espinay2

I must say, I am pleased they seem to have at least listened in the first round (I know I put comments in myself and I see a few of them incorporated!). It is VERY important that people have their say here, so make sure you get your responses in!

I Have a new van coming that I want to get fitted out with a false floor and barriers/gates. Anyone know of anyone in NSW/ACT that does a good job of building them? (i.e. similar to 'Puppy Bars' In Victoria).

Re hunting dog breeders. My eyes were opened a bit recently when I found out that there are some that are importing frozen semen from overseas (such as the US) and doing planned AI breedings to improve their lines - and using repro vets to assist them. Not just a case of throwing any dog together and letting them do their thing in some cases at least.

On one of the breeding forums I am on ('Canine fertility, reproduction and neonatal issues' on FB which is part owned by Myra Savant Harris and includes quite a number of vets as members) calcium is considered almost a must for during whelping and lactation (but never before whelping). One of the types of calcium suggested there is Citracal tablets (from the chemist) as the form is easily absorbed without food. I used these for my recent litter. They suggest supplementing for the whole of lactation and cite examples of eclampsia at 6 weeks etc.

Demographics perhaps. Certainly I do notice some new 'city bred' vets don't seem to have the breadth of practical animal experience. I clearly recall the disbelief expressed in 'talk' when a new young vet in our rural area 'had never owned a pet'. Must admit that did concern me and I will admit to avoiding them when making appointments for that reason (though to be fair he seems to be becoming quite a reasonable avian vet from what I understand which isn't an easy field). also the amount of Information available now on the Internet. I have noticed libraries are narrowing their focus a lot when it comes to book subject matter. Local libraries simply Don't seem to carry the range of subjects they used to.

That has been in my head all day. The horror of being in the centre of a dog attack resulting in the death of a tiny child. In space of a few minutes, so many lives changed and damaged forever. This is how one family moved on from it: http://www.liamjperkfoundation.org/

Good fencing tips here: http://www.inetdesign.com/wolfdunn/containment/ I agree with the secure dog run suggestion. With roof and paved/on cement to prevent digging is probably the most secure option and may be they cheapest in the long run if he is a confirmed escape artist.

Occasionally (though it doesn't seem to be often any more) you can buy the whole thing 'outright' - you pay one fee (sometimes per 'breeding unit') and you use it how you like. But that seems rarer these days and most stud dog owner want more control of what happens. The way I have done it is you ship the whole collection, pay one stud fee up front and then have terms in the contract regarding what happens with any 'leftover' once you have your litter. For example - define what a 'litter' constitutes so you know whether that singleton pup means you can have another go with the same bitch without paying another stud fee or whether you agree one viable pup constitutes a litter. Paying one stud fee you take the risk that if you use all of it and get no pups that is that? Or will they do another collection for you at no cost? (you still pay shipping - this is not common and I wouldnt expect it). Whether you can have multiple attempts with the same bitch without paying another stud fee if you are not successful the first time (reasonable). Whether if you are successful and you have 'leftover' you can use it on the same or another bitch and what the agreed stud fee is in those cases. Do other bitches need to be approved/agreed by the stud dog owner before you use it? Or is it a 'once off' thing and once you have your litter it is agreed any remainder will be destroyed? When is a second stud feed payable - before you use the semen the second time or when a viable 'litter' is produced? A tip - 'breeding units' are often smaller than you actually need for one AI and in my experience motility on thaw is often less than what they tell you it is before you ship it. If they say 2 straws or 3 straws is a breeding unit, on average estimate that you will need to double that (or at least use one extra straw per breeding).

First thing you will need is patience. As people have mentioned, serving an 'apprenticeship' will be important and getting in there and owning a dog with the intent to learn more about living with the breed will be important (it really is different to live with a breed day to day rather than just being around them). I do understand wanting to have just bitches, and I did start out that way too. However, after owning two bitches and choosing not to breed either for a range of reasons (even though one was my first champion - as dyzney mentioned, sometimes making the decision NOT to breed is the hardest and the best decision for a breeder or potential breeder to make - and this is where patience and ability to look past your own ego really is needed) in truth I really didnt start to make progress until I got a male to show - and earned the trust of his breeder who several years later trusted me with a good bitch who became my foundation bitch (with a frozen AI mating with a dog located in Finland). In a way I wish I had taken that path a bit sooner (though every dog has taught me something along the way - even if never bred they have not been 'wasted'). You may be lucky and get someone to trust you with a reasonably ok bitch (more likely on co-ownership), but probably only if they have known you for a while and you are willing to wait - sometimes it takes several years - for the right one to be available. good males tend to become available a bit more often. A practicality to consider. You get two pups. then you breed from both of them - say around 3 or so years of age - and keep one pup from each. that is four dogs you now have under 4 years of age. You breed your bitches again the following year or so. Now you are up to 6 dogs if you keep one again. and then you want to breed one of the ones you kept from your first litter. you have two bitches around 6 years of age, two at around 3 years of age, one or two at two or one years of age then you have puppies and want to keep one of them too... So my suggestion is not to go too fast too soon. Space out the time between your dogs if you can. Start with one and learn from it for a few years (socialisation starting with puppy classes and going on from there and getting out there with your dog will help if you are concenred about your dog not learning to 'live' with other dogs). Get yourself known. Have a plan and keep yourself on peoples books for the 'right one' as you learn. If people know you are keen and you are out there being seen and doing things while proving yourself to be willing to learn, reliable, sensible and a good allround 'dog person' etc often good ones get 'offered'.

I try to explain it as pet owners deserve to have a well bred and healthy dog which care has gone into producing. There is no 'just' in pet. Just like there is no 'just' in family car. You still want something that is well engineered even though you will never take it on the racetrack.

I wouldn't say 'original' necessarily. More bred to compete at high speed in races (which is somewhat different from their original purpose and does mean selection for a different type of dog designed for fast running rather than one designed for steady progress over rough and unknown and often very dangerous terrain) . Attached is a picture of 'Tess' who was owned by my great grandfather. She was possibly (unconfirmed) the first husky in Australia. Tess was one of a litter of 4 pups born in the Antarctic on 03 July 1902 to Sir Earnest Shackelton's bitch 'Vianca' (who was herself born in the Arctic). Her sire was a dog called 'Wolf'. Her side and dam were sled dogs used on Sir Robert Scott's first (1901) expedition to the Antarctic. They were typical working sled dogs which were employed by polar expeditions in both the north and south in that era.

Malibu, Rip, Knarly, Grommet, Zog, Fin, Bombora (Bommie), Boogie,

He He!! I would be Leanne Logwoods :)

Have used all these products. All are good (ice on ice really for longer coats though). Great to know about peperone. Both are great sites :)

The vaccination guidelines from the WSAVA (on which the AVA guidelines are based): http://www.wsava.org/guidelines/vaccination-guidelines In general it is recommended that the last puppy vacc be given around 16 weeks due to the effect of maternal immunity before then.

Chalk - ask the breeder what they use. You may or may not need it. Take tips from them on grooming at first. You can tweak more later once you see what works for you. For clothes, this may give you an idea of colour that works and may have a few other tips too: http://www.delsharla...s.com/page5.asp Places like Millers are often a good source of clothes for shows. Neat and tidy is the main thing. Shoes need to be ones you can move in and comfortable/reasonably non slip. Places like Payless Shoes actually have a good range. You really don't need much when starting out though. The list Showdog gave is it really. Folding chair, crate, water bowl, mat for crate, container of water (a tend to take my own if water is different source at the show), a tarp for under the crate, show collar and lead (ask the breeder what is being used on the dog perhaps), towels/hand towels for cleanups/slobber/accidents, treat pouch if you are using 'bait' and don't have a pocket, number holder and something for shade (which if you are sharing space in a gazebo in the beginning you won't need). When it comes to the crate, My preference is for wire as I tend to find the softcrates get a little too warm for the dogs. I also prefer their security. Places like Vebopet have wire collapsible crates for a reasonable price. If you think it would be easier for you (you have bad shoulders?) also look at a small fold up trolley for the crate (supacheap auto and the like) so you dont have to carry it If you are on FB, there is also a Group called 'Australian Dog Show Newbies' that you may find helpful: http://www.facebook.com/groups/OzShowNewbies/

I use tag collars. Some I make myself and some I have had made. Basically round plaited leather with a ring to attach tags to. Some of mine also have beads/bling :). Any of the show lead makers who do braided chord or leather should be able to do one for you if you can't braid or don't know someone who can. My favourite shampoos for my white coated dogs are Chris Christiansen white on white and plush puppy whitening shampoo. Edited to add a photo of one of my collars

Interesting as in Europe ( including Italy) pyreneans are generally severely penalized for over groomed and washed coats. They are as a rule shown very naturally as it shows better working coat.

I have never made them smaller either and haven't had an issue. If you are after a crate you can divide though I think vebopet has wire collapsible crates with dividers

To be a registered breeder you need to belong to your state canine council ( In Qld: http://www.cccq.org.au/ ). you also then need to sit the open book exam and apply for a breeders prefix. As part of this you need to agree to the code of ethics and rules and regulations of the organisation (which you can find on the website). Your dogs also need to be registered (which means there is a clear certified record of their pedigrees which proves they are purebred and also have the family tree you say they have - basically an official birth certificate). You should know that it is not general practice for a dog owner to go looking for a bitch to breed their dog to. Generally someone whill have a suitable bitch and then go looking for a suitable dog to use which improves upon her weak points and does not double up on any major faults. The aim of a breeding always being to improve on your stock (ALL dogs have faults and as a breeder it is important for you to know what they are. The 'blueprint' for your breed is contained in the written breed standard). Also important is knowing the health issues in your breed, health testing breeding stock, knowing any issues in the lines and taking these into account when making your breeding decisions. Pet owners deserve breeders who breed the healthiest and most structurally sound dogs they can that are good examples of their breed. Understand that unless your Beagles are registered and unless you are a registered breeder you will automatically be considered a 'backyard breeder' who is less than responsible as these are 'basics' that will generally be required to be considered a responsible breeder (and before anyone gets their knickers in a twist we are talking Beagles here). As this website is a purebred dog community aimed at promoting responsible breeding, you will not really find any support for the breeding of unregistered beagles here. HOWEVER, if you want to take your time to learn how to be a responsible breeder and are willing to learn and go forward in that fashion (which may mean not breeding, and even perhaps desexing, your unregistered dogs and keeping them as your special pets only), then you will find many eager to help you out.

Puppies are six and a half weeks here and doing great. They are getting lots of adventure time outside and loving it (ably babysat by Grace's teenage half sister who mum has roped in to assist LOL!). Toileting progressing well and they will only poo outside now and ask to be taken out. Eating well (including eating chicken frames like little pirhanas now). Mum still giving them a bit of a feed several times per day. BB how old is the pup? My pups started by lapping at mums milk drink (I was giving mum the Leerburg formula) and then progressed to having their own bowl. they were getting just that for about a week then I started adding some beef mince mashed in the milk, gradually increasing the consistency and reducing the milk as they got used to it. They also got turkey necks and chicekn quarters (with the meat scored to make it easy for them to grab) to 'play' with, though I will admit they were stripping those bones bare by 4 and a half weeks LOL!

For those looking for the old style drybed: http://www.ozgroomingworld.com.au/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=225

The dogs generally have their coat clipped off and back to a normal pet clip straight after the competition. So some think because my breed takes two hours for an average wash and dry (even for pets - as do many breeds) we are 'abusing' them?

This explains the process: http://www.petedge.com/library/library.jsp?pageName=bs_creativegrooming The dogs are not on the table for long amounts of time. 1 to 3 hour sessions. To put in context, it takes two hours on average for me to just wash and dry a Pyrenean. My dogs are well used to the grooming and even enjoy it as it is special one on one time. I have trained them from puppies to find it enjoying and certainly not stressful or painful.

The liberty giant table is good. Thing to watch with some others is stability. If the inverted U shape on the bottom of the legs is tall or narrow the tables can tip/be unstable. That part has to be short and wide. The liberty is a sure bet. Stable and good quality.