espinay2

Funny thing. First breed that popped into my mind, before I read the other replies, was an Aussie Shepherd.

And no plastic garbage bags?? Or paper sick bags?

Corn flour also works. Get as much of the gunk out of the coat, dampen a bit if need be (you can use some water/wonder wash it get a bit more out if really bad) then apply a mix of dry corn flour and bicarb to the damp coat. Rub through coat and allow a few minutes to dry and soak it up. Then brush out.

An interesting loophole and yes, one that seems to need to be closed. But it does present some interesting regulatory questions in how it should be closed. It is a question I guess in how far the owner of a stud dog should be accountable for the actions of others. They can check that the bitch is on main register. They can check that the owner of the bitch as per its registration papers is a registered breeder. They should probably be required to check that the owner of the bitch actually wants the bitch to be mated (signature required on a form?) Beyond that, what should they be responsible for? Should they be responsible if the owners membership lapses? Or the owner of the bitch does not register the litter once born? The owner of the bitch or the bitch is suspended or de-registered? If their stud dog was used in good faith and through the actions (or non action) of the bitch owner the stated or understood intentions/actions are not followed through, whould the stud owner be held in breach of regulations or the COE? Careful wording would be needed.

You will find that being well set up to handle multiple dogs can definitely greatly reduce stress for both you and for the dogs. I don't always need all my different 'areas', but they are there when I do, and it does make life so much less stressful, which is healthier for both the dogs and for us humans (stress can cause many health problems for dogs just as it can for humans). Well worth the investment for anyone planning on multiples.

Agree that breed makes a difference. I have a breed where same sex aggression is relatively common. I currently have three bitches (and four males!) together, but it hasnt always been harmonious. I have had bitches in the past who hated each other and had to be kept separate so they didnt kill each other (I only had bitches at the time - no males). Having the means and ability to separate dogs is important when it comes to managing a multi dog household. Crates, baby gates and separate runs can help make life easier. When I am not around to supervise, the dogs are separated and are in separate runs when I am out (often paired M/F - with the exception of in season bitches of course ;) ). Right at the moment in the house I have dogs separated by baby gates and peacefully sleeping in different areas. While they get on together, I 'manage' them closely ('active management' as SSM describes). They are all separated for feeding (separate crates and pens) to prevent issues ever arising (though quickly eaten treats can be dispensed as a pack). With Bassets I would expect them to hopefully get along - being an animal designed to live and function as a pack. It would be a trait I was selecting for. But I would still be sure I had the means to separate when necessary and would be proactive in managing the 'pack dynamics'.

Have not had one yet - touch wood. But I did have a bitch desexed at 6 years of age whose uterus was 'spongy' and showing signs of Cystic endometrial hyperplasia, which significantly increases the chance of Pyo. There is a high chance if she had remained intact she would have developed it.

Looks pretty good to me :) I agree with those who say remove a few slats and mesh it on the inside. Making it nice and shady will be good with a BM, though with a 'sun bed' etc it sounds good. Cocci etc is something to consider, but if you have returfed it and it has been empty for a while that will help. Particularly if it has been able to dry out thoroughly. I have dogs in with and around poultry from the time they are pups. Many livestock guardians are around farm animals from an early age. I personally wouldnt be overly concerned if it had previously housed a pig if you had thoroughly refurbished and cleaned/disinfected it (and it sounds like you have). Though would be aware and watch for any signs in the young pup (and be sure to mention to the vet so that it can be appropriately treated - Albon/Baycox etc - as many antibiotics can be ineffective).

I don't know that there are many members from the UK here, this being primarily an Australian forum?

Re quoting for emphasis as it is a very important point.

I would hazard a guess and say the reason a number of top show dogs don't have woeking titles is its simply too hard to do both. It takes a lot of time and dedication to title a dog that far. For what it's worth there are a lot of samoyeds who excel at both and there isn't an obvious divide between working and show dogs. It is the same in Pyreneans. There are top show dogs that are also working dogs (note that for Pyrs the definition of 'performance' is working as a livestock guardian, not obedience and agility which require traits counter to correct working temperament for this breed). I am right at this moment attending the Great Pyrenees Club of America National Specialty, and attended a judges training seminar less than two hours ago. One thing greatly emphasised was that the working dog and the show dog were one and the same (and photos of working dogs in the 'field' were also used to illustrate good type and structure ect along with 'show dogs') in some breeds breeders may have created a division. In others this is much less the case.

There are breeders who breed for both working ability and also show. There are some breeds where there is a 'polarisation' of the two but even in those breeds you will find people that do both. There are also some where there is much less distinction between the two. Also note that breeding for agility/obedience is in many cases different to breeding for a breeds natural 'working ability' and may involve selecting from different traits to what the breed was originally intended. So be clear about what it is exactly that you want the dog to do. In my breed for instance, breeding for the obedience ring etc would involve selecting traits which are totally different from the breeds intended purpose and would actually be unwanted in that respect.

Liberty. Much more stable than many of the cheaper ones. I have a couple but much prefer the Liberty as it is less likely to rock if the dog moves to the side or when getting on or off.

I say no on principle to solicitations. I choose when and who I donate to and it is often not the charities being spruiked....particularly not the RSPCA .... I will politely decline but is does make me very uncomfortable. Hard sell and you may not see me back. The charity hard sell does annoy and trouble me. I know some elderly pensioners who donate way more than they can actually afford. That is just taking advantage.

I am a big fan of crates and think they are avery handy tool. I use them for young dogs to sleep in at night (once older and more 'trustworthy' they sleep out of the crate), as an aid to house training, at shows, as 'mobile bedrooms' when travelling, in the van for additional safety and comfort while travelling, to separate dogs when feeding, when I have bitches in season to separate dogs, to keep a dog calm while ill or injured. I have crates that stay up all the time with the doors open and the dogs can often be found in there sleeping. I feel it is important for a dog to feel comfortable with being confined as it will reduce stress if they ever need to be confined at the vets or at home due to illness or injury. I have found the easiest way to get older dogs who have never been crated used to one is to feed them in it every day. While I like crates, I am personally not comfortable with leaving dogs in them unattended (i.e. someone on the property to check on them regularly). I won't use them when I go out (if we are out, the dogs are in dog runs outside). While dog may sleep through the night in them, during the day I like to ensure they are taken out for regular breaks if they have to stay in them for any length of time. Just my personal preference.

I desperately wanted a VW caddy but when I was looking they only came in manuals. Wah! Mine is an Auto - love it to bits :) They are very popular with dog people. I swear half the vans at the dog show I was at yesterday were Caddys :laugh: (of course the fact that VW was offering 0% interest finance on them late last year didn't hurt things! :D )

We have a Volvo Cross Country. Great station wagon and plenty of room. Good to drive (except for the seatbelt. OK for OH but for somereason it doesnt adjust down far enough for shortarse me and cuts into my neck!). My 'dog car' though is a VW Caddy Maxi. I love the way it drives for the space it provides. Plenty of power and very comfortable. Of course I am carrying big dogs so I got a car that would do that specifically....if we take the Volvo we are usually only taking one dog (smaller dogs you would fit plenty!) It may be worth looking at a Skoda wagon too as they seem to be pretty roomy.

Carry washing soda crystals. Shove a heap down the dogs throat to make them vomit. Will only help if you see them eat it and catch it early enough. Best idea will be to not be letting the dog run free in baited areas. By law paddocks should have signs. And baits buried and only out for set periods. Doesn't always work that way though. Most properties around me bait. My dogs simply don't go on them. And farm dogs don't roam free where they can get near them.

I didn't say hands I said arms. To protect your face etc and so if the dog bites/lunges up it will be less likely (hopefully) to get more vulnerable parts. Better they bite your arm than your face. The scenario which the OP played out later in the thread though was different from the one I had been envisaging though and as shown here how you react can be different in different situations. I would perhaps react differently to an unsupervised strange dog stalking me when on my own to other scenarios.

Interesting that my comment which provided links to all the relevant documents has been removed from below the article ....

I wouldn't be escalating the situation. Fastest way to make it worse. Either stadium still putting arms up to your face and avert your eyes, or if you can back out of the area (through a gate etc) do that. If you have something in your hand (stick, umbrella ) and dog comes at you to bite, you could try putting that 'in the way' so they bite on that instead of on you.

Oh I couldn't resist leaving a comment on that article. So sick of the 'vaccinate annually' nonsense. Article was very obviously written by green cross as a press release and included by a writer too lazy to check facts.

Canine reproduction by Phillis Holst is one of my bibles and explains things day by day. Worth getting a copy if you can.

All mine are fed separately. Separate crates and pens. No hassling each other over food and I can see exactly how much each has eaten. They stay separated till all are finished so no harassing or intimidating each other. I teach them good manners with food, but separation makes feeding time much less stressful. And is one more good association with the crate. Love my crates.

Most of mine don't necessarily 'bond' with them. Just cohabitate well. I have only had the one instance of what I would call true 'bonding' and that was the kitten with my now departed Milou. Said cat is now a teenager and gets on with the dogs, but none have replaced 'her' dog. You won't be able to let a pyr etc 'run freely' unless it is in a well fenced area. We have a saying 'Ana off lead pyr is a disapyr'. While young (up until about 2 yrs) they will need good supervision around stock - especially poultry - as while they have a low prey drive, youngsters like to play and don't understand that others don't want to. Consider issues like barking, digging, shedding, and again the fact that free running outside of a fenced area is a no-no. No long walks on lead while young either for a growing giant breed. Good socialisation is a must. For the right owners willing to work with their natural instincts and to manage them, this type of life you describe looks workable on the surface at least for a pyr. See info on my website. In particular read the article on barking. Happy to answer more questions privately.