigree dog breeders will go to for stock. In my immediate circle of friends, three have imported dogs (multiple imports in some cases), more have imported semen and I've personally got feelers out for an import. Both dogs from the mating I have done have imports within two generations - one is the daughter of an import. Perhaps we move in different circles. My breeder friends are thoughtful, knowledgeable and responsible. They take breeding very seriously and invest heavily in their hobby. Crossbreeding may be perceived you to be the magic bullet for the ills of the pedigree dog world. I happen to think that careful breeding can produce the same result. You'll need some data to prove genetic drift from the rest of the world in any breed. The last Whippet results I saw suggested the USA was experiencing it, not here. In my breed, all but two breeders have imported either dogs and/or semen from overseas. Often multiple times. (and at least one of those two has used imports brought in by others).

I like the Liberty tables. They are very stable. When you look at tables, look for one where the upside down U at the bottom of the legs is wide and short. If it is taller, it is less stable.

Or Alabama rot, which can't even be vaccinated against. Not to mention the U.S. is currently in the throes of a rather large canine influenza outbreak. http://caninechronicle.com/current-articles/outbreak-2/

For $80 on ebay I bought a Lantun 2 speed dryer to 'road test' for puppy owners. Working well so far. Most pet owners don't think they are necessary (and for years I didn't have one either). And you can get away without one for sure. But boy they cut the work in thirds (i.e. more than half) and those that have purchased one have thanked me profusely for convincing them. And Ditto what GrufLife said on the Fuminator and the training. Can't emphasise the training enough.

Not specific to goldens, but generally relevant for most double coated breeds. this may help: http://espinay.com/grooming

Have you imported a dog from overseas which is registered in that country? If so, there is a process of applying to have the breed and the dog recognised which is in the rules and regulations of the state kennel controls. Have at look at the regulations on the DogsVIC website (noting you are in Victoria) and have a talk with them about what needs to be done. Note you generally have to get the dog here first in order to start the process.