espinay2

Cryogenes. I have done multiple shipments with them and find them great to deal with and very thorough. In the US you will liaise with ICSB Grass Valley who ships regularly to Cryogenes. They are also excellent.

They may be 'money hungry' or they may not. Some assumptions being made? Guessing she had saggy breasts? Some bitches go back into shape quickly and some don't. Some have one litter and have big boobs for life and others have several and spring back well. Do you know how many litters she has had? Or is the number an assumption? 'Senior'? Do you know how old she was? Is senior 5 years? 8 years? Older? The 'creator' thing is yes a bit weird. You were talking to the daughter though. Not the dogs owner. She may have had a few things confused (perhaps he bred two dogs which carried the dilute gene to 'create' a litter with blues in it at some point). Whatever we personally think of blues, the fact that they have blues does not necessarily tell us they are 'money hungry'. That is an outside generalisation. They may possibly be 'backyard' breeders ( again an assumption) but even backyard breeders have many motivations for breeding, not all about money. They kept a female pup they bred to continue their line. Many breeders do this. Heck I have done it. That is the point of breeding. To have something to go on with. We don't know how much they sell them for (except it varies) so can not make any judgement based on that either. So exactly how are they money hungry?

Tips for new players: Be aware many pet stores may sell things a lot dearer than you may get things in some other places (online or at dog shows for instance). A crate at a chain pet store may be double what you would pay for the same thing on ebay or stores like www.vebopet.com.au The 'Bargain' stores (Places like the Reject Shop and Go-Lo etc) can be a good source of a lot of things. Look at them for things like dog toys for instance - particularly the fluffy toys that get destroyed quickly. Some stores also sell things like dog bowls etc of a reasonable quality for a reasonable price but this can vary from store to store (some offer reasonable collars and leads but there is more variation in the quality of these so it may pay to look for better quality to elsewhere to be sure. Invest in a good lead and it will last a long time if you care for it). . Don't just look in the 'pet' section either. I have picked up some great stainless steel bowls in the 'homeware' section of these types of stores. Some Discount Chemists carry things like dog worming/heartworm etc tablets for a reasonable price when compared to some other stores (when I compared buying some of the products to buying online - which is usually cheaper - it was cheaper for me to buy at the chemist as I was not paying delivery) With puppies the priority for bedding is washable and disposable. IMO it is best not to invest in expensive beds, particularly if your pup goes through a destructive phase. Otherwise, a good source of beds is dog shows. There will often be vendors at shows who sell dog products often for a lot cheaper than you will get elsewhere. Shows can also be a good place to pick up grooming equipment. If you can sew, you can make dog beds very easily. Cotton or polarfleece on the outside and one or two layers of quilt wadding on the inside. These types of beds (often sold at dog shows) are easily washable and dry quickly. As mentioned, a great way to make a puppy pen is to buy the mesh 'compost bin' panels at bunnings. Use cable ties or snap clips to join the sides and for a 'door' opening rather than the spiral thingies they come with.

I work full time. I have done so my whole adult dog owning life. It is not about the hours someone works but their level of commitment to making the dog part of their family and life.

Agree with Perse. Weaning isnt an all or nothing thing, it is a gradual process of reduction. Even at 8 weeks or more, right before they go home, the odd suck is not going to 'hurt' them, or mum, and in most cases mum will gradually reduce their access as they eat more solid foods and she reduces production. Being told to go away by mum (don't bite so hard) also teaches them to be gentle with those teeth.

How do you get to know the breed standard and different lines to figure out what you want REalise that in the beginning you may read and read the standard, and may even learn the words by heart, that there is a difference between learning the standard and 'knowing' the standard. Truly 'knowing' the standard comes with time and is as much about understanding the history and why things were included as about the words themselves. So always trying to learn learn learn about your breed and its history will be helpful. A lot of what you will learn will come from getting involved and talking and listening to long time breeders and owners. Even if you haven't got a show prospect yet, getting as involved as you can will be a big help. You will along the way work out what you like and don't like. Be aware though that as you gain more knowledge, your initial ideas may change. So always be prepared to be flexible and even prepared to 'start again' down the track if you feel the direction you started in is not the one you wish to pursue. Breeders - sorting the wheat from the chaff It can take time to work this out. It can come down to you gravitating to those people who share your ideals or whose vision you appreciate. . How to convince a breeder you are "safe hands" for a show prospect Get to know them. Even a breeder who initially says they 'dont sell dogs on main' etc etc may decide you are a good risk with time. YOu need to develop the relationship first. HEre I would also recommend that you don't automatically dismiss co-ownership. In some cases it may be the only way you get to own a good dog for breeding/showing in the beginning. There is a lot that can be discussed on this issue, but my personal experience is that I potentially missed out on some very good opportunities early on by not wanting to co own and when I later understood the issues a bit better and did co own, it was some of the best decisions I ever made. But again the relationship with the breeder MUST be good and you MUST be willing to work to maintain that good relationship. Also be prepared to get a male as your first show dog. It is often a lot easier to get a nice male than a female. And showing a male can be a good way to show your commitment, get you 'in' and also gain your more trust if you want to eventually get a bitch. What does "show prospect" mean and dealing with pups that don't turn out as well as expected A show prospect means that it has potential to be shown. But it may not turn out - breeders dont have crystal balls and even ones they keep themselves sometimes don't turn out as hoped. Best advice I can give is to have planned what you will do if the pup doesnt turn out as being suitable for the show ring. Are you happy to keep it as a pet and try again at some point with another dog? Will you return the dog to the breeder or ask assistance to rehome it in a pet only home? If you want a guarantee that a dog will be show worthy, my recommendation is to try and buy an adult that is a more 'finished product' growth-wise. This won't be easy, or likely cheap, but it depends on what your priorities are. Dealing with disappointment - no litter, no gender you were after, no testicles etc, no pup for you Patience is an absolute must. I have waited several years before a breeder had a suitable pup for me. Work out what your priorities are. Sometimes it can be very worth the wait. I have been impatient in the past too, and while I adored the dog beyond life, in other ways (show/breeding) it was not a good decision and did put back my plans significantly.

http://healthypets.m...-as-adults.aspx As is highlighted in the linked article above, studies show that pups separated too early from mother/siblings are much more likely to exhibit avoidant and fearful behaviors. Specifically they are: 15 times more likely to be fearful on walks 7 times more likely to have attention-seeking behaviors and noise reactivity 6 times more likely to bark excessively Another study here: http://europepmc.org...act/MED/7802733 This one discusses the negative effect on physical condition of pups separated at 6 weeks. There is another study which was done in Qld (from memory) which I can't lay my fingers on right now that discusses increase in fear, agression and less bite inhibition in pups separated before 8 weeks of age in comparison to those separated later

Dogsnobs for sure! It is one of the best. Another firm favourite of mine is Juha Kares of Chic Choix in Finland: http://chicchoix.com/blog/ Also Ruffly Speaking: http://rufflyspeaking.net/

I have taken in a rescue of my breed (breeder couldn't be identified). She was basically unrehomable due to behaviour and health issues but lived out her life with me (you can find 'Liza Jane in the in memory part of my web page). I have assisted with the rescue of some others including a crossbreed. Harvey actually went to live out his life with a maremma rescue person, though I loved hearing about him throughout his life. In this area there has actually been no other need for rescue for my breed that I was ever made aware of. (Last 15 to 20 years) though on occasion I have taken in other breeds (including a 10 year old GSD who passed away here today at 14 1/2 so exuse me for being raw about that ). Of course I don't count the dog I bred that has lived with us for the last 4 months while the owners had to live away from their home in non dog friendly accommodation through no fault of their own. I am driving him from near Canberra to Melbourne on the weekend to go back home. Or another of my breeding that comes for regular holidays when needed by his owner. So frankly the snide comments about breeders not 'helping' are not appreciated. Just because we don't take in very dog out there does not mean we are not doing our bit.

In breeds which are smaller numerically, like mine, I think you will find that most breeders are willing to help any dogs of their breed one way or another if they can. And as soon as they are alerted to one in need, calls go out on the 'breeder grapevine' and people act. However, for very numeric breeds, where a lot of the breed end up in rescue courtesy of backyarders etc, the smaller number of responsible breeders really can't be expected to take on the full burden of assisting or rescuing all those dogs (that they didn't breed) - neither in time, emotion or financially. They may help out, but there will be a point where they have to say no. They will have to put some boundaries around what they help and what they don't or get swamped in the process. This is not about not caring. This is about doing what they can personally manage in the face of an issue that is way bigger than they alone (or even as a group of 'responsible' breeders) can cope with.

This is Tom Lonsdale's (of www.rawmeatybones.com fame) clinic at Bligh Park (near Windsor): http://www.localvet....ethealthcentre/

Like others, while I clicked on the option for a breeder taking back a dog they bred, I too feel that this really is an over simplification of the response I wanted to give. I do feel that wherever and however possible, the breeder should be actively assisting to ensure a dog they bred is well placed in a stable environment/home. In some circumstances this will not involve taking the dog back into their home physically. IMO however, it does involved a degree of 'duty of care' to oversee the situation for the welfare of the dog and this could involve providing guidance, advice, assisting in an appropriate placement, monetary assistance etc. It may either be hands off or hands on involvement depending on the individual situation (geographical distance, other circumstnaces such as a litter, human illness, changes in circumstance, whether the dog is currently in a stable environment and 'safe', whether the dog needs emergency care/housing, the condition of the dog and so on. Just as important however, is that the breeder is INFORMED of the situation. A breeder can not do anything if they don't know and as much as they try to keep in contact, there is only so much they can do if the owner does not reciprocate (without coming across as a stalker...). And sometimes an owner handing in a dog my distort or fabricate the truth regarding whether or not they have spoken to the breeder, so I would hope that rescues would also be following up with the breeder themselves in person to confirm the situation. There has been more than one situation too where a breeder has tried desperately to get a dog they bred back, only to have a rescue refuse. Breeders can not take on all the responsibility for these types of situations which are first and formost caused by the owner, not the breeder.

I have a Hamish LOL! OH named him.... at the time it was 'why on earth would you call a French dog a Scottish name?', but he is 100% a Hamish!!

Breed is a given for me - Pyrenean Mountain Dog. I don't tend to pick pet names before I 'meet' the pup. I find pups tend to name themselves. The times I have had an idea of what name I would call the pup, I changed my mind when I met them. Sometimes the name has come as a sort of instantaneous 'recognition' that that is who the pup is. I do have a list of potential (registered) names. A whole A4 page in three columns... mostly divided alphabetically.... I have used this list for naming pups and find it very handy When I think of things, or hear a name I like, I add it to the list for future reference All my last litter were given names from the list and I expect that will continue. With the pup I kept from my last litter, I did have an idea what registered name I would use for that pup as it was a play on a name that features heavily in her pedigree. Her pet name though ended up completely different to anything I was thinking of, though there was a strange thought progression to get there (registered name Albine=Beanie Baby=Nina=Nena)

The other option is a cargo barrier. They are a bit more permanent than a crate though (though they can be removed).If you get one though, get a wire mesh one not a perspex one. The perspex ones cut off too much airflow and are a dog slobber magnet.

Spotted Devil, I doubt pedigrees were 'falsified' but Mary Roslin Williams is worth reading or listening to if you haven't done so as she was a wealth of information on the development of the breed and saw the effects of changes in the UK in particular first hand. Her insight into what actually happened and how the breed was influenced by outside crosses is invaluable for anyone trying to understand the Labrador in all its forms. She was a very highly respected person in her breed (and in general in the dog world).

danielleheather have you actually met any Cane Corso or Tibetan Mastiff? Lovely dogs. See them at the shows all the time. Fabulous with the right owners (just as my breed is). If you have a look on the DOL breed pages you will find links to breeders of these wonderful dogs.....

when it comes to discussions of type, I prefer Richard Beauchamp's reasoning which he discusses in his book 'Solving the Mysteries of Breed Type'. In this he discusses that there is only one 'type' which are the basic hallmarks that make a dog instantly recogniseable as a breed. He discussed common denominators, breed character, silhouette, head, movement and coat. He discusses however that within type there are different 'styles' of dog. And style can vary from region to region, kennel to kennel etc. Type or style or strain it is largely semantics, but his way of putting it does make a lot of sense. His book is a great 'workbook' for those wanting to explore breed type in their own (or any) breed. However, Mary Roslin Williams of Mansergh Labrador fame (and folks interested in the Labrador should really read that book. And if you haven't already, please go listen to her speech in the link posted earlier) wrote about varying types: "The sturdy well coated Manserghs are at their best in rough hilly country, able to clamber and run up and down cliffs and overhanging woods and into and out of punishing covert, bushes, brambles, healther, rocks, bogs and water of every sort. their feet, their build and their coats stood up to it. But when on cold flinty open country, they were at a loss to gallop great distances out over stubbles where the taller, longer legged, more lightly got-up dogs were at a great advantage, being able to see further owing to their height giving them a longer horizon and able to race out over open ground for long distances in a straight line, i.e. a galloping type of dog. For this reason I never when judging penalise a dog for being a different type to mine so long as it is still a Labrador. A longer legged dog suits one country and a shorter another. The same with weight, a strong heavy-boned dog standing up better in my Westmoreland type of country than the lighter boned.....I do feel that even if you may not personally like a certain stamp, that you must remember that there are different ideas for different purposes and that you must be able to recognise the good ones of other makes" Yep, there is a reason this lady is so revered by so many......

I will be there with some of my dogs at the Pyrenean Mountain Dog Breed Stand :)

Please if folks haven't already, listen to the Mary R Williams Tapes. An interesting point that she mentions in them and also goes into more depth in her book 'reaching for the stars: formerly advanced labrador breeding' is the effect of field trials on the working labrador. The way trials are run required a different dog to a working labrador. And that changed the breed. They needed a faster, leaner, running dog for trialling. So they introduced breeds such as the greyhound etc to create a leaner, leggier, faster dog. This is as much not a typical Labrador as some of the heavier type. Both extremes are not how a Labrador should be. A Labrador must work in all weathers and be prepared to sit still in icy water for hours if necessary, waiting to be sent out into the water to get a bird. Here is another article which has some pictures of some of her very nice dual purpose Labradors: http://www.notonlybl...-the-manserghs/

I have a VW Maxi Caddy. If you put in a false floor you can store gear below and dogs in crates above. Even without the false floor there is ample room, but with it you will have a lot more. It is an economical vehicle (I have an automatic turbo diesel). Very manoeuvrable and just as good for commuting. You have the option of more seats if you ned more than two.

My first pyr (from Victoria) in 1994 was a pet who was sold unregistered as she had only single rear dewclaws (major fault). So at that time they were not using the limited register (or it's use was not common or mandatory). As mentioned, this was more common then. I was given a hand written 10 generation pedigree.

I can understand the reasoning for doing it. Phenotype is not the same thing as genotype. It may look like a purebred, but without papers there is no 100% guarantee it is even if it looks like it. A person may be misled into thinking that is what they are getting, and find the dog doesnt act appropriately (for LGD breeds this can be particularly important as you dont want the prey drive of a herding dog on a dog that is supposed to be a LGD!). I would personally rather they do this than misidentify something as a particular breed when it isn't. At the same time I would hope that if they do think it could be purebred (even if they don't label it as such), they are talking to breed rescue if there is one. I must say though this is a great story of riches to rags to riches again. I am glad that Mr Darcy was identified and his breeder found :)

The Bobtail gene exists in Corgi's - though not all corgi's carry it. It was a corgi carrying this specific gene that was used in the Boxer backcross project, which introduced the gene to the Boxer breed. My understanding (though hopefully a Rottie person will speak up if I am wrong) is that a 'bobtail' gene also exists in Rotties, though was not really overly prevalent or specifically bred for until such time as the taildocking ban, when some have actively sought out Rotties which carry the gene and have selected for this feature.

What is available? Not all foods are 'alike' even within those categories, so it may help to know what type of things they can get if that is limited.