espinay2

Pro plan performance , eagle pack large and giant breed puppy or holistic select large and giant breed puppy are the three that based on my research and experience I suggest for large/giant breed puppies. I am not a fan of Blackhawk and have recently seen a pup with splayed feet and soft pasterns on this.

The exact mode of inheritance for SAS still has not been proven. In simple terms though, it is believed that any affected dog can produce SAS in its offspring and there does not need to be a matching gene in the other parent. An affected dog should not be used for breeding. I too would ask to see paperwork, but as a clinically unaffected dog may produce SAS in its offspring if it carries the gene, the sire and dam may not have shown anything but still have passed it along. The possibility of this can be lessened with multi generation testing, but at present it is not an exact science and surprises can unfortunately happen. SAS is characterized by an obstruction (stenosis) or "lesion" near the aortic valve which causes turbulence or "noise" in the blood as it passes through the valve, manifest in most (but not all) affected dogs as a heart murmur. Diagnosis of SAS in its mildest form is extremely difficult. A dog affected with the mildest form of SAS will lead a full life of normal duration and quality, and will most likely be completely asymptomatic. Even those with moderate SAS can lead normal lives. However, dogs that are severely affected are at risk of sudden death. Heart failure is very rare except in the most severe cases. Medication can sometimes be helpful in managing the more severe forms of the disease. If you haven't had this checked by a cardiologist, I would do so as they can advise more fully on your options. Closest will likely be Dr Neik Beijerink at the University Of Sydney (the University teaching hospital - you can get a specialist referral to there). there are only a few cardiology specialists in Australia unfortunately. There is another in Brisbane I think if that is easier for you to get to, but I don't have the name off the top of my head. SAS is an unusual congenital disease in that the definitive "lesion" is not present at birth and does not develop until around 3-4 weeks of age, and the resulting heart murmur may not be detected until approximately 6-8 weeks of age. In some of the mildest cases, the murmur may remain undetectable for several years. Many murmurs are detected at an early age. Some turn out to be "innocent" and disappear as the puppy matures. Those that linger on at 16 and 20 weeks can pose problems. Any persistent murmur, especially one near or over the aortic valve, should be evaluated by an experienced cardiologist, and followed up with a Doppler echocardiogram. A murmur detected in an adult dog should be followed by an echocardiogram with Doppler.

Did the course too out of curiosity. It did have more information in it than I thought it would, but the questions were a bit 'light on'. My biggest gripe on the course is the section on 'simple dominants and recessives'. Black and blue colour gene? Couldn't they at least have picked a real example? This is bound to confuse people who dont understand that black and blue are NOT different alleles of the same gene as they were using it but are in fact two separate gene series!!!

Try these (though the problem may be with delivery. The first link may be the better option and I would perhaps give them a call): http://www.countryvet.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=725 http://www.thevetshed.com.au/buy/parvac-single-dose/PARV

Don't give it before whelping as can induce labour. Give it only when milk production is insufficient. Some bitches may not need it. Myra Savant Harris has written several excellent books which have some great tips and advice in it. Well worth getting copies: http://www.myrasavantharris.com/

I can see it being of use in areas where the conduct of surgery is problematic. For example third world programs. It reduces the need to set up a surgery and reduces issues with maintaining a sterile environment and risk of post surgical infection. For areas where surgery is more common it probably won't be taken up very quickly.

In less numeric breeds often a state club will act as a pseudo national club in that members from other states are also members and often attend their shows. I know the Pyrenean Mountain Dog Club of Victoria is like that. If you get the chance to go down to their show, it may be worthwhile. I do know some mastiff people from NSW make the trip, with or without dogs.

Generally the schedules for the shows will be up on the canine councils websites in the show and trial calendar. For example DogsACT and DogsNSW Most shows are one day shows, though there may be a group of two or three or more shows run over a weekend in the same place. There are only a few shows that run over multiple days - e.g. the Royals and for these you need to note which day a breed will be on. The Royals will generally have a website too as they are run by Agricultural Societies. For example Canberra Royal and Sydney Royal The shedule for Canberra Royal shows that Mastiffs will be judged on Sunday (i.e. 'Balance of Utility' in the Schedule) For Sydney Royal the Mastiffs are judged on Sunday 13 April 2014. Note that Mastiffs re not overly common at shows at the moment (a lot more Bullmastiffs) so it could be better to contact breeders to see what shows they may be going to so you can meet them. There are a lot of shows where no Mastiffs are present (more likely to see them in Sydney). Sydney Royal is likely your best bet to see some, but again better to check with breeders, or ask on here just before or when the show starts and before you make the trip so someone can tell you how many are entered.

Fenugreek capsules are available in the health food store or chemist with a good 'vitamin' range (used for lactating humans too). I found them easier to use, but if your bitch is eating well, and you can mix it in the food, then just the powder is fine - you can open and sprinkle the capsule on food. Myra savant harris (advanced canine reproduction and puppy care, page 9) recommends giving enough so that the bitches breath and milk smell like maple syrup. 3 times a day. Starting with one 610mg capsule for a toy breed. if the breath smells like maple syrup a couple of hours after giving, the dose is right. If not, increase for next dose. Once milk production is established there is no need to keep giving. I have used it on a maiden bitch to help get things going. Didn't need to use it for more than a couple of days.

I have used the trays with fake grass . Had some success with them. I found the girls in the litter used them. Had more trouble with the boys! I had two and rotated them so I could wash them. The fake grass I felt I would probably replace for each litter as they can still smell a bit by the end. They did chew the fake grass a little. I was taking them outside at regular intervals too (and in good weather when older were in an outdoor pen) and by the end would poo outside only but were still using the fake grass to pee on as well. If you want to research litter potty training google the 'misty method'.

My Pyrs just seem normal. Even a small pyr seems 'small' to me! My Dalmatian well she seemed like a tiny tot lol! I am so used to the size I just don't notice them being big. It somehow always surprises me when people say they are even though I hear that often.

I don't see any real issue with it. Breeders often sell dogs on 'breeders terms' though it is important for those terms to be agreed up front. Those terms are between the owner and the breeder and for them to decide. In some cases no stud fee is paid for the breeder (but may be charged for others to use the dog) and sometimes - if that is what is agreed - then a stud fee may paid to the owner. Often a breeder will hold registration in their name while the person keeps the dog as a pet. Colour coding the two pups is pretty normal - particularly if they are the same sex and colour. It just makes it easier to keep accuarate individual records on the pups. I don't know about health testing for the breed so won't comment on that point.

Agree with everything Dyzney has said, so I won't repeat it. It is very good advice.

Have a look at the other thread on the subject currently running. Lots of info there.

It really comes down to personality. I have an entire male Pyrenean (now 7) who 4 years ago we introduced an older desexed GSD to (now aged 14). It did take us quite a while and a few fights to integrate them. They now happily live together but mainly because the Pyr has learnt to ignore and tolerate the stupid old pushy GSD (who pushes his luck way more than he should). With a pup you may find it easier to integrate. The test though will likely be when the pup matures, desexed or not and depend on the personalities of both.

The thing to understand is that even if a pup has had its first vaccination, due to the possible effects of maternally derived antibodies, full cover may not be given until the pup has had the FULL series of puppy vaccinations (first vaccination from 6-8 weeks of age, second at 10-12 weeks and also it is generally recommended that a pup get its last vaccination in the series after 16 weeks of age). So if your pup had only had one vaccination it was likely far from covered. Given you have also had parvo there not long ago, and parvo can live in the ground for a long long time (and can be resistant to all but the strongest veterinary grade cleaners), then the fact that your pup got parvo is unfortunately a bit of a no-brainer. I would strongly suggest researching the effects of Parvo and the role of vaccinations. You may also want to refrain from bringing any more puppies into your house (at a minimum until after a FULL series of vaccinations - and even then it can be risky). Also remember not to go visiting other pups for a while as you can carry it on your shoes and clothing etc. This is very worth reading: http://www.wsava.org/sites/default/files/WSAVA_OwnerGuidelines_September2010.pdf

If you join the mailing list you can download a free e-book which is actually quite good. A few more ideas there to go through.

The Petbarn outlets I have been in don't sell any animals except for fish. I have seen some cats/kittens in the one near me on occasion up for adoption through a rescue. They are not the cheapest for a lot of things (their crates are astronomical) but have a good range of foods and supplies available as a rule.

Came across this site on another forum. It has some interesting and useful ideas and articles for breeders on raising healthy, stable puppies. Includes a couple of specific ideas for puppy enrichment that I have not come across elsewhere before. http://www.avidog.com/

What symptoms leads you to believe it is a yeast buildup? Suggest using a decent probiotic such as Protexin.

Are you sure you are not confusing this with the calcium: phosphorous balance for food?? A dogs stomach is acidic. You are not going to change that with calcium. What you may do though if a dog is growing in particular is end up giving too much calcium which may cause growth issues.

Polish Tatra are one of the white European LGD breeds (there are quite a few BTW, but we only have a few of them here). Smaller and perhaps a bit more 'responsive' than some. As mentioned, they are a very new intro to thus country.

Problem is when the names they use for the breed is different. In North America (and only there) for instance, they call Pyrenean Mountain Dogs 'Great Pyrenees'.

In addition to the above, Look for a breeder willing to tell you the downside and challenges of owning the breed as well as the good side.

I choose which pup for which home because I am 100% taking into account the prospective owners needs as well as the individual puppies needs. It is impossible for a person going to see a litter to get a true idea of what the pups are like. The most outgoing pup may have just had a big play and is fast asleep and uninterested while they are there! Through long term observation though the breeder can get a much better idea of personalities. There is no randomness in choosing who goes where but hours and hours of observation, discussion and deliberation. To answer an earlier question about formal testing, in my breed the tests don't always work well as some of the things tested for are not traits which will naturally be strong in the breed (particularly those associated with drive and retrieving etc). That said I have used some formal testing on a puppy. Those was a pup I chose as being best suited to an owner wanting to train him as a therapy dog. I also did some formal testing on him at the request of the owner and therapy dog program coordinator who were in another state (they did visit several times, but on one of the visits he was the 'sleepy puppy' and not interested in interacting much). The results backed up my assessment. The pup btw has worked out splendidly in his new home.